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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Introducing: Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 'Secret Honey' Hodinkee
Massena Lab 57.09 Secret Honey What Oct 14, 2026

Introducing: Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 'Secret Honey'

What We Know It's been five years since Ming and Massena Lab released their first collaboration. In that time, both Ming — the Malaysian-born microbrand founded by Ming Thein — and Massena Lab — the concept studio and curatorial brand created by collector William Massena — have grown and evolved somewhat dramatically, with Ming having moved through several generations of iteration, and Massena having worked with a somewhat staggering number of brands. Now, with each brand having grown up quite a bit, they've come back together to announce the Ming x Massena Lab 57.09 Secret Honey. The new watch, built on Ming's latest design platform, is a time-only watch that evokes similar ideas to the two brands' first collaborative effort half a decade ago, but updates them, bringing to the new watch many of the tricks Ming has developed over the last few years. Put another way, this is still a honeycomb-dialed Ming, just with a little more cheek. Here, Ming has blended the honeycomb concept with their multi-layered "secret" dial to create something dynamic and fun, with a lot of the charm of midcentury favorites in an undeniably contemporary package. Like so many Mings, the dial here is multi-layered, with a dark brown lacquered base dial sitting below a trio of rotating sapphire discs, each of which rotates at a different rate. These three discs are perforated with a different pattern and finished in a different color, with the bottom two layers finished respectively in orang...

Jaquet Droz Unveils Pièce Unique for TimeForArt SJX Watches
Blancpain Oct 14, 2026

Jaquet Droz Unveils Pièce Unique for TimeForArt

The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Les Volumes du Temps is a unique watch created for the upcoming TimeForArt charity auction, penned by a student artist at the Académie de Meuron. Its dragging hour and minute discs depart from conventional hands, while the sculptural dial showcases the elaborate enamelling for which Jaquet Droz is known. Jaquet Droz CEO Alain Delamuraz (left) with Fiona Djukanovic (centre) Initial thoughts The Petite Heure Minute Les Volumes du Temps draws on Jaquet Droz’s expertise in métiers d’art, particularly grand feu enamel, to support a worthy cause. It differs from the brand’s familiar format primarily through its dial, designed by Fiona Djukanovic, a student at the Académie de Meuron in Neuchâtel. Its X-shaped composition reveals two apertures, one for the dragging hours and another for the dragging minutes. The display borrows its functionality from the Ophidian Hour introduced last year, with a module fitted to a variant of the familiar Jaquet Droz cal. JD2653. Both the hour and minute discs advance gradually, rather than jumping between numerals. The movement is a descendent of the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1150, a twin-barrel architecture that has provided good service to brands like Blancpain and Urban Jürgensen for nearly 40 years. Beyond this functional change, Ms Djukanovic’s design combines shades of blue with champlevé and flinqué enamel over hand engraving, emphasising the depth and volume of the dial’s architecture. Des...

Our Day at WARO 2026: 19 Crazy Cool Watches WatchRider
Isotope Moonshot Horizon Oct 13, 2026

Our Day at WARO 2026: 19 Crazy Cool Watches

On 11 October 2026 we went to WARO, the Romanian Watch Fair, at Novotel Bucharest City Centre and saw a lot of seriously cool watches. There were established names, smaller independent brands and designs that looked very different from the watches we usually see every day. We filmed a short video of some of the pieces we saw and tried. Unfortunately, we arrived late and could not get good shots of all the cool watches. The event brought together more than 35 exhibitors. Below are 19 brands we saw and photographed, with a closer look at their watches. Some of the cool watches we saw and tried at WARO 2026. Isotope: Moonshot Horizon The Isotope Chronograph Moonshot Horizon makes quite an entrance with its cyan blue dial, orange rings and orange strap. The three silver aluminium Moondiscs partly cover the chronograph registers, giving the dial a depth and shape that you do not usually see on a chronograph. Isotope is an independent English brand founded in 2016 and this is a good example of its willingness to do things differently. A Swiss automatic chronograph movement powers the watch inside a 41 mm Grade 5 titanium case, with production limited to 30 pieces. We filmed it on the orange FKM strap, which brings the whole colour combination together. Isotope Chronograph Moonshot Horizon on the wrist at WARO 2026. Site: Isotope · Instagram: @isotopewatches Mezei Watch Company: Midnight Fumé Limited Edition The Mezei Midnight Fumé Limited Edition takes a quieter approach, but...

