Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: What We Learned At LVMH Watch Week 2021
Three brands released more than a dozen new watches – and we've got all the details.
Results for The Dirty Dozen
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter
In the third quarter of its financial year – the three months to end-December 2020 – Richemont reported a modest recovery, with sales rising 5% over the same period a year before at constant exchange rates. This modest recovery was enough to moderate its results for the nine months to date, with revenue for the period down 14%, as compared to the drastic 38% plunge in sales for the first half of the year. Owners of over two dozen watch and jewellery brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, the Swiss luxury conglomerate was buoyed by robust demand in Asia, its biggest regional market, as well as the Middle East and Africa. Combined, the two regions make up approximately half of Richemont’s global sales. The Asia Pacific enjoyed a 25% rise in sales, driven largely by exceptional demand in mainland China, where revenue rose an impressive 80% for the period, with sales in Taiwan also seeing a marked 29% increase – both consequence of a return to regular economic activity as the pandemic was brought under control, and the inability to travel and shop overseas. Paradoxically, the results in the Middle East were driven by a revival of tourist spending in Dubai as flights resumed, and domestic spending in Saudi Arabia where citizens cannot easily go abroad. This contributed towards a remarkable 27% increase in sales for the region. Elsewhere, sales too rose, albeit in smaller, single-digit increments. Bolstered by domestic demand, sales in the Americas rose by 3%. Jap...
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Vianney Halter Antiqua - Reprise
For GaryG the wonderful Antiqua by Vianney Halter is a long-term keeper. He fell for the Antiqua when he first saw one more than a dozen years ago; while many of his friends will freely confess that at the time they were at first put off by its looks, Gary was smitten from the start. But that's not all that he loves about this watch. Find out here why he bought it!
Quill & Pad
Diamond-Set Watches: Who Knew Fine Craftsmanship Was So Complicated? - Reprise
Adding a few diamonds to a watch: how hard can that be? As it turns out, stone setting is a lot more difficult than many appreciate. Diamond-setting watches requires the expertise and craftsmanship of about half a dozen highly skilled craftspeople, each a master of their craft.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Husband with Selective Taste Begs Wife, “Please, Please Don’t Buy Me Another Watch”
I mean why own one or two Rolexes when you could have several dozen-” His voice trailed off before reaching back in the box, “...Kenneth Cole Reactions.” Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
SJX Watches
Business News: Richemont Sales Halve in First Quarter of 2020
Just days after the Swatch Group posted dismal half-year results, Richemont reported predictably poor sales for its first quarter, with revenue falling 47% to €1.99 billion compared to a year earlier. Like its rival the Swatch Group, Richemont was hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. The owner of almost two dozen watch and jewellery brands, including Cartier, IWC and Panerai, suffered from widespread store and distribution centre closures, a worldwide halt in tourism, and dampened consumer interest in many of markets, although China was a bright spot. Degrees of resilience The group’s business across the world was affected to varying degrees from region to region, depending on a combination of factors, namely the duration of closures, tourist spending, and spending of the domestic buyers. Although Richemont reported double-digit sales declines across all regions, distribution channels and business areas, the decreases were less pronounced in the Middle East, Africa, and Asia Pacific – the latter benefitted from a 47% year-on-year growth in sales in China, which exited its lockdown earlier than the rest of the world. China’s performance helped keep sales in the Asia Pacific resilient, to a degree. Sales in the region decreased by 29% at actual exchange rates to €277m, declining in all Asian markets, except China. Amongst the hardest hit were Japan and the Americas, where sales dropped 62% and 60% respectively due to widespread closure. The 2020 Cartier Privé Tank...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Meet Mk II Watches
For many in the watchmaking world, the word homage is as dirty as the word quartz. Despite this, I would hazard a guess that most who feel a strong negative association with those words wouldn’t have particularly clear or compelling arguments as to why, simply that they once read it was bad and now it is. … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Meet Mk II Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko
I must have written and rewritten this yarn half a dozen times. Every single moment I think I’ve cracked it, something in watch world happens that completely changes the narrative and content. First, everything got cancelled because of the pandemic we’re all sick of talking about. Then Patek and Rolex said no new watches this … ContinuedThe post James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date ‘Collection Excellence Platine’
Launched in 2006, Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) means a watch from the standard collection that’s been dosed with platinum to create a limited edition. Vacheron Constantin applies the CEP treatment to a model every one or two years, which means even after 14 years, there’s only been a dozen or so CEP editions. The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date Collection Excellence Platine is the latest to join the exclusive club. As is tradition, platinum is employed for nearly every element of the watch: the case, crown, dial, buckle, and the tiny moon phase disc. Even the stitching in the blue alligator strap is made of thread woven from silk and platinum wire. Initial thoughts Ironically, although the CEP edition is the most expensive version of the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date – ordinarily available only with a gold case – it is the most restrained. The new watch has a strongly monochromatic yet harmonious appearance. That, combined with the liberal use of platinum, make it the most contemporary of the variants, while retaining the same traditional and endearing design. In the typical style of CEP, the watch is simple in style and colour, but has details that make it interesting. Even though almost all the external components of the watch are made of the same material, different surface treatments create texture and depth, giving it visual appeal. For example, the smooth, sandblasted surface of the dial and the more granular moon phase disc bearing a m...
