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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator Time+Tide
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator Oct 19, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator

If you’ve been around watches for more than a few years there’s a decent chance you’re familiar with the watch designs of Alain Silberstein. They’re bold, bright and very much of their time - crazy shapes and primary colours that go to show that Bauhaus design is far from boring. It’s minimalism, but in the most … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Editor’s Oct 19, 2019

Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton

Editor’s note: One of my main criteria for a banger watch these days is wearability. Sure, looks are important, but fit reigns supreme. Luckily, the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton delivers on both fronts …  The story in a second:  Contemporary design and classic size make this a winning combination. It’s no secret that the Defy … ContinuedThe post Trick or treat with the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Inaugurates New Headquarters in Biel SJX Watches
Longines Oct 19, 2019

Swatch Inaugurates New Headquarters in Biel

A long snaking building that stretches some 240m, the new Swatch headquarters in Biel, or Bienne in French, is the culmination of five years of work. Selling about 9.5m watches a year for about 450m Swiss francs of revenue, according to Swiss bank Vontobel, Swatch was the foundational company of its parent, the aptly named Swatch Group, which also owns Omega and Longines. Like many of its parent company’s recent projects, the Swatch building was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, the 2014 Pritzker Prize winner who is best known for his works of wood or paper, as well as his temporary structures for humanitarian aid. Its new home is covered in a honeycomb timber grid that incorporates windows, nine balconies and solar panels. Visible from the inside is the Swatch logo, derived from the Swiss cross, incorporated into some of the grid’s cells. And hidden within the structure is a network of wires and cables for telecommunications, electricity and the like. The Swatch headquarters, with the Omega building at the far left The Swatch building ends in La Cite du Temps, which sits in front of the Omega factory and headquarters Shigeru Ban, Nayla Hayek, and Nick Hayek Jr at the opening ceremony on October 3, 2019 The glass-walled Swatch store in front of the new headquarters With the new headquarters in the background Light, flexible and sustainable, the timber beams used for the outer structure number some 4,600, all precisely cut to fit with join with each other per...

Christopher Ward Introduces the Military Collection SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Introduces Oct 18, 2019

Christopher Ward Introduces the Military Collection

Founded in 2004 and selling its watches solely online, Christopher Ward has done some interesting watches at affordable prices, most notably the hand-wound, mono-pusher chronograph of 2017. But its latest is more straightforward: a range of watches inspired by vintage British military-issue timepieces. Unusally, the new models are licensed by the British Ministry of Defence to bear “the insignia of the Royal Navy, British Army and Royal Air Force” for public sale. While not actual military-issue watches, the line draws on well-known watches once supplied to the arms of the British armed forces, with the army and air force models managing to best capture the look of the originals. Christopher Ward, admirably, cites the exact vintage inspiration for each of the new watches, so the new dive watch, for instance, is loosely based on the Omega Seamaster 300 supplied to the Royal Navy. All three new watches have a “glass box” sapphire crystal, and are powered by a COSC-certified Sellita SW200, a robust and cost-efficient automatic movement. Each model is named after the respective training academy for the service arm, starting with the C65 Dartmouth. It’s named after Britannia Royal Naval College, which sits beside the port of Dartmouth in southern England. The case is steel, 41mm, and rated to 150m. According to the brand, it is modelled on the Omega Seamaster 300 “Big Triangle”, a specific type of the dive watch that Omega supplied to the Royal Navy...

Going green with the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM Oct 18, 2019

Going green with the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM

Hublot has just dropped the Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM, once again demonstrating why they are the vanguards of the horological industry when it comes to innovating new materials for wristwatches. The stunningly green case of the new Big Bang MP-11 is hewn from a material that has never been used before in a timepiece’s case … ContinuedThe post Going green with the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: ‘Inside IWC History’ Exhibition in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC History’ Exhibition Oct 18, 2019

Highlights: ‘Inside IWC History’ Exhibition in Singapore

Organised in conjunction with retailer Sincere Fine Watches, Inside IWC History is a walkthrough the milestones of IWC, explained with a series of important watches from the brand’s museum. Happening at the Ngee Ann City mall from now till October 27, the exhibition is the largest to date held by the brand in Southeast Asia, with some 18 watches on show. The watches detail the three key families of IWC – Portuguese, Pilot’s Watches and Portofino – tracing the lineage with landmark watches. From the legendary Mark 11 to the Portugieser ref. 325, the exhibition showcases some of the most iconic vintage IWC watches, but also includes more recent watches, most notably from the Portofino line-up, which is one of the newest creations. The timepieces on show are an instructive guide through which the brand’s current watches can be better understood. The Portofino line-up, including the significant ref. 5251 (centre) The first “special watch for pilots” Wristwatches designed specifically for aviation have defined most of IWC’s 151-year history, and it all began in 1936 with the “special watch for pilots”. Ernst Jakob Homberger, then the managing director of IWC, had two sons who were aviation enthusiasts and licensed pilots, so he decided to produce a watch purpose-built for aviation. Even though it was intended for civil aviation, the watch was notably robust and advanced. Sometimes known as the “Mark IX” by enthusiasts, it had a 37.5mm steel case fitt...

