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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Mystery Complications — H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux May 10, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Mystery Complications — H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

Another week is in the books, and the buzz from a surprisingly bold Watches and Wonders still lingers. Outside the major brands, the show delivered genuine innovation. Highlights ranged from Armin Strom’s on-demand 12:59-chiming minute repeater to Zenith’s practical and deeply satisfying Zenclasp for the Chronomaster Sport Skeleton. For week 19, we shift focus to […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Mystery Complications — H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum Vs. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux to read the full article.

What Does Antiquorum Have On Auction That Might Fit Your Budget? Fratello
May 9, 2026

What Does Antiquorum Have On Auction That Might Fit Your Budget?

Another auction week in Geneva is upon us. That means most of the attention goes to the big lots that fetch the big bucks. But there’s more to auctions than setting records. Auctions are also a way to bump into childhood heroes, to see watches that got away, or to find an unexpected new love. […] Visit What Does Antiquorum Have On Auction That Might Fit Your Budget? to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Very Cool Wittnauer, a Classic Diver from Seiko, and Funky Longines Comet Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko 4522-8000  Next up May 8, 2026

eBay Finds: A Very Cool Wittnauer, a Classic Diver from Seiko, and Funky Longines Comet

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Favre Leuba Chronograph  Got a nice one to start off this week, this vintage Favre Leuba chronograph. The chunky 35mm cushion case is gold plated, and is in excellent condition. Nice edges and original brushed finish with stainless steel back. The back has the cool Favre Leuba hourglass logo engraved. It has a really nice chocolate brown dial with gold hands and applied gold hour markers. The subdials are also the same color brown, with red accents on the 3 o’clock dial. The large winding crown is also signed with the hourglass logo as it should. The gold and brown combo gives it a rich look. The watch is powered by the venerable Valjoux 23 manual wind chronograph movement. I have a chronograph with the same movement, and I can tell you that it is as buttery smooth as they come. The movement is clean and the watch runs well per the seller.  View auction here Grand Seiko 4522-8000  Next up is a fantastic vintage Grand Seiko 4522-8000 hi-beat dress watch. The 36mm steel case is the epitome of Seiko’s “Grammar of Design” aesthetic, with broad flat planes, razor sharp edges, and a mix of brushed and polished finishes. Often these have been polished, and even the slightest...

Hands On: Niton Prima SJX Watches
May 8, 2026

Hands On: Niton Prima

Recently revived Genevan haute horlogerie brand Niton jumps into the jumping hours market with the Prima — one of the more refined high-end examples of the industry’s latest favourite complication. It features a bespoke, shaped calibre that proudly carries the Poinçon de Genève — true to its inspiration — and is packed with creative choices and features. Initial thoughts Not long ago it seemed like 2025 would go down as the year of the jump hour, but the trend was evidently just getting started. The Niton Prima exemplifies this ongoing trend with surprising elegance and historical fidelity. As a rule of thumb, I view revival brands with a degree of scepticism; I would prefer people make a name for themselves rather than buying one. However, the Niton Prima shows a clear understanding of — and passion for — the source material, so I am satisfied this is not a mere cash-grab. It doesn’t hurt that the watch is excellent inside and out, and while expensive in absolute terms, it is fairly priced for what you get. The movement deserves special mention as the source of much of the appeal, being a true shaped movement — a very handsome one at that — and a competent timekeeper. It is finely finished with a plethora of interesting and clever features, including hidden screws for joining the bridges and mainplate, a small seconds hand that stops itself at 60 after the crown is pulled, and a sonnerie au passage to enhance the sound of the jump hour. Another point i...

First Look: Seiko 5 Sports Field Series SJX Watches
Seiko 5 Sports Field Series May 8, 2026

First Look: Seiko 5 Sports Field Series

Seiko is reinforcing its entry level collection with the 5 Sports Field Series, a range of new models with compass bezels available in a range of dial colours from instrument-like white to brown, which seems to be a popular colour at the moment. While substantively similar to existing Seiko 5 Sports models and equally well priced, the Field Series watches feature serrated compass bezels with a glittering hobnail motif that is both functional — for enhanced grip — and attractive. Left to right: HDB009, HDB008, HDB006, and HDB007. Image – Seiko Initial thoughts The Seiko 5 Sports collection is perhaps the ultimate gateway to watch collecting. It’s the rare entry level watch that could be someone’s last watch as easily as their first. Not everyone is a collector, and some people just want a watch that does what is asked without asking for much in return. The Seiko 5 Sports fits the bill, while opening the door to the larger world of mechanical watches. The Seiko 5 is tangibly appealing in several respects, being one of the most affordable mechanical watches from a fully integrated manufacture. With Seiko, there’s no wondering who made what — the brand even formulates its own luminous compound for the hands, hour markers, and bezel pip instead of relying on the same suppliers as everyone else. Seiko also understands the aesthetic history of the wristwatch because the brand helped write it. This explains some of the subtle details like the tiny serifs on the hour ...

