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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Hands On: Wren Vessel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Wren Vessel

New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...

Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue SJX Watches
Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue

The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue adds a dark blue ceramic case to the brand’s 500 m dive watch collection. It’s a more casual take on the Supermarine, with a restrained colour and carefully finished case that give the Sellita-powered diver a more stylish, less tactical character. Initial thoughts Sometimes it’s surprising how much difference a colour can make. In the case of the Bremont Supermarine, the navy blue hue of the ceramic case and bezel results in a look that is quite different from that of its black ceramic stablemates. The deep blue colour is very subtle, and to my eye looks less plasticky than some brighter blue ceramic competitors. The prominent texture of the brushing on the case gives it vaguely a metallic appearance, and it at a glance it could almost pass for PVD-coated steel. While ceramic is not a perfect material and can crack under extreme torsion or if dropped onto a sufficiently hard surface, the real-world benefits outweigh these edge cases. The natural scratch-resistance of ceramic pays dividends when changing straps, for example, as the spring bars cannot scratch the inside of the lugs when finding their seat. There’s also an ancillary benefit to ceramic, which is that service watchmakers will not be tempted to try to polish it. The Supermarine’s strengths lie in its finely executed dial and relatively slim case. The wave-inspired dial pattern is dramatic without being overpowering, while the 13 mm thickness and flat case ...

Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chanel Acquire 95% Oct 8, 2026

Breaking News: F.P. Journe, Chanel Acquire 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 Million

In a surprise move, a consortium led by Montres Journe and comprising Chanel and Pierre Jacques, the former chief executive of De Bethune, has acquired Ebel from its longtime American owners, the Movado Group. According to the deal announcement, the consortium is buying 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 million, with the remaining shares to be retained by Movado. The three-party consortium evidently brings different skills to the table, including the financial firepower of Chanel, the watchmaking know-how of François-Paul Journe, and the operational and managerial expertise of Mr Jacques. Movado, on the other hand, might be relieved to have unloaded Ebel, which it unsuccessfully tried to revive over its two decades of ownership. From left: François-Paul Journe, Efraim Grinberg of Movado, Frédéric Grangié of Chanel, and Pierre Jacques. Image – Pierre Jacques Once a high flying brand that was one of the biggest in Switzerland during its 1980s and 1990s heyday, Ebel was famous for its Sport Classique, often nicknamed “wave”, which featured integrated bracelets resembling a wave. Launched in 1977, the model launched Ebel into the stratosphere, with its workforce growing 15 times and revenue reaching nine figures. Ebel was led during this time by Pierre-Alain Blum, grandson of its founders and a shrewd marketer. In the year just after the Quartz Crisis, Ebel was a luxury giant. Amongst the indicators of Ebel’s success and scale during this period: Cartier turned to Ebel to p...

Fratello Talks: Sylvain Berneron Fratello
Berneron Oct 8, 2026

Fratello Talks: Sylvain Berneron

Today, in a special episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and Lex are in Geneva for a chat with independent watch designer and entrepreneur Sylvain Berneron. The conversation kicks off with Berneron’s career in design, his time at major watch companies, and his decision to establish a brand of his own. Berneron’s background is somewhat unusual […] Visit Fratello Talks: Sylvain Berneron to read the full article.

Introducing: Glashütte Original's “Cherry Blossom” Senator Meissen Is In Full Bloom This Fall Hodinkee
Glashütte Original s “Cherry Blossom” Senator Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: Glashütte Original's “Cherry Blossom” Senator Meissen Is In Full Bloom This Fall

