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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Video Review – A Closer Look at the Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance, and Its Brilliant 12:59 “Show Off” Mode Monochrome
Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 4 days ago

Video Review – A Closer Look at the Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance, and Its Brilliant 12:59 “Show Off” Mode

The idea of combining the resonance effect and a minute repeater isn’t new to Armin Strom. The independent watchmaker already, back in 2019, presented a technically impressive watch (what else to expect, as everything the brand does is technically impressive), the Masterpiece Minute Repeater Resonance. Regarding pure watchmaking, there was nothing to complain about here. […]

Bring a Loupe: The Most Important American Watch Ever Made, A Vianney Halter Jump Hour, An Omega Soyuz, And More Hodinkee
Longines 4 days ago

Bring a Loupe: The Most Important American Watch Ever Made, A Vianney Halter Jump Hour, An Omega Soyuz, And More

Happy Friday, friends, and congrats on tackling another week. The days are now growing shorter (if you're north of the equator), and if you, like me, live in a state where fireworks are legal, best of luck for what will presumably be a very loud and long week. But before all that, let's take a moment and enjoy some watches. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Dugena and Mulco chronographs don't sell till the 27th, but the Rolex 6241 sold for 2,000,000 CHF, the Patek 5960 for 34,000 CHF, the Excelsior Park Monte Carlo passed, the Longines for TKTK (emailed, price not updated), and the Tavannes for TKTK (sells 6/25). Strays For all the Movado heads, this pocket watch looks spectacular, and if that doesn't ring your cherries, here's a gold-plated dual-time that's almost intimidatingly beautiful. My urge to recommend no-name skin divers will apparently never abate, and this week's pick is this Altitude that looks fantastic and is unlikely to sell for more than a few hundred dollars. Speaking of excellent divers, here's a Lip Nautic Ski, and, sure, it's a quartz watch from the 1970s, so (some) headaches await (though the watch is currently running, according to the listing), but I'm lately unable to shake an intense fondness for these latter Piquerez super compressor cases with their huge bezel and recessed crowns. Lastly, this Ebel is perfect; please buy it, someone, so I can stop thinking and debating if I should pursue the thing. Before getting into the main watches, I'd lik...

First Look – The new Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Brings Refinement to the Collection Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Brings Refinement 4 days ago

First Look – The new Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Brings Refinement to the Collection

Maurice Lacroix introduced the 1975 collection last year to mark its 50th anniversary. Since then, the line has expanded to include GMT and day-date models, as well as the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde, which was released earlier this year. Now, the Swiss brand welcomes the new 1975 Legacy with a machine-guilloché petite seconde display that sits […]

The Power of Color: A New Dial Shade Joins the echo/neutra Rivanera Collection Worn & Wound
Cartier Heuer Omega 4 days ago

The Power of Color: A New Dial Shade Joins the echo/neutra Rivanera Collection

I got my start in the watch industry in the pre-owned and vintage arena. With that entry point, the foundation of my horological knowledge was based largely in the traditional sector (think the big three, Cartier, Heuer, Omega, and the like). As my career path has led me to watch journalism, my appetite has expanded exponentially, but I have to confess: more traditional brands are still my safe space if you will. In my years contributing to Worn & Wound, I’ve been pushed out of my comfort zone in the most rewarding way – discovering a vast world of watchmaking beyond traditional brands that regularly energizes and surprises me. So, once again, a brand came across my virtual desk that was new to me despite being a staple at Worn & Wound: echo/neutra. As I scrolled through the stories on the site, I landed on one by Zach Kazan from 2024 detailing the launch of the collection that’s expanding today, the Rivanera, and I immediately noticed his sentiments on the element of surprise, “those moments of surprise, seeing or reading about a watch that you didn’t expect or couldn’t have conceived of.”Just like his first impressions of the echo/neutra Rivanera collection two years back, I too am surprised by how instantly drawn I was to this model in its latest incarnation. Today, the Ros’Antico joins the lineup, bringing both a liveliness and a softness to the collection with a simple touch of color. The surprises continue with how profoundly color can ignite a new pe...