It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Time+Tide
Glashütte Original drop two new takes Oct 18, 2019

It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

It will surprise precisely no one to learn that round watches are the most popular category. But, versatile as the circle is, the round watch can be a bit same-samey. That’s not an issue with this fancy pair of Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Dates, offered in some stylish new dial variations. Before we get … ContinuedThe post It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: anOrdain Model 2 with Hammered, Enamel Dial SJX Watches
anOrdain Oct 17, 2019

Hands-On: anOrdain Model 2 with Hammered, Enamel Dial

Founded in Scotland five years ago by industrial designer Lewis Heath, Anordain is one of the most unusual “microbrands” as it managed to master – straight out of the gate – one of watchmaking’s most prized crafts: vitreous enamel, often known as grand feu enamel in Swiss watchmaking. As a result, the brand manages to offer some of the most affordable watches with fired enamel dials, mostly priced under US$1500. Following the success of the inaugural Model 1 last year, the brand has just unveiled the Model 2, a compact, hand-wound, two-hander with a modern, minimalist design. Most notably, two versions of the watch feature a fired, translucent enamel done over a hammered surface. Like all Anordain’s standard enamel dials, the new hammered, enamel dial is done in-house. Located in Glasgow’s East End, Anordain’s workshop includes its own three-person team of enamellers that can produce eight to nine dials a week, usually in bright, unusual colours such as pink or a translucent bottle green. Design nuances Inspired by classic field watches – the no-nonsense wristwatches made for armies in the first half of the 20th century – the Model 2 was designed entirely in-house, from the case to the typography and hands. And just like vintage field watches that are small by modern standards, the Model 2 measures a discreet 36mm in diameter and 11mm in height. Its balanced proportions are indeed reminiscent of field watches, albeit in a more refined and formal ma...

Corum Introduces the Golden Bridge Round 43 Art Deco SJX Watches
Corum Introduces Oct 17, 2019

Corum Introduces the Golden Bridge Round 43 Art Deco

Invented by pioneering independent watchmaker Vincent Calabrese in 1980 – whose specialty remains intriguing shaped movements – the Golden Bridge has become a Corum signature – a tiny, baguette-shaped movement suspended in watch cases of varying shapes and sizes. Despite being almost 40 years old, the Golden Bridge remains an impressive feat of movement construction, and one that is not as highly regarded as it should be. The latest iteration of the watch is the Golden Bridge Round 43 Art Deco, which installs the Golden Bridge movement in a conventional, round case, but frames it on both sides with sets of brass wires, evoking the cables of suspension bridges. Two versions are available: one with gilded wires and a yellow gold movement, the other with rhodium-plated wires and a matching movement. Mechanically the CO 113 movement is identical to that found in earlier versions. Taking its name literally, the movement has its bridges and main plate in solid 18k gold. It was born out of Mr Calabrese’s original design – which was delicate and finicky – having been reengineered about a decade ago by Laurent Besse, an independent watchmaker who formerly worked for Corum after his own workshop went bust. The case is a large 43mm and made of titanium coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), giving it a glossy black finish. Its size means it loses the delicate elegance of the originals, which were all contained in narrow, rectangular cases, but conversely the round cas...

NEWS: Vacheron Constantin opens first Australian boutique in Melbourne Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin opens first Australian boutique Oct 17, 2019

NEWS: Vacheron Constantin opens first Australian boutique in Melbourne

Vacheron Constantin is one of the grand dames of Genevan watchmaking - tracing their lineage and continuous operation back to 1755, or 260-odd years.  Shortly after Vacheron Constantin’s founding, Captain Cook set sail for Australian shores, claiming it as British sovereign territory in 1770. It took Vacheron Constantin a little longer to make its way … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Vacheron Constantin opens first Australian boutique in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 for $500: Building a great watch collection for less than $2.5K Time+Tide
Oct 17, 2019

