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Time+Tide
"Like a scuba diver’s tank in a bonfire, the post exploded."The post The “Dude With Sign” Instagram post that surprisingly offended #watchfam… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jamie sat down for a chat with CEO Simon Philip Wolf V about his company (and his family's) illustrious 190-year-long history.The post Wolf took over Time+Tide’s Melbourne Studio for an intimate chat with CEO Simon Wolf V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Would you believe me if I told you we have never featured a dedicated article about a vintage Nivada Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver article on Fratello? I had to check twice, but it’s true. Let’s fix this with a scarce version of the Nivada CASD. This one is one is ref. 85004/4076, aka the “Orange […] Visit #TBT Why The “Orange Boy” Is The Best Vintage Nivada CASD You Can Get to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
When we build a post on the Worn & Wound website, there’s a box you can check to indicate what type of watch we’re writing about. The options are what you expect: diver, dress, casual, pilot, sport. The list is pretty full. At the bottom, though, sits my favorite option: unique. A watch that doesn’t easily fit into a category, laughs at being lumped together with anything generic. If something is likely to fall in that “unique” category, I’m going to be a lot more interested in writing about it, because it’s almost certainly going to be quite a bit more interesting to discuss than the average new release. That’s certainly the vibe I get from Prevail, a new brand founded by Hassan Madras, a United States Air Force Reserve staff judge advocate for over a decade. His goal with Prevail in part to change how we talk about military veterans in the watch community, and in part to redefine what a military watch can be. To look at these watches, you might not immediately identify them as linked to the military at all, but that’s kind of the point. Prevail greatly expands the definition of a “military watch” based on how these watches are really used, and integrating a modern aesthetic and design language. That design language comes to us courtesy of one of our favorite people in the watch community, Matt Smith-Johnson, who is perhaps better known via his Instagram handle, @teenage.grandpa. Matt has had a hand in some of our favorite watches over the last f...
SJX Watches
While the history of the Rolex diver’s watch begins with the Oyster Perpetual Submariner of 1953, one of the brand’s landmark achievement in water-resistant cases is more recent: the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea launched in 2008 that incorporates the Ringlock system. With the innovative Ringlock system, Rolex surmounted an enduring obstacle in building a deeper-diving watch – a case that grew in proportion to the depth rating. The Ringlock system is a patented case architecture that fundamentally rethought the traditional approach to a diver’s watch, which allowed the Rolex Deepsea to achieve a water-resistance rating of 3,900 m with a 44 mm case. The utility of the Ringlock was proven in 2022 with the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge that took the Oyster case to the limits of horological engineering. Featuring a 50 mm case in RLX titanium, the Deepsea Challenge is water resistant to 11,000 m – the all-time water-resistance record for a mechanical wristwatch. The latest addition to the deep-diving collection, the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea in 18k yellow gold. Image – Rolex A deep history The history of Rolex is inextricably intertwined with the water-resistant wristwatch. Six years after establishing the brand in 1908, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf wrote to Bienne-based movement maker Aegler, “We must find a way to create a waterproof wristwatch”. By 1926, Wilsdorf had achieved his goal with the launch of the Oyster, a waterproof wristwatch which ha...
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Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko SilverWave Diver Here is a fantastic and scarce vintage Seiko SilverWave diver. The SilverWave model is one of Seiko’s earlier sport divers, and is arguably the coolest design. The 36mm steel case has a deeply grooved crown at 4 o’clock, and a snap on case back. There were a few different variations, but this model was rated to a depth of 30 meters. The silver dial has simple stick markers, but the coolest feature is the internal rotating dive bezel. By turning the crown in the ‘in’ position, the internal bezel rotates. This is something Seiko has done on many models, but I think the SilverWave may have been the first. Seller states the watch runs, and it’s in overall great condition for this watch which is usually found pretty beat up. View auction here Benrus Sea Lord Next, a nice vintage Benrus Sea Lord (great name btw), complete with box and papers. The gold plated case is excellent and looks unpolished, and the crown is original and signed with the Benrus “B” logo. The silver dial is simple and clean with a radial brushed finish, with applied gold stick markers and big stick hands. The vintage stretch gold band is most likely a replacement, but it’s definite...
Monochrome
The SeaQ series, part of Glashütte Original’s Spezialist collection, made its debut in 2019, representing the German brand’s interpretation of the classic diver’s watch and drawing inspiration from the Glashütte Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, originally introduced at the end of the 1960s by the East German GUB (Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe). While the vintage Spezimatic models […]
Hodinkee
Plus, a Collecting Advice for a world-traveling free diver.