SJX Watches
Recommended Reading: John Goldberger on Life, Collecting, and Home
A tall man with a grave face who is always stylishly dressed, Auro Montanari is better known as John Goldberger, the pseudonym under which he has published over a dozen scholarly books dedicated to watches. Auro is best characterised as someone with diverse and deep interests, making him a truly interesting individual. So speaking with Auro is always a pleasure, which is something Phillips specialist Tiffany To recently managed to do. At home, stylishly. Photo – Auro Montanari Now at home in Bologna, a wealthy industrial hub that’s home to Lamborghini, Auro is putting the finishing touches to Time to Race, a near-500 page tome covering the watches worn by auto-racing champions of the mid-20th century, an era when drivers wore watches as a necessity, and not because they were brand ambassadors. Auro’s desktop with Time to Race in progress. Photo – Auro Montanari Highlights from Time to Race. Photo – Auro Montanari In a three-part interview, Auro discusses the upcoming book – “I love cars, I love watches, and I put them together and blend everything” – as well as his varied life. Though Auro is a industrial-control software entrepreneur by profession, his interests have taken him around the world in a hunt for watches, and he also lived the Californian dream for a spell in the 1980s. Auro, circa 1982. Photo – Auro Montanari The white gold ref. 3450. Photo – Auro Montanari He describes the years spent in Venice Beach, during which he chanced upon a whi...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising?
If you love watches, you probably want to wear them all the time. The past CEO of The Swatch Group Nicolas Hayek was famous for wearing half-a-dozen watches at one time, and even if you aren’t quite that eccentric, you might still feel like you’re missing something when you don’t wear a watch. But this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Should you wear a watch when exercising? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #101 Guilty Pleasure Watches Pt. 3
Kaz and Mike share their dirty fantasies in this latest installment of Guilty Pleasure Watches. Things get filthy and the guys also share some new stuff coming out on the site. Keep an eye out!
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel - is it a steal?
Let’s get this out of the way early on. Does the Girard-Perregaux Laureato share some visual similarities with other well-known luxury steel sports watches? Sure, but we can easily think of half a dozen watches that fit that particular bill. AP and Patek don’t have a monopoly on ’70s design. And make no mistake, the Laureato … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel – is it a steal? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Rado Takes Center Court, Launches New HyperChrome Match Point
Rado’s relationship with tennis reaches back decades. Today, the brand is the official timekeeper for a dozen top professional tournaments played in major cities around the world. The U.S. stop is also one of the most glamorous tournaments on the ATP circuit: the Miami Open. Played at the Crandon Park Tennis Centre in beautiful Key […]
Revolution
Watch Cases! - Perfect Storage for Watch Collectors.
Collecting watches is one thing, but storing them safely is something else. It actually does’nt matter if it’s a collection of three four watches or a dozen, we’re taking about, there comes a moment that they need a better place than the drawer of a nightstand, or in a cardboard box when travelling. Nowadays there […]
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Six Classy Dress Watches, With A Twist
The classic dress watch segment is home to some of the most iconic and enduring watches in history, yet there are plenty of new and very desirable pieces making the rounds. If you dare to tread outside the beaten path a bit, that is. Over the past couple of years, the dress watch category has […]
Time+Tide
Seiko freshens up its Seiko 5 field GMT with two new colours
When considering a highly functional, reliable, no-nonsense timepiece that doesn’t break the bank, Seiko 5 undoubtedly comes to mind. Seiko also changed the game for affordable complications when it released the Seiko 5 GMT in 2022, making mechanical dual-time watches accessible to a whole new audience. Seiko’s first foray into this territory took the form of the … Continued
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This Timex Chronograph Makes Expensive Swiss Watches Harder to Explain
The Timex Marlin Neo Classic Chronograph reaches into vintage chrono design with a busy dial, navigational scales, and plenty of character.
Worn & Wound
Celebrating a New Home for Watch Enthusiasts in Eastern Montana with Citizen Watch America and Riddle’s Jewelers
Last week, Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America headed west to Billings, Montana, for an evening of watches, conversation, and a little bit of Windup Watch Fair previewing at Riddle’s Jewelry’s Shiloh location. Following our enthusiast night in Salt Lake, the Billings event was another chance to bring the Windup experience to a community that doesn’t always get the opportunity to see this kind of collection of watches in person. But more than anything, the evening was about establishing Riddle’s Jewelers as a welcoming home for watch enthusiasts in Eastern Montana—and kicking off what we hope becomes a new tradition of getting together, talking watches, and, naturally, buying a few new timepieces along the way. The evening welcomed local enthusiasts, longtime collectors, curious newcomers, and Riddle’s clientele, all with one thing in common: an appreciation for a good watch and an excuse to talk about them. With food and drinks on hand, the evening had the easygoing feel we love about enthusiast gatherings. Watches came off wrists, new ones went on, and conversations bounced from movements and materials to personal favorites and the watches everyone had been quietly keeping an eye on. Of course, there was plenty to get excited about on the watch front. The collection included standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina, including several watches that aren’t exactly easy to find sitting in a display case. And our new ...