5 for $500: Building a great watch collection for less than $2.5K

$2.5K can buy you quite a lot in this world – an economy plane ticket to just about anywhere on the planet, a car that’s probably (definitely) going to have questionable reliability or, if you’re so inclined, a really, really nice bottle of wine. And for us watch enthusiasts out there who already have a … ContinuedThe post 5 for $500: Building a great watch collection for less than $2.5K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials Time+Tide
Oct 17, 2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials

In their upcoming auction, Phillips is focusing their attention on the finest examples of highly coveted double-signed dials. A double-signed dial is where a brand has allowed the name of the retailer that will sell the watch to appear on the dial, alongside the brand’s name. Retailers that have had the opportunity to showcase their … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: René Beyer on Beyer double-signed dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The IWC Mark XVIII Gifted to Employees on the 150th Anniversary SJX Watches
IWC Mark XVIII Gifted Oct 17, 2019

The IWC Mark XVIII Gifted to Employees on the 150th Anniversary

When IWC celebrated its 150th anniversary last year, it unveiled a large line-up of commemorative watches, including the clever and well-priced Tribute to Pallweber digital jump hour (and also opened an expansive new factory). But there was one more anniversary that has been pretty much a company secret until now: the Mark XVIII gifted to staff members at IWC headquarters in Schaffhausen. Over lunch yesterday, I spotted the Mark XVIII on the wrist of IWC museum curator David Seyffer. Given Dr Seyffer’s position – and access to some of the rarest and most desirable IWC watches – I was surprised that he was wearing the entry-level Pilot’s Watch. But when Dr Seyffer handed the watch over, he explained, with an evident amount of pride, this was no ordinary Mark XVIII. On the front, the watch has a 40mm steel case and metallic, dark blue dial that’s similar to a standard watch in the IWC Pilot’s Watch line-up. But on the back, it features the IWC 150th anniversary emblem, and just below that, the name of the employee who received the watch. According to Dr Seyffer, it was chief executive Chris Grainger-Herr’s idea to gift each employee at IWC headquarters a watch as a token of appreciation for their contribution to IWC’s 150 years of success. Male employees were given a Mark XVIII on a black Santoni leather strap, while female staff members were given a Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 on a steel bracelet. The total number produced is unknown, but IWC has about 700...

Breitling Introduces the Revamped Avenger Collection SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Oct 16, 2019

Breitling Introduces the Revamped Avenger Collection

Launched by Breitling almost two decades ago as an upsized, sportier version of the then bestselling Chronomat, the Avenger has just been revamped into a streamlined collection made up of facelifted watches. Still retaining the styling of earlier generations of Avengers, the line is now made up of chronographs in three sizes (48mm, 45mm and 43mm cases), automatics in 45mm or 43mm cases, and a GMT. All models are rated to 300m and have a stainless steel case as standard. But the 45mm and 48mm watches are available in Night Mission livery – the best looking iteration – which means a black-coated titanium case and dial featuring military-inspired “stencil” numerals. Super Avenger Chronograph 48 Night Mission All the chronographs have the same basic specs, and the same COSC-certified Valjoux 7750 movement. The flagship model is the Super Avenger Chronograph 48, an enormous 48mm watch that’s probably too big for most, making the 45mm and 43mm chronographs more viable. The best looking watches of the line is the Avenger Chronograph 45 Night Mission, which manages to have a more modern military style that’s distinct from most other military aviation-type watches. Breitling ambassador and retired astronaut Scott Kelly The Average Automatic 45 Seawolf is a 45mm dive watch, powered by the Breitling Calibre 17, which is an ETA 2824. The specs are shared by the Avenger Automatic 43 that’s 43mm. Avenger Automatic 45 Seawolf And the last model is the Avenger Automati...

Breaking News: SIHH Will Now Become Watches & Wonders Geneva SJX Watches
Breitling also decided Oct 16, 2019

Breaking News: SIHH Will Now Become Watches & Wonders Geneva

From 2020 onwards, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) will be known as Watches & Wonders Geneva, adopting the name of an event that first started in Hong Kong before migrating to Miami in the wake of the slowdown in the Chinese territory. Last year’s shock announcement by industry giant Swatch Group that it would depart Baselworld permanently set up off chain of events: a botched response that led to the resignation of the chief executive of the fair’s organiser MCH Group, and then a full-year loss for MCH. Some prominent brands like Breitling also decided to leave Baselworld, though the giants, like LVMH and Rolex, have opted to stay. Since then Baselworld’s new management has announced a flurry of new initiatives and programmes, starting with Baselworld announcing it would unite with SIHH after a decade’s separation. It’s also revealed an unimpressive hotel deal and more recently, a concierge service for visitors. All of that seems to have compelled the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the organiser of SIHH – a watch fair in healthy condition compared to Baselworld – to do something as well. And so they have, with the goal of making the event more consumer centric. Rebranded but pretty much unchanged Palexpo forever Despite the name change, the format of the event appears pretty much the same. The Salon with its 30 exhibiting brands will take place as it always has, at the Palexpo conventional hall beside Geneva airport, loca...