Talking Watches: With Eric Wind & Charlie Dunne, Where Every Watch Tells A Personal Story Hodinkee
Rolex Oct 13, 2026

Talking Watches: With Eric Wind & Charlie Dunne, Where Every Watch Tells A Personal Story

For Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne, watches connect them to the past and help them build lifelong relationships with others. For the first time in Talking Watches, Ben sits down with two guests to discuss how a passion can be learned, sharpened, and passed along. The watches they bring not only reveal the charming details that define an exceptional vintage watch, but also the friendships and experiences that give collecting its meaning. There's *a lot* of inside jokes in this episode. Most of them on the casebacks. Longtime Hodinkee readers need little introduction to Eric. Before Wind Vintage, before Christie's, and before his many appearances in Reference Points, he was one of the site's earliest and most prolific contributors. Through Bring A Loupe, auction coverage, and deeply researched stories, Eric helped introduce a wider audience to the nuances of vintage collecting.  His enthusiasm could make an obscure chronograph as compelling as a six-figure Rolex, and his scholarship gave collectors the tools to distinguish a merely old watch from an exceptional one. Since founding Wind Vintage in 2017, he has continued to approach the category with the same curiosity, exacting eye, and belief that great watches can be found at nearly every price. The Wind Vintage duo. Charlie entered the watch business through a different route. Before entering the trade, Charlie was a collector of watch books and a researcher; in 2021, while working in digital marketing, he used several weeks...

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2026

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO

The MB&F; LM1 EVO brings back the original Legacy Machine (LM) in a smaller, sportier case, with improved shock protection, water resistance and a revised movement. Fifteen years after the LM1 established the LM collection, the EVO preserves its distinctive dual-time layout and suspended balance while making it more suited to the demands of daily wear. Initial thoughts I still remember seeing the LM1 for the first time when it launched in 2011. Up to that point, MB&F; had spent six years developing its identity around the futuristic Horological Machine (HM) collection, and the brand’s original take on traditional watchmaking came as a surprise. The LM1 established what is now the Legacy Machine collection, which began as a thought experiment about what kind of watch founder Max Büsser might have designed had he been born a century earlier. The original LM becomes the fifth MB&F; platform to get the EVO treatment, after the LM Split Escapement, LM 101, LM Perpetual, and LM Sequential (in both regular and flyback configurations). It follows the same script as its predecessors, with a polished titanium (or 18k rose gold) case, proprietary rubber strap, and the brand’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, which helps take the edge off severe impacts. The EVO case is also water resistant to 80 m thanks in part to twin screw-down crowns. Of course, it’s a manually wound movement, which means the threads will se a lot of action assuming the watch is worn regularly. Fortunately, ...

Introducing: Garmin Marq 3 (Live Photos) Hodinkee
Oct 13, 2026

Introducing: Garmin Marq 3 (Live Photos)

What We Know When Garmin launched the Marq collection in 2019, it answered what Garmin customers had been asking for: a premium product with top-end engineering. With today's launch of the third generation, Garmin is pushing that idea further. The collection debuts six new watches—the Marq Adventurer, Athlete, Aviator, Commander, Diver, and Golfer—offering something for everyone. The Marq 3 Diver. Before we get into the six variations, we need to start with the 47mm case, because much of what's new comes from how it's built. Garmin uses a process it calls nano molding technology, which bonds a glass-filled polymer to the titanium at the nanoscale. The polymer sections at the top and bottom of the case give the antennas a non-metal window for transmission, and because the bond needs no gasket, it produces a thinner case. Garmin says that is what made room for the LTE and satellite radios on top of GPS, Bluetooth, and Wi-Fi. On the left, the Marq 3 Adventurer, on the right is the Marq 3 Golf. It also removes the five button holes in the Gen 2 case. A polymer wall seals the case, and an inductive sensor behind it registers each press, with a tactile element on the outside for the click. Garmin's point is that the crown and pushers are the usual failure point on a dive watch, and here nothing passes through the case. The process also forced a change to the Commander's DLC coating, which is normally applied at a heat that would deform the polymer, so Garmin moved to a lower...

SJX Podcast: Time for Quartz? SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s new Gondolo “Ladies Oct 13, 2026

SJX Podcast: Time for Quartz?

A Cartier Cheich selling for US$3.38 million has put quartz in the spotlight, but does the huge result mean much for the broader market? On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, we discuss the appeal of unusual Cartier shapes and why Patek Philippe’s new Gondolo “Ladies First” makes a practical case for quartz at the high end. Brandon also shares impressions from a visit to Manufacture La Joux-Perret, where solar quartz calibres account for a quarter of annual movement production. Despite the Citizen-owned manufacture’s Japanese technical foundations, these calibres are almost entirely Swiss-made, with more hands-on assembly than one might expect. We also discuss A. Lange & Söhne’s upcoming Singapore exhibition, dedicated to chronographs and classic cars. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Knicks In Five, But Movados In ’99 Worn & Wound
Ming up short Oct 12, 2026

