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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Introducing: Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition Hodinkee
Ming Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition

What We Know Gerald Charles, known for their Maestro cases, continues to evolve that idea at this year's Geneva Watch Days, but this is the first time they've offered something where every piece is genuinely unique. It's based on a Gérald Genta design from 2007 called the Sarawak, a diamond-and-ruby integrated-bracelet watch created for the Royal family of Sarawak—unknown to the public until 2024—and the direct ancestor of the Masterlink. It's impressive to see the brand continue to iterate on Genta's own designs, decades on. The case looks familiar—it's a classic Maestro, coming in as a square at 38mm x 38mm. The svelte dimensions continue inside: a profile just 7.99mm thin, aided by the 2.67mm movement. There are three colorways here—Golden Rose, Rhodium, and Golden Yellow. The dial is clearly the focal point here, bringing a new element to the Masterlink lineup. Each dial is individually hand-hammered by an artisan at Gerald Charles's atelier in Geneva. It's made of maillechort—also known as German silver or nickel silver, a copper-nickel-zinc alloy — and is typically used for movement bridges and plates rather than dials.  It wasn't chosen because it's easy to work with—quite the opposite: it requires longer production times, wears tools faster, and results in a higher rejection rate. Since each dial is hammered by hand, no two are identical, and there are no applied indexes here, leaving the hundreds of small facets in full view. Inside is the ultra-th...

Introducing: Bulgari's Unexpected Dual Time Octo Finissimo With Vianney Halter, Plus A "Dazzle" Camo Release Hodinkee
Bulgari s Unexpected Dual Time Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: Bulgari's Unexpected Dual Time Octo Finissimo With Vianney Halter, Plus A "Dazzle" Camo Release

What We Know While I hate to repeat myself, I will yet again call something "the most surprising collaboration." I mean, it feels warranted, especially when I say that not only have the minds at Bulgari handed over the reins to collaborate with an independent watchmaker for the first time ever, but they've done so with a maximalist mind that contrasts with Bulgari's measured take on design. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual x Vianney Halter. What a world. And not only that, but Bulgari allowed Halter to take an Octo Finissimo movement and work with the brand to create modules to complement the Jules Vernian steampunk design. The new movement, the BVF 200, is based on the BVL 138 and has an automatic microrotor winding system, but with modules to add a dual-time/GMT function, Day/Night indicator, and a large, rotating date. At the top right, you have the main time zone. Bottom left has another window for the GMT time (ostensibly set forward and backward with pushers on the left-hand case side, like a Patek travel time watch), a day/night indicator at the bottom right (capped by Vianney Halter's name), and a giant aperture with a date disc, highlighting the date with a small fork. All of these functions are in porthole-style apertures like those found on Halter's Antiqua. The movement runs at 3Hz and has a 60-hour power reserve. From the side, the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter is noticeably thicker than previous models. That's not hard to do, since the Chronograph ...

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese SJX Watches
Blancpain Sep 1, 2026

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese

For it’s third M.A.D. Edition, MB&F; has reimagined Vincent Calabrese’s signature jumping hours complication. While still allocated via raffle, the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese represents a significant departure for MB&F;’s entry level sub-brand, being the first to fully conceal the winding rotor and the first to be based on a historical design from a notable watchmaker. Initial thoughts Vincent Calabrese is a pioneering independent watchmaker who co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) alongside Svend Andersen in 1985. Mr Calabrese is perhaps most well known for developing highly original movements for other brands including the Corum Golden Bridge and the first-ever flying tourbillon wristwatch movement for Blancpain in 1989. But Mr Calabrese also produced watches under his own name, including the Baladin that served as the inspiration for M.A.D.3. Maximilian Büsser and Mr Calabrese have been friends for years and discussed collaborating on a watch project many times, but the M.A.D.3 is their first joint effort. The M.A.D.3 is affordable as such things go, at CHF2,900. That’s roughly equivalent to where original Baladins trade on the secondary market, depending on the specifics. But the M.A.D.3 is a worthy remake in a more contemporary size and should prove more reliable and easier to service when the time comes. For better or worse, the solid value proposition almost dictates a mechanism to manage demand, so buying a M.A.D.3 isn’t a...

