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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Toledano & Chan Dazzles with their Latest Release Worn & Wound
Ming more Oct 12, 2026

Toledano & Chan Dazzles with their Latest Release

Toledano & Chan has introduced their latest release, the B/1 Dazzle. Eagle eyed GPHG watchers might have gotten a small tease of this one when nominations were released a few months back (it’s fairly routine for brands to submit embargoed watches, and they’re often revealed before the official launch as part of the GPHG voting process), but now the cat is fully out of the bag. The Dazzle is actually a pair of watches, both using Toledano & Chan’s now familiar case architecture inspired by the former Whitney Museum building, designed by Marcel Breuer, and Brutalist forms and ideas more generally. Now with several distinct releases under their belt, it’s becoming more and more interesting to see how Toledano & Chan iterate on this platform. The Dazzle might be my personal favorite of the executions of this case design to date.  The idea for the Dazzle comes from camouflage used on battleships during the first World War. The so-called “dazzle” camouflage design was not meant to conceal, but to use complex geometry to confuse the enemy by disrupting proportion. The alternating black and white bars painted onto a ship that’s in constant motion would have been difficult for an adversary to pin down. The dazzle design language has been used in art and design for many years since, including on watches, but Toledano & Chan’s version plays with the idea in a few interesting ways that I haven’t seen before.  Like the most recent B/1 releases, this one is in titani...

Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick? Fratello
Oct 12, 2026

Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick?

These days, “finishing” is a buzzword. Talk to fans of high horology, and you will most likely hear terms like “anglage,” “black polish,” and “perlage.” It seems like everything is about finishing nowadays, which made a master watchmaker tell me that decorating every last piece of a movement is not the essence of watchmaking. He […] Visit Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick? to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Vs. Spectre Edition Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Oct 11, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Vs. Spectre Edition

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a vodka martini, shaken, not stirred. In this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we end a busy Bond week with a battle between good and evil. On Monday, Omega released a duo of new Seamasters to celebrate Global James Bond Day on October 5th (chosen because it marks the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Vs. Spectre Edition to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New KUOE Watch Coming to New York’s Wind Up, A Toyota-Inspired Collection, and a Set of Cycling Bags Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 10, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New KUOE Watch Coming to New York’s Wind Up, A Toyota-Inspired Collection, and a Set of Cycling Bags

Beams x REI Co-op Expedition Parka My husband and I were debating what to call my personal style over the weekend and, unfortunately, neither of us had anything positive to say. The best we could come up with was “Chandler from Friends with a maxed-out credit card.” Part of the reason is that I’m not adventurous. Even my “nice” clothes look like something from the Gap that my mom bought me before my sophomore year. I have, in short, no courage to branch out of the ’90s, I guess you could say. But maybe that’s not a total loss. I just need to take my sartorial time machine back to 1986. That’s when REI first released its Expedition Parka, and BEAMS has brought the style back for a new collaboration, limited to 500 pieces. The new version keeps the oversized shape and bright color blocking of the original, while updating the construction with a two-layer Windstopper by GORE-TEX Labs shell and 650-fill down. The BEAMS x REI Co-op Expedition Parka is available now for $599.   KOUE’s Royal Smith 90-006 Large, New York Limited Edition Who’s getting excited about Windup next week? And who’s even more excited now knowing that KUOE Kyoto is bringing a 50-piece limited edition to New York? The Royal Smith 90-006 Large, New York Limited Edition pairs the waffle dial from the 90-006 with the Dauphine-style hands from the discontinued 90-005, along with a cream dial, silver case and brown leather strap made in Italy. The case comes in at 39mm, while inside is the...

Raymond Weil’s New Limited-Edition Freelancer World-Traveler Actually Makes You Feel Like One Fratello
Raymond Weil s New Limited-Edition Freelancer Oct 10, 2026

Raymond Weil’s New Limited-Edition Freelancer World-Traveler Actually Makes You Feel Like One

Today marks 50 years since the Raymond Weil brand was established in Geneva. Coincidentally, it’s also the late founder and namegiver’s 100th birthday. To celebrate these joyful events, Raymond Weil unveiled the new Freelancer World-Traveler limited edition. The new Freelancer introduces a bidirectional bezel for operating the city ring and a stamped, textured relief world […] Visit Raymond Weil’s New Limited-Edition Freelancer World-Traveler Actually Makes You Feel Like One to read the full article.

