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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931: A Treat That Never Ends Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Aug 12, 2014

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931: A Treat That Never Ends

Sometimes you just get bored with it; Brands that release a seemingly never-ending avalanche of variations of existing models, the difference between them often minor. The same could have been said of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s approach to the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 collection, yet here however, every new variation seems to actually make sense. Not in […]

A Decade Of Design: Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye’s Collection Turns Ten Revolution
Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye’s Collection Turns May 14, 2014

A Decade Of Design: Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye’s Collection Turns Ten

While most men have a preference for round watches, women dare to be different. So it is no wonder that a watch like the Girard Perregaux Cat’s Eye is celebrating it’s 10th anniversary already.  With its exceptional oval shape, the Cat’s Eye collection certainly has a unique presence that appeals to women, otherwise the collection […]

Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight Time+Tide
Rolex if they managed Jul 24, 2023

Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight

Tyson Fury has always had an eye for a nice watch. As Anthony Joshua once recalled, back when he was an amateur, Fury would go around London gyms looking for sparring partners and offering anyone his Rolex if they managed to knock him out. It’s a passion that has endured as he’s become one of … ContinuedThe post Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection Fratello
Studio Underd0g s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes Jul 6, 2026

Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection

Three years ago, Richard Benc and his Studio Underd0g brand released the 02Series collection. The design was based on the iconic Dirty Dozen field watches, with the addition of Studio Underd0g’s typical playful sauce, of course. That resulted in four versions, all of which shared the same layered dial construction. Except for the matte black […] Visit Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection to read the full article.

First Look - Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson, A Meeting of Two Design Worlds Monochrome
Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson Dec 4, 2025

First Look - Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson, A Meeting of Two Design Worlds

Ressence is not what one would call a conventional watchmaker, and let’s hope it never will be. Since its founding in 2010, Benoît Mintiens’ Antwerp-based brand has built its catalogue and reputation by rethinking what a mechanical watch should feel like rather than what it should represent. This time, Ressence reaches out beyond its own […]

Krayon’s Parhelion is a Halo Watch, Literally SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s sapphire-set Celestial Near-Artic Jul 17, 2026

Krayon’s Parhelion is a Halo Watch, Literally

Krayon, the independent that nearly perfected the sunrise and sunset complication for Anywhere and Everywhere on the planet, applies its no-half-measures approach to gem-setting with the Parhelion. Set with 171 sapphires in a gradient from dark blue to colourless, a dozen of which are a unique “Krayon cut”, the Parhelion is a halo product that seeks to recreate a magical moment the brand’s founders experienced in the arctic. Initial Thoughts Given my affinity for baguette set watches and astronomical complications, I don’t stand much of a chance against the Parhelion, a chilly, high jewellery version of the Anywhere. This isn’t Krayon’s first gemset watch, which would be the Everywhere, but is the best yet. I especially appreciate the creation of a novel fancy cut “Krayon-cut” which preserves the hour marker’s original form, something that is often lost in gem-set versions of originally non gem-set watches. Of course, this only worsens the Anywhere’s only fault – other than lack of summer time adjustment – pushing the Anywhere’s already high (if justifiable) price tag over the half-million dollar mark. That is a lot of money, but it is also a lot of watch, and still well below Patek Philippe’s sapphire-set Celestial. Near-Artic Encouter Caused by sunlight passing through hexagonal ice crystals in high-altitude clouds, parhelia (more commonly, sundogs) are a type of halo that mimics a second, and usually a third sun. The effect is most common, an...