Hands-On With Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase: A Complicated Classic, Refined WatchAdvice
Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase Aug 28, 2026

Hands-On With Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase: A Complicated Classic, Refined

I’ve had the chance to take the newly redesigned Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase for review to see how the subtle refinements elevate this complicated favourite! What We Love Refined, less cluttered dial design Exceptional complications for the price Beautifully matched blue leather strap What We Don’t Limited 30m water resistance Substantial thickness for smaller wrists Busy display may not be to everyone’s liking. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 There are few watches that bring together Longines’ classical design language and mechanical expertise as completely as the Master Collection Chrono Moonphase. This is one of my favourite Longines models, and I have finally had the opportunity to review the latest evolution of one of the brand’s most iconic timepieces. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Longines first introduced the Master Collection in 2005 to showcase its traditional watchmaking expertise through an entirely mechanical collection. It was created as a meeting point between the brand’s classical elegance and its ability to produce increasingly complicated mechanical timepieces. This distinguished the Master Collection from Longines’ sportier models through its more traditional dial designs, decorative finishing, and mechanical complications. The 1911 Longines pocket watch serves as the inspiration behind the aesthetics of the Chr...

Anordain’s New Model 1 Combines Porcelain Dial and Custom Font SJX Watches
Breguet style reflecting Aug 27, 2026

Anordain’s New Model 1 Combines Porcelain Dial and Custom Font

Best known for its affordable watches with fired enamel dials, Anordain is diversifying its offerings with the Model 1 Porcelain. Sporting a traditional porcelain dial, the new Model 1 showcases a brand-new, custom font that’s a twist on the traditional Breguet style, reflecting the brand’s focus on the finer details of design. Beyond a new design direction for the Scotland-based Anordain, the Model 1 is also represents a scaling up of its business. While the porcelain dial is made the old fashion way – painted by hand with a clay-based mixture – it can be produced at a higher rate than Anordain’s enamel dials, making the new Model 1 accessible both in terms of price and availability. Initial thoughts The Model 1 Porcelain is interesting from a business perspective. It underlines Anordain’s growth, as well as the brand’s strategy for dealing with its growth. Scaling up production sizeably while still preserving its speciality of traditional, artisanal-type dials is a prudent approach that maintains the brand’s identity. The Model 1 Porcelain, however, is not an industrial product. Rather, it retains the quirky character typical of Anordain’s watches. The watch is still typical Anordain with its clean design and thoughtful details. The dial and typography are appealing, especially with accents like the five-minute numerals and railway-like minute scale. The seemingly mismatched hands leave me with mixed feelings, but the whole is still attractive. The opti...

Reinvented Royter Debuts Hand-Engraved Nova SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable Aug 25, 2026

Reinvented Royter Debuts Hand-Engraved Nova

Brooklyn-based independent watchmaker Dan Royter takes a new direction with the Legacy Series Nova Edition, entirely unlike his past portfolio of chronographs. The first entry in the brand’s new chapter combines a hand-engraved, burgundy lacquered silver dial with a high-end movement from Andreas Strehler in a mid-sized steel case. The Nova is an enormous step up for the budding American independent in terms of design, decoration, and price. Initial thoughts The impressive artistry of the Nova is surprising given Royter’s humble roots building white-label ETA 7750-powered chronographs, before exploring more ambitious dials with an emphasis on customisation. For a one-man operation, the launch of the Nova seemingly means the end for the DR-02 chronograph. Until recently, Royter was the DR-02 and the DR-02 was Royter. Much of the recent explosion of independent watchmaking has concentrated on this genre of three-hand watches with finely decorated movements and artful dials, or, as is increasingly common, exposed movements. However, the sudden flood of new entrants to this once (nearly) non-existent segment hasn’t resulted in a supply glut. Rather, demand from collectors has grown far faster, making watches from blue-chip brands like Dufour, Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable and raising the floor for less-established brands. Royter signs his work in the manner you’d expect of a master engraver. The point of this preamble is to explain, not justify, why the ...

