Deployant
Top 10 most popular posts for 2024
As we close 2024, we reflect on the year. And you told us that you absolutely loved these posts for 2024. Here is the Top 10.
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Deployant
Monochrome
Recap - A Retrospective of 2024 with our Favourite Videos
While the industry might not be in its best shape (all things considered…), 2024 was nevertheless a highly prolific year in terms of new models, with brands once again showing creativity and mechanical ingenuity. As far as things go for us here, at MONOCHROME, and specifically regarding our video production. Over the entire 2024 year, […]
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WatchAdvice
WatchAdvice
Best of WatchAdvice: Hands On Reviews
As the holiday season comes to a head, we’ve taken the time to curate some of our favourite articles from the past. So, curl up close to the fire (or for the Aussies, the air con!) and relax as we give you a rundown of our best Watch Review Articles to date! Here at WatchAdvice, we have a unique opportunity to go out and about with some of the watch industry’s finest offerings. While we have the privilege of wearing timepieces the world over, that doesn’t stop us from giving our honest opinions on them. We always make sure that – while we opt to review watches we actually like – we stay aware of how elusive perfection truly is in the watch world. While this has allowed us to maintain a fairly even opinion of our watches over the years, there were definitely some we got our grubby mitts on that we were sad to see go. Similar to the Best of WatchAdvice: Education article I just wrote, we decided to compile a list of our favourite watches that we have ever reviewed, all for your reading pleasure. So as we creep closer to the new year, relax and enjoy some of our best Review articles to date! Zenith Chronomaster Revival ‘Shadow’: 2020 & 2024 Back in 2020, founder of WatchAdvice Chamath Gamage was able to get his hands on a then-recent drop from Zenith: The Chronomaster Revival ‘Shadow.’ A modern reimagining of a 70s-era Zenith watch that was never produced, this watch was exemplary for several reasons. Its period-appropriate design was faithfully recreated by...
Deployant
Dear Santa: Frank makes his Christmas Wishlist for 2024
Christmas is the season of joy. To a watch enthusiast, hardly anything in this world brings more joy than his or her dream watches. A watch enthusiast also understands that these watches are often not easily attainable. Nevertheless, here at Deployant, we like to dream a little and then leave the rest to Father Christmas.Read More
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000
Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected. Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000. Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph - David Ichim A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” - drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes. The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique. Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator. In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 77...
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Complications
Perhaps echoing the paucity of highlights in indie watchmaking, the best complications of 2024 were not numerous, but those that stood out were outstanding. Vacheron Constantin, for instance, unveiled the most complicated watch ever, while Bovet solved the longstanding problem of summer time across continents in an enormous (and enormously expensive) wristwatch. Here’s the team’s take on the best complications of the year. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst – Brandon Moore The iconic Datograph turned 25 this year, and collectors were treated to three different limited edition variants to mark the occasion. We were first introduced to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary at Watches & Wonders, but Lange was arguably saving the best for last: the first Datograph to receive the brand’s artisanal Handwerkskunst treatment. Featuring a hand-engraved tremblage dial and limited to just 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a fitting way to celebrate a quarter-century of being best-in-class. While not particularly creative, this very-limited edition captures both the magic of Lange and its Datograph perfectly. Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – SJX The introduction to our story on the watch sums it up best: “The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch… the solution is e...
Deployant
Dear Santa: Robin makes his Christmas Wishlist for 2024
We bring back the popular Dear Santa installment once again this year. Here's Robin's horological Christmas Wishlist for 2024.
Time+Tide
New releases from Simon Brette, Richard Mille, Breguet and more
With Christmas nearly here there seems to be no respite from brands releasing new watches, with Year of the Snake releases starting already.The post New releases from Simon Brette, Richard Mille, Breguet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Not Just Pretty Faces: A Collector’s Personal View of Notable Movements
GaryG's thoughts have turned to one major system that is always there, but generally hidden from sight: the movement. Here are a few of his favorites and why. And in the philosophy of putting my money where my mouth is, these movements have appeared in one or more watches that he has owned personally.
Deployant
New: Chronoswiss Delphis Firestarter
Chronoswiss releases a new interpretation of their Delphis jump hour, retrograde minutes watch in a novel case. Announcing the Delphis Firestarter.
Quill & Pad
Mythbusting: 3 Persistent Patek Philippe and Rolex Myths Debunked
The rise of the internet, and the consequent evolution of the watch-watching community, has inevitably amplified the phenomenon whereby certain objects have come to exert an extraordinary hold over the collective imagination. Here, Colin Alexander Smith debunks three watch myths circulating widely and freely online and in print concerning former French president Nicolas Sarkozy's Rolex and Patek Philippe, the Khanjar Rolex Sea-Dwellers, and what in fact Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were wearing on their wrists as they summited Mount Everest.