Worn & Wound
It’s kind of hard to believe, but in the long history of Doxa divers, they’ve never made a dive watch with a lefty crown. That’s a bit surprising only because we tend to associate Doxa with the manufacture of professional grade dive instruments in a way that few other watch brands can match, and certainly there are left handed pro divers out there who could have made use of a destro Doxa diver over the decades (say that five times fast…). Well, it’s a nice time to be a lefty Doxa fan, as the brand has just announced the Doxa Sub 300T Professional Aristera, their first dive watch ever with a crown positioned on the left hand side. It’s a limited edition of 300 pieces, and it’s fitting that the first destro Doxa is a version of what most would consider their core, enthusiast focused diver. Like other Sub 300Ts, this one is 42.5mm in stainless steel with a short 44.5mm lug to lug measurement. Of course we get the iconic orange dial (hence the “Professional” designation) as well as an aluminum bezel insert. It runs on a Sellita SW200-1 caliber with 38 hours of power reserve, and we can assume it’s been rotated and modified to accommodate the left hand crown position (the date remains at the 3:00 position). As a left handed person, I’ve always been kind of fascinated with destro watches, even if I don’t personally see much utility in them. Like most southpaws, I wear my watch on my right wrist. And with a normal watch, the crown is positioned facin...
SJX Watches
Having become the official timekeeper for the most prestigious event in yachting, Omega is a key partner at the 37th America’s Cup now taking place in Barcelona. The watchmaker has just unveiled the Seamaster Regatta America’s Cup, an analogue-digital sailor’s wristwatch. Unlike the earlier commemorative Seamaster Diver 300M, the Seamaster Regatta was conceived as a tool. In fact, it is descended from the Speedmaster X-33 of 1998 that was designed for astronauts. Like the X-33, the Seamaster Regatta is equipped with a quartz movement that combines analogue and digital displays in a multi-function package that includes a chronograph, sailing logbook, temperature gauge, accelerometer, and a regatta countdown. Initial thoughts The Seamaster Regatta is something of an anomaly in contemporary horology. It is a quartz-digital instrument that’s arguably purpose built for professional, yet carries a luxury watch price tag of over US$7,000, making it almost as expensive as the mechanical Seamaster 300M chronograph with an in-house movement. And the Seamaster Regatta stands out as one of the rare recent luxury watches that are quartz-digital, since the heyday of such timepieces was in the late 1990s (the comparable Breitling B-1 was launched in 1998 for instance). By the usual standards that watch enthusiasts use to judge a premium watch, the Seamaster Regatta feels expensive. Yet like the X-33 before it, the Seamaster Regatta appears to be an excellent tool. Moreover, it ...
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Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Seamaster is not only a modern icon among divers’ watches; it’s also the cornerstone of one of the Swiss brand’s most prominent and versatile collections: today’s connoisseur can choose between robust, sporty utility (the Seamaster Diver 300M), nautical-inspired elegance (the Aqua Terra), and understated vintage flair (the Heritage models like the Seamaster 1948), as well as an array of colorways and case materials ranging from steel to titanium to high-tech ceramics and proprietary gold alloys. Nowadays, it can be difficult to believe that such a diverse collection with such a dominant presence traces its roots back to just two groundbreaking models: a post-war gents’ watch from 1948 and its descendant, built for recreational divers, in 1957. MILITARY STYLE Introduced in 1948, the 100th anniversary of the founding of the firm that became Omega, the Seamaster was perhaps always destined to become a mainstay of the Omega portfolio. The watch, however, bore little resemblance to the one we’re familiar with today, the model worn on the screen by James Bond. The “dive watch,” as we know it in the modern sense, didn’t really exist, and the original Seamaster was instead positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the wartime watches it produced for Britis...
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso breaks down and highlights some of his favorite timepieces from Geneva Watch Days 2024, including the Longines Legend Diver, De Bethune DBxs Aérolite, Oris Aquis Chronograph, Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite, and more!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
I found my way into watch collecting in 2014, with the ubiquitous SKX009J. I agonized over spending a “huge” £135 on that watch for days, after scouring the reviews and forums, before pulling the trigger from a certain Asian website. This was where it all began, and for a time, I was satisfied with this fan-favourite diver. 2014, coincidentally, was the year that Tudor came back to the UK, after its global hiatus and slow return to other markets from 2010. I remember seeing the 79220R Burgundy Black Bay for the first time and thinking - “Eww”. It was a gaudy colour, and the hour hand was a stupid shape! Some forgotten cousin of Rolex? ETA-2824 calibre? £2330? No thank you, sir, I have ALL THE SEIKOS to buy, which I promptly set about doing.
Worn & Wound
How does a vintage Tissot connect to Felipe Pikullik and some of the watch world’s most exciting and dynamic young independent watchmakers and brands? If you said through Dutch collector Niels Pedersen, you’d be very much on the right track. Take a quick look over at Niels’s Instagram (@nielsmpe) and you’ll be greeted by a genuinely envy-inducing assortment of watches. Even more remarkable? That each and every watch feels totally at home in Niels’s feed, whether he’s posting a one-of-a-kind piece from an under-the-radar indie, or his latest pickup from Seiko. So what does a collector like Niels look for in a watch? Well, it turns out it’s a pretty simple recipe. “Basically, I’m design-driven, so it has to be aesthetically pleasing. So that’s the first… and I want something that’s simple, fixable, and reliable because I’ve been sending watches back and forth to the manufacturer so many times,” he told me. “Design-driven and something that’s reliable, I’d say.” View this post on Instagram A post shared by Niels Pedersen (@nielsmpe) Just because it’s easy to express doesn’t mean this simple philosophy wasn’t a lesson learned over time. The path that transformed Niels into the collector he is today started at a young age, with a little help from his mother. “When I was a kid, my mom used to travel to Asia all the time for work, and every time she would come home, she would have some kind of knockoff watch, either with Porsche o...