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince Review: Two Materials, Two Personalities WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Aug 21, 2026

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince Review: Two Materials, Two Personalities

I take IWC’s latest Le Petit Prince chronographs for a hands-on review to discover how two materials completely transform the same design. What We Love Eye-catching white ceramic case and deep-blue dial contrast Ceramic model is lightweight and comfortable to wear, despite its substantial dimensions Two distinct personalities across ceramic and steel What We Don’t Full white ceramic edition lacks everyday versatility Both models are still relatively thick on the wrist 46 hour power reserve is modest by modern watchmaking standards. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.7/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 To mark 20 years of its collaboration with the heirs of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, IWC expands its Le Petit Prince lineup with new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph editions in stainless steel and white ceramic. This was one of IWC’s main themes for Watches & Wonders 2026, with a wide range of models carrying the signature Le Petit Prince design. There are few collections as closely connected to IWC’s modern identity as the Pilot’s Watch, which carries a design inspired by the functional appearance of cockpit instrumentation. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph then combines this aviation-inspired design with one of IWC’s best-known mechanical strengths in watchmaking: chronographs. IWC Schaffhausen’s connection to the story of Le Petit Prince began in 2006, when the Swiss watchmaker started collaborating with the descendants of Fren...

Introducing: Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue" Hodinkee
Czapek Promenade Transparencies Aqua Blue Aug 20, 2026

Introducing: Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue"

What We Know Today, Czapek has lifted the curtain on a new limited-edition addition to its Promenade line of everyday dress watches. The Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue" expands on a design motif first introduced with the Fratello x Czapek Promenade Transparencies "Veridian Green," this time applying the Transparency concept to a wholly in-house-devised model. Here, the "Veridian Green" sapphire-gradient dial has been swapped for a similar "Aqua Blue" variant, with the fumé effect achieved through a special metallization process in which small dots of metallic coating are applied to a sapphire disc. The dots themselves — which measure just eight microns each — are laid out in varying density to achieve the gradient effect, which radiates out from the small seconds subdial at 4:30. Unlike the Fratello limited edition, which had applied markers, the Promenade Transparencies "Aqua Blue" uses light blue 3D Super-LumiNova markers, which match the lume on the handset. Visible through the translucent dial is the SXH7, a skeletonized take on Czapek's in-house SXH5 micro-rotor automatic caliber. The SXH5 was first launched by the brand in 2020, and now finds itself at the heart of a number of watches in the Czapek lineup, including the Antarctique and, as the SXH5.1, in the solid dial Promenade. The SXH7, which is visible from both directions, is handsome, with plenty of modern, somewhat industrial touches (like sandblasted plates) and enough handcraft to keep tradi...

Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Les Opus Aug 18, 2026

Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus

The many shapes of Cartier were on full display at Cartier during Watches & Wonders, where the brand released the Privé Les Opus, a trio of platinum models with burgundy accents to mark the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Privé collection. The Crash Squelette is the only all-new model — with a new open-worked calibre — and the only limited edition. The Tank Normale and Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir tread little new ground, but the platinum-and-burgundy livery is easy to like, and manages to be both distinctive and discreet. Initial thoughts Cartier occupies an enviable position in the luxury watch landscape, being the only brand among the top 10 luxury watchmakers (by revenue) with a sizable jewellery business. Perhaps for this reason, it’s also the only brand to achieve this level of success primarily on the basis of design, rather than technical innovation or haute horlogerie complications. The Opus trio proves why. Cartier earned its reputation as the “watchmaker of shapes” over more than a century, and today enjoys a rich back catalogue of designs. The three models chosen to represent the 10th anniversary of the brand’s high-end Privé line — the Tank Normale, the Crash, and the Tortue Monopoussoir — are among the fan favourites. The Tank Normale — especially on this bracelet — is one of my favourite Cartier models, offering a truly vintage look with modern build quality. Reflecting Cartier’s growth as an industrial watchmaker, each watch...