First Look – Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon Watches for the 225th Anniversary of its Invention Monochrome
Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon 4 days ago

First Look – Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon Watches for the 225th Anniversary of its Invention

Precisely 225 years ago on this day (on June 26, 1801, or on 7 Messidor An IX, to use the French Republican calendar in force at the time), Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for what is, without a doubt, its most famous invention: the tourbillon. Designed to counter the problem of gravity affecting the […]

In-Depth – The Superbly Elegant new 35mm Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 Monochrome
Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 Tourbillon 4 days ago

In-Depth – The Superbly Elegant new 35mm Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357

Tourbillon and Breguet are two words that belong in the same story. Indeed, on 26 June 1801, and thus exactly 225 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for his invention, an anti-gravity device that he would name the tourbillon. And today, the brand celebrates this crucial invention by releasing a series of new […]

Fratello Talks: Breguet’s CEO On The Latest Tradition 7047, 225 Years Of The Tourbillon, And The Brand’s Future Fratello
Breguet s CEO 4 days ago

Fratello Talks: Breguet’s CEO On The Latest Tradition 7047, 225 Years Of The Tourbillon, And The Brand’s Future

On the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon patent, we sit down with Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling to discuss the latest version of the Tourbillon 7047, the brand’s enduring appeal, and the future of one of watchmaking’s most historic names. Before taking the helm at Breguet on October 1st, 2024, Kissling served as Vice President of […] Visit Fratello Talks: Breguet’s CEO On The Latest Tradition 7047, 225 Years Of The Tourbillon, And The Brand’s Future to read the full article.

225 Years After The Tourbillon’s Invention, The Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Spins In The Best Of Traditions Fratello
Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Spins 4 days ago

225 Years After The Tourbillon’s Invention, The Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Spins In The Best Of Traditions

The year after Breguet turned 250, the brand celebrates another big milestone, the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon. It does so with several gravity-defying watches, and we had the chance to experience the newest Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047, a platinum 25-piece limited edition outfitted with a spinning one-minute tourbillon and a fascinating fusée-and-chain mechanism. The […] Visit 225 Years After The Tourbillon’s Invention, The Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047 Spins In The Best Of Traditions to read the full article.

Introducing: Breguet Celebrates the 225th Anniversary of the Tourbillon with Four New Releases, And the Return of a Collector Favorite (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Breguet Celebrates 4 days ago

Introducing: Breguet Celebrates the 225th Anniversary of the Tourbillon with Four New Releases, And the Return of a Collector Favorite (Live Pics)

The year was 7 Messidor Year IX—or for those who don't follow the French Republican Calendar, June 26, 1801. After years of intense study and experimentation and some correspondence with his friend John Arnold (who similarly experimented with the concept before his death in 1799), Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a 10-year patent for the "tourbillon." By 1829, Breguet and his workshop would only make 40 watches with the regulating organ, which was designed to eliminate positional errors and distribute oil (which often thickened in place), thereby lubricating parts more evenly. A Breguet four-minute tourbillon watch with échappement naturel, which sold at Sotheby's last year for CHF 1,880,000. Photo courtesy Sotheby's. Well, Abraham-Louis Breguet (and John Arnold) would be proud of how far the concept of the tourbillon has come—he may even be spinning himself if he saw some of the things that have happened with the tourbillon, like Alfred Helwig's invention of the flying tourbillon, let alone the first tourbillon wristwatch—and how many of those concepts have been integrated into watches made under his name. Add to that the fact that Breguet annually makes multiple times the number of his lifetime production, and it's just pretty cool how far things have come in 225 years. The Breguet Experimentale 1, which was launched late last year. The 10Hz, 1-minute tourbillon was one of the most extreme tourbillons ever made. Exposition out of the way, Breguet is celebrating t...

Introducing – The New Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune Monochrome
5 days ago

Introducing – The New Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune

Van Cleef & Arpels approaches watchmaking as a medium for storytelling. The brand’s Poetic Complications line, launched in 2006, unites its high jewellery and artistic expertise with sophisticated mechanical movements to bring these stories to life. Expanding its Jour Nuit collection, Van Cleef adds a moon phase complication with on-demand animation inside the majestic Midnight […]

The Ultimate Fourth of July Gift Guide with Bremont’s Terra Nova Jumping Hour 1776 Worn & Wound
Bremont s Terra Nova Jumping 5 days ago

The Ultimate Fourth of July Gift Guide with Bremont’s Terra Nova Jumping Hour 1776

For many Americans, the Fourth of July means fireworks, backyard barbecues, and the one day a year that a stars-and-stripes t-shirt somehow feels perfectly acceptable. Yet beyond the spectacle and celebration, Independence Day is ultimately about something much simpler: coming together with friends and family to celebrate the history and ideals that continue to define […]

Brew Introduces the Metric Copper, their Latest Manually Wound Watch Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces 5 days ago

