Revolution
Introducing the Montblanc Heritage Small Second LE38
Montblanc’s Heritage collection gets a big, small limited edition of 38 pieces powered by the manual-winding Minerva MB 62.00 calibre.
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Revolution
Revolution
At the Watch Art Grand Exhibition: The World’s First Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch
At the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore, Revolution got a closer look at some of the most precious wristwatches in Patek Philippe’s vault.
Time+Tide
That time Hublot pulled apart a tourbillon cage to show us how it worked
Editor’s note: Early last year, our fearless leader Andrew McUtchen was fortunate enough to breach the inner sanctum of Hublot’s High Complication Department and have a chat with the boss, Emmanuel Missillier. What’s more, Mr Missillier proceeded to pull apart one of Hublot’s intricate tourbillon movements, all for our viewing pleasure. Hublot have made big strides … ContinuedThe post That time Hublot pulled apart a tourbillon cage to show us how it worked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy El Primero 21 Southeast Asia Editions
Produced for the key markets in an important region, the Defy El Primero 21 South East Asia Edition is based on Zenith’s well-priced, 1/100th of a second chronograph, with one edition each for Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia. All three watches share the same red and white livery – reflecting the colours found in each country’s national flag – but with a respective national landmark printed on the case back. The Defy El Primero 21 is one of two true 1/100th of a second chronographs on the market that are serially produced – the other being the Mikrograph produced by Zenith’s sister company TAG Heuer. Both share a similar movement architecture, but the Mikrograph came first and inspired the construction of the Zenith calibre. Landmarks The colour scheme of the trio is a nod to the flag of each country, all of which happen to include red and white. The power reserve, minute counter, chronograph hands and crown are accented in red. The watch is otherwise mechanically identical to the standard version. It is powered by the self-winding El Primero 9004 movement, which utilises two independent sets of mainsprings, gear trains and balance wheels. The timekeeping escapement runs at a frequency of 5Hz, while the chronograph escapement runs at 50Hz, allowing the watch to resolve to 1/100th of a second. And more so important in a high frequency movement, the escape wheels – the fastest rotating wheel in the transmission system – and pallet forks are made of silicon...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: 14 lessons from Christies’ watch auction expert
To work at one of the largest international auction houses in the world, you need to know your stuff, which makes you very good at evaluating the world’s rarest watches and also passing that knowledge onto collectors and enthusiasts. One such watch auction expert is Dr Andrew Hildreth, who is responsible for presenting and writing … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: 14 lessons from Christies’ watch auction expert appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Auction Report: Albert Piguet Double-Balance Resonance Watch Sells for CHF250,000
One of the most interesting lots in the second instalment of Masterworks of Time at Sotheby’s that just concluded was a seemingly unassuming pocket watch with an estimate of just 7,000-10,000 Swiss francs. But the pocket watch contains a movement with a single gear train driving double balance wheels linked by a differential, constructed to keep time according to the principles of resonance. This is one of the very movements that inspired Philippe Dufour to create the Duality. And its appearance at auction comes at an opportune time, with F.P. Journe going to launch an entirely new Resonance movement in 2020. The Philippe Dufour Duality Mr Piguet of Lemania The movement was made by Albert G. Piguet (1914-2000), a noted watchmaker who finished the movement in 1933, just before graduating from the École d’Horlogerie in Le Sentier, then the premiere watchmaking school in the Vallee de Joux. He joined movement maker Lemania after graduation, and eventually rose to technical director. Piguet stayed in that role from 1948 to 1980, during which he helped develop numerous calibres, including the important CH27 chronograph movement that later became the cal. 321 found in the early Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, and also the cal. 2310 used by the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Piguet’s 1933 pocket watch movement is just one of six produced between 1932 and 1934 by students at the watchmaking school, working under the tutelage of headmaster Marcel Builleumi...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
This year, the brand known for their focus on avant-garde techniques has updated one of their most iconic sporting chronographs, to produce the best-looking TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 in recent years. With an aesthetic of clean refinement, the less-is-more approach has come up trumps in a watch that prioritises robust functionality over notions of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Only Watch 2019 Post-Auction Thoughts: Smashing Records For A Great Cause Plus The $31 Million Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime’s Record Grab On Video
The buzz around Geneva over the entire week was nothing if not intense: Only Watch 2019 was about to set some records, and people wanted to witness it. Elizabeth Doerr shares the palpable excitement plus a video of the moment Patek Philippe set its $31 million record and more here.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Ochs Und Junior Day/Night
A radically simple version of one of watchmaking's most romantic complications.
