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Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Worn & Wound
Lorier Oct 25, 2024

Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph

No Windup Watch Fair would be complete without Lorier. Since the brand’s introduction six years ago, they have become a fixture of the show and a consistent hit among attendees. Seriously, anyone who dropped by Center 415 this past weekend will know just how hard it was to even get to the Lorier booth. The big draw for the brand this week was their latest release; a new chronograph they’re calling the Olympia. In the lead-up to the show, I got to spend some time with the new watch, and with Windup behind us and the Olympia now available to everyone, it seemed like the right time to share my thoughts. Before we get into the specifics of the watch itself, it’s worth taking a moment to consider where this new model will sit in the Lorier catalog, and what it’s doing there. The short answer is that the Lorier Olympia is taking the place of the immensely popular Lorier Gemini. That watch, which was first unveiled at Windup Watch Fair in New York City a full five years ago, was a mid-century inspired bi-compax chronograph powered by the Seagull ST19 hand-wound movement. $899 Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement SII NE88 Dial White Lume Yes Lens Acrylic Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 13.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty Yes Price $899 I’ve always felt that the Lorier Gemini (and the Lorier Gemini SII) represented a serious step forward for Lorier. The introduction of t...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko 5 Sports 1968 Heritage Design Re-creation WatchAdvice
Seiko 5 Sports 1968 Heritage Oct 23, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko 5 Sports 1968 Heritage Design Re-creation

With a chic vintage style, retro sporty looks, and a design blueprint pulled from 1968, The Seiko 5 Sports 1968 Heritage ticks a lot of boxes! What We Love: The silver brushed dial with touches of colour on the seconds hand and writing The vintage racer strap gives off those retro vibes The size will suit most wrists What We Don’t: The bracelet design doesn’t look as good as the strap Bi-directional beel is smooth rotating, with nothing to lock it in place at a reference point The case style may not be to everyone’s liking Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Vintage has been the theme this year for Seiko, and while it may seem we’ve reviewed this piece already, fear not, as this is another vintage re-creation that Seiko has pulled from their archives from 1968. During the middle of the year, Seiko released the Seiko 5 Sports 1968 Heritage Design Re-creation, a piece that has been done as a faithful tribute to the 1968 Seiko 5 Sports, and in their words, done as close to the original as possible. “Reproduced in a size and shape as close as possible to the original, the reissued design is powered by the tried-and-trusted Calibre 4R36 automatic movement. The new creation strikes a perfect balance between the nostalgic design of the original and the modern watchmaking technology of today.” Seiko The original Seiko 5 Sports from 1968. Image courtesy of Seiko RELATED READING: REVIEW: Hands On With Th...

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Hands-On: the Trafford Touring GMT Worn & Wound
Oct 21, 2024

Hands-On: the Trafford Touring GMT

I am no stranger to the road, often finding myself lost on winding backcountry roads, grabbing cocktails in random local bars, and hunting for the hidden gems that make travel great. It can be easy to get lost in these adventures, jumping over time zones with an unwillingness to turn back towards my standard everyday life. That is where, annoyingly, a watch becomes more than just a watch. It becomes the rope tied to schedules and obligations that unobtrusively pulls you back to reality through the whirring of a rotor. While I certainly can not claim to be the modern American artist for whom this watch was designed, I have seen its inspiration scattered throughout random roads lost to different eras still holding the memories of its previous travelers. So, it seemed only fitting that part of my time spent with the new Trafford Touring GMT would occur on a spur-of-the-moment road trip down to West Virginia. Trafford is a brand I am very familiar with having been hooked on Nathan’s designs since he first shared a single teaser image of the Crossroads (his previous, rectangular model) in a watch Facebook group. Of course, I backed the Kickstarter grabbing myself a cabaret dial version, and then would eventually go on to get to know Nathan more during our collaboration on a certain “Wonderful” video I am sure many of you have seen by now. It was at this time that Nathan shared more teasers with me, this time of a round case with a similarly bold design language featuring ...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Oct 20, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport is a piece that isn’t for the faint of heart, and is aimed squarely at those who appreciate motorsport – so we thought we would test drive this in the real world to see how it performs. What We Love: The bold design elements The rose gold case paired with the black accents Super comfortable piece to wear What We Don’t: The 44mm size won’t suit all wrist sizes Lack of a screw-down crown on a sports piece Lack of detailing and design on the rubber strap Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 TAG Heuer’s motorsport roots are well-known, to the point where if you don’t associate TAG Heuer with motorsport, then I’d say that you’re probably also unaware of the brand. Ok, I’m being a little facetious here, but you get my point. The fact that they have a watch named after an F1 race (The Monaco) and another that was designed in 1963 after Jack Heuer was enamoured by the Carrera Panamericana race in Mexico (The Carrera) should give this away, but also highlights the brand’s close ties with motor racing. This is no more evidenced by the fact that TAG Heuer will be taking over from Rolex as the official timing partner for Formula 1 from 2025 for the next 10 years as part of the deal between Formula 1 and LVMH. Global Luxury Giant LVMH Inks A Historic 10-Year Deal With Formula 1 So it comes as no surprise that last month in early September, TAG Heuer lau...