Five Watches to See at Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Oct 10, 2026

Five Watches to See at Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026

The Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 is a Patek Philippe extravaganza that’s on show until October 18 at CityOval, a restored 1920s sporting complex. Hundreds of timepieces populate the over-30,000 sq ft space, including 99 from the venerable Patek Philippe Museum. But some watches stand out, for reasons ranging from artisanal beauty to historical significance – here’s five worth paying attention to. Starting with the present day are a duo from the Rare Handcrafts collection put together specifically for this event. These are proof that beauty is both rare and expensive – each is a one-off and costs about US$800,000. The first is the Rare Handcrafts Pocket Watch ref. 995/147G-001 “Venetian Cruise” that is literal: the reverse depicts a journey across the waters of Venice from the perspective of a passenger on a runabout, perhaps a Riva. The scene is something of a modern riff on classical painting depicting the entrance to the Grand Canal of Venice. The wood deck of the boat is actually wood – the dial has over 330 pieces of wood forming the marquetry motif. The lake and buildings, which include the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute, are in miniature enamel painting. The juxtaposition of techniques and intricacy of the work make this a particularly compelling piece. In contrast, the front of the watch is functional and almost no-frills, yet entirely appropriate. The dial is modelled on the instruments on the dashboard of a boat, explaining the funct...

World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage SJX Watches
De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet Oct 10, 2026

World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage

Today marks the second annual World Watch Day, celebrated on October 10 in a clever nod to the familiar “10:10” depiction of watch hands. This year’s theme, “Time as Living Heritage”, puts the people of Sainte-Croix at the centre of the occasion. A training course at Association Mec-Art Marking the event, our founder SJX participated in a round-table discussion about preserving and passing on the skills of both watchmaking and mechanical art. The panel included De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet and automaton maker François Junod, who helped establish the Association Mec-Art, watchmaker Vianney Halter, The 1916 Company’s Tim Mosso, and Karin Alexandrian of the Musée des Arts et Métiers. Europa Star’s Pierre Maillard moderated the conversation. Denis Flageollet of De Bethune co-founded the Association Mec-Art in 2016 with automaton-makers François Junod and Nicolas Court The organisers, Association Mec-Art and the Musée de la Mécanique d’Art et du Patrimoine de Sainte-Croix (MuMAPS), work to safeguard the traditions explored in our earlier story on the unique skills being preserved in Sainte-Croix. These extend beyond watches to music boxes, mechanical singing birds, and automata. Mec-Art helps keep the skills alive through creative projects and practical courses, while MuMAPS is the local museum dedicated to mechanical art and the town’s heritage. The shared challenge is to ensure that future generations can still make and repair these objects, ...

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Lord Elgin, Omega, TAG Heuer, and More! Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Oct 9, 2026

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Lord Elgin, Omega, TAG Heuer, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage U.S.Steel Lord Elgin Presentation Watch  Here’s a cool piece to start us off this week, a vintage Lord Elgin U.S. Steel presentation watch. As one might expect, the case is steel, and looks to be unpolished with crisp edges and nice lugs. The caseback is engraved as a presentation to Gilbert Yager for 41 years of service to USS, dated February 1959. 41 years, that’s impressive! I hope Gibert got a little more than a watch though for that long! Anyways, the silver dial is clean, with applied steel hour markers and a nice subseconds dial at 6. There is a USS logo printed on the dial. No movement pictures but the watch runs per the seller. Fun piece with a cool history! View auction here Vintage Tissot Seastar Chronograph  Next up is a sharp looking vintage Tissot Seastar chronograph. The 35mm steel case is unpolished with the original vertical brushed finish and sharp edges. Behind the scratched up acrylic crystal is a nice looking black dial with three white subdials. The dial looks to be in great shape, with applied steel baton markers and steel paddle hands. The large crown is signed with the Tissot “T” logo as it should be. The watch is powered by what looks to be a L...