Worn & Wound
My Year in Watches: From Enthusiast to Employee
Over the next few weeks, members of the Worn & Wound team will offer their own personal reflections on their year in watches. Today, photographer Garrett Jones on turning his enthusiasm into a full time job in the watch industry, and acquiring his grail watch. The last year has been a wild ride, from meeting and joining the team here at Worn & Wound, reaching new heights among the Canadian Rockies, and even buying my long time watch grail, the Omega Speedmaster. I think it’s safe to say that each of these events on their own were major milestones, but the fact that this all happened within the last year is truly mind blowing. In December of 2023, I flew from NYC to Austin, TX to hang out with some friends, and meet the Worn & Wound team. Unknowingly, this trip to Texas would begin a months-long journey resulting in me joining the team full time, something I couldn’t have dreamed of in my wildest imagination. Just about a month after this meeting, I’d have my first article published on the blog, and several more would come out before I joined the team fulltime in May. While most people might feel nervous as they start a new job, I’ve never felt so excited (and nervous) as I did, especially since my “first” day was flying out to San Francisco for the Windup Watch Fair. At that point, I’d already met most of the team, and even worked with a few of them, but this would be the first time I got to truly “dive in” and work alongside everyone. Despite being a...
Quill & Pad
Top 5 Least Useful Horological Complications: and They are All Still Awesome!
In the real world, some complications are pretty useless. And that's not saying they aren’t cool. Here Joshua Munchow runs through his top 5 most useless complications and why they are simultaneously cool.
Worn & Wound
Hublot’s Latest Art Piece is a Big Bang Tourbillon Designed by Samuel Ross
Those who know me personally, and perhaps those of you who regularly tune into the podcast and read my little ramblings here on the blog, know that over the course of the last year I’ve become somewhat disillusioned with large luxury brands and what I perceive as a general stodginess among the big luxury groups. I’m finding that there’s just a lot more innovation and original thought – at every price point – in the independent sphere. Not only that (because it’s really not surprising), but indies are truly having a moment. They aren’t just more interesting and “better” in most metrics than big group brands, they are peaking, and perhaps in the midst of a new golden age of boundary pushing watchmaking. But, of course, there are exceptions. There are still mass market brands that get me excited by taking risks and doing things that are inherently not mass market, and Hublot has long been Exhibit A. This is a brand that was unfairly maligned for a long time by the enthusiast community, but as the pendulum has swung from straightforward sports watches to more creative and inspired designs, many have come to appreciate the pure originality at Hublot. If I didn’t know better, it would be easy to assume they were an indie themselves. Something that Hublot does better than just about any other brand, indie or otherwise, is position their watches as works of art. There’s probably a real debate to be had about whether watches, particularly modern watches prod...
Worn & Wound
A New Nomos Club Sport in a Smaller 34mm Case
Over the years, my feelings about Nomos have become more and more complex. Like many enthusiasts, the brand was an early discovery on the forums, and felt like an insider’s secret of sorts. Here was a small firm based in the historic German watchmaking community of Glashitte making interesting, immediately identifiable watches with in-house components at an approachable price point – Nomos felt like the primary counter example to the purists who insisted you had to spend well into the five figures for real watchmaking. In recent years, the brand has grown considerably, radically expanding their catalog to include a variety of sportier references in larger sizes, as well as widely proliferating their excellent ultra thin automatic in-house movement throughout their collection. Watches made by Nomos are objectively good. They are well designed, attractive, colorful (or not) and made to exacting standards that ensure they can be treated like the heirlooms the brand has always implied they are through the suggestion that engraving an important message on the caseback is part of the Nomos experience. But Nomos, in comparison with other brands most would identify as their peers, have been treading water in terms of the introduction of new products. Is that a fair criticism? It might not be. After all, if a Nomos (or any watch) is meant to be a purchase that stays with the owner (or the eventual recipient) for decades, constantly releasing new watches to keep up with a manu...
SJX Watches
Zenith’s 1/100th Second Chronograph Inlaid with Tiger’s Eye
Zenith has given its 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 21 an unusual attire – pusher protectors and a dodecagonal bezel in tiger’s eye mineral stone. Matched with a dial featuring tiger stripes and green accents, the Defy Extreme Jungle retains the trademark double balance wheels of the model. The movement features a conventional timekeeping balance operating at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), and a smaller regulator for the chronograph that beats 10 times as fast, 360,000 beats per hour or 50 Hz, enabling the chronograph to record times with a resolution of up to to 1/100th of a second. Initial thoughts I have long thought that the Defy Extreme was too similar to other, more famous oversized sports chronographs, that is, until I actually got to try on the Defy Extreme Jungle in person. The new Defy still evokes other designs, but it is finely executed, with the minerals stone inlay being notably well done. At the same time, the tiger’s eye elements add some originality to the design, so this easily stands out as the most interesting model in the Defy line. The tiger’s eye components, especially since they are prominently positioned, are likely more fragile than the same on the equivalent titanium model, but they add texture and colour so are arguably worth the sacrifice of practicality. At US$26,900, the Defy Extreme Jungle is pricier than the average Zenith chronograph, but still a reasonable proposition given the exotic material and 1/100th of a second movement. Tige...
