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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Complicated Collectors: Lord Sandberg SJX Watches
Sep 21, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Lord Sandberg

This weekend’s results at Sotheby’s Hong Kong typify contemporary interest in independent watchmaking, and in special editions of series-produced watches. In contrast, the Sandberg Collection, assembled by former HSBC chairman Baron Michael Sandberg, paints a picture of another era of watch collecting, when elaborately decorated pocket watches and exotic automata ruled the auction room. The latest chapter in our Complicated Collectors series explores some of the most emblematic pieces of this extraordinary collection. Before it was dispersed at Antiquorum in 2001, the Sandberg Collection ranked among the most ambitious private assemblies of horological art formed in the latter half of the 20th century. Comprising over 400 timepieces, it reflected sustained engagement with both the mechanical and symbolic dimensions of watchmaking. Lord Sandberg, in his office in Hong Kong. Image – South China Morning Post The holdings spanned time and geography, from Geneva enamels and French musical complications to English automata and Islamic and Chinese adaptations, alongside early German and English forms, yet they build a coherent whole.  Instead of building around a single school or brand, Sandberg assembled a collection participating in a larger conversation: between European and Oriental markets, between religious and secular symbolism, and between utility and ornament. Lord Sandberg’s long residence in Hong Kong likely shaped both his access and his perspective. Chinese...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand Vs. Tissot Gentleman 38mm Fratello
Tissot Gentleman 38mm It’s Sunday Sep 20, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand Vs. Tissot Gentleman 38mm

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re pitting two affordable daily wearers against each other. They represent different sides of the watchmaking world, with one hailing from Switzerland and the other from Japan. But both brands have gained a lot of respect from watch enthusiasts […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand Vs. Tissot Gentleman 38mm to read the full article.

Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup Fratello
Sep 19, 2026

Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup

Arctic surfing — why not? And why not do it in style? Charlie, a small independent watch brand from Paris, adds five updated Concordia GMT watches to its lineup, and not only are they adventure-proof, but they also have a certain je ne sais quoi flair. It must be the subtle dial colors of the […] Visit Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup to read the full article.

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Suverän, A Universal Genève Cabriolet, A Vacheron Constantin Overseas, And A Vintage Zenith Chronograph Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Sep 18, 2026

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Suverän, A Universal Genève Cabriolet, A Vacheron Constantin Overseas, And A Vintage Zenith Chronograph

Congrats on making it through another week, Baller, and your reward, sadly, is not more information about an extraordinary new Rolex, nor is it a pretty fantastic video with a legendary rapper, but instead just a quick roundup of some excellent watches out waiting for new owners. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Smiths DeLuxe sold for 6,000 GBP, the Smiths W10 for €1,400, the Gübelin 18k triple-date moonphase remains available, the Universal Genève FS went for 600 GBP, and the Autavias sells today. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. If you've been holding onto an old steel chronograph pusher cap and don't know the case it works with, maybe have a look at this Heuer chronograph (presumably ref. 2444) and consider the JLC Memovox in the same lot an added bonus. Speaking of Memovox (I'm not guessing the plural of that noun), this sure checks a few boxes should you find yourself in the market for a lovely vintage example. I covered a Hamilton Cross Country a few weeks back, and here's a similar example if that one managed to get its hooks in you. For the Beatles mega-fan in your life, this Old England Apple watch is unlikely to be something they've seen (it's also unlikely to sell for less than 3x the €200 high estimate). This Vacheron Constantin 2045 is just lovely; this Corum bears a shocking resemblance to David Bowie's 1979 SNL performance look, and if there's a cooler tropicalized Carrera up for auction this week than this one, I didn't see it. Omega Suverän You'r...

Auctions: Rare And Unique White Gold Cartier Wristwatch Fetches Record $3.4 Million At Hong Kong Auction Hodinkee
Cartier Wristwatch Fetches Record $3.4 Sep 18, 2026

Auctions: Rare And Unique White Gold Cartier Wristwatch Fetches Record $3.4 Million At Hong Kong Auction

