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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Event Invitation: Join Us For A Gallet × Fratello Evening On November 10th Fratello
Breitling sibling Exactly 200 years 4 days ago

Event Invitation: Join Us For A Gallet × Fratello Evening On November 10th

A few months ago, Gallet re-entered the watch world as a Breitling sibling. Exactly 200 years after its founding in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand went all out with four new collections — Flying Officer, Multichron Pilot, Multichron Sport, and Gallet Classics. All four lines draw on different parts of Gallet’s history, from aviation and international […] Visit Event Invitation: Join Us For A Gallet × Fratello Evening On November 10th to read the full article.

Renaud Tixier’s Monday Skeleton Makes Depth a Virtue SJX Watches
4 days ago

Renaud Tixier’s Monday Skeleton Makes Depth a Virtue

The Renaud Tixier Monday Skeleton reveals the young independent’s debut movement in greater detail, pairing its inventive “dancer” micro-rotor with extensively reworked bridges and elaborate hand finishing. The skeletonised design gives the Monday a more distinctive identity, turning the movement’s substantial thickness into an asset through its layered architecture. Initial thoughts The Monday Skeleton feels like an important step for Renaud Tixier, an independent brand founded in 2024 by Dominique Renaud, an industry veteran and co-founder of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker with a broad skillset that encompasses everything from prototyping to finishing. Most skeletonised watches share an inherent weakness, which is that they tend to resemble one another — stripping away the dial removes much of what distinguishes one watch from the next. But Renaud Tixier’s identity is rooted primarily in its engineering and craftsmanship, and the brand’s debut calibre is sufficiently distinctive that revealing it arguably gives the Monday Skeleton a stronger identity than those of its predecessors with conventional dials, which felt somewhat generic. The Monday’s raison d’être is its clever “dancer” micro-rotor system, which aims to increase winding efficiency with an integrated spring-loaded flywheel. This approach was developed by Mr Renaud, who was inspired by the energy recovery systems used in hybrid automotive powertrains. This system of...

(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical? WatchAdvice
Zenith s Chronomaster Revival A384 5 days ago

(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical?

Zenith’s latest addition to the Chronomaster Revival line directly references its heritage models, but can the beauty of age be replicated? Let’s find out! What We Love: Old-world cues in a sepia tone Retro yet wearable case profile Ladder bracelet perfect for hotter temperatures What We Don’t: Sharp clasp still needs improving No hacking seconds Be old or look old? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 Just like us, watches get old. But vintage watches occupy the same space as old cars, Renaissance art, George Clooney and Anne Hathaway, in so far as they’ve aged gracefully. And while everyone wants a piece of that prime beauty, not everyone can get their hands on it. So too is the case for the original Zenith Ref. A384, first introduced in 1969 as the brand’s first-ever high-beat chronograph. Establishing the foundations for generations of Zenith watches to come, the A384 has since become a legend, rarely seen outside the upper echelons of vintage watch collecting. Getting your hands on one is near-impossible these days, as unfortunately we can’t rewind time to when their price tags was equivalent to peanuts. But what if we could fast-forward? That’s what Zenith asked itself when it introduced the Chronomaster Revival A384 in 2019. The first reference faithfully recreated the original A384 as if it had just rolled off the factory floor, with the iconic ladder bracelet following in 2020. This l...

Introducing: Fredrique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Frederique Constant released 5 days ago

Introducing: Fredrique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Last year, Frederique Constant released its classic perpetual calendar with a new movement, the FC-776, and eighteen months later, the brand is releasing a burgundy edition of its Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar, limited to 100 pieces. As Mark wrote when the previous edition was released right before last year's Watches and Wonders, the watch "has been one of if not the premiere affordable mechanical perpetual calendar on the market," and with the burgundy edition, the brand is offering a limited edition option to the collection. The polished stainless steel case measures 40mm by 12.25mm and has an anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal, 50 meters of water resistance, and an engraved case back carrying the individual edition number. The sunray-finished dial shifts from deep wine tones to brighter reflections, with a Côtes de Genève pattern on the counters. The day sits at 9 o'clock, the date at 3 o'clock, and the month and leap year at 12 o'clock. The moonphase at 6 o'clock runs against a midnight-blue background with laser-engraved stars. A chemin de fer minute track, applied faceted hour markers, and polished hands, and the fluted onion crown complete the dial. The Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition, comes on a black alligator strap with a folding buckle and includes a second strap in burgundy alligator with an easy-open deployment clasp. It is priced at $12,995, limited to 100 pieces, and is available now. What We Thin...