Daniel Roth’s Latest is Extra Plat-inum SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s La Fabrique du May 7, 2026

Daniel Roth’s Latest is Extra Plat-inum

Daniel Roth’s latest addition to its time-only portfolio is the Extra Plat Platinum. A familiar face in a new colourway, the Extra Plat offers the Tourbillon Platinum‘s stealthy look in a more accessible two-hand format. Powered by the DR002 in-house calibre developed by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), this regular production model brings a decidedly subtle look to the brand’s simple dress watch. Initial thoughts It’s been interesting to observe Louis Vuitton’s confident foray into haute horlogerie through the revival of Daniel Roth. Despite the corporate structure, astute collectors continue to speak of Daniel Roth in the same breath as other leading independent watchmakers. To the independent-collecting cognoscenti, the platinum Extra Plat should prove a compelling option – rooted in the early history of the independent watchmaking movement but built to meet contemporary expectations. Following Daniel Roth’s launch of the Tourbillon Souscription, the time-only, manually wound Extra Plat — “extra flat” for non-French speakers — debuted in an 18k yellow gold souscription edition followed closely by regular production models in rose gold, with and without skeletonisation. The new platinum Extra Plat rounds out the set. Combined with the matching dial with contrasting finishes, it creates a rather stealthy profile for this otherwise opulently finished dress watch. Extra Plat-inum The platinum double-ellipse case shares the wrist-friendly d...

Mixed Materials: Girard-Perregaux’s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph May 7, 2026

Mixed Materials: Girard-Perregaux’s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph

Girard-Perregaux (GP) has expanded the Laureato Chronograph collection with an on-trend two-tone model with a brown dial. For fans of the Laureato — or 1970s-inspired sports watches in general — the new steel-and-rose gold reference strikes a balance between casual and luxurious. While not a limited edition, GP intends to start production with a small run of just 50 pieces. Initial thoughts Earth-tone dials seem to be having a moment. As more watch brands continue to explore brown dials and earth tones, GP has jumped in with its own interpretation. Brown can be a difficult colour to pull off, but the glittering hobnail texture of the Laureato’s dial lends this casual colour a degree of luxury and keeps it from looking dull. The new two-tone variant features the same dimensions as its stablemates, with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 12.16 mm. But at a time when watches seem to be getting smaller, the 42 mm size feels larger than ever. Of course, size has its perks — the large dial opening reveals a richly detailed dial, and the 18k rose gold bezel has plenty of personality at this scale. For those who find the size intimidating on paper, the integrated rubber strap should remove much of the perceived bulk on the wrist. Rubber hasn’t always been considered a luxury material, but today it’s an industry staple, and an appealing alternative to the weight of steel or precious metal. The everyday luxury chronograph The Laureato Chronograph is fundamentally a ...

Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Omega Constellation ‘95 Fratello
Omega Constellation ‘95 May 7, 2026

Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Omega Constellation ‘95

In this new series, we will focus on (neo-)vintage watches that can now be found at interesting prices on the secondary market. We will select watches we have come across in our searches for nice pieces or simply those we think could fulfill a certain desire or role in one’s collection. For this first installment, […] Visit Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Omega Constellation ‘95 to read the full article.

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph Among May 7, 2026

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

Among the great surprises from Watches & Wonders 2026 was the Monaco Evergraph from TAG Heuer. The new model not only brought some welcome aesthetic changes to the iconic square chronograph, but also benefits from a core rethinking of the chronograph mechanism itself.  The Evergraph’s movement is notable in many respects, but the most interesting is the use of bi-stable compliant structures for the chronograph mechanisms. Initial thoughts This year’s Watches & Wonders was marked by some interesting developments — not least some renewed emphasis on technical substance from a subset of brands. While mainstream luxury still dominates the market, there was a shift toward thoughtful engineering and incremental innovation that could be felt across many releases. One such remarkably technical release was the Evergraph from TAG Heuer.  While there’s no shortage of chronographs coming to market — from solid entry-level pieces to low-volume artisanal offerings — few are as genuinely forward-thinking as the Evergraph and its innovative TH80-00 movement. The TH80-00 was created by TAG Heuer in partnership with Vaucher Fleurier — a specialist noted for its expertise in chronographs — over a period of four years. TAG Heuer chose the longer road of developing a movement from ground up and not just applying its novel flexure chronograph mechanism to an existing base.  As a result, the brand had a clean slate to incorporate signature elements like the nine o’clock crow...

Just Because: A Few Standout Pieces From Quincy Jones’ Collection Are Heading To Auction Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux World Time Control Shadow May 6, 2026

Just Because: A Few Standout Pieces From Quincy Jones’ Collection Are Heading To Auction

Quincy Jones was an absolute king. He was a towering figure in the music industry, leaving an indelible stamp on popular culture through his producing, arranging, and film score work. From early collaborations with Count Basie, Ray Charles, and Frank Sinatra to producing one of the top-selling albums of all time (Thriller by Michael Jackson), not to mention We Are The World, he made the soundtrack for many of our lives. During a well-lived lifetime spanning 91 years, he was rewarded with accolades, including the entertainment industry grand slam 'EGOT' (Emmy, Grammy, Oscar, and Tony awards).  There were also plenty of watches and jewelry gifted and collected during his epic life and career. Now some of Quincy Jones' unique pieces are heading to auction at Christie's in Geneva this month. We got a sneak preview of some of the catalog, including these three pieces, that the family has consigned. A couple of them were gifts from notable celebrities to Jones. They all give a sense of some of the objects worn and cherished by one of the most important figures in entertainment history.  Girard-Perregaux World Time Control Shadow 'Quincy Jones' Sized at 43mm in diameter with both a flyback chronograph and a worldtime complication, this Girard-Perregaux, dated from 2011, has a lot going on. The beefy case features a smooth black ceramic exterior, a titanium caseback, and an interior housing, in a size and style that's very representative of the era for the Swiss brand. The watch...