A Cartier Cheich, a rare wristwatch awarded as a prize to consecutive Paris-Dakar Rally winners, sold for a record $3.4 million in Hong Kong, becoming the most expensive Cartier wristwatch sold at auction. The record price underscores the surging interest among collectors and speculators for rare models and designs by the Paris-based watch and jewelry maison. One of only five known examples of the Cheich, the watch was produced by Cartier as a one-off, unique piece in 2010, cased in white gold and powered by a quartz movement.  Sold by Sotheby's on the first day of its 'Important Watches' auction in Hong Kong on Friday, the watch spurred a nine-minute bidding war with online, telephone and in-person bidders pushing the price to HK$26,520,000 including fees or about $3,413,124, Sotheby's said in a statement. The result eclipses the $2 million paid for a London Cartier Crash from 1991 at Christie's Geneva auction in May. That watch bested another Crash sold by Sotheby's just weeks before for about $1.99 million.  Cartier Cheich in white gold sold for about $3.4 million at Sotheby's Hong Kong auction.Image: Sotheby's Founded in 1978 by motorcycle racer Thierry Sabine, the Paris-Dakar Rally was a legendary motor sports race of endurance, navigation and mechanical engineering, spanning some 10,000 kilometers (6,214 miles) from the French capital across the Sahara desert to Dakar, Senegal. An early sponsor of the race, Cartier and the brand's then-president, Alain-Dominique P...

F.P. Journe Supports Paris Brain Institute with Unique Chronomètre Furtif SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Supports Paris Brain Institute Sep 18, 2026

F.P. Journe Supports Paris Brain Institute with Unique Chronomètre Furtif

Having recently unveiled a unique burgundy chronograph to benefit the Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco, F.P. Journe is back with the unique Chronomètre Furtif ICM that will be auctioned later this month to support the work of the Institut du Cerveau et de la Moelle épinièhe (ICM), better known internationally as the Paris Brain Institute. The black enamel dial of the CF ICM. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts F.P. Journe is a watchmaker at the height of its market influence, so its nice to see the brand use its considerable power to continue its longstanding practice of contributing to worthwhile causes. ICM was founded by former FIA president Jean Todt, a longtime friend of François-Paul Journe who also informed the concept behind the Centigraphe. The unique Centigraphe from 2016 featured a blue mother-of-pearl dial with the ICM logo at 12 o’clock. Image – F.P. Journe The Geneva-based watchmaker was the ICM’s first private donor, and has contributed significantly over the past two decades. The brand’s first contributions arrived in 2004 by way of a trio of unique Vagabondage watches auctioned by Antiquorum. The three lots hammered for between CHF63,250 and CHF80,500, with all proceeds going to ICM. A unique Centigraphe was produced for the charity in 2016, when it hammered for the equivalent of about US$136,000 at the time. An impressive sum for that era, but a number that highlights just how much demand for independent watchmaking — and F.P. Journe ...

F.P. Journe Supports Brain Research with Unique Chronomètre Furtif SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Supports Brain Research Sep 18, 2026

F.P. Journe Supports Brain Research with Unique Chronomètre Furtif

Having recently unveiled a unique burgundy chronograph to benefit the Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco, F.P. Journe is back with the unique Chronomètre Furtif ICM that will be auctioned later this month to support the work of the Institut du Cerveau et de la Moelle épinièhe (ICM), better known internationally as the Paris Brain Institute. The black enamel dial of the CF ICM. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts F.P. Journe is a watchmaker at the height of its market influence, so its nice to see the brand use its considerable power to continue its longstanding practice of contributing to worthwhile causes. ICM was founded by former FIA president Jean Todt, a longtime friend of François-Paul Journe who also informed the concept behind the Centigraphe. The unique Centigraphe from 2016 featured a blue mother-of-pearl dial with the ICM logo at 12 o’clock. Image – F.P. Journe The Geneva-based watchmaker was the ICM’s first private donor, and has contributed significantly over the past two decades. The brand’s first contributions arrived in 2004 by way of a trio of unique Vagabondage watches auctioned by Antiquorum. The three lots hammered for between CHF63,250 and CHF80,500, with all proceeds going to ICM. A unique Centigraphe was produced for the charity in 2016, when it hammered for the equivalent of about US$136,000 at the time. An impressive sum for that era, but a number that highlights just how much demand for independent watchmaking — and F.P. Journe ...