Ressence Debuts a Fully Blued-Out Version with Its New Type 10 Dark Night Worn & Wound
Ressence Debuts 5 days ago

Ressence Debuts a Fully Blued-Out Version with Its New Type 10 Dark Night

We know the trend of all black watches well – what was once a novelty has now become a regular part of most catalogs, so perhaps we can no longer call this a trend but an industry staple. I think the monochromatic concept really works on many different levels. It can make a watch ultra stealthy and discrete. For some models, it just looks sleek and sexy. For others, it can actually serve to bring out the best in the design. On the other end of the spectrum, we have models with so much tone on tone on tone – lacking any contrast through materials or textures – you can barely read them. These watches have understandably undergone some scrutiny. However, I find it a cheeky commentary on the fact we don’t really need our timepieces for any utilitarian purpose, and a color palette can simply be a design choice.So, in typical Ressence fashion, we have a twist on the all-black aesthetic with a deep blue hue the brand is calling Dark Night. If you’re familiar with Ressence, you know the brand is anything but motivated by trends – the opposite. This is a brand who literally came into being by asking the question, what if someone were to build a blueprint for a watch for the first time today without any constraints of what a watch should look like? The result was the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) offering human-centric readability with a layout engineered to look and process like a two-dimensional digital screen lacking traditional hands or a crown. Instead, the ...

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Saquon Barkley Edition Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical 5 days ago

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Saquon Barkley Edition

H. Moser & Cie. has a particular way of approaching high complications, often combining elaborate mechanics with pared-back design – think Moser’s perpetual calendars. The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, introduced in 2022, was quite different; it featured a complex skeletonised movement, housed in the robust steel case of the brand’s sportier collection. For its latest […]

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. x Saquon Barkley Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Limited Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
H. Moser & Cie x Saquon 5 days ago

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. x Saquon Barkley Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Limited Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know In 2025, Philadelphia Eagles running back Saquon Barkley joined H. Moser & Cie. as a "friend of the brand", a title that can mean different things from brand to brand. Now comes the next chapter of that partnership: his first limited edition with Moser, a watch that suggests his interest in horology runs deeper than the usual ambassador arrangement. Plenty of pro athletes go for the loudest, most recognizable names. The H. Moser & Cie. x Saquon Barkley Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Limited Edition does the opposite: the watchmaking comes first, and the collaboration details stay quiet. The watch keeps the general form of the base model that's been out since 2022, with a stainless steel case measuring 42.8mm by 15.3mm thick due to the domed sapphire crystal. Without that dome, it measures 11.7mm, showing the bulk isn't in the movement. That should be apparent, as the movement is highly skeletonized, emphasizing the three-dimensional cylindrical tourbillon. The small subdial at 12 o'clock, made of aventurine and with applied Super-LumiNova indices, was chosen, according to Barkley, because it's eye-catching without being ostentatious. With the blue dial and white strap as a nod to his alma mater, Penn State, it's one of a few subtle nods to the athlete's history, and subtle is definitely welcome. Many athletes would go big or go home instead, but not Barkley. What started as a natural partnership, with Barkley choosing to wear a Moser at the...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust Fratello
Tudor Royal Vs Rolex Oysterquartz Oct 18, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a hot cup of coffee, some breakfast, and another installment in our ongoing Sunday Morning Showdown series. This week, the question is whether you’ll go modern or vintage. Daan picked the updated Tudor Royal that debuted at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. It goes up against Jorg’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Heritage 1854’s Makeover, An Archive of Movie Posters, and Luggage-Inspired Eyewear Worn & Wound
Timex resource covering watches from Oct 17, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Heritage 1854’s Makeover, An Archive of Movie Posters, and Luggage-Inspired Eyewear

Reelizer I think part of the reason that I spend $100 a year on my Criterion membership is solely because I was roped in by their box sets at Barnes & Noble in my youth and haven’t recovered. And while I’m constantly complaining I never have time to watch movies anymore, I can’t seem to cancel it. Sometimes, I’ll just scroll through the library to see the little thumbnails of movies I may never watch, more interested in the design that captures the essence of the film than, say, that underground Czech comedy or whatever the hell Criterion is highlighting this month.  But, at least, it seems I’m not the only one who loves the posters as much as the movies. Reelizer is a personal archive of movie art curated by designer and developer Roger Erik Tinch. The site currently includes 225 works spanning posters, screenprints, illustrations, physical-media packaging, apparel, books and other pieces from across film culture. Everything can be searched by film, artist or collection, with individual entries crediting the artists and labels behind the work. You can view the entire collection here – and I’d love to know which one is your favorite from the library. Heritage 1854 Gets a Makeover What can I say? I’m on an archive kick lately. First Reelizer and now this. Heritage 1854 is a vintage Timex resource covering watches from 1949 through 2000, created by collector Ark Zaydman as a place to document the watches themselves alongside original catalogs, advertisements...

