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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
Breaking News: Baselworld 2020 Cancelled, Becomes Baselworld 2021 [Updated] SJX Watches
Rolex Feb 28, 2020

Breaking News: Baselworld 2020 Cancelled, Becomes Baselworld 2021 [Updated]

On a fast-moving Friday that started with the first case of the COVID-19 coronavirus in the city of Basel being diagnosed according to Swiss newspaper Le Temps, the day culminated in the organisers of Baselworld 2020 announcing its postponement to January 2021, essentially cancelling this year’s trade fair. This comes a day after the organisers of Geneva watch fair Watches & Wonders announced it was cancelled, which wipes out the entire year’s calendar for the major watch industry events. Though the Baselworld organisers had initially planned to meet on Monday, March 2, according to an announcement by Hubert J. du Plessix, the president of the event’s exhibitors committee (and also the director of investments and logistics at Rolex), events got ahead of them. The primary catalyst Baselworld’s cancellation was the Swiss government declaring a ban on all gatherings of over 1,000 people, until at least March 15 – which instantly made the Geneva Motor Show, one of the automotive industry’s most important events, a non-starter. Now Baselworld 2021 will take place from January 28 to February 2, with press day happening on January 27. Baselworld managing director Michel Loris-Melikoff, commenting in the announcement of the event’s cancellation, stated “We have found a solution that enables the industry and all our customers to avoid losing a full year and at the same time reset their calendars for the beginning of the year, a period that is conductive to the...

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Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva Cancelled SJX Watches
Citizen have already pulled out Feb 27, 2020

Breaking News: Watches & Wonders Geneva Cancelled

Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the trade show formerly known as SIHH, has just announced its cancellation. Scheduled to take place in Geneva from April 25 to 29, the event was canned due to “the latest developments concerning the worldwide spread of the COVID-19 coronavirus”. Organising body Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FIHH) said in a statement that the decision was made “to protect the health and wellbeing of all our guests, press, partners and teams.” Its announcement comes not long after Switzerland confirmed its first patient with the coronavirus on Tuesday, alongside a sudden spike in cases in Italy. A scene from SIHH 2019 WWG is the second major Swiss event to be cancelled, following the Swatch Group’s decision to call off Time to Move in Zurich, a launch exhibition of its new watches, which was scheduled to take place from February 28 to March 2. Industry insiders now expect Baselworld 2020, slated to take place right after WWG, to follow suit. Several exhibitors at Baselworld, including Bulgari and Citizen, have already pulled out of the fair. But as of February 20, the world’s biggest watch and jewellery trade show is still going ahead.

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‘Arm’s Length Architecture’: Building Blocks To Watchmaking As Exemplified By Some Of Today’s Wristwatches Including Urwerk, Nomos, Mido And Girard-Perregaux – Reprise Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Reprise SIHH 2019 provided Feb 22, 2020

‘Arm’s Length Architecture’: Building Blocks To Watchmaking As Exemplified By Some Of Today’s Wristwatches Including Urwerk, Nomos, Mido And Girard-Perregaux – Reprise

SIHH 2019 provided an instructive example to Tim Mosso of architecture’s low-key role in watch design relative to well-worn tropes. For him it was the third year in a row that parts of Geneva’s Palexpo felt like a Southern California cars-and-coffee event. But there are a few watch brands that do architecture well, and Tim takes a closer look at some of them here.

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Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity SJX Watches
Urwerk Feb 20, 2020

Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity

Synonymous with playing Iron Man in Disney’s The Avengers franchise, Robert Downey Jr. is also a fan of Urwerk, having worn several of its watches on screen. Having loaned an Urwerk UR-105 CT to Mr Downey to wear in Avengers: Endgame, the watchmaker then offered the watch up for a good cause, selling it at Phillips auctioneers last year for US$312,500. Proceeds from the sale went to Random Act Funding, a charity established by Mr Downey and his wife, Susan. Now another watch worn by Mr Downey is going under the hammer, once again to benefit Random Act Funding. The watch in question is the UR-111C Black that was worn by Mr Downey to the premieres of Avengers: Endgame in New York and Los Angeles last year. Robert Downey Jr. sporting the UR-111C. Photos – Urwerk Offered in like-new condition, the UR-111C is one of just 25 examples made and identical to the standard model save for one important detail: “RDJ” is engraved on the case place where the serial number would usually be. The watch is being sold in an online auction, with the bidding starting at 125,000 Swiss francs. Bids can be placed from now until 9:00 pm Swiss time on February 24. Only registered members of Urwerk Pre-Owned can bid on the watch, and registration can be done on Urwerkpreowned.com. For more information, please contact Urwerk social media manager Alex Rose.  