Watches and Wonders adds 9 more brands to its roster for 2027, answering FounderFest FAQS Time+Tide
Porsche Design Singer Reimagined Sep 18, 2026

Watches and Wonders adds 9 more brands to its roster for 2027, answering FounderFest FAQS

The watch world’s biggest moment just got even bigger. Earlier today, Watches and Wonders announced nine new brands joining its extensive roster of exhibitors: Akhor, Alain Silberstein, Berneron, Breva Genève, Fortis, Kerbedanz, Porsche Design, Singer Reimagined and Stollenwurm. This brings the total number of new exhibitors for 2027 to 13, with Breitling, Damiani, Gallet and … Continued

Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Sep 18, 2026

Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt

Daniel Roth’s svelte time-only watch remains compact but gains presence with the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt. While it is just a cosmetic update, the black dial with “gilt” markings create a high contrast look that is unusual for ultra-thin dress watches. The formal aesthetic on the front is matched by the DR002 on the reverse. Made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the DR002 is a constructed and finished to a high level, continuing the philosophy of the revived Daniel Roth brand, which has been to recreate historical models, but enhanced superior, proprietary movements. Initial thoughts Style wise the Extra Plat is essentially a remake, albeit with nips and tucks to the design. The tweaks to the design are thoughtful but minimal, and preserve the original design. This is not a groundbreaking creation, but it is handsome and intrinsically appealing. This specific iteration is the best looking of the Extra Plat collection to date. The gold-on-black livery is striking. Unlike earlier versions of the model that are more conventional in colours, this is a more powerful combination, but still remains a formal dress watch. Moreover, the “gilt” dial itself is more complex than it appears: the gold markings are not print but instead the solid gold dial base below showing through the black coating. This illustrates the impressive manufacturing quality of Daniel Roth in general, or more specifically LFT. The Extra Plat retails for CHF55,000, which is competitive in today’s hi...

In Conversation with Jeff Koons on His New Collaboration with Hublot Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton Foundation Sep 17, 2026

In Conversation with Jeff Koons on His New Collaboration with Hublot

Watch collaborations have saturated the market in recent years, but when I heard Jeff Koons was getting involved in designing a model, my ears perked up. His Celebration series featuring his Balloon Dog sculptures makes up one of the most memorable works of art to emerge in my lifetime as a child of the 90s. I wasn’t surprised this would be the source of inspiration for the watches he’d create.  The artist and self-proclaimed weirdo in me has always appreciated the daring and disruptive nature of Koons’ creations, but to the masses, they’ve been polarizing. It was clear that his approach to design wouldn’t be the right fit for just any watch brand – it would need to be with a maker who was equally daring, disruptive, and perhaps even polarizing itself. Enter Hublot, who has long received scrutiny for its audacious models that buck Swiss tradition. “I remember maybe about 15 years ago, I was at an event for the Louis Vuitton Foundation, and I had a conversation with Bernard Arnault,” Koons recalls. “He said, ‘you know, Jeff, you should make a watch,’ but we never did. Years later, our sons became friends, and Frederic said to my son Sean, ‘your dad should make a watch – Hublot has a lot of interest in partnering with him.’ And I was really excited about this idea of working with new materials and working with time.” All that said, the goal has never been a shock factor – it’s about authenticity – Koons’ identity as an artist and Hublo...

Fortis, Berneron, and More Join Watches and Wonders 2027, Now Featuring 75 Brands Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Sep 17, 2026

Fortis, Berneron, and More Join Watches and Wonders 2027, Now Featuring 75 Brands

Watches and Wonders 2027 is still months away, but the specifics of the event are beginning to come into clearer focus. News broke this morning that the roster of brands has grown once again, and now numbers 75 in total. It had previously been announced that Breitling (along with their House of Brands cohorts Universal Geneve and Gallet) would be joining the fair, and this morning’s news sees several additional brands joining them that sit across a variety of price points and segments of the industry (including a brand that has attended its fair share of Windup Watch Fairs).  The headline grabbers in terms of participation are likely Berneron and Porsche Design. Porsche Design has grown considerably in recent years with an aggressive release schedule iterating on their iconic Chronograph 1 design. Berneron is arguably the hottest independent brand at the moment, and has been the subject of much discussion just in the last weeks following the public sale of a Mirage for over $500,000 on Loupe This (the retail price sits around CHF 51,000).  While those two brands likely have the highest profiles of the newcomers to Watches & Wonders, there are several others that I think are interesting from an enthusiast and business point of view. Kerbedanz, a Swiss brand that for much of its 15 year history has made custom watches exclusively for private clients, has been making a concerted effort to get their name into the minds of watch lovers this year, exhibiting at Geneva Watch ...