Business News: Movado Selling Ebel To F.P. Journe And Chanel In Deal Heralding Comeback Of Once Mighty Swiss Brand Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Oct 9, 2026

Business News: Movado Selling Ebel To F.P. Journe And Chanel In Deal Heralding Comeback Of Once Mighty Swiss Brand

Ebel, once one of the most successful and top-selling Swiss watch brands, which has fallen into relative obscurity under the ownership of Movado Group, is being sold to a consortium of high-profile buyers, including François-Paul Journe and Chanel, who plan to revive the Ebel marque with hopes of returning it to its former glory.  Vintage Ebel chronographs. Photo courtesy of Phillips; credit: James Kong.  Movado Group, Inc. says it entered into a binding agreement to sell a 95% interest in the Ebel brand for $66.5 million to a strategic buyer group led by Geneva-based Montres Journe SA, with the participation of French luxury house Chanel and Pierre Jacques, a long-time industry executive. Jacques, who previously headed De Bethune for more than a decade, will take over as CEO of Ebel while Movado, with shares publicly listed on the New York Stock Exchange, which purchased the brand from LVMH in 2004, will retain a 5% stake in the business when the deal is completed, the parties said in a statement. The agreement underscores the growing business interest in reviving faded luxury Swiss watch brands once revered by watch consumers. Breitling paid more than CHF 60 million to acquire the Universal Genève brand and archives and relaunched it as a high-end luxury marque earlier this year. Ebel was once a major player in the industry, thriving during the quartz crisis era of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s under Pierre-Alain Blum, a third-generation leader of the family-owned busi...

Bring a Loupe: An Orvis Solunagraph, An Omega DeVille Emerald, A Lip Mach 2000 Chronograph, And A Patek Philippe Calatrava Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Calatrava Welcome Oct 9, 2026

Bring a Loupe: An Orvis Solunagraph, An Omega DeVille Emerald, A Lip Mach 2000 Chronograph, And A Patek Philippe Calatrava

Welcome to Friday, Baller. We're in busy times, what with the weather changing, and, at least in the States, we're enjoying an embarrassment of riches movie-wise, with a new Sorkin movie just having opened and two incredible new movies—The Only Living Pickpocket In New York and You Can See Everything premiering next Friday. I, for one, am already stocking up on popcorn. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Lucien Piccard Telephone and the Mappin and Webb watches remain available, while the Omega Admiralty and JLC Master Mariner have both sold. Strays I don't know if "understated bling" is a thing or not, but if such a category exists, it is absolutely where this Piaget Protocole in white gold from Rare Birds belongs. If Seiko's announcement of its newest panda chronograph whetted your appetite, here's an awfully great vintage Wittnauer two-register chronograph on auction from Loupe This, which, no, isn't as cute and lacks ears for pushers, but is still a great watch. Should you, after reading more down below about Abercrombie & Fitch watches, find yourself in the market for a vintage alarm watch from the brand, look no further. Photo courtesy of Rarebirds. Vintage lesser-known great-looking diver? Absolutely. Interesting vintage Rolex Prince? Why not. On the one hand, I've never seen any LeCoultre chronograph configured like this one. On the other hand: everything appears correct—signed dial and movement, appropriate wear, etc.—so who knows. Finally, for those who wan...

Happenings: Singapore's Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Returns This November Hodinkee
Rexhep Rexhepi chatting Oct 9, 2026

Happenings: Singapore's Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Returns This November