What We Know Last year, Glashütte Original released a trio of porcelain-dial watches as part of its collaboration with Meissen, Europe's oldest porcelain manufacturer, dating back to 1710. Today, the two historic German houses are partnering again, this time to release a new porcelain-dial watch inspired by Jugatsu-zakura, a Japanese cherry blossom that flowers intermittently during the colder months. The "Cherry Blossom" Senator Meissen retains all of the original collaboration's specs: It measures 40mm wide and 10.2mm thick, is set in red gold, and features an exhibition sapphire crystal caseback. It also comes on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a red-gold pin buckle. The dial is made of a thin slice of white porcelain that acts as a canvas for the hand-painted layers, which are fired at 900° Celsius between each layer to achieve maximum depth and intensity. Glashütte Original's lettering and Meissen's crossed swords logo are hand-painted near the center, but besides that, the dial has a blank format. The exclusion of any hour markers, numerals, or indices allows the cherry blossom motif, with its slender branches that extend upward and delicate, pale-pink flowers, to shine—punctuated only by solid-gold hour and minute hands. Powered by Glashütte Original's in-house automatic Caliber 36-16, the watch offers 100 hours of power reserve and operates at 4 Hz. The movement also features a silicon balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. (aka hacki...

Happenings: Join Us For Hodinkee Happy Hour At Grotta [RSVP Here] Hodinkee
Ming into town from near Oct 7, 2026

Happenings: Join Us For Hodinkee Happy Hour At Grotta [RSVP Here]

New York Watch Week is almost here, and we're kicking off the jam-packed weekend with the next installment of Hodinkee Happy Hour at Grotta. With watch enthusiasts and industry folk coming into town from near and far, it's the perfect opportunity to grab a beer, eat some pizza, and catch up with the New York watch community. Space is limited, so be sure to RSVP right away. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys and other Hodinkee team members. We'd love for you join, whether you're a regular or it's your first time attending one of our events. See you there! Date:Wednesday, October 14, 2026, 6-8 PMLocation:Grotta Local177 Mulberry StNew York, NY 10013 RSVP Here.

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Oct 7, 2026

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater

The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...

Seiko’s Power Design Project “Panda” Comes to Life SJX Watches
Grand Seiko inspired Oct 7, 2026

Seiko’s Power Design Project “Panda” Comes to Life

Seiko takes a break from its usual fare of affordable dive watches and dress watches with the Power Design Project Collection 2 “Panda” in black (HHK001) and pink (HHK002). It’s a limited edition run of a concept watch created for the design-oriented exhibition of the same name staged in 2024. Affordable and fun, the watch takes the concept of a “panda” dial literally. Initial thoughts The “Panda” chronograph is a fun watch in both concept and execution. It’s quartz with panda ears as chronograph pushers, while the price is a mere US$540. This is probably the top choice this year for an inexpensive gift that’s still a proper watch from a reputable brand. More broadly, the “Panda” underlines the diversity of Seiko’s offerings; one of its other launches this year was the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon, which is artisanal high horology. And it also raises the question, if there can be a top-of-the-line Grand Seiko inspired by a lion, why not a high-end “panda” chronograph? Design power The “Panda” limited edition is modelled on the concept watch created by Kiyotaka Sakai, a member of Seiko’s in-house design team, for Power Design Project in 2024. It’s almost identical to the exhibition watch, save for minor tweaks to the dial to improve legibility, as well as the addition of a nose and mouth for the “face” that replace “Pandagraph” in the concept watch. Designer Kiyotaka Sakai The “Panda” chronograph debuts in two variants, both ...

A. Lange & Söhne’s Singapore Pop-Up Explores Chronographs and Cars SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 7, 2026

A. Lange & Söhne’s Singapore Pop-Up Explores Chronographs and Cars

This month Singapore will play host to A. Lange & Söhne’s Challenging Chronographs, a pop-up exhibition exploring Lange’s iconic chronograph movements and the brand’s perennial presence at the automotive world’s most elite “concours” competitions. Taking place at ION Orchard, the exhibition will take visitors through the history of the Datograph collection, from the landmark 1999 original to the Double Split and Triple Split. The event also focusses on Lange’s role as an official partner of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este on Lake Como, and related events at Hampton Court Palace and Audrain Newport, events that bestow the most coveted awards in the world of vintage automobiles. The Triple Split in platinum A master watchmaker and a master engraver from Glashütte will be on hand throughout the event to provide insight into the assembly of the brand’s famed chronographs, and demonstrate the process of freehand engraving a balance cock, respectively. This unique 1815 Chronograph was awarded to the winner of the 2022 Concorso d’Eleganza at Villa d’Este Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 Open from 10:00 am-9:00 pm each day, guided tours and demonstrations are available by appointment, though limited slots will be available so early registration is encouraged. Challenging Chronographs will be hosted from October 18-30 at the ION Orchard, Level 1 Atrium at 2 Orchard Turn, Singapore 238801. Re...