Upcoming Casio MTP-E740 Series: Specs, Price, and Why It’s a £85 Steal WatchRider
Seiko Time Sonar Casio has Aug 16, 2026

Upcoming Casio MTP-E740 Series: Specs, Price, and Why It’s a £85 Steal

The upcoming Casio MTP-E740-4AV and MTP-E740-2A1V are vintage-inspired watches launching soon for just £85. Proving that budget-friendly watches don’t have to be boring, these new releases feature a stunning see-through dial design that punches well above its price bracket. A Striking Translucent Dial Design The standout feature of the new MTP-E740 series is undoubtedly its dial. Drawing heavy inspiration from the classic 1970s Seiko Time Sonar, Casio has incorporated a transparent face that reveals the mechanical day and date wheels underneath.   Usually, entry-level Casio day-date models hide this calendar mechanism behind a solid face. By exposing it, Casio gives these models a playful, layered, and premium look that is rarely seen at this price point.   The Standout Models: Orange and Navy While the collection features several colors, two models steal the show:  MTP-E740-4AV (Orange):   if you want a watch that immediately catches the eye, the MTP-E740-4AV is the undisputed star of the collection. The bright orange colorway perfectly complements the retro-futuristic transparent dial, giving the watch a summery, high-energy feel. Orange dials have historically been associated with dive watches and motorsport chronographs, but putting it on an everyday stainless steel piece gives it a remarkably fresh vibe.  The bright, vibrant orange dial is an absolute head-turner. It provides a bold contrast against the stainless steel case and makes the exposed cal...

Timex Automatic E Line Grows to 38mm With Three New Integrated-Bracelet Models WatchRider
Timex Automatic E Line Grows Aug 15, 2026

Timex Automatic E Line Grows to 38mm With Three New Integrated-Bracelet Models

Timex has introduced a larger 38mm version of the Automatic E Line, turning the compact design that returned in 2024 into a more substantial watch with an integrated-bracelet appearance. The new range includes the silver TW6A00500, the two-tone TW6A00600 and the teal TW6A00700. All three share the same case dimensions, Japanese automatic movement, horizontally textured dial and date display. The teal TW6A00700 brings the strongest colour to the new 38mm Automatic E Line. This is not the first modern E Line. Timex revived the design as the Automatic 1983 E Line Reissue with a 34mm rounded-square case. That watch followed the size and simple character of the original more closely. The 38mm models keep the familiar TV-shaped outline but move the collection in a more modern direction. They are larger, thicker and fitted with a conventional butterfly clasp instead of the tool-free expansion band used by the smaller version. A 1983 Timex design in a much larger case The E Line name reaches back to a Timex watch from 1983. Its rounded-square case became known as a TV dial shape. The E Line name was connected to New York’s E subway line, which carried commuters toward Manhattan’s business district. The modern 34mm reissue brought that idea back in November 2024 with a stainless-steel case, an acrylic crystal and a Japanese automatic movement. The new watch is better described as a larger update inspired by that reissue rather than a strict recreation. Its 38mm stainless-steel ...

CASIO A100WE: A Retro Digital Watch Under $100 WatchRider
Casio A100WE Aug 10, 2026

CASIO A100WE: A Retro Digital Watch Under $100

If you are looking for a digital watch that combines vintage aesthetics with everyday practicality, the Casio A100WE series is one of the most interesting options on the market. Released as a modern tribute to a very specific piece of Casio history, the A100 line stands out because of its unique front-button layout and retro-futuristic case design. Whether you are a seasoned watch collector or someone who simply wants a reliable timepiece, the A100WE series offers variety, comfort, and affordability. In this comprehensive guide, we will break down the history of this design, review every color and model available, highlight the standout green resin model, and explain all the technical features you need to know. The History Behind the Design: The F-100 Legacy To understand the Casio A100WE, you have to look back to 1978. That year, Casio released the F-100. It was a notable release because it was the first Casio watch to feature a case made entirely of resin, making it incredibly lightweight and affordable. However, the F-100 is best remembered today for its appearance in pop culture. A modified version of the Casio F-100 was worn by the character Ellen Ripley (played by Sigourney Weaver) in the 1979 science fiction movie Alien. The F-100 was eventually discontinued, making original models rare and highly sought after by collectors. Decades later, Casio introduced the A100WE series. This modern reissue keeps the exact case shape and front-button layout of the original F-100...