WristBuzz
Grönefeld 1941 Quadrivium: Bart and Tim Combine Their Four Greatest Hits Into One Movement
The Dutch brothers unite the remontoire, tourbillon, and signature design cues from their most celebrated references into a single tour de force
WatchAdvice
Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar Ushers In A New Era
I take the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar hands-on to discover how the Maison has combined an ultra-thin complication with its first integrated bracelet design! What We Love: Impressively slim perpetual calendar architecture Beautifully executed integrated bracelet design Excellent proportions to suit a range of wrist sizes What We Don’t: Pink gold and toffee dial lack contrast Calendar adjustments still require a corrector No factory strap alternative currently offered Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.7/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a bold new direction for its Master Control collection with the introduction of the Master Control Chronomètre family. This new collection brings an integrated bracelet to the Maison for the very first time, while taking the traditional elegance of the Master Control and presenting it through a more contemporary design. Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On) Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Date and Master Control Chronomètre Date Power Reserve Reviews! The Master Control Chronomètre family introduces three new models: the Chronomètre Date, the Chronomètre Date Power Reserve and, lastly, the most complicated of the three, the Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar. Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Master ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tissot Made An Affordable PRX Chronograph I Didn’t Expect to Prefer
Tissot adds a quartz chronograph to the PRX lineup with a thinner case and a design that makes plenty of sense for the collection.
Time+Tide
Does a balloon dog watch sound like fiction? Hublot and Jeff Koons made it a reality
The new Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons Limited Editions fuse an iconic work of art with an iconic watch design.
SJX Watches
Singer Reimagines 1970s-Style Sports Watch
Having formed its brand identity with a cushion-shaped case inspired by 1970s designs, Singer Reimagined is now turning to another facet of that decade’s designs. The 1970 Dualtrack is angular with tall bezel and semi-integrated bracelet, marking an entirely new design language for the brand, which is an offshoot of cult “restomod” automaker Singer Vehicle Design. Like the earlier version of the model, the 1970 Dualtrack is a twin time zone watch with a “caller” GMT indicated via a 24-hour ring. It’s powered by an unusual movement with four spaced out barrels that combine for a six day power reserve. Initial thoughts The 1970 is a natural extension of Singer’s retro style that’s conceptually logical, but also appealing in terms of product. The new case design is wearable and also different enough from the cushion-shaped case to make it distinct. If anything, the 1970 might be too ordinary, making it less recognisable as a Singer creation. That said, the design is thoughtful. The attention to the detail in the design reflects Singer founder Marco Borracino’s background as a designer. The angular case has polished, chamfered edges that continue into the bracelet, while the polished bezel has high, fluted sides. It’s clearly inspired by the 1970s, but executed to a higher level than actual 1970s watches in this style that tended to be entry-level timepieces. And compared to the cushion-shaped cases that defined Singer until now, the new 1970 case is more c...
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Perpetual Padellone Review: An All-New Annual Calendar Moonphase
Modeled after the famed 1950s Padellone ref. 8171, this complete instantaneous annual calendar brings that design into the 21st century. More
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger
With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority. Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches. We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D; is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker secretly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Star Stripped Down Their Latest Automatic Watch, and I Think It Works
The Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand strips away the date and power reserve for a cleaner design built around a new F7542 automatic movement.
Quill & Pad
Hong Kong: It’s All About Energy
Trade fairs remain a powerful tool for commerce in many industries, especially when it comes to fashion of all kinds, including watches. Not all fairs are alike; each has its own personality, often reflective of the local ecosystem.
Time+Tide
A round-up from Geneva Watch Days
It was an action-packed week in Geneva, and there was a lot to unpack from the second trade show of the year.
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera
TAG Heuer has just unveiled the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, staying true to the model’s DNA, but in a more beefed-up fashion! What We Love The classic Carrera case shape is still immediately recognisable The move to 42mm makes the Carrera Sport much more wearable than the previous generation The green dial and silver dial variants look particularly good in person What We Don’t At 42mm, it is still a reasonably substantial watch The more robust design won’t have the same versatility as the 39mm Carrera Glass Box The blue dial and black dial models are not as eye-catching Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera has never really needed an introduction. It has been one of the defining chronographs in the TAG Heuer collection since Jack Heuer introduced it in 1963, and over the years I’ve had the chance to wear and review plenty of different versions. Now, with the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, (just in time for the Madrid Grand Prix, as TAG Heuer is the race sponsor, I might add), TAG Heuer has taken the familiar Carrera formula and given it a little more presence, a sportier feel and, importantly, some better proportions. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport models As you may imagine, this is not my first time wearing a TAG Heuer Carrera. I’ve reviewed plenty of Carreras over the years, from the revamped Glass Box models introduced in 2023 through to the Rose Gold Carrera ...