Auctions: Previewing Marteau’s ‘Encore’ And Antiquorum’s Return To New York, Both This Month Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Oct 6, 2026

Auctions: Previewing Marteau’s ‘Encore’ And Antiquorum’s Return To New York, Both This Month

The fall auction season is already upon us. Or, I guess you could say, it's been here since the strong showing by Sotheby's in Hong Kong—though that technically ended right before the official start of fall. The Cartier Cheich in white gold (which traded hands among dealers and collectors for a few years at far less than that) sold for $3.4 million, setting a record as the most expensive Cartier and most expensive quartz watch ever sold. Weeks later, if you asked me what this means for the market, I'd probably stare at you blankly. Ben would probably do the same, as he's said on the site that it's just hard to make sense of prices both at retail and at auction anymore. Let's chat about that all first. What The Heck Is Going On With The Market? As we head into the bulk of the auctions, I currently feel far less confident telling you where prices will land. I think most prognosticators—myself included—would say that we have to be nearing the height of the bubble for F.P. Journe and A. Lange & Söhne. But then again, over breakfast the other day, a friend asked if I knew someone who'd want a very historically important watch from a more traditional brand that went underpriced nearly 10 years ago and now was available for double that—into the seven figures. Some things (like that very vague story, probably) make sense; some can leave you scratching your head. European Watch Co. has this Tourbillon Pour le Mérite listed for $1,100,000 right now. There was an interestin...

Happenings: New York Watch Week 2026 Is Almost Here Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Oct 6, 2026

Happenings: New York Watch Week 2026 Is Almost Here

It's that time of the year again! And no, I'm not talking about pumpkin spice season (but no shade if you're into it). I'm talking about the busiest time of the year for watches in New York, with New York Watch Week coming up in full swing. That means some of the most exciting watch shows in the Big Apple are happening over that weekend, with some cool talks, brand events, and more bringing it all together. Image courtesy WatchTime The two big shows that we all know and love will be very much present. WatchTime magazine continues the collector-favorite event centered around high-end watchmaking, WatchTime New York, happening from October 16th through the 18th. WatchTime seems to get bigger and bigger every year, and this year they'll be hosting a whopping 48 brands at Gotham Hall. Yes, it's hard to imagine how more brands can somehow fit into the space, but they've managed to make it happen. Along with many familiar names returning, some of the new brands making their debut at WatchTime will be Ferdinand Berthoud, Kudoke, Kollokium, Daniel Roth, and more. While Friday night tickets are sold out, single-day admission is available for sale at WatchTime for both Saturday and Sunday. To complement the high-end showcase at Gotham Hall, Windup Watch Fair (from our friends at Worn & Wound) returns also from October 16th through October 18th, at Center415 on Fifth Ave. between 37th and 38th St. The show will continue to be a delightfully overwhelming mix of everything watches and ...

Oris Ushers in Autumn with a New Big Crown Pointer Date Made in Collaboration with Cervo Volante Worn & Wound
Oris Ushers Oct 6, 2026

Oris Ushers in Autumn with a New Big Crown Pointer Date Made in Collaboration with Cervo Volante