Reading Time At HSNY: Playtime Hodinkee
Ming specimens Jun 30, 2026

Reading Time At HSNY: Playtime

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarians. Today's post was written by Miranda Marraccini. Little kids love to touch things. If you've ever been a parent or even just spent time with a toddler, you'll know that an unattended cup of coffee, a billowing plastic bag on the street, or a dirty toy in the sandbox is a temptation no small child can resist. But it's also an amazing quality, because kids are great at hands-on learning, including in the field of horology. In our library collection at the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), we've got plenty of books that show kids how to tell time. Books, however, can only go so far—and I'm saying that as a librarian. For interactive horological fun, our library boasts a selection of kits, games, puzzles, and toys to handle and assemble. Image 2 One of the most charming specimens of children's education we have is a 1940s–1950s era "junior clockmaker construction set" (image 1). On the lid of the box, a proud-looking papa in a full suit (presumably just returned from his job at a midtown advertising agency) watches over his two delighted children, who are working on their toy clock. The completed clock is shown on the left—a traditional chalet-style Black Forest or cuckoo clock, ornamented with festive boy and girl figures dancing over a 12-hour dial, two twee ducks, and a tulip motif. The blond boy on the box is staring straight at the viewer, holding the partially assembled gear train,...

TAG Heuer’s Monaco Gets a La Fabrique du Temps Tune-Up SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton LFT Instead Jun 5, 2026

TAG Heuer’s Monaco Gets a La Fabrique du Temps Tune-Up

The recent management changes at TAG Heuer and the wider LVMH Watch Division have given birth to a surprising collaboration: the Monaco Speed 12, an avant-garde take on TAG Heuer’s iconic square wristwatch that’s powered by the Spin Time movement made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Instead of cubes, hours are indicated by a dozen rotating pistons – the concept is a homage to the V12 engine – that seemingly float in a concentric ring around the dial. Inside the titanium case is a self-winding movement that retains the signature recessed frosting of LFT. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has been having a good run with technically interesting watches – the Monaco Evergraph is a recent example – and the Speed 12 continues the momentum. Admittedly, the Spin Time movement is not in-house, but it is surprisingly coherent despite the drastically different characters of TAG Heuer and Louis Vuitton. The Spin Time complication translates well into TAG Heuer’s automotive-inspired style, both in terms of concept and execution. Also in its favour is the restyled Monaco case that TAG Heuer has employed in other recent launches. Thought still a little chunky, it is sleeker and more ergonomic than earlier iterations of the design. The price tag of US$87,000 is similar to that of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time Air, which unfortunately makes this just a little expensive. Given the case material and TAG Heuer’s traditional price focus, a price that’s 15-20% lower would ...

Bring a Loupe: A Movado Polyplan, An Impossible Rolex 1680, And A Full Set Patek 3970 Hodinkee
Tudor Ranger popped up May 8, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Movado Polyplan, An Impossible Rolex 1680, And A Full Set Patek 3970

William Stafford wrote, "I'd just as soon be pushed by events to where I belong." While I wouldn't claim it is great or wise to have a single line from a single poem weigh too heavily on anyone's life, those dozen words have exerted a monumental pull in my own existence. I'm not by nature much of a planner, and the line offered itself as a little sophisticated rejoinder I could tell myself when confronting my chaotic life, but I also think the wisdom the line offers is useful. And you're sitting there at your computer or on your phone going "Dude, I came here to see watches, not some diatribe about poetry or chaos or whatever," but the line, oddly, has played out in my own life in watches more than anywhere else. If you're familiar with Bring A Loupe as it has existed over the years, you've maybe noticed I include fewer dealer picks than was common in the past, and I am 100% blaming a line from an old poem for that. While I know there's nothing inherently better or worse about buying watches through auctions or dealers, auctions are most interesting to me because of their inherent unpredictability. Over a decade ago, a vintage Tudor Ranger popped up on eBay. It was cheap enough that I wouldn't lose money selling it if I didn't like it, so I bought it. I thought nothing at all of whether I loved the watch, had never had any deep desire for that particular model—it's just what was there, that day. Most of the watches I've fallen hardest for—a '69 Speedmaster on Craigslis...

Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case Fratello
Panerai Pushes Material Science May 3, 2026

Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case

Panerai excels at advancing watchmaking through bold material innovation. Its latest breakthrough introduces the world’s first watch case machined from hafnium. The metal appears here in a 47mm Submersible case. Hafnium ranks among the rarest industrial metals on Earth. Global output measures only a few dozen tons annually. The element exists solely within zirconium ores […] Visit Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case to read the full article.

Ceramic Watches: A Brief History and 15 Top Models from Entry-Level to Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 25, 2026

Ceramic Watches: A Brief History and 15 Top Models from Entry-Level to

Ceramic watches not only offer a host of practical attributes, such as lightness, hardness, scratch-resistance and hypoallergenic properties, but also, increasingly, a very intriguing range of color options as watch manufacturers continue to explore the science of ceramics and refine their own ceramic-making processes. In this article we take a brief look at the history and the technology of ceramics in watchmaking and showcase (in ascending order of price) more than a dozen of the best ceramic watches on the market today. [toc-section heading="Defining Ceramics"] First off, it’s worth clarifying what we’re talking about when we refer to “ceramics” in terms of watchmaking (as opposed to, say, pottery). In scientific terms, a ceramic can be succinctly defined as “an inorganic non-metallic solid made up of either metal or non-metal compounds that have been shaped and then hardened by heating to high temperatures.” While the word “ceramic” comes from a Greek word referring to pottery (keramikós), it has come to be associated with other materials including glass, cement, and what are generally called high-tech or “advanced” ceramics, as in the type used in aerospace, automotive, electronic and other industrial applications, including watchmaking. Whereas pottery and its various subtypes - earthenware, stoneware, porcelain, to name the major ones - all use types of clay as their main ingredient, advanced ceramics utilizes a far more wide-ranging and c...

Cartier Introduces a New Santos in Titanium (and a Cool Steel Reference with Lume) Worn & Wound
Cartier Introduces Oct 13, 2025

Cartier Introduces a New Santos in Titanium (and a Cool Steel Reference with Lume)

When the topic of Cartier comes up, usually it’s in the context of a discussion of their beautiful, design oriented dress watches. We all know what we’re talking about here: shaped cases, precious metals, exotic gem set jewelry pieces. This is Cartier’s stock-in-trade, and watch for watch there’s probably no brand on the planet better at making those kinds of watches. But if you look through Cartier’s history, there are plenty of oddball creations that don’t fit neatly into the dress watch narrative. True sports watches are rare (RIP, Calibre de Cartier divers) but there are many notable releases from recent years that run right up to the edge of a sportier category. The Drive de Cartier (also discontinued) was an explicit attempt to make a “men’s” watch that was quite elegant but also larger and could easily read as more casual. The Cartier Roadster collection is another example of a line that viewed sporty/casual styles through a uniquely Cartier lens. And, of course, the Santos has existed for many years in oversized and complicated variants (not to mention black coated examples) that fit nicely into this niche.  And last week, Cartier announced yet another new Santos that might, in its way, be among Cartier’s sportiest watches ever, thanks to the material used as well as the finish chosen. The new Santos de Cartier in titanium features a bead blasted titanium case and bracelet, and comes in the larger Santos case size, measuring 39.8mm × 9.3mm. Ac...

Business News: Jean-Christophe Babin is CEO of LVMH Watches SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Hublot Mar 28, 2025

Business News: Jean-Christophe Babin is CEO of LVMH Watches

Bulgari’s longtime boss Jean-Christophe Babin has just been appointed named chief executive of LVMH Watches, effective April 1. He succeeds Frédéric Arnault, who was recently named to lead Loro Piana. Mr Babin will lead the watch division in addition to being chief of Bulgari, the Italian jeweller he has led in 2013. With a dozen years at the helm, Mr Babin is one of the longest-serving bosses in luxury. His successor at Bulgari, however, is already in place; Laura Burdese was named deputy chief executive last year. In his new role, Mr Babin will oversee the three brands that make up the watch division: TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Bulgari.