Knicks In Five, But Movados In ’99

By all accounts, the city of New York is still abuzz from its first NBA Championship in five decades. I’m not a local, but friends and basketball media alike recount stories of New Yorkers in Knicks gear fist-bumping on sidewalks as late as August, and “Knicks in five” has become a kind of shorthand between fans in this summer of celebration.  The street parties and champagne may have dried up, but you can bet that “Ring Night” at MSG will be a hot ticket come October, when the 2026-27 NBA season kicks off, and the Knicks’ title defense starts.  Truly, these are salad days for Knicks fans. A world removed (save for their mentions in a moving speech by the mayor) from the last, almost-great team that captured the city’s collective heart. That 1999 squad – forever known for Houston’s 0.8-second shot, LJ’s 4-point play, and Ewing’s Achilles tear – was about as beloved as a runner-up can be. And in a fascinating twist, it was memorialized by a commemorative Movado, given to players and team personnel, that time almost forgot.  The ’90s Knicks Were Out in Five  Throughout the 1990s, the New York Knicks were about as good, and consistently good, as a non-championship team can be. Led by one of the sport’s all-time greats in Patrick Ewing, the decade saw the Knicks lose to the eventual NBA champion five times, including coming up short in two finals runs against the ’94 Houston Rockets and the ’99 San Antonio Spurs.  The incredible, almost-t...

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At Bangkok Watch Week 2026 Hodinkee
Oct 12, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At Bangkok Watch Week 2026

Last month, I spent an incredible week in Thailand for Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week. Over a week of talks, panel discussions, and brand presentations (some moderated by yours truly) organized by the team at Siam Piwat, there was no better way to discover a whole new side of watch collecting. Spending more time in Southeast Asia has always been at the top of my list, because I think the region brings together some of the most diverse and interesting tastes in watch collecting. Most special of all is finally meeting so many watch nerds that I've connected and chatted with online for years, along with making many new friends. It's these moments that remind you how small this little world is, and how it's the people and not necessarily the watches that make this space so interesting. Image courtesy Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week. Bangkok Watch Week wrapped up its weeklong watch fest with one big hurrah—a sort of after-party. This "Asia-Pacific Get Together" was what I had been looking forward to the whole time—just a big ol' gathering of watch collectors from all over Asia, descending upon an open bar and having a fun time. But while I spent a lot of time chatting with so many folks, I was still on the clock, after all, and got to do some fun watch spotting with my camera during the whole thing. So I hope you enjoy seeing so many fun—and sometimes insane—watches. Happy scrolling through the sea of wristshots. And for those who I got to meet and connect with at Bang...

Toledano & Chan Dazzles with their Latest Release Worn & Wound
Ming more Oct 12, 2026

Toledano & Chan Dazzles with their Latest Release

Toledano & Chan has introduced their latest release, the B/1 Dazzle. Eagle eyed GPHG watchers might have gotten a small tease of this one when nominations were released a few months back (it’s fairly routine for brands to submit embargoed watches, and they’re often revealed before the official launch as part of the GPHG voting process), but now the cat is fully out of the bag. The Dazzle is actually a pair of watches, both using Toledano & Chan’s now familiar case architecture inspired by the former Whitney Museum building, designed by Marcel Breuer, and Brutalist forms and ideas more generally. Now with several distinct releases under their belt, it’s becoming more and more interesting to see how Toledano & Chan iterate on this platform. The Dazzle might be my personal favorite of the executions of this case design to date.  The idea for the Dazzle comes from camouflage used on battleships during the first World War. The so-called “dazzle” camouflage design was not meant to conceal, but to use complex geometry to confuse the enemy by disrupting proportion. The alternating black and white bars painted onto a ship that’s in constant motion would have been difficult for an adversary to pin down. The dazzle design language has been used in art and design for many years since, including on watches, but Toledano & Chan’s version plays with the idea in a few interesting ways that I haven’t seen before.  Like the most recent B/1 releases, this one is in titani...

Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick? Fratello
Oct 12, 2026

Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick?

These days, “finishing” is a buzzword. Talk to fans of high horology, and you will most likely hear terms like “anglage,” “black polish,” and “perlage.” It seems like everything is about finishing nowadays, which made a master watchmaker tell me that decorating every last piece of a movement is not the essence of watchmaking. He […] Visit Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick? to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Vs. Spectre Edition Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Oct 11, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Vs. Spectre Edition

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a vodka martini, shaken, not stirred. In this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we end a busy Bond week with a battle between good and evil. On Monday, Omega released a duo of new Seamasters to celebrate Global James Bond Day on October 5th (chosen because it marks the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Vs. Spectre Edition to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New KUOE Watch Coming to New York’s Wind Up, A Toyota-Inspired Collection, and a Set of Cycling Bags Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 10, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New KUOE Watch Coming to New York’s Wind Up, A Toyota-Inspired Collection, and a Set of Cycling Bags