Introducing: Unimatic UT1-PD Hodinkee
Unimatic UT1-PD What We Know Aug 7, 2026

Introducing: Unimatic UT1-PD

What We Know It's been two years since Unimatic announced their "Toolwatch" collection, and it's possible that you may have forgotten about it. Like all Unimatics, the watches have a strict design language that can make releases blend together. Small tweaks, like today's release of the UT1-PD (Prodiver, in their terms), might look like something you thought existed before, but this is very much a new watch. So what makes the Toolwatch line, and what makes this limited release of 250 pieces different? The UT1-PD has a sandblasted stainless steel case with a 40mm diameter (41.5mm including bezel overhang), 13.6mm thickness (13.3mm without the crystal), and a 49mm lug-to-lug. This is designed as a strict dive watch, meeting all your needs, with a unidirectional 120-click rotating bezel, 300m water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a reliable Seiko VH31A quartz movement. Yes, we love mechanical watches, but quartz does the trick for many needs.  The matte dial has white printing with round, triangular, and rectangular hour markers (unlike the previous version, which had Arabic hour markers), and the watch features Super-LumiNova C1 on the hour markers, hour and minute hands, and bezel pip. There are also drilled lug holes, and the watch comes with a black TPU two-piece strap. But the core of Unimatic's Toolwatch line is that the watches meet the U.S. Department of Defense MIL-STD-810H specs, which outline a range of environmental tests to evaluate the durability, ruggedness...

Timex 1976 Lexington Reissue Inspired Is a Sharp $149 Steel Cartier Tank Alternative WatchRider
Cartier Tank Alternative Timex has Aug 6, 2026

Timex 1976 Lexington Reissue Inspired Is a Sharp $149 Steel Cartier Tank Alternative

Timex has taken the 1976 Lexington Reissue Inspired in the direction I wanted most: away from gold tone and into polished steel. The new TW2Y88200 keeps the compact rectangular shape, vertically brushed silver dial and Roman numerals of the earlier model, then adds metallic blue hands for a little contrast. It is currently listed as a $149 pre-order in the United States, which puts it firmly in the part of the market where a good design matters more than a prestigious logo. A rectangular watch with the right instincts I am a fan of rectangular watches because they make even a simple time-only watch feel considered. A round case can hide lazy proportions. A rectangle cannot. Every line is visible: the width, the length, the dial margins, the shape of the numerals and the relationship between case and strap. That is why the Cartier Tank remains such a powerful reference point, and why an affordable watch needs more than Roman numerals to feel convincing. Timex’s silver dial, blue hands and Roman numerals look clean. This Timex is not trying to be a counterfeit Tank. It earns its place as a nice alternative because it uses the same broad language of a slim rectangular case, an orderly dial and a leather strap, then keeps a personality of its own. If you enjoy this corner of watch design, I have also ranked the Cartier Tank alternatives that have stayed in my collection. The Lexington belongs in that conversation because it offers a clean steel option at a price that makes o...

TAG Heuer’s Latest Carrera Taps Team Ikuzawa SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Latest Carrera Taps Aug 4, 2026

TAG Heuer’s Latest Carrera Taps Team Ikuzawa

Following TAG Heuer’s first collaboration with Japanese racing squad Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Department in 2023, the trio has returned for a second lap with the limited edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, bringing the red-and-white livery of the racing legend to the popular “glassbox” format for the first time. Initial thoughts Unlike many other legacy Swiss watch brands, TAG Heuer has demonstrated an ability to reach beyond traditional design influences to infuse its watches with a diverse range of elements from contemporary fashion. Last year’s Fujiwara streetwear collab is a prime example. With racing being so strongly linked to TAG Heuer’s history and brand identity, the collaboration with Ikuzawa is conceptually very fitting and extends the brand’s reach beyond the starting grid, deeper into motorsport culture. The Carrera Ikuzawa gets the mid-sized 39 mm ‘glassbox’ case, which is just under 14 mm thick. The case takes its name from its dramatically domed crystal, which encompasses the raised dial flange underneath, in place of a traditional bezel. Despite numerous vintage design cues, the Carrera Ikuzawa doesn’t look or feel like a vintage watch or vintage reissue. The clous de Paris dial texture and the depth of the ‘glassbox’ construction help it maintain its contemporary look. A Chrono-first dial With so much in common with the standard Carrera, much of the difference is down to the dial, which blends design cues from...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Vs. Mido Ocean Star 200 Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Aug 2, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Vs. Mido Ocean Star 200