Oris Gives Its ProPilot Caliber 111 Simple but Significant Updates Worn & Wound
Casio n Oct 16, 2026

Oris Gives Its ProPilot Caliber 111 Simple but Significant Updates

Our story starts back in 2014 on the year of Oris’ milestone 110th anniversary. For the occasion, the brand unveiled its first proprietary in-house movement in 35 years, featuring a manual-wind 10-day power reserve and a non-linear power reserve indicator. This movement was aptly named the Caliber 110. A year later, Oris presented the next evolution with the Caliber 111 in the Big Crown ProPilot lineup. The new movement added a dedicated date window at 9 o’clock alongside the signature airplane fuel gauge-style non-linear power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. The model’s technical prowess caught the attention of the industry and went on to receive a coveted GPHG nomination that year.Over the past decade, we have seen only a select few iterations on the original, namely new dial colorways. Now, we get a brand new redesign with the latest incarnation. This follows in the footsteps of the brand’s redesign of the ProPilot Date, which brought a series of design updates including an organic dial texture inspired by nature, subtle evolutions to the applied numerals and lume-tipped hands to enhance legibility, and improvements to the ergonomics of the folding ‘LIFT’ clasp (one of the ProPilot’s signature elements). It also introduced an inventive seamless fit strap adjustment system. Let’s get into the specific upgrades that translate to the new ProPilot Caliber 111. Front and center we have a new dial application with fresh finishes. The details are more visible...

First Look - Frederique Constant Dresses Its Attainable Perpetual Calendar in Burgundy Monochrome
Frederique Constant Dresses Oct 16, 2026

First Look - Frederique Constant Dresses Its Attainable Perpetual Calendar in Burgundy

Frederique Constant is known to make traditionally expensive watchmaking complications more accessible. Its Manufacture Perpetual Calendar, first introduced in 2016, was a QP priced well below that of many established competitors. In 2025, the watch received an update: a more refined 40mm case and a revised movement, with a power reserve extended to 72 hours. […]

Bring a Loupe: A Breguet's Breguet, A LIP Chronograph, An IWC Aquatimer, And A Boucheron Carree Hodinkee
Breguet s Breguet Oct 16, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Breguet's Breguet, A LIP Chronograph, An IWC Aquatimer, And A Boucheron Carree

It's a big world out there, Baller, full of seductive objects to pursue beyond watches. In the course of finding stuff to fill out BAL each week, I come across delights galore, and it feels essential to pass along that, should you have an excess of time and money and a dearth of memorabilia, there's a full auction of items from Paul Reubens (aka Pee Wee Herman), titled, appropriately enough, Paul Reubens' Big Auction, and yes, there's a bike. Scorekeeping last weeks picks, the Orvis Solunagraph auctions next Thursday and the LIP Mach 2000 later today. The Patek 5107 sold for €13,500, and the Omega DeVille Emerald sold for $650. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. Your affordable vintage diver of the week is from that least-loved of brands, Invicta. Yes, Invicta is a punchline now, but their vintage stuff can offer surprises. Here's Alan Bean's personal BA 145.022-69, for all you space cadets, and here's a trio of early electronic Wittnauers that will be 'fun' for someone, depending on how capacious their definition of fun is, given that the watches are listed as not currently running. This gold chronograph from Juvenia felt, on first seeing it, like the most charming watch I'd find this week, but then there's this incredible Zenith purse watch, which takes the cake charm-wise. For all you Pogue heads (the watch/astronaut, not the band), neither of these are 'true' pogues, in that they're both 6139-6002s, but both look great, and Seiko 6139s are great fun. Finally, I covered...

Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10 SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10 Oct 16, 2026

Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10

The Ressence Type 10 DN pairs the brand’s proprietary base calibre with its oil-filled display module for the first time. The organically shaped case is a natural evolution of Ressence’s minimalist style, finished in dark blue DLC-coated titanium for this 100-piece debut. The new movement brings a practical benefit, extending the power reserve from 36 to 60 hours compared with its ETA-powered oil-filled siblings. Initial thoughts Ressence debuted its first proprietary base calibre earlier this year in the Type 11, and it was only a matter of time before the Belgian independent paired this platform with its signature oil-filled display module. We didn’t have to wait long, which suggests the industrialisation of the new movement is progressing well. Inspiration for the Type 10’s organic shape came from founder Benoît Mintiens’ curiosity about what a watch would look like if shaped by the laws of nature. The result is an organic form that smoothly integrates the lines of the crystal into the case, with scalloped lugs meeting a colour-matched rubber strap. The case surfaces meet along one of its few sharp edges, while the absence of a conventional crown preserves the symmetry. Like other Ressence watches, the Type 10 is set and wound via the case back ring. The case is made of polished Grade 5 titanium with a DLC coating in a shade Ressence calls “Dark Night” — a rich navy that continues across the dial, which has been simplified beyond the brand’s typical m...