Time+Tide
Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic One sold for a ridiculous amount at Only Watch 2019
If history is anything to go by, we shouldn’t have been surprised at news coming out of Only Watch 2019 that Tudor’s entry into the charitable auction, the Black Bay Ceramic One, had sold for a staggering 350,000 CHF ($515,000 AUD). In fact, for Tudor’s third pièce unique entered into Only Watch to do anything … ContinuedThe post Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic One sold for a ridiculous amount at Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Time is a Pyramidal Construct - The Arnold & Son Time Pyramid Tourbillon
Arnold & Son presents a more complicated iteration of the Time Pyramid. Here, we bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Time Pyramid Tourbillon.
SJX Watches
Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019
Only Watch 2019 is the biggest watch auction ever – and it was the most exciting sale in a notably quiet Geneva auction season – with 50 lots selling for 38.59m Swiss francs. The last Only Watch auction in 2017 raised a mere 9.29m francs in comparison. And of course 31m francs of that came from just one watch, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel, which went to a determined buyer from Asia bidding via telephone with Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Presided over by Christie’s jewellery department head Rahul Kadakia, the best watch auctioneer who is not a watch specialist, the saleroom in Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues was jam-packed, so full even Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias had to stand. And there was even a famous face in attendance, or at least in the same building – former Thai prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, who is a a known watch collector, was spotted in the lobby of the hotel. Luc Pettavino, who founded only watch after his late son was stricken by Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the very disease that Only Watch raises funds to research a cure. Photo – Alex Teuscher Photography Though the Patek Philippe accounted for most of the sale proceeds – which all go to a medical charity – the other 49 lots in the auction still sold for an average of 155,000 Swiss francs, which is well above the average for a watch auction. The Antiquorum watch auction that took place a day later, for instance, averaged only...
Time+Tide
Seiko’s Prospex LX Line Diver emerges from GPHG as a winner
Seiko’s fit for purpose range of Prospex LX Line Diver’s watches has beaten some tough competition from the likes of Longines, Ressence and De Bethune to take home the award for best Diver’s watch at GPHG 2019. This is an important win for the Japanese manufacturer for two reasons: firstly, the winning Seiko is a … ContinuedThe post Seiko’s Prospex LX Line Diver emerges from GPHG as a winner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Review: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGK005
Does combining de rigueur highlights with aesthetics anchored in the natural beauty of Japan make the Grand Seiko SBGK005 the ultimate dress watch?
Revolution
TAG Heuer’s Monaco March Through Time Culminates in a Monaco for 2009-2019
The final of five limited editions to mark 50 years of the TAG Heuer Monaco was recently unveiled in Shanghai.
SJX Watches
The Clash de Cartier Studio Comes to Singapore
Having made its debut in Paris earlier in the year, the Clash de Cartier pop-up studio is making its first stop in Southeast Asia. Soon to open at the STPI Creative Workshop & Gallery in Singapore, the studio uses displays focused on music, art and literature to showcase the Clash de Cartier jewellery collection. The exhibition is structured around the concept of the Clash de Cartier, a newly launched range of jewellery characterised by contradictions and duality – bold yet delicate, structured yet – for a slightly punk-style look. The journey begins with a questionnaire that will direct visitors to their first room – either the Record Room or Bookstore. In the Record Room, visitors will be invited to listen to a playlist, curated by French sound designer Michel Gaubert, through sound shower speakers installed in the room. The playlist will consist of clashing genres of music from classical to rock. In the same vein, the Bookstore was curated to showcase opposing genres. Visitors will be able to take a short personality test to determine their “alter ego”m which will be then be translated into a haiku by actual poets at the venue. Lastly, guests can convene at the café and enjoy a complimentary pastry and drink inspired by the mix of eastern and western cultures in Singapore. Half of the café will be furnished with local décor, while the other half will be fitted out with contemporary European furniture. Exhibition details Dates: November 15-17, 2019 Time: 11...