Are you sleeping with your windows open? Pulling out your favorite sweater from the back of the closet? Finding yourself craving a little pumpkin spice on your commute to work? All the signs are pointing toward only one conclusion: it’s officially Fall. It seems I’m not the only one excited for what is indisputably the best season. Oris’ latest release, the new burgundy-colored Oris x Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date, is in a sense an homage to the autumnal landscape around the brand’s home in Hölstein. The Oris factory is located in Switzerland’s Waldenburg Valley, where the surrounding forests are beginning to show their autumnal colors. The latest Big Crown reflects the changing foliage with a burgundy dial and brown deer leather strap. As the name suggests, the watch is based on the Big Crown Pointer Date, keeping its Arabic numerals, fluted bezel and central pointer-date hand. Super-LumiNova is applied to the numerals, indices and hands. The brown strap comes from longtime Oris collaborator Cervo Volante and is made from sustainably sourced deer leather. Each watch also comes with a matching leather travel pouch. The stainless steel case measures 40mm and is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal, with an anti-reflective coating on the interior. Around back is a screwed stainless steel caseback with a mineral-glass display window, so you can view the automatic Oris Caliber 754-1 movement. The new burgundy Oris x Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date is ava...

Fratello On Air: Are You Safe Online As A Watch Collector? Fratello
Oct 6, 2026

Fratello On Air: Are You Safe Online As A Watch Collector?

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. We’re back from the road with your latest dose of watch talk. Today, we’re entertaining a topic from one of our favorite listeners, Roy! No, we’re not talking about Speedos by the pool, but we’re trying to answer whether it’s safe online to discuss our hobby. Enjoy […] Visit Fratello On Air: Are You Safe Online As A Watch Collector? to read the full article.

Dueling Dials: Omega’s James Bond and Spectre Seamasters SJX Watches
Omega s James Bond Oct 5, 2026

Dueling Dials: Omega’s James Bond and Spectre Seamasters

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond and Spectre collection pairs familiar no-date divers with competing character motifs, including platinum-gold variants in two limited edition boxed sets. The watches extend Omega’s most successful screen partnership while leaving the underlying Seamaster largely unchanged. Initial thoughts Omega’s partnership with James Bond remains one of the great marketing coups of the 1990s, pulled off by none other than Jean-Claude Biver. While it’s easy to feel cynical about product placement, especially today, the pairing made a lot of sense for film franchise looking for a fresh start with a new leading man. Today, the film franchise is at a turning point — Daniel Craig’s successor has not yet been announced, and it’s an open question whether the character’s appeal will extend to younger demographics. Despite these headwinds, the James Bond effect is no doubt a positive one for Omega, which has released dueling Seamasters — one for the titular character and one for his recurring nemesis, Spectre. The “James Bond” variant There’s also a pair of boxed sets — one for the hero, another for the villain — that include 77-piece limited edition variants of both the steel Seamasters and heavyweight versions in platinum-gold, which is mostly platinum with a bit of gold added to the alloy. The platinum-gold models weigh in at more than 200 g, nearly double the weight of the stainless steel equivalent on a strap. The “Spectr...

Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray Hodinkee
Ming Japanese movements Oct 5, 2026

Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray

It's funny the way a brand can sneak up on you. Maybe you hear the name on a podcast, and then, a few months later, you run into the brand at a watch fair, or on a friend's wrist. Still, despite repeated encounters, it's remarkable how a brand can continue to exist entirely outside your awareness. Until it doesn't. Until you somehow find a brand, or a watch, completely inescapable, unavoidable, inevitable. 18 months ago, I'm not sure I'd ever given an independent thought to Traska; today, that couldn't be further from the truth, and the brand's Chronograph (aptly named, the Chronograph) is the perfect example of why. If you don't yet know Traska, I don't blame you. Traska is just one of many small brands that have popped up over the last decade, and they've broadly followed a familiar formula: Kickstarter launch, followed by a slowly expanding stable of somewhat conservatively designed, three-handed sports and dive watches, all powered by reliable but unassuming Japanese movements, and all drawing a heavy dose of inspiration from well-known (but far less accessible) watch brands. So, if the broad strokes are familiar, where Traska has separated itself from the pack is in the details. For one thing, unlike so many other Kickstarter brands with similar stories who have come and gone with barely a whisper, Traska has stuck around and, each year, their watches have gotten better. I finally reached my tipping point with Traska last year, when I picked up a second-hand Venturer ...