Time+Tide
Why modern finishing is often just a poor excuse for lack of detail
Here is how to do "modern" finishing right.The post Why modern finishing is often just a poor excuse for lack of detail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: 140 Years Of Breitling With Fred Mandelbaum
This week on Fratello Talks, we’re talking all things Breitling with author, collector, and brand historian Fred Mandelbaum. Nacho and RJ join Herr Mandelbaum in a conversation that starts in the early 20th century with some of Breitling’s earliest wrist-worn chronographs and spans the brand’s development to the present day. We touch upon the evolution […] Visit Fratello Talks: 140 Years Of Breitling With Fred Mandelbaum to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Vyntage Horology Debuts Time-Only in Tantalum and Onyx
Vyntage Horology is a micro brand established by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East watch retailer giant best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. Vyntage has so far focused on small-run limited editions, with the latest being the Purity Tantonyx. The 24-piece edition is a time-only executed in a novel combination of exotic materials: a tantalum case with a polished black onyx dial. Inside is a manual-wind La Joux-Perret LJP7380 with a 90-hour power reserve that’s rotated 45 degrees from the usual position, giving the watch its signature four o’clock crown. Initial thoughts On its face, the Tantonyx seems like a familiar proposition from a micro brand. But a couple of things set this apart from the typical offerings in this segment. For one, the materials are unusual, especially at this price point. Granted, the tantalum case and onyx dial make this substantially more expensive than the base model Vyntage watch, but the pricing remains reasonable. The attention to detail in the execution also stands out. It’s obvious in the domed bezel and recessed seconds register (thanks to a two-part dial), but more notable in the finishing of the case, which has brushed flanks and polished tops for contrasting surfaces that are rarely done with tantalum due to its hardness. However, the design is a missed opportunity in terms of minimalism in my opinion. Though the dial is already clean – the model name is Purity after all – I would have gone a step further and eliminate...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Lookbook: KUOE Takes a Down-to-Earth Approach to their Out-of-This-World Sombrero 90-011 Dive Watch
There’s a saying “To know your future, you must know your past”. The new KUOE Sombrero collection exemplifies this very concept. KUOE is a Kyoto, Japan-based brand that looks for inspiration from all kinds of sources-from the colors found within a distant galaxy of stars that’s over 13 million years old to referencing ancient architecture here on planet earth. KUOE also looks to the future by adding their very first dive watch to expand their collection. Called the Sombrero 90-011, named after a galaxy that’s 29.35 million light years away, it comes in 5 out-of-this-world colorways that draw inspiration from each of these various points of inspiration. Just as the Sombrero galaxy stands as one of the most resilient and captivating formations in space, the KUOE Sombrero 90-011 is designed with exceptional durability, featuring 200 meter water resistance, an AR coated sapphire crystal, a Miyota Cal. 9039 movement, and a magnetic-resistant case. This watch, engineered for the most extreme conditions, mirrors the vastness and strength of its celestial namesake, crafted with precision and care in KUOE’s Kyoto workshop for those who seek both form and function. The 38mm case and warm, subtle tones make the Sobrero 90-011 a clear, down-to-earth for your next everyday wearer. The post Lookbook: KUOE Takes a Down-to-Earth Approach to their Out-of-This-World Sombrero 90-011 Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Ref. 5208R Grande Complication Reviewed by Tim Mosso
The Patek Philippe 5208R is exceptional, even by the perception-warping standards of a watch industry insider like Tim Mosso and here he explains why.
Worn & Wound
Micro-Brand Digest: New Watches from Japan, Australia, Singapore, and More!
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of new micro-brand news we’re following. This includes promising concepts, Kickstarter launches, restocks, and everything in between. Worn & Wound was founded over 10 years ago to support small independent companies and affordable micro-brands, and our passion for these brands remains strong. Here’s what has caught our attention this month. If you come across a project that qualifies for our roundup, please email us at info@wornandwound.com to be included. Houtman Watch Jason Liddell grew up in Western Australia and has always deeply appreciated the great outdoors. He is particularly fond of the iconic regions and landmarks in Western Australia, including the Murchison River and the Pilbara. Houtman Watches is named after the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, charted by the Dutch sailor Frederick de Houtman in 1619. The Houtman Abrolhos is the southernmost true coral reef system in the Indian Ocean and comprises a stunning chain of 122 islands along with their associated reefs. The first two series have been named after the rivers mentioned earlier, and their most recent collection is called the Murchison. This series showcases four dial and hand configurations, which include two field/dress watches, one field/sport watch, and one pilot watch. All these watches have a stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm, a thickness of 11.5mm, and a length of 48mm from lug tip to lug tip. The interior width measure...