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Up Close: Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 45 mm SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 45 mm Feb 20, 2020

Up Close: Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 45 mm

Girard-Perregaux is best known for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, one of the most distinctive and beautiful movements in watchmaking – even 160 years after it was first designed. Characterised by its symmetry and arrow-shaped bridges, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is one of the few movements has an irrefutably iconic design. Some of the three-bridges magic has democratised with the Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 45 mm, a time-only watch that’s a more affordable take on the 19th century design. Constant Girard’s movement French watchmaker Jean-Antoine Lépine revolutionised the construction of the watch movement around 1770 when he invented the Lépine calibre, which used bridges and cocks to secure the moving parts on the base plate, replacing the prevailing pillar construction where the parts were held between two full plates. Almost a century later, Girard-Perregaux founder Constant Girard took Lépine’s idea a step further by rethinking the layout of the movement, with an eye towards not just mechanical function, but also beauty. A Girard-Perregaux pocket watch with nickel-plated parallel bridges, c. 1875. Photo – Antiquorum Starting in the mid 1850s, Girard began working on a caliber with its barrel, gear train, and regulator arranged vertically in a straight line. They were secured by identical, parallel bridges shaped like an elongated rhombus, creating an incredibly elegant equilibrium in the movement layout. Eventually the large, par...

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Up Close: Keaton Myrick ‘1 of 30’ Wristwatch SJX Watches
Rolex which he joined after Feb 19, 2020

Up Close: Keaton Myrick ‘1 of 30’ Wristwatch

An American watchmaker who unveiled his first watch in 2013, Keaton Myrick has spent the subsequent years refining the 1 of 30, a wristwatch crafted with traditional, artisanal methods. Since then the 38-year old has delivered several examples of the 30-piece edition, each customised to the client’s request in terms of design; the watch pictured is numbered “30/30” and is largely stock, with the only custom option being the engine-turned seconds sub-dial. Based in Sisters, a town in the Pacific Northwest state of Oregon, Keaton studied watchmaking at the Lititz Watch Technicum (LWT), a school in Pennsylvania established by Rolex, which he joined after graduation. After several years there, he returned to his hometown to set up a workshop specialising in repair and restoration. 1 in 30, numbered “30/30” Keaton’s time at LWT was the genesis of the 1 in 30. According to Keaton, each student at the LWT had to build a school watch based on the ETA Unitas 6497 (or the related 6498), a project that evolved into the 1 in 30. With inspiration from independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour as well as complicated vintage pocket watches – the historical inspiration is particularly evident in the winding click – Keaton modified and refined the common and robust Unitas movement to create the impressive and original cal. 29.30 inside the 1 in 30. Cal. 29.30 Being easily available and reliable, the Unitas 6497 and 6498 are popular base movements for independent watch...

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HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-winding with Date, and Égérie Moon Phase Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-winding Feb 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-winding with Date, and Égérie Moon Phase

Launching a completely new watch collection (starting-from-a-blank-page new, not variations on an existing line) is a high-risk game that involves huge costs: the cost of design and development – and if it’s not a resounding success (heaven forbid), the cost to both brand equity and bottom line. No wonder it’s a rare event. Even rarer … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-winding with Date, and Égérie Moon Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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NOMOS Power Reserve review WatchAdvice
Nomos Power Reserve review Nomos Feb 5, 2020