On this summery Sunday morning, we dive into a Swatch Group battle. This week, we picked two dive watches from popular Swatch Group brands to determine which you prefer. Daan will back the revamped Khaki Navy Scuba Auto that Hamilton unveiled recently. The brand updated the dial design with new indexes and a wave pattern […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto Vs. Mido Ocean Star 200 to read the full article.

Bring a Loupe: A Wittnauer 235T, A Cleto Munari "Sotsy," A Blancpain Technisub, And An Eberhard Contograf Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Day Date Moonphase almost Jul 31, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Wittnauer 235T, A Cleto Munari "Sotsy," A Blancpain Technisub, And An Eberhard Contograf

You hanging in there, Baller? It feels like it's been a hard bit, or at least it is with the folks I check in with. I hope that, despite whatever's frustrating you and causing grief—from stubbed toes to wildfires and their attendant smoke to your team not making enough moves at the trade deadline—you're getting by. And congrats, obviously, to all the Sixers fans. Strays Photo courtesy of Huntington Company. Perhaps, like me, you were unaware that in 1967 Bulova made an Accutron Astronaut in 18k gold, and if that sounds like fun, Goodwill's got one that's on an 18k JP Champion bracelet to boot. The good folks at Huntington Company have a bit of a left of the dial watch this week, this Sarcar triple date with moonphase, and a fun game to play is to imagine what it'd be priced at with a different name on the dial. If you're bored by watches that are too quiet, or you're interested in truly unhinged complications, here's a Boegli which features a music box that plays a bit of Mozart's "The Magic Flute." For those who missed their shot on the Louis Erard x Kudoke Regulator from a few years ago, here's a very very nice blue one, and if you'd prefer a different blue watch, this Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust is almost certainly not from 2005, as the listing says (it's got a tritium dial, for one, plus the reference 17000 ceased production in 2001), but it certainly looks in great shape. Finally, here's a phenomenally pretty gold Audemars Piguet Day Date Moonphase (almost certain...

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera in Partnership with Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Jul 31, 2026

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera in Partnership with Team Ikuzawa and Bamford

TAG Heuer has released a new three-way collaboration and a sequel of sorts in their new Carrera Chronograph made in partnership with Team Ikuzawa with a design assist from Bamford. Team Ikuzawa is a legendary Japanese motorsport team founded by driver Tetsu Ikuzawa and continues today under the stewardship of his daughter Mai Ikuzawa as an all encompassing motorsport, design, fashion, and luxury brand. And Bamford is, of course, Bamford, founded by George Bamford and well known for being a pioneer in high end luxury watch modding and now making watches under their own name, and frequently collaborating as a design partner for the likes of G-SHOCK, Zenith, and countless others.  The new Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa release seen here follows a 2023 Carrera release with a similar look, but offered on the prior Carrera platform. Here, all parties involved benefit from the new Glassbox case design, which includes a 39mm case and a gorgeous vintage style “glassbox” crystal that accentuates and magnifies the dial’s perimeter and offers a ton of visual interest at odd angles. We’ve covered these watches pretty extensively and are big fans of the case proportions and the approach TAG Heuer is taking here. They seem to please both the mass market and the enthusiast crowd, which is a vanishingly rare trick for a large brand like TAG Heuer to pull off.  For this release, TAG, Team Ikuzawa, and Bamford have leaned into the red and white colorway most associated with the...