Brew Introduces the Metric Copper, their Latest Manually Wound Watch

Is there a brand that more completely blurs the line between the definition of “microbrand” and “independent brand” than Brew? It depends, of course, on how you define each term. If a brand needs to exist in the haute horlogerie space and craft movements or other components from scratch in an artisanal way to be considered “independent,” then Brew will probably never qualify under those terms. But if your criteria is an intentional, well defined point of view on watchmaking with a clear, instantly recognizable design language, all executed according to the singular creative vision of the brand’s founder, Brew easily fits. I’ve never been one to see microbrand as a pejorative or diminishing label, but in Brew’s case I might argue that it doesn’t necessarily reflect the brand’s growth over the last decade, and the widespread recognition and popularity they’ve found outside of the enthusiast space.  Importantly, Brew continues to find interesting ways to iterate on the themes established since the brand’s founding by Jonathan Ferrer, the founder and designer behind the brand. It would be easy for Brew to simply pump out new colorways for successful models, but instead they’ve taken steps (sometimes, admittedly, slower than some collectors and enthusiasts would like) to gradually expand what people think of when they consider what Brew actually is. To that end, their latest watch is a new version of their manually wound Metric (with a Swiss movemen...

Presenting the Lead Sponsors of Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026 and More! Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen eBay Live 5 days ago

Presenting the Lead Sponsors of Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026 and More!

Summer means Windup Watch Fair returns to Chicago, and we’re thrilled to once again bring hundreds of watches, great conversations, and unforgettable experiences to our brand-new venue, Morgan MFG. Alongside more than 70 exhibiting brands, special events, and panel discussions, we’re proud to announce our Lead Sponsors for Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026: Atelier Wen, Christopher Ward, Citizen, eBay Live, and Oris. First, here are the necessary details: Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 10 – Sunday, July 12, 2026 Morgan MFG 401 N Morgan St Suite #100 Chicago, IL 60642 Free and open to everyone. No registration necessary.   Each of our Lead Sponsors is bringing exciting new products and experiences to Chicago that you won’t want to miss. Here’s a sneak peek at just a few of the highlights you’ll find during Windup weekend in the Windy City. Atelier Wen: Perception V3 Founded to celebrate the richness of Chinese craftsmanship through a modern lens, Atelier Wen has become one of the most compelling independent brands in contemporary watchmaking. Their latest release, the Perception V3, elevates the integrated sports watch with hand-turned guilloché dials and a beautifully finished French-made Pequignet movement, representing the fullest expression yet of the brand’s unique identity. With a hand-guilloché dial crafted by master artisan Cheng Yucai and a French-made Pequignet caliber featuring bespoke finishing inspired by Chinese motifs, the Perception V3 ...

Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II 5 days ago

Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II

Continuing Doxa's focus on its core late-60s aesthetic, the brand recently unveiled the T.Graph II, the latest iteration of its core dive chronograph. Reborn but largely faithful to the original (and indeed to some more recent T.Graph forays), the new T.Graph II ports the Sub 300's classic look into a burly yet entirely wearable automatic chronograph that comes in Doxa's classic trio of colors, along with the surprise inclusion of a blue "Caribbean" execution. With a flagship price tag, it's a model that has previously been hard to source and often even more expensive, so the question becomes: is the new T.Graph II the dive-ready Doxa chronograph we've been waiting for? Don't fret, we'll get to all that and more. But first, a quick history lesson to bring us all loosely up to speed on the T.Graph, as it's a model with a cult following but was previously never made in any considerable quantity. T.Graphs Past To keep things as basic as possible (because Jason Heaton has written extensively about, and dived with, vintage T.Graphs – here with a Searambler, and here with a Sharkhunter), the new Sub 200 T.Graph II is based on a low-production design from 1969 called the Sub 200 T.Graph. While there is some contention over production numbers, it is believed that ~300 of each of the original colorways (Sharkhunter, Searambler, and Professional) were produced. Again, I recommend both of Jason's stories, even if only so you can see how absolutely gorgeous a vintage Sub 200 T.Graph...

Introducing – The Baltic Scalegraph Collection Becomes Permanent, Now in Champagne, Blue, and Grey Monochrome
Baltic Scalegraph Collection Becomes Permanent 5 days ago

Introducing – The Baltic Scalegraph Collection Becomes Permanent, Now in Champagne, Blue, and Grey

When the Paris-based brand Baltic released the Peter Auto Tricompax in 2022, it was well received by enthusiasts. The watch looked straight back at classic racing chronographs and carried a strong vintage feel. This 1960s-inspired limited-edition watch fit neatly into Baltic’s chronograph story, which began in 2017 with the neo-vintage Bicompax 001 and later became […]

Introducing – The New Armin Strom Orbit Midnight Purple Monochrome
Armin Strom Orbit Midnight Purple 5 days ago