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the Heritage Small Second with a Minerva-Minerva Movement
During a chat with Montblanc watch division chief Davide Cerrato this weekend in Geneva – where the split-seconds chronograph he created for Only Watch sold for a 100,000 Swiss francs – he revealed the company had recently discovered a small number of finished Minerva MB M62.00 movements from the early 2000s. Already decorated and assembled, the hand-wound movements were then paired with a specially designed dial to create a discreet limited edition. The calibres were produced in 2003, during the brief period from 2000-2006 when Minerva was owned by Italian former billionaire Emilio Gnutti who was later convicted of insider trading. Mr Gnutti radically remade Minerva after he took over, elevating it from a producer of competent and honest watches into one focused on ultra high-end timepieces with exceptional movement finishing. But his endeavour was not financially viable and he sold Minerva to Richemont, which integrated the brand into Montblanc. The Minerva-Minerva movement The MB M62.00 in the new Heritage Small Second come from this period, so they have impeccable finishing. But unlike Minerva movements produced after the Montblanc takeover, these movements were wholly finished prior to the Richemont takeover so they are only marked “Minerva” and “Villeret”. Though the MB M62.00 are identical, both in style and finishing, to later movements marked “Montblanc”, aficionados will appreciate the nostalgic Minerva logo. The MB M62.00 movement is derived fr...
Time+Tide
Remembering the TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition
Editor’s note: When it comes to making timepieces with an affiliation to the full-throttle world of motorsport, few watchmakers have more success than TAG Heuer. Take this TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition for instance. Here is a wristwatch that faithfully pays homage to the original Heuer Autavia 1163T or, as it’s more commonly … ContinuedThe post Remembering the TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Steeling the show … Jason Statham’s love affair with Rolex
What is it about leading actors and their affinity for Rolex’s range of stainless steel sports watches? It almost seems like it’s a rite of passage – become a famous thespian and then immediately adorn one’s wrist with a steel 6263. Whether it’s Steve McQueen, Paul Newman (obviously), Daniel Craig … the list just goes … ContinuedThe post Steeling the show … Jason Statham’s love affair with Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02
TAG Heuer’s fabled Monaco wristwatch, a timepiece immortalised in the annals of motorsport as a result of Steve McQueen sporting one in the 1971 film Le Mans, is for the first time in its history being produced with an in-house movement. That’s right, whether you were aware of it or not, the TAG Heuer Monaco … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Citizen Sticks with Baselworld for 2020
Shortly after Seiko announced it was pulling out of Baselworld 2020, fellow Japanese watchmaker Citizen announced it was staying put, along with all of its subsidiary brands, save for Arnold & Son. According to a report in Chronos Japan, the decision was made in the summer, after some internal debate as to whether or not to remain in Baselworld, where Citizen has long boasted one of the most avant-garde booths, year after year. The Citizen booth at Baselworld 2019 Citizen – which launched a record-setting quartz watch at Baselworld 2019 – might have moved to the recently announced Watches & Wonders in Geneva, but that did not happen. So the brand, along with its subsidiaries Bulova, Frederique Constant, Alpina, and Miyota, will continue to exhibit at Baselworld. Only Arnold & Son, a relatively high-end Swiss brand also owned by Citizen, will exhibit at Watches & Wonders. According to an industry source, the remaining major Japanese watchmaker, G-Shock maker Casio, will also continue to show at Baselworld. Source: Chronos Japan
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seven Minutes In Heaven: The Monta Atlas
It’s been a long time coming. Finally, after sitting on this for a bit, I’m ready to share some thoughts about the Monta Atlas GMT. Recently, work and life have managed to brutally pull me under-but when a great watch has to be written about, I do my best to share my review when I can. Monta is the product of a new era of microbrands pushing into uncharted territory with a controversial pivot toward four-digit price points.