Introducing - Mido’s Multifort 8 One Crown is Back in Black PVD Monochrome
Mido s Multifort 8 One Jul 31, 2026

Introducing - Mido’s Multifort 8 One Crown is Back in Black PVD

Founded in Switzerland in 1918 by George Schaeren, Mido is currently positioned as an entry-to-mid-level Swatch Group brand, prized for offering exceptional value and robust build quality. Placing more emphasis on bolder design, Mido has sparked interest for its accomplished remakes of golden oldies like the Multifort TV Big Date and the Decompression Timer and […]

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa Returns as a 39mm Glassbox Limited Edition WatchRider
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Jul 30, 2026

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa Returns as a 39mm Glassbox Limited Edition

TAG Heuer, Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Department have reunited for a second watch, but this is much more than a new colour for the 2023 collaboration. Launched on 30 July 2026, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa uses the 39mm Carrera Glassbox case and takes its dial design from the Roadmaster stopwatches used in Japanese motorsport during the 1970s and 1980s. The new reference CBS221M.EB0435 is limited to 150 individually numbered pieces worldwide. Its white-and-red design is easy to recognise, but the smaller case, textured dial, revised movement and unusual presentation set make this a distinctly different watch from its predecessor. All images are courtesy of TAG Heuer. The new 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa. Image: TAG Heuer. A second chapter, not a reissue Team Ikuzawa was founded by Tetsu Ikuzawa, one of the most important Japanese racing drivers of his generation. His career included the Japanese Grand Prix, Formula 3, Formula 2, Le Mans and work as a Porsche factory driver. The team became closely linked with a clean red-and-white identity that remains central to the brand today. His daughter, Mai Ikuzawa, has carried that history into a wider creative business covering cars, fashion, photography and design. George Bamford and Bamford Watch Department complete the collaboration, helping translate the graphics of old racing equipment into a modern Carrera. Tetsu Ikuzawa with cars and photographs from his racing career. Image:...

Business News: Independent Watch Retailer Collective Horology Sues Trump And Administration Over New Tariffs Hodinkee
Armin Strom Czapek Fears U.S.-based J.N Jul 29, 2026

Business News: Independent Watch Retailer Collective Horology Sues Trump And Administration Over New Tariffs

Independent watch retailer Collective Horology LLC filed legal action against President Donald Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer, and a host of other government officials and departments, alleging the administration's new tariff duties are "unlawful," lack congressional approval, and harm American business. The Ventura, California company, in a lawsuit filed in the United States Court of International Trade on July 24, alleges Trump and his deputies, in imposing tariffs of 10% and 12.5% on goods imported into the U.S. under Section 301 of the Trade Act,  exceeded the President's authority to unilaterally levy such measures. The lawsuit represents the most aggressive response yet by the watch industry that has been financially kneecapped by the levies that have exacerbated an economically challenging environment that includes a strong Swiss franc against the U.S. dollar and record precious metals prices, a key input in luxury watchmaking. Many of the most high-profile watch brands raised prices in response, while retailers have taken a hit on margins. Collective Horology co-founder and CEO Asher Rapkin. Photo courtesy Collective Horology.  Founded in 2018, Collective sells independent watch brands including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, U.S.-based J.N. Shapiro and Ming, among others. The company has paid more than $160,000 in tariff duties under various schemes imposed by the Trump White House and U.S. Trade Representative Greer, says co-founder and Chief Exe...

Does Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas 34.5 Redefine Watch Sizing? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin s Overseas 34.5 Redefine Jul 25, 2026

Does Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas 34.5 Redefine Watch Sizing? (Hands-On)