Introducing – The New Armin Strom Orbit Midnight Purple

The Orbit, presented in 2022, is one of the defining models within Armin Strom’s catalogue. With the date displayed on demand via the bezel, it offered an original take on a function that has stayed mostly unchanged for decades. Since the launch, the independent Biel-based manufacture has produced several editions, including the inaugural First Edition, […]

Channeling The Colorful Racing Culture Of The 1970s With The New Farer Racing Chronographs Fratello
Farer Racing Chronographs Ask watch 5 days ago

Channeling The Colorful Racing Culture Of The 1970s With The New Farer Racing Chronographs

Ask watch fans what makes Farer stand out, and chances are that you’ll quickly get an answer involving colors. The London-based brand has a knack for them. A great example is the Lissom collection that I reviewed last year. It’s a group of daily wearers that shows the importance of colors in creating a great […] Visit Channeling The Colorful Racing Culture Of The 1970s With The New Farer Racing Chronographs to read the full article.

Chinese Haute Horlogerie From “The Geneva of the East?” — The New Peacock Haiyi Tourbillon Yu Limited Edition Fratello
5 days ago

Chinese Haute Horlogerie From “The Geneva of the East?” — The New Peacock Haiyi Tourbillon Yu Limited Edition

Please meet Peacock, a Chinese watch brand that has been creating complicated timepieces since 1957, and its Haiyi Tourbillon, a 40mm limited-edition dive watch with a colorful Lindsay-engraved enameled dial in three colors. You might not be familiar with Liaoning Peacock, also known as the Peacock Watch Company, but the manufacturer from Dandong, China, is […] Visit Chinese Haute Horlogerie From “The Geneva of the East?” — The New Peacock Haiyi Tourbillon Yu Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing – New, Softer Colour Schemes for the Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm Monochrome
Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm Alongside 5 days ago

Introducing – New, Softer Colour Schemes for the Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm

Alongside the sporty Fifty Fathoms, Bathyscaphe or Air Command collections, the Villeret range, named after the village in the Vallée de Joux, where Jehan-Jacques Blancpain set up his workshop on the top floor of his house in 1735, is the epitome of classic. Ranging from time-only to high complications, the entry-level model to the Villeret […]

Introducing: The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (Now In 38mm) Hodinkee
Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate Now 6 days ago

Introducing: The Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (Now In 38mm)

What We Know Today, Blancpain has downsized its ultra-thin Villeret Ultraplate dress watch, with new options in 38mm for greater wearability. The previous 40mm options of the 'Golden Hour' series, which I covered last October, remain, but the 38mm options are going to be much more appealing all around as proper dress watches. The case still remains incredibly thin, especially for a self-winding watch, at 8.35mm, but the 38mm downsizing now offers a short 43.35mm lug-to-lug measurement for small wrists and those who prefer the more traditional proportion of how a dress watch should look on the wrist. Here, four options are presented within these new measurements: three with stainless steel cases, and one in 18K red gold. The dial design continues the visual update introduced last October in the Villeret series, with simplified Roman numerals, the applied "JB" logo at 12 o'clock (standing for Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, who the brand credits as the founder), slim but still lumed leaf hands, and a skeletonized rotor. In stainless steel, there are three dial colors available. Salmon is a first for the Villeret collection, with a copper-hued dial paired with anthracite-coated 18K gold numerals. My favorite of the lineup, the Villeret Ultraplate featuring a warm champagne-hued dial with 18K yellow gold numerals set within a steel case with a green nubuck strap, will be offered as a boutique exclusive. More classic pairings of white gold numerals in a steel case and red gold numeral...

The Best Summer Watches — Nacho’s Picks From Vaer, Doxa, Omega, And More Fratello
Omega 6 days ago

The Best Summer Watches — Nacho’s Picks From Vaer, Doxa, Omega, And More

Summer is officially here! My colleagues have all been writing in anticipation of the official start of the year’s warmest season, but I have the privilege of being the first to report from within. And things have kicked off to a sweltering start. This week, temperatures are set to reach the mid-30s Celsius here in […] Visit The Best Summer Watches — Nacho’s Picks From Vaer, Doxa, Omega, And More to read the full article.