Time+Tide
GPHG “Innovation” Prize given to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
It’s been a very busy week of watches in Geneva, with Only Watch 2019 setting new records, and the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awarding prizes to some of the best watches of the year (which included some upsets). Amidst the clamour and drama of the GPHG, where the pitting of brands head to … ContinuedThe post GPHG “Innovation” Prize given to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph
Editor’s note: If you’re in the market for a steel sports watch with a chronograph complication, you really are spoilt for choice. Rolex’s Daytona, Omega’s Speedmaster, Tudor’s Black Bay Chronograph … the list goes on. However, if you’re looking for a timepiece that meets all of the aforementioned criteria, while still possessing a real and genuine … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe
Patek Philippe’s entry into Only Watch 2019, the one-of-a-kind stainless steel Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, has just smashed, in fact obliterated, the record for the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. But it wasn’t just the Patek that stretched into the seven-figure stratosphere at the charitable auction last night, as two other … ContinuedThe post Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Most Expensive Watch Ever - Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in Steel for CHF31m
The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A made for Only Watch 2019 has just made history by selling for 31m Swiss francs – selling to a new face at watch auctions – topping the 23m francs achieved by the Henry Graves Supercomplication and the 17m francs of Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona. Before the Grandmaster Chime sold for the record-setting sum, I wrote: A major, outsized finish of 12m or 15m francs, or even more, is possible but only likely if an unexpected, deep-pocketed bidder buys the watch, or manages to push the winner further than expected. I was way off the mark value-wise, but at least half right. The bidding opened with room bids, first a 5m franc bid from gem dealer and auction veteran Claude Sfeir, followed by 10m francs from a prominent SE Asian collector. But the action swiftly moved to phone bidders, all bidding via Christie’s representatives, including Stéphane Von Bueren of the watch department in Geneva. It was a prolonged tussle – with bidding rising in 500,000 franc increments – between Mr Von Bueren’s client and another represented by Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Once bidding hit 17m francs, there was brief applause as the watch topped the record of Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona. At 22.5m francs, a new bidder jumped in, represented by Max Fawcett of Christie’s Geneva. From there it was Mr Fawcett against Ms Jud – and another round of applause when the watch surpassed the record set by the Graves Supercompli...
Deployant
The 2019 Sinn 206 ARKTIS II
20 years on, the brand updates the Sinn ARKTIS with the ARKTIS II. It is mostly the same watch with a larger case. It bears the same library of high performance specs and with an updated D3-system on the pushers.
Quill & Pad
Discovery, Firsts, And The Louis Moinet Compteur De Tierces - Reprise
The Louis Moinet compteur de tierces is one of the most remarkable finds in horological history in an extremely long time: it was the very first chronograph ever made, though no one knew this until recently. Get the details here!
Time+Tide
The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale
How did I accidentally become a vintage watch guy? Partly, I blame the fact that I’ve got the spindly wrists of a teenage girl. That meant I naturally gravitated towards smaller dials. But I also put it down to the tawdry state of my finances. When I first started to get into watches - before the retro … ContinuedThe post The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WATCH DISASTERS #1 - Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II
Watch Disasters is a new series on Time+Tide that describes, in chilling detail, incidences when owning an expensive watch goes wrong. This is not going to be comfortable reading, so prepare for the pain. Admittedly, this is a bit of a soft start. The ‘prodigal’ in the title gives it away. If you have a … ContinuedThe post WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.