Vacheron Constantin have bolstered their 34.5mm collection, but is ‘small’ the new ‘mid-size?’ Let’s find out! What We Love: A compact but unisex sizing Remarkable quality-of-life features Gorgeous red dial What We Don’t: A big ask for a small watch No Geneva Seal on the movement Can 34.5mm be considered midsize? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 10/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The effects of a shrinking watch world have been felt across all brands. No, not ‘shrinking’ as in fewer watches, but rather the growing trend towards smaller case sizes. Everyone from the highest levels of luxury to the most obscure microbrands has shifted to accommodate the change, and, as a result, it has redefined what constitutes a ‘small’, ‘medium’, or ‘large’ watch. This isn’t an uncommon occurrence in the industry. In the past, even 40mm designs were often referred to as ‘jumbo’. As proportionality has become a greater priority for consumers, it has become just as important for watch brands. Vacheron Constantin, despite its age, has proven remarkably adept at responding to these shifts. In 2023, the brand introduced a new 34.5mm size to its flagship Overseas collection. Sitting between the significantly smaller 30mm models and the more traditionally masculine 41mm cases, the 34.5mm joins the collection as its ‘mid-size’ offering. It’s an unusual size for a watch, especially one positioned as the middle ground within...

Five High-End Watch Collaborations I’d Love To See Happen Fratello
Ulysse Nardin × Urwerk UR-Freak late Jul 24, 2026

Five High-End Watch Collaborations I’d Love To See Happen

When I went hands-on with the Ulysse Nardin × Urwerk UR-Freak late last year, I walked away genuinely surprised, and that doesn’t happen to me much anymore. I never saw that partnership coming. Ulysse Nardin had never made a collaboration watch in its modern history, and Urwerk has always felt like a creative universe of […] Visit Five High-End Watch Collaborations I’d Love To See Happen to read the full article.

Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Time Slip Limited Edition Goes Black and Gold WatchRider
Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Time Slip Jul 24, 2026

Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Time Slip Limited Edition Goes Black and Gold

Citizen has added a limited-edition chapter to the sportier side of the Tsuyosa family. Reference NJ0238-57E is officially called the Tsuyosa Shore, but its textured gradient-black dial, warm gold-coloured accents and steel bracelet give it a noticeably more vintage character than the bright colours usually associated with the collection. A darker Tsuyosa Shore The theme is “Time Slip,” Citizen’s description of a design intended to feel as though it has travelled back from another era. The black dial has a grainy surface rather than a flat glossy finish, while the gold-coloured hands, applied hour markers and bezel scale add warmth without using artificial patina. A cyclops magnifier sits over the date at three o’clock, and the broad markers keep the watch easy to read. This is not simply a standard Tsuyosa with a different dial. The 40 mm stainless-steel case carries a 120-click, unidirectional rotating bezel, making the Shore look closer to a compact retro sports watch. Citizen specifies a thickness of 12.5 mm and a weight of 149 grams. The three-link steel bracelet uses a push-button triple-fold clasp and fits wrists from 142 to 206 mm. Built for everyday water use A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and both the hands and hour markers are luminous. Water resistance is rated at 10 bar, or 100 metres, so swimming and normal water-side use are within its remit. It should not be mistaken for a professional ISO-certified dive watch, but the rotating bezel, strong ...

Ranking my CARTIER tank alternatives WatchRider
Cartier tank alternatives Few watch Jul 23, 2026

Ranking my CARTIER tank alternatives

Few watch designs in history carry the timeless, effortless elegance of the Cartier Tank. Ever since Louis Cartier introduced the rectangular silhouette in 1917, it has been the gold standard for dress watches. But you don’t need to drop thousands of dollars to get that iconic Art Deco aesthetic on your wrist.  There is a specific kind of magic in the rectangular watch silhouette. It is an aesthetic that feels timeless, refined, and effortlessly chic, a design language that speaks of old-world elegance without being loud.  While the legendary Cartier Tank remains the gold standard for many, I have found that my own journey into watch collecting has been defined by finding that same “Tank” spirit in pieces that tell their own stories. Over the years, I have carefully curated a collection of rectangular timepieces that have become constant companions in my daily rotation. They aren’t just accessories, they are long-term partners that have seen me through countless days. Here is how I rank my personal collection of “Tank” alternatives. The Undisputed Champion: Seiko V115-0BE0 (SUP250) When searching for the ultimate homage to the Tank style minus the steep price tag, the Seiko V115-0BE0 (SUP250) easily emerges as the winner. Having spent years putting this watch through its paces, its status as my top pick is unquestionable. Its exceptional craftsmanship, refined finishing, and brilliant light play make it the ultimate spiritual heir to that luxury holy grail w...