A Preview Of The National Geographic Museum Of Exploration And The Rolex Landing Hodinkee
Rolex Landing It was about 6 days ago

A Preview Of The National Geographic Museum Of Exploration And The Rolex Landing

It was about halfway through James Cameron's speech on the Rolex Landing at the new National Geographic Museum of Exploration in Washington, D.C., that I glanced up. There, suspended above my head, was a familiar yellow object. To the uninitiated (and less nerdy), it might look like an alien spaceship from a low-budget sci-fi film. But I knew what it was immediately: Jacques Cousteau's soucoupe, the diving saucer from his 1964 documentary, "World Without Sun."  As I listened to Cameron go on about his descent to Challenger Deep, I looked around at all these incredible objects—there was the bathysphere that William Beebe climbed into and descended to over 3,000 feet in 1934. Down the hall, the Maruti Suzuki 4x4 used by Sandesh Kadur to track wildlife in India, its tires still muddy.  A dugout canoe, once upended by a hippo, used by Steve Boyes while searching for the source of the Zambezi. A Chinese terra cotta warrior. And a one-atmosphere JIM suit like the one in which Dr. Sylvia Earle walked 1,000 feet deep on the ocean floor. For a student of exploration history like me, this was nothing short of nirvana. Rolex has been a supporting partner to the National Geographic Society since 1954. Those were halcyon days for exploration and the introduction of Rolex's most legendary tool watches—the Explorer, the Submariner, and the GMT-Master. The names Rolex and National Geographic have been intertwined ever since, and I, for one, recall seeing those great print ads in the...

Grand Seiko Announces a Major Refresh for the Evolution 9 Collection Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Announces 6 days ago

Grand Seiko Announces a Major Refresh for the Evolution 9 Collection

Grand Seiko has announced a major refresh in their Evolution 9 collection across multiple metals and movements, and incorporating enthusiast favorite dial designs. A total of nine new watches have been announced as part of the update, and together they serve as what appears to be a new standard for Grand Seiko’s flagship collection. There’s a lot to chew on here, and depending on what interests you about Grand Seiko (or where you feel they have shortcomings) a number of different aspects of this update might be what draws you in. Everything they’ve announced, though, represents tangible improvement over what came before.  First, the news that many enthusiasts will probably zero in on immediately: Grand Seiko’s micro-adjustable clasp now appears to be standard. After introducing it last year in a limited fashion, there were plenty of gripes about backwards compatibility and options for the future. The message here seems to be that the more heavily tapered bracelet with micro-adjustment built into the clasp will be a regular feature across Evolution 9 watches. Importantly, for these releases, that applies to both 37mm and 40mm references.  Grand Seiko is also standardizing their premium alloys in steel and titanium in the Evolution 9 collection. Of the new watches introduced this week, the seven in steel are all in Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel alloy, which has a more lustrous shine and shows off Grand Seiko’s finishing more dramatically than standard stee...

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25xs Sand Winds Monochrome
De Bethune DB25xs Sand Winds One 6 days ago

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25xs Sand Winds

One of the most distinctive indie brands on the scene today, it’s impossible to mistake a De Bethune watch. Some of the signature aesthetic clues, developed by master watchmaker and co-founder Denis Flageollet, are heat-treated titanium components and random guilloché patterns. As a counterweight to the more futuristic and flagship DB28 family, the more classical […]

Introducing: Grand Seiko Updates The Core Evolution 9 Collection With Tapered Bracelets And Micro-Adjustment Clasps (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Updates 6 days ago

Introducing: Grand Seiko Updates The Core Evolution 9 Collection With Tapered Bracelets And Micro-Adjustment Clasps (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Grand Seiko introduces nine new variants to the three-hander, time-and-date models in its Evolution 9 collection. If you're feeling overwhelmed by that already, don't worry. Yes, there's quite a bit of nuance to unpack here among all these references, but not all nine are really new watches, per se. Many of them are existing models, just slightly modified. If you've read the title of this article, you'll already know that the biggest updates to these Evolution 9 models are things that collectors have long clamored for— tapered bracelets and clasps with tool-free microadjustment. Yes, for those who weren't able to achieve a perfect fit with previous Evolution 9 models, they will be able to now and can adjust accordingly, especially in hotter months with more wrist swelling. The clasp design comes from the original Evolution UFA SLGB003 model introduced last year, but now has spread to the rest of the collection, in both steel and titanium versions, and both 37mm and 40mm. Gone are the 5-day Spring Drive 9RA2 calibers used in the collection, replaced entirely with the U.F.A caliber 9RB2. This means that for those who found the 37mm U.F.A models too small, the more classic 40mm versions now get the ultra-accurate caliber that features an annual rated accuracy of +/- 20 seconds (timing per month is quoted at +/- 3 seconds). This is a big deal, and I think it suggests that Grand Seiko could be making a move to replace all of its Spring Drive calibers down ...