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First Look – Going Hands-On with the New Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection Monochrome
Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection It isn’t Oct 17, 2024

First Look – Going Hands-On with the New Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection

It isn’t every day that Patek Philippe introduces an entirely new collection, especially a new range of elegant sports watches. But here it is, and it is called the Patek Philippe Cubitus. Three years after discontinuing the celebrated stainless steel blue Nautilus 5711 – or two years, if we include the farewell Olive Green and Tiffany […]

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Hands-On: the Atelier Wen Perception Mù Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Oct 17, 2024

Hands-On: the Atelier Wen Perception Mù

If there’s a single area of the watch world that feels truly exciting and vibrant right now, it’s the small, approachable, independent brands. I like to call them “micro-indies,” because they take elements of what made the microbrand boom so fruitful to many (direct to consumer sales, lots of creativity) and match it up with real watchmaking craft in ways you might not expect. When I got into this hobby years ago, it was common to hear various voices on the watch forums telling you that finding “real” guilloche under five figures is straight up impossible. But new brands, and new ideas, allow for all kinds of new possibilities. Atelier Wen’s Perception integrated bracelet sports watch has become an enthusiast favorite since its inception thanks to their impressive guilloche dials made by a self-taught master of his craft, all at a cost under $4,000. Atelier Wen achieves this, in large part, by embracing Chinese manufacturing, something other brands that approach this segment run away from. But that’s the beauty of the micro-indie landscape: when you rethink how to solve common watchmaking problems, you wind up with uncommon watches that are truly unique.  Atelier Wen has launched their latest Perception, the Millesime 2024 Perception “Mù” at an unusual time in the brand’s history. There is more attention on watches of this ilk than ever before, and frankly it feels like there are parts of the community that are looking to shoot holes in the story At...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve WatchAdvice
Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Oct 16, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve

From the Arctic to the Everyday: The New Terra Nova Evolution What We Love: The new look for the Terra Nova is suited for everyday wear. The blue gradient dial is stunning in person. Polished finishing on the case and bezel gives the watch a luxury look. What We Don’t: The constant seconds counter is oversized for dial. Movement and power reserve can be better to suit modern standards. Minute track can be slimmed down so dial appears less busy. Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 During Watches and Wonders earlier this year, Bremont released numerous timepieces for its Terra Nova collection, with various colour schemes and strap options. This Terra Nova collection can be seen as the brand’s redirection, as in early 2023, the company announced a change of leadership with Davide Cerrato taking over the reins. But let’s take a step back and look at what Bremont was as a watch brand before this new, modern direction took over. As a watchmaker, Bremont has a relatively short history compared to some of the other luxury watch manufacturers; however, in this short span of time, they have already created some memorable timepieces. The story in which the brand was found is also quite the tale! Bremont Founders Nick and Giles English. Image Reference: Bremont.com Bremont was founded in 2002 by British brothers Nick and Giles English. The brothers were drawn to watchmaking and to ultimately created a watch brand t...

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Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore

While much of the focus when discussing Hamilton’s history centers on World War II (for good reason), the brand was making waves within its repertoire decades earlier. In the mid-1930s, the country was in the throes of economic recovery after the Wall Street Crash of 1929. Initiatives like the Social Security Act and the Works Progress Administration, created in 1935, began to reflect a positive return to some stability.  The same year, Hamilton Watch Company – then based out of Lancaster, Pennsylvania – offered a new design to the public: a handsome, fully gold watch called the “Ardmore.” This watch was manufactured for only three years and included a 14K gold case, domed crystal, and curved case design. Newspaper ads from the time show the Ardmore typically priced at $100 – steep enough, given the overall context of the Great Depression, which spanned the entirety of the 1930s. Perhaps this accounted for the Ardmore’s relatively short run. While most would agree we are seeing a trend towards smaller watches in the past few years, the last year alone has seemed to hasten the move towards the teenytiny. Timothee Chalamet is the current face of the Itty Bitty Watch Committee with his various elegant Cartiers, but brands are also driving forces in this movement. Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oaks” in May of this year in various shades of gold. Cartier released the Tank Louis Mini in April. Similarly, Hamilton’s newest addition to their America...