Worn & Wound
Deep Discounts, A Free Watch Case, And More Ways To Save
It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. The post Deep Discounts, A Free Watch Case, And More Ways To Save appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Review
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe used to be seen as something like a younger sibling to the classic Fifty Fathoms but after more than a decade in production (of the current iteration, at least) I would now classify it as the more modern sibling. The clean lines and sleek angles work particularly well in what is typically the bulkier category of diver chronographs, let alone flyback chronographs. But, the Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Chronograph seen here, done in a ceramic case and green colorway, manages to exceed expectations and defy any baggage or preconceptions the category may bring with it. One thing you won’t get from the images alone is just how lightweight the watch is, due to its black ceramic case. Ceramic is one of my favorite materials for a watch case (in addition to titanium) not just because of the weight but also the scratch resistance that comes with it. It also looks great, especially contrasted against that wonderfully vibrant green used on the dial and bezel here. Divers' chronographs are a particular challenge because, well, operating a chronograph underwater presents some serious water-resistance issues. That said, Blancpain is confident in its assertion that the chronograph can safely be activated underwater. And for those not familiar, a flyback is significantly more complex than a typical chronograph because it does not have to be stopped before resetting. While we’re on the topic, the F385 caliber deserves some love because it ...
Hodinkee
House Of Craft: Watch Industry Legend Jean-Claude Biver
In the second of our House of Craft video series, JCB walks us though his career in watches and what the future holds for the Biver brand.
Fratello
A Space-Flown Omega Speedmaster And Glove Up For Auction On December 3rd
Now here is something special! A space-flown Omega Speedmaster Professional 3570.50 and the EVA (Extra-Vehicular Activity) glove it was worn over in space will be up for auction on December 3rd at Koller Auctions in Zurich, Switzerland. Cosmonaut Padalka’s space-flown Omega Speedmaster and EVA glove This watch was on the wrist of cosmonaut Gennady Padalka […] Visit A Space-Flown Omega Speedmaster And Glove Up For Auction On December 3rd to read the full article.
Deployant
Bvlgari inaugurates a new expanded manufacture in Saignelégier
We attended the inauguration of the newly expanded manufacture in Sainglégier in the Swiss Jura on 14 November 2024. Here is our video report of the event.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Malört is Having a Moment, a Very Expensive Banana, and Ridley Scott’s Historical Epics
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The New York Times on Malört Every year, the Worn & Wound team descends upon Chicago for the Windup Watch Fair, and every year, locals tell us that we need to try Malört while we are there. Well, that’s not true: some of them beg us to stay away. As spirits go, Malört is one that has one of the more complex regional reputations, both reviled and revered, and even in our age of contraction, still fairly limited to Chicago and its surroundings. But the popularity of Malört is growing, if slowly. Enough so that the New York Times has waded into the scene, with a fairly exhaustive feature on the liquor. Worth a read for sure if you’ve ever tried the stuff, although we can’t guarantee you’ll want to imbibe after reading this piece. Apple TV+ Releases Trailer for The Studio Whether you enjoy the output of television from Apple TV+ or not, one thing is clear: they have a ton of money to spend. The production values and star studded casts of their original programming is basically unmatched, and that trend appears to be continuing with the trailer for their new series The Studi...
Quill & Pad
New Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion: It’s got a Sting in its Tail!
Urwerk has installed the latest evolution of its wandering satellite-hour movement on the new he UR-150 Scorpion. It delivers a sense of theatre when one hour dramatically transitions to the next.
Worn & Wound
Brellum Introduces a Smaller Version of their Duobox Chronograph
Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, founded Brellum in 2017. Unlike many new brands, they did not pursue crowdfunding but adopted a more traditional approach. The first model released by Brellum was the Duobox, which was covered by Worn & Wound here. Since then, we have reported on several other releases by the brand. However, despite this coverage and similar attention from other outlets, Brellum does not appear to have the same visibility or market presence as many competitors. That is the impression I have, at least. Since 2017, they have quietly expanded into multiple product lines, exhibiting strong and distinctive brand coherence. They have successfully established their brand identity in such a way that their models are instantly recognizable as Brellum watches. In an industry as prolific, diverse, and prone to imitation as ours, achieving a high level of brand consistency is more challenging than one might expect, particularly if your designs are conservative. However, their watches do possess some flair, and all feature high-grade chronometer-certified movements. For 2024, Brellum is introducing a smaller version of their most popular model, the Duobox, along with a new chronograph movement in their collection. Introducing the Duobox 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. This watch is essentially a 39mm version featuring subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Many consider this arrangement more aesthetically pleasing than the standard ETA/VJ7750 dial layo...