Beams x REI Co-op Expedition Parka My husband and I were debating what to call my personal style over the weekend and, unfortunately, neither of us had anything positive to say. The best we could come up with was “Chandler from Friends with a maxed-out credit card.” Part of the reason is that I’m not adventurous. Even my “nice” clothes look like something from the Gap that my mom bought me before my sophomore year. I have, in short, no courage to branch out of the ’90s, I guess you could say. But maybe that’s not a total loss. I just need to take my sartorial time machine back to 1986. That’s when REI first released its Expedition Parka, and BEAMS has brought the style back for a new collaboration, limited to 500 pieces. The new version keeps the oversized shape and bright color blocking of the original, while updating the construction with a two-layer Windstopper by GORE-TEX Labs shell and 650-fill down. The BEAMS x REI Co-op Expedition Parka is available now for $599.   KOUE’s Royal Smith 90-006 Large, New York Limited Edition Who’s getting excited about Windup next week? And who’s even more excited now knowing that KUOE Kyoto is bringing a 50-piece limited edition to New York? The Royal Smith 90-006 Large, New York Limited Edition pairs the waffle dial from the 90-006 with the Dauphine-style hands from the discontinued 90-005, along with a cream dial, silver case and brown leather strap made in Italy. The case comes in at 39mm, while inside is the...

Raymond Weil’s New Limited-Edition Freelancer World-Traveler Actually Makes You Feel Like One Fratello
Raymond Weil s New Limited-Edition Freelancer Oct 10, 2026

Raymond Weil’s New Limited-Edition Freelancer World-Traveler Actually Makes You Feel Like One

Today marks 50 years since the Raymond Weil brand was established in Geneva. Coincidentally, it’s also the late founder and namegiver’s 100th birthday. To celebrate these joyful events, Raymond Weil unveiled the new Freelancer World-Traveler limited edition. The new Freelancer introduces a bidirectional bezel for operating the city ring and a stamped, textured relief world […] Visit Raymond Weil’s New Limited-Edition Freelancer World-Traveler Actually Makes You Feel Like One to read the full article.

Five Watches to See at Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Oct 10, 2026

Five Watches to See at Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026

The Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 is a Patek Philippe extravaganza that’s on show until October 18 at CityOval, a restored 1920s sporting complex. Hundreds of timepieces populate the over-30,000 sq ft space, including 99 from the venerable Patek Philippe Museum. But some watches stand out, for reasons ranging from artisanal beauty to historical significance – here’s five worth paying attention to. Starting with the present day are a duo from the Rare Handcrafts collection put together specifically for this event. These are proof that beauty is both rare and expensive – each is a one-off and costs about US$800,000. The first is the Rare Handcrafts Pocket Watch ref. 995/147G-001 “Venetian Cruise” that is literal: the reverse depicts a journey across the waters of Venice from the perspective of a passenger on a runabout, perhaps a Riva. The scene is something of a modern riff on classical painting depicting the entrance to the Grand Canal of Venice. The wood deck of the boat is actually wood – the dial has over 330 pieces of wood forming the marquetry motif. The lake and buildings, which include the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute, are in miniature enamel painting. The juxtaposition of techniques and intricacy of the work make this a particularly compelling piece. In contrast, the front of the watch is functional and almost no-frills, yet entirely appropriate. The dial is modelled on the instruments on the dashboard of a boat, explaining the funct...

World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage SJX Watches
De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet Oct 10, 2026

World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage

Today marks the second annual World Watch Day, celebrated on October 10 in a clever nod to the familiar “10:10” depiction of watch hands. This year’s theme, “Time as Living Heritage”, puts the people of Sainte-Croix at the centre of the occasion. A training course at Association Mec-Art Marking the event, our founder SJX participated in a round-table discussion about preserving and passing on the skills of both watchmaking and mechanical art. The panel included De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet and automaton maker François Junod, who helped establish the Association Mec-Art, watchmaker Vianney Halter, The 1916 Company’s Tim Mosso, and Karin Alexandrian of the Musée des Arts et Métiers. Europa Star’s Pierre Maillard moderated the conversation. Denis Flageollet of De Bethune co-founded the Association Mec-Art in 2016 with automaton-makers François Junod and Nicolas Court The organisers, Association Mec-Art and the Musée de la Mécanique d’Art et du Patrimoine de Sainte-Croix (MuMAPS), work to safeguard the traditions explored in our earlier story on the unique skills being preserved in Sainte-Croix. These extend beyond watches to music boxes, mechanical singing birds, and automata. Mec-Art helps keep the skills alive through creative projects and practical courses, while MuMAPS is the local museum dedicated to mechanical art and the town’s heritage. The shared challenge is to ensure that future generations can still make and repair these objects, ...