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Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648 WatchAdvice
Zenith  Defy Revival Diver A3648 Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648

Part of Zenith’s Watches & Wonders 2024 releases was a long-overdue Revival of a popular retro model. But does the 70s aesthetic still hold up today? Let’s find out! What We Love: Retro design & old-school cool Tough specs make for good for daily wear Plenty of adjustments for even the smallest wrists What We Don’t: Clasp feels lacking in design Challenging to pull off and style with outfits Smudges easily – a byproduct of all high-polish watches Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 We at Watch Advice were busy throughout all of 2024’s Watches & Wonders. So many brands, so many releases, and all in one place? April was the season for Watch Heaven. With your eyes darting from brand to brand, it’s easy to get lost in the fog of the amazing new models – however, if you don’t slow down and look around, you might realise that you missed something special. ‘Under-the-radar’ is a somewhat apt description of Zenith’s releases at this year’s biggest watch fair. While there were two new modern defy models worth celebrating, one release didn’t seem to get as much press as everything else did. Designed in the ’60s, the Zenith Defy lineup was a distinctive collection in a sea of retro timepieces. However, they were built for one purpose: survival. Zenith wanted to make the most resilient Swiss watch of its time, and they made sure that no stone was left unturned.  The vintage goodness that is the Zen...

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Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47 SJX Watches
Hautlence Retrovision ’47 Best known Oct 3, 2024

Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47

Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon. Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement. Initial thoughts The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio. It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch. I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work. Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs cla...

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Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver Worn & Wound
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Rolex Submariner Sep 30, 2024

Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver

I’d be hard-pressed to name a watch more iterated upon in the last few years than Zodiac’s Sea Wolf. The retro-inspired diver has been at the heart of a true brand renaissance and was at the forefront of the vintage revival movement that has so characterized the watch world over the last decade. Today, Zodiac is looking back to one of its earliest dive watches with the new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691. There is, as with most things watch-related and pre-internet, some debate as to the initial launch date of the Zodiac Sea Wolf, but regardless of the date, there’s no doubt that Zodiac released the Sea Wolf as part of the first wave of dive watches back in the 1950s, but while watches like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster 300 soared (or dove), the Sea Wolf fell into the background - obscured to all but the most devoted watch enthusiasts alongside other early generation dive watches like the Eterna Kon-Tiki and Enicar Sherpa-Dive. By the time I got into watches in the early 2010s, the Zodiac Sea Wolf was one of the great secrets of the enthusiast world. Great examples could be had for a few hundred bucks, so for not much money, you could have a great-looking vintage dive watch with some real history. That all started to change when Zodiac, under the larger umbrella of Fossil Group, revived the Sea Wolf in 2015. The Zodiac Sea Wolf was immediately brought to the center of the horological world and has continued to stay relevant in t...

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

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The New Leica Q3 43mm Has Arrived: Hands-On Impressions From Camera West Worn & Wound
Sep 26, 2024

The New Leica Q3 43mm Has Arrived: Hands-On Impressions From Camera West

Editor’s Note: This post on the new Leica Q3 43mm from Ben Carpenter, Director of Marketing at Camera West, appears in a longer version on the Camera West blog.  Today, Leica announced the Leica Q3 43, a highly anticipated addition to their popular Leica Q series. At Camera West and Leica Store San Francisco, we’ve long been hoping for a longer focal length in the Q lineup, and many of those that we meet through our stores have expressed the same. It’s exciting to finally see this come to fruition with the release of the Q3 43mm. The Leica Q3 43mm offers a “sweet spot” focal length between 35mm and 50mm. This seemingly odd focal length isn’t new for Leica-past cameras like the Minilux, CM, and CL featured a 40mm focal length, which have their own dedicated fan base. While the original 28mm Q lens has its enthusiasts, the 43mm provides a more compressed field of view that some photographers may prefer. Both the Q3 43mm and the Standard Q3 (28mm) share the same internal components, including the 60MP BSI sensor, autofocus system, and OLED viewfinder, but the standout feature of the Q3 43 is its 43mm f2 APO-Summicron ASPH lens, which delivers superior microcontrast and precision thanks to Leica’s advanced optical design. Details At A Glance – The Leica Q3 43mm APO-Summicron 43mm F2 lens contains 4 aspherical elements and a leaf shutter just like its predecessors ISO Range of 50-100k  60mp BSI Sensor with triple resolution technology (18/36/60MP) and 8k vid...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The M.A.D.1 S WatchAdvice
MB&F; Sep 25, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The M.A.D.1 S