NOMOS Power Reserve review

Nomos is the brand of entry level luxury Bauhaus design. Typically offering decluttered dials, no nonsense design and some of the best value in the luxury watch world.  So is the Nomos Tangente power reserve the German watch for you? Case The Nomos Tangente power reserve features a stainless steel case, 35mm in circumference and only 6.6mm thick. The case itself takes an interesting shape having a raised band of steel around the center of its construction leaving depressions above and below the mid case. This offers some visual interest to what is already a remarkably slim and slender watch. The model weighing only 40grams including the supplied leather strap, offers the wearer the opportunity to constantly forget that it’s on their wrist.  The stainless steel is finished to a high polish on all sides. There is the presence of a typically industrial and lets face it, German no nonsense crown, which features deep cuts for easy manipulation. Everything about the case on this watch screams German watch design, nothing is overdone, nothing is unnecessary or flamboyant. That is, until you see the lugs. The lugs are a strong statement in design from the Glashutte manufacturer. They protrude from the case and drop sharply at 45 degrees. They give the watch a much longer stance than the 35mm case size would suggest. Because of this design choice the watch wears 44mm lug to lug. When on the wrist I found the face of the watch appears about 2mm too small for the lugs. Although t...

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic: Enchanting Ultra-Thin In Titanium, Gold, Ceramic And Now In Steel Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic: Enchanting Ultra-Thin Jan 30, 2020

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic: Enchanting Ultra-Thin In Titanium, Gold, Ceramic And Now In Steel

Ever since the Bulgari Octo Finissimo premiered in 2017 George Cramer has been very attracted to the model, but was also afraid that the case would be too large for his wrist. But in Paris one day, he tried an Octo Finissimo on in the Bulgari boutique and was immediately convinced that it was perfect and also very comfortable. But he then had to decide which version was his favorite.

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Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition SJX Watches
Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Jan 16, 2020

Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition

The Zenith Defy 21 is unquestionably strong value for money – a 1/100th of a second chronograph starting at just over US$10,000 for the base model in titanium. But most of the iterations of the Defy 21 so far have a highly technical look, combining a skeletonised dial with a large, angular case. Now the Defy 21 design has taken a sharp turn in another another direction: with the help of Land Rover, Zenith has given it a makeover, creating the minimalist and functional Defy 21 Land Rover Edition. While automotive-inspired watches are often over designed, the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition has been redesigned in a simple and effective manner; the watch has been streamlined and pared back, giving it a slightly military look that works. The styling is a nod to the 2020 Land Rover Defender, the most no-nonsense of the British carmaker’s offerings that was launched in late 2019. Clean lines and surfaces To start with the case is micro-blasted titanium – finished with a finer-than-usual frosting that is faintly granular, in contrast to the coarser frosting that is more commonly applied to titanium. The surface is smooth enough that is resembles a coating, but it is natural titanium. The simplicity of the case finish is appealing, because it suits the chunky, angular form of the case. But it is also practical, because it reduces the perceived size of the case, which is large at 44 mm by 14.4 mm. But being titanium, the case is fairly lightweight and wears comfortably, though...

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Up Close: Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire SJX Watches
Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire Chanel’s Jan 11, 2020

Up Close: Chanel Monsieur Édition Noire

Chanel’s best known watch is unquestionably the all-ceramic J12, now in its refined and upgraded second generation. But its most interesting watch – from a mechanic and design perspective – is the Monsieur de Chanel. Originally offered only in precious metals, the watch was last year given a stylish makeover with the Monsieur Édition Noire that’s clad entirely in matte black ceramic. A jumping hour with retrograde minutes, the Édition Noire is powered by the Calibre 1, an original, integrated movement produced with help from independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier. But equally important is its design, which is discreetly brilliant. The watch has the sort of thoughtful aesthetic that pays attention to the whole but also the details – the typeface used on the dial was designed expressly for the watch – that is expected from the grand Parisian fashion house. In fact, the design is more coherent and informed than many watches created by traditional watchmakers. The Chanel elements of the watch are subtle, like the octagonal frame for the hours inspired by the Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle The long road Like other luxury fashion houses, Chanel has been working hard to make proper timepieces, watches that are well made and equipped with respectable movements. Earlier this year it took a 20% stake in movement maker Kenissi, in a joint venture with Tudor, which now produces calibres for the face-lifted J12. Kenissi is merely the latest investment in Chanel’s gradual...