With the massive rise in interest in independent brands over the past few years, it seems like it's basically impossible to even begin to meet with watchmakers these days, let alone have a meaningful conversation with them or see their watches. I have to field the question "How do I meet ___" at least once a week. No matter the answer, it requires some effort. But what if I told you that you could walk into a room and see Rexhep Rexhepi chatting with Max Büsser, right next to Kari Voutilainen, who is looking at Jean-Claude Biver's watch while Jean Arnault looks at Trilobe. All while Rémy Cools, Theo Auffret, Gaël Petermann, and Florian Bédat are chatting at a table nearby, their watches in hand. That's IAMWATCH in Singapore, and it's happening again from November 12 to 15 at the Singapore Edition. Kari Voutilainen and Jean-Claude Biver. I was there two years ago at the first iteration of what I will say is one of the most "me" watch fairs ever made; you can see my 2024 Photo Report here for a sense of the event. I love the people of the watchmaking as much as I love the watches—maybe even more because I can't afford most of the big-name independents, but I can enjoy talking to them and learning from them all the same. The Hour Glass, one of the world's largest retailers, is also putting it on, and it's run by long-time avowed independent watchmaking acolyte and Managing Director Michael Tay. Proof of how stacked this event is comes from the list of names I'm going to...

Introducing - Angelus Puts a Tachymeter on Its Vintage-Inspired Monopusher Chronograph Monochrome
Angelus Puts Oct 9, 2026

Introducing - Angelus Puts a Tachymeter on Its Vintage-Inspired Monopusher Chronograph

Angelus continues to revive its historical stopwatch designs with the new Chronographe Tachymètre, a trio of compact monopusher watches that follows last year’s Chronographe Télémètre. The new watches share the same case and hand-wound A5000 calibre as their predecessors, but replace the telemeter scale with a tachymeter designed to measure speed – more on the […]

Introducing: Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre Live Pics Oct 9, 2026

Introducing: Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre (Live Pics)

What We Know Angelus has dropped the curtain on three new limited-edition watches built on the same platform as the fan-favorite (and GPHG-winning) Chronographe Télémètre, only not quite. With this trio of novelties — appropriately dubbed the Chronographe Tachymètre — Angelus has dropped the telemeter scale, replacing it with a tachymeter, and bringing with it a slightly sportier look than we've come to expect from Angelus's most compact modern offering. The new model follows up a limited-edition take on the idea of a Chronographe Télémètre released in collaboration with Monochrome Watches earlier this year. But where that watch featured a double-tracked tachymeter and a decidedly vintage aesthetic, these new watches offer a decidedly different take on the concept, leaning into the look of midcentury racing watches. Here, that means you have the same bi-register chronograph layout, but with a single-track tachymeter and subdials finished in contrasting colors. Like the Chronographe Télémètre that preceded it, the new Chronographe Tachymètre is offered in three configurations, with two of those in steel cases and the other in yellow gold. The yellow gold offering — which is limited to 15 pieces — is fitted with a yellow-gold-tone dial with green (really, a very dark grey with a greenish hue) accents. The stainless steel watches are offered with either a salmon dial with grey accents or a grey dial with blue accents. These watches come in editions of 30 an...

Chanel & F.P.Journe acquire 95% stake in Ebel in US$66.5M deal Time+Tide
F.P. Journe will look Oct 9, 2026

Chanel & F.P.Journe acquire 95% stake in Ebel in US$66.5M deal

The House of Brands is looking to restore Gallet and Universal Genéve to their former glory; Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield relaunched Urban Jürgensen; and now Chanel and F.P. Journe will look to revitalise another cult classic watchmaker: Ebel.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Pierre Jacques (@pierre_jacques1) Earlier today, … Continued

SJX Podcast: Rolex London, Patek Philippe Milano SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Milano Oct 9, 2026

SJX Podcast: Rolex London, Patek Philippe Milano

On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX returns from London and Milan with impressions of two very different demonstrations of watchmaking’s biggest names at work. Rolex’s “Four Seasons” Daytona auction broke the record for the biggest charity watch auction in history, raising nearly US$50 million, but a longer run-up might possibly have pushed the result even higher. In Milan, Patek Philippe unveiled the ref. 5978P, pairing an instantaneous perpetual calendar with its manually wound chronograph. The exhibition’s Rare Handcrafts and Italian-market limited editions also offer plenty to debate, from remarkable pocket watches to a Ferrari-red minute repeater. Finally, we discuss highlights from Marteau & Co’s fourth online auction, which runs from October 8-15th. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.