A revolution in affordable Haute Horlogerie with the latest M.A.D.1S. What We Love: Affordable haute horology timepiece The three-blade rotor design is well thought out, with it becoming even more fun with lume activated! Despite its thickness, the timepiece sits very well on the wrist thanks to the flat case back. What We Don’t: The hour time barrel is read right to left as it spins counter-clockwise when it should be read left to right The racing-inspired textile leather strap lacks adjustment for slim wrists. Lack of secondary strap choices from M.A.D Editions! Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The M.A.D.1S. is one of the best, if not the best, horological “fun” pieces that are available on the market right now. There are not too many other watches in the luxury world of horology that offer such an amusing timepiece that gets everyone talking, even non-watchgoers! The M.A.D 1 has a relatively short-lived history, as it was first released in June 2021; however, since then, it has been met with an overwhelming reception, giving more and more incentive for the M.A.D. Editions brand to keep creating more innovative, affordable entertainment timepieces! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The brand new 2024 M.A.D.1S. models To understand how M.A.D.1 first came about, we need to look at how the brand M.A.D Edition started and how its big sister brand, MB&F;, played a maj...

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Hands-on – The Lovely, Accessible Alpina Heritage Automatic Monochrome
Alpina Heritage Automatic Sometimes simplicity Sep 23, 2024

Hands-on – The Lovely, Accessible Alpina Heritage Automatic

Sometimes simplicity is best, especially in the watch game, and Alpina proves that looking back at another era can be an aesthetic winner today. Many brands have vintage-inspired collections that pull from older, often historic models, so this is certainly nothing new. Alpina’s expanding Heritage collection, however, encapsulates the best of the brand with style, […]

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REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 Sep 20, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770

The Riviera 10770: Baume & Mercier’s Perfect Balance of Form and Function is now met with a brilliant emerald-green dial! What We Love: Exceptional dial design The movement offers a 5-day power reserve A smaller and slimmer case makes it more versatile. What We Don’t: The bracelet design is too plain for Riviera’s case finishing and dial design Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of colour options for secondary strap options (to colour match with the dial) Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9.3/10 Wearability: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.75/10 Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier, as a watchmaker, has long been known to have a deep-rooted passion for horology, reflected through their timepeices that show elegance and precision. Brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume founded Baume & Mercier, and the brand quickly found itself on the international stage with a reputation for creating watches of exceptional quality, earning them numerous awards for precision at international exhibitions. In 1918, Baume & Mercier further solidified its “luxury image” by bringing in Paul Mercier as a partner. Paul Mercier brought a modern vision to the brand, leaning more towards aesthetic innovation while still upholding the brand’s technical excellence. This philosophy of Paul Mercier laid the groundwork for future Baume & Mercier collections! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Baume & Mercier (@baumeetmercier) All-new Baume & Mercier Riviera 10...

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Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Sep 19, 2024

Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium

Longines, somehow, still feels slept on to me. In the hierarchy or Swatch Group brands, they sit in a place where they really should be insanely popular with enthusiasts and the mass market alike, but somehow they often feel like a brand struggling to break into the wider conversation. To be fair, I have no idea about the relative commercial success Longines has experienced over these last few years – it’s quite possible that everyone at Longines and Swatch are quite happy with their performance. Anecdotally, though, I just don’t see them on wrists very often, either at local neighborhood watch meetups, or in the wild. And that’s kind of a shame, because whenever I actually spend time with a Longines watch, I come away feeling impressed. I’ve long held that they do vintage reissues better than just about anyone. Whoever has the job of raiding the archives and picking watches to resurface from the brand’s long history has impeccable taste, and an innate understanding of the watches that hit the center of the Venn Diagram covering “aesthetically interesting” and “historically important.” They’ve done a great job of telling the brand’s story with a string of excellent heritage releases.  But Longines is too big, of course, to just release vintage inspired watches, so in a moment a few years back when it was clear that the heritage gravy train wasn’t going to run forever, they introduced the Spirit collection. An entirely new line, the Spirit watches...

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