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph “80 Years Flight to New York” SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Oct 15, 2019

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph “80 Years Flight to New York”

IWC’s latest limited edition is a surprisingly small run – 80 pieces to mark the 80th anniversary of the flight of the giant Latécoère 521 flying boat Lieutenant de Vaisseau Paris from New York to Lac de Biscarrosse in Southwestern France. Starting on Bastille Day, July 14, in 1939, the flight was the first nonstop crossing of the North Atlantic by flying boat. A passenger on the 28-hour, 27-minute journey was French aviator Antoine de Saint Exupéry. And it happens that one of IWC’s most popular sub-collections of pilot’s watches watches is Le Petit Prince, named after the famous novel by de Saint Exupéry. So the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph Edition “80 Years Flight to New York” is an offshoot of the Le Petit Prince collection, with a few tweaks. It retains the vaguely retro flavour, with Gothic-esque numerals and lozenge hands, but instead of the standard blue dial of Le Petit Prince, the anniversary watch has a brown metallic dial, matched with brown ceramic bezel. The edition is based on the Timezoner Chronograph, usually available only in the standard black and white livery of IWC’s basic Pilot’s Watches. It’s an unusual watch that combines both a flyback chronograph and IWC’s proprietary “timezoner” mechanism. Originally developed by the defunct watch brand Vogard, the timezoner mechanism has a rotating world time bezel linked to the second time zone, so turning the bezel moves the 24-hour hand in one-hour ste...

Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Military Oct 15, 2019

Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade

Editor’s note: From a purely real estate perspective, the dial is the most important part of the watch. It’s what you look at most of the time, and it’s the functional heart and soul of the watch. And while I’m willing to admit that other parts of the watch might play a role, let’s roll … ContinuedThe post Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions … Time+Tide
Oct 15, 2019

Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions …

It’s a question we never, ever get tired of asking. What sealed the deal on your watch? What was the straw that broke the camel’s wallet? The way the light melts across the domed box crystal? The price you got from that uncle with a gambling problem? The day you saw it on someone else … ContinuedThe post Want to have your watch story published on Time+Tide? We are open for submissions … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator by Alain Silberstein (With Live Photos) SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Oct 14, 2019

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator by Alain Silberstein (With Live Photos)

Louis Erard has been around for some 90 years, but for much of that time the brand produced watches for other labels. A decade ago, shortly after new owners took over, Louis Erard began to move slightly upmarket with mechanical watches featuring proprietary modules. But most of its designs were plain or derivative. And so Louis Erard could have been just another brand making mostly anonymous looking watches. But recently Louis Erard recruited the talented Manuel Emch – best known for reviving Jaquet Droz and then running RJ-Romain Jerome until 2017 – as an advisor and suddenly things have brightened up – literally. Louis Erard has just announced the Alain Silberstein Regulator, a surprisingly affordable wristwatch created by the watch designer famed for his whimsical, Bauhaus-inspired style – captured here in photos taken by a Swiss collector for SJX (scroll to the bottom to read my thoughts on the watch after seeing them shortly after this was published). Since Mr Silberstein’s eponymous company went bust in 2012, he has created watches for MB&F; and RJ-Romain Jerome. Despite the diversity of the brands he has worked with, Mr Silberstein versatile yet distinctive style manages to ease into each brand’s house style. Illustrating the magic of Mr Silberstein’s creativity, the new watch is based on one of Louis Erard’s signature models, the Excellence Regulator, which is ordinarily available with a grained or guilloche silver dial featuring Roman numera...

RECOMMENDED READING: How independent watchmakers are changing the game Time+Tide
Oct 14, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How independent watchmakers are changing the game

Nicholas Foulkes is an author, journalist and perhaps the closest thing the 21st century has to a genuine flâneur. He’s also deeply entrenched in the finer workings of the finer elements of the Swiss watch industry, so when he writes, it’s worth reading. His latest column in the Financial Times’ excellently titled ‘How to Spend … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How independent watchmakers are changing the game appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.