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RECOMMENDED READING: DIY watch waterproofing Time+Tide
Jan 11, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: DIY watch waterproofing

The topic of watch water resistance is a tried and true watch forum favourite, showing just how motivated watch enthusiasts are to keep their wristwatches running underwater. If it’s expressed in bar, metres or feet, anyone who has spent a few months salary on a new watch is understandably interested in keeping their watch away … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: DIY watch waterproofing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 5177 Dec 26, 2019

Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel

Breguet is often at its best when it does traditionally styled watches with a twist, something exemplified by the Classique 5175 limited edition made for its Tokyo boutique in 2017. The design was classical, but the dial was blue enamel, instead of the usual white (or occasionally, black). This year Breguet revived the same look – albeit with a date window – for the new Classique 5177, once again in blue enamel. A longstanding model in the catalogue, the Classique 5177 was launched in 2006, but in more traditional livery – white enamel, or guilloche in either basketweave or hobnail. The latest iteration, however, is the most striking of the lot, managing to be both traditional and different. Formal dress At 38mm by 8.8mm, the case is perfectly proportioned as a modern dress watch; not too big and not too small. Like all Breguet watches it has long, narrow lugs, which give it a slightly larger footprint than its dimensions imply. On the wrist the watch sits graceful and flat, proportions that give it a look of proper formality, especially when combined with its restrained design. The profile of the traditional Breguet watch case, with a fluted case band and soldered lugs All the details of the new 5177 are old school, inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The obvious ones are the Breguet-style numerals and hands, while the less obvious, and more charming, elements include the star-shaped minute markers and the Breguet “secret” signature above six o’c...

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Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet Time+Tide
Hublot has Nov 20, 2019

Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet

Horological disruptors Hublot are hosting an exhibition right now at the Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts (MUDAC) in Lausanne, Switzerland … but it’s not for watches. No, the Swiss watchmaker is hosting what is said to be one of the best sneaker exhibitions ever assembled. And while this may sound slightly off-brand for … ContinuedThe post Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Swiss Watch Exports to Hong Kong Plunge 30% in October SJX Watches
Nov 19, 2019

Business News: Swiss Watch Exports to Hong Kong Plunge 30% in October

The latest figures from trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) show a massive fall in Swiss watch exports to Hong Kong, a statistic that is proxy for sales of luxury watches. According to the FH numbers for the month of October 2019, exports to Hong Kong fell 29.7% to 191.3m Swiss francs. This comes after a more measured, 4.6% drop in September. Exports to Hong Hong have now fallen below those to China, which rose 10.8% to 218.4m francs. Enjoying a 11.2% rise to 227.5m francs is the United States, which was the largest market for Swiss watches in October. For the year to date, Hong Kong remains the world’s largest market for Swiss watches, though the gap between it and the second-placed United States is falling. Hong Kong imported 2.26 billion francs of Swiss watches in the year to date – a fall of 8.8% compared to the same period las year – compared to 1.97 billion francs for the United States. Pedder Street in Hong Kong’s Central business district, ordinarily a shopping paradise. Photo – Hong Kong Tourism Board The drop in watch exports to the city confirm industry talk that the luxury goods has been hard hit by the six months of protests that have roiled Hong Kong. Shops located in the worst affected areas can only stay open for a fraction of a business day, or not at all on some days. Several executives from both watch brands and retailers in the territory have cited consecutive, month-on-month drops in store sales that reach into the double d...

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Grand Seiko’s big Black Ceramic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (ref. SBGC221) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s big Black Ceramic Oct 25, 2019

Grand Seiko’s big Black Ceramic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (ref. SBGC221)

Editor’s note: Grand Seiko is typically seen as a restrained brand design-wise (dials excepted), but this 46mm chunk of titanium and ceramic proves that the brand has it in them to pull a modern sports chrono out of the bank when it matters … To be honest, when I first saw Grand Seiko’s contemporary-looking new … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko’s big Black Ceramic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (ref. SBGC221) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions … Time+Tide
Oct 15, 2019

Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions …

It’s a question we never, ever get tired of asking. What sealed the deal on your watch? What was the straw that broke the camel’s wallet? The way the light melts across the domed box crystal? The price you got from that uncle with a gambling problem? The day you saw it on someone else … ContinuedThe post Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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