Time+Tide
This distinctive German diver is a refreshing change of pace from the watch world's obsession with demure designs.The post The BWG Isaria is an example of pure individuality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Monochrome
Following the relaunch of Rado’s classic Captain Cook in 2017 (first introduced in 1962), the diver’s portfolio has expanded significantly with models like the Bronze Collection and Two-Tone Automatics. This latest variant celebrates summer with a nod to tennis and offers three different straps for a new vibe whenever the mood strikes. It’s not the […]
Time+Tide
Chronographs are expensive, everyone knows that, right? While that's often the case, these affordable mechanical chronographs beg to differ.The post The 9 best affordable mechanical chronographs under $3,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In its latest iteration of the Depthmaster, Swiss watch manufacturer Nivada Grenchen has just released their Purple Ghost limited edition. You may remember this model from last year’s review, but the new Purple Ghost has reimagined the classic diver of the past in a new colorway that’s as interesting as it is, frankly, cool. To begin with, we should mention that the Purple Ghost is a collaborative effort with Naples, Florida-based authorized retailer of some of the world’s most famous brands, Exquisite Timepieces. With its long relationship with Nivada Grenchen, this partnership highlights not only the best of both brands, but also the strengths of each – both separately and together. With Exquisite’s history in the luxury watch space and Nivada Grenchen’s 145 years in business, I’m sure each brand was able to compare notes and bring to market something that’s totally unique in the market today. So, enter the Purple Ghost. As with its previous iteration, you are going to get a lot of distinct personality from this watch. Before we get too far into what makes the Purple Ghost unique, we should take notes of the case. Ostensibly a cushion case, the oversized bezel adds a proportionality to this watch that belies its 39mm size. Like last year’s release of the Depthmaster, this LE comes with some funky Pac-Man-style numerical markings (don’t they kind of remind you of The Rugrats logo – in the best way possible?). Couple that with the vibrant purple Swiss...
Monochrome
Four years ago, Mido livened up its portfolio with a funky multi-coloured reissue of its 1961 Ocean Star Skin Diver with a decompression table on the dial. Modelled after one of the most sought-after vintage models on the collector’s scene, Mido’s re-edited Rainbow Diver sold out briskly. Predicting the same successful course as the earlier […]
Fratello
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar is a beautifully designed annual calendar. Today, we’ll look closer at this 18-carat red gold beauty that blends functionality with an elegant layout. It features a stunning movement that’s put on display on the flip side. Glashütte Original is a brand that brings back fond memories. I was in Chicago with […] Visit Hands On: The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
You could pair a diver with a suit or tux, but this is why you shouldn't.The post Dive watches are not dressy, no matter how hard you try appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Bathyscaphe, Blancpain‘s more compact and streamlined version of the Fifty Fathoms, was first released in 1956. Compared to its full-fledged counterpart, with larger cases, more water-resistance and a more instrument-like design, the Bathyscaphe crosses borders and Blancpain uses to bring complications or higher-end materials within a diver’s context. Following the recent introduction of full […]
Worn & Wound
Four years ago, like a phoenix, Nivada Grenchen rose from the ashes to reintroduce two of its most famous watches: the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic. Shortly after, the Depthmaster and the F77 re-emerged, the latter joining the integrated bracelet sports watch craze that has gripped the industry over the last decade. In 2023, in collaboration with Fratello, they launched their Racing Chronograph, a 38mm tonneau-shaped, manually wound watch deeply inspired by the automotive world, mixing many features and design cues from Nivada models from its back catalog. And now, for 2024, Nivada Grenchen is re-introducing the Chronosport, one of their rarest historical pieces. Only ten original Nivada Grenchen Chronosport watches from the 1970s were ever produced, making this model quite sought after by collectors. That is precisely why they have decided to reintroduce it, allowing more enthusiasts to own one. This new model utilizes the same 38mm stainless steel case as the Racing Chronograph. However, the similarities end there. Instead of an outer tachymeter scale printed on the bezel, it is replaced by a unidirectional diver’s bezel. The tachymeter scale is printed on the outer edge of the dial under the double-domed sapphire crystal. The Chronosport’s dial was designed by Jean Singer, who was responsible for the dials on the Omega Speedmaster racing and the Heuer Skipper. Both watches are famous for their good looks and functionality. Mr. Singer knows a thin...
Time+Tide
With a bravely minimal design, this latest, and limited, diver from Héron brings a lot of fan favourite features to the party. The post The Héron Marinor Ghost is an anonymous spectre for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. The post Top ...
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