Hamilton Returns To Call Of Duty With A New Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Fratello
Hamilton Returns Sep 17, 2026

Hamilton Returns To Call Of Duty With A New Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm

Do you have October 23rd marked in your calendar? If so, that’s probably because that’s when Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 4 is coming out. Today, however, we see the watch that goes with the video game. Hamilton returns to Call of Duty with a new Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm in black PVD steel. It […] Visit Hamilton Returns To Call Of Duty With A New Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm to read the full article.

Business News: Watches And Wonders 2027 To Feature More New Brands Including Berneron And Porsche Design Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Sep 17, 2026

Business News: Watches And Wonders 2027 To Feature More New Brands Including Berneron And Porsche Design

Watches and Wonders, the year's largest and most significant horology event, held each spring in Geneva, will welcome ten more brands for the 2027 edition, including Berneron, Porsche Design, and Singer Reimagined, bringing the total to 75. This new group will join Breitling's House of Brands, which announced earlier this year that it will participate.   Watches and Wonders organizers said the diversity of the 13 brands attending the show for the first time in 2027 underscores the varied slate of watch industry participants now part of the event, ranging from Rolex, Cartier and Patek Philippe, to now Stollenwurm, an upstart Swiss high-horology marque named for a mythical creature and founded by a former Boston-based biotech executive.   Berneron will also join the roster for Watches and Wonders 2027. Launched in 2022 and led by designer (and ex-Breitling executive) Sylvain Berneron, the brand has earned accolades from the industry and collectors; its limited production, shaped case, and full-gold movement pieces have soared in value on the secondary market. A rare example of the Mirage in 34mm, the white gold Viridian with a chrysoprase dial, sold by the brand to a client for about CHF 51,000, recently fetched $521,400 on the auction site Loupe This.  The Berneron Quantième is the brand's second model line.Photo credit: Mark Kauzlarich  Berneron recently told Hodinkee in an interview that the prices paid for his watches on the secondary market are "unsustainable," and...

Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock Fratello
Ressence s New Type 9 Sep 17, 2026

Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock

Recently, Lex wrote an article asking, “When are watches art?” Of course, there wasn’t a clear answer, as “art” is often an ungraspable concept. However, every once in a while, Benoît Mintiens makes the dial of a Ressence watch available to an artist dear to the Belgian brand. In doing so, he tries to blur […] Visit Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock to read the full article.

Ressence Taps Maze Artist for Latest Type 9 SJX Watches
Ressence Taps Maze Artist Sep 17, 2026

Ressence Taps Maze Artist for Latest Type 9

For the latest installment of the brand’s Art Watch series, Ressence has teamed up with a contemporary Belgian artist for the puzzling Type 9 Jules Wittock. I say ‘puzzling’, because Mr Wittock’s specialty is hand-drawing incredibly detailed mazes, which are both decorative and solvable. By collaborating with Ressence, the artist has devised a clever maze that fits on the rotating dial of the Type 9. Initial thoughts If it seems like you’re seeing more artistic collaborations in watchmaking, you’re probably right. While it’s not a new idea — Swatch released its first artist edition in 1985, just two years into the company’s history — the format feels increasingly common, especially amongst design-oriented brands and independent watchmakers. For Ressence, the Type 9 Jules Wittlock is the latest in a line of artist collaborations, including works with Shantell Martin, Stefan Sagmeister, and Daniel Engelberg. The brand has also worked with designers like Alain Silberstein and Marc Newson — two regular contributors watch-related projects. While most artist collaborations result in a fairly straightforward dial variant, Ressence is perhaps uniquely suited to the format, with its rotating dial capable of creating a dynamic tableau. In this case, Mr Wittock has taken full advantage of this technical aspect of the watch with a functional, hand-drawn maze, complete with a secret message that reveals itself in the pattern twice per day. Fortunately, the pattern...

Business News: FHH Teams With GIA's School Of Gemology And Jewelry Arts Hodinkee
Ming Sep 17, 2026

Business News: FHH Teams With GIA's School Of Gemology And Jewelry Arts

The Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH) struck a strategic academic collaboration agreement with the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and its School of Gemology and Jewelry Arts, aiming to bring more watch industry knowledge, training, and certification to a wider audience. The agreement will have the two non-profit organizations collaborate on educational initiatives, certification, and instruction, using the GIA's international physical and online infrastructure. Founded in 1931 with campus, laboratory, and research center locations ranging from the U.S. and the U.K. to Africa and Asia, from Bangkok to India, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, the GIA has trained more than 200,000 professionals in jewelry and gems.   Johanna Levy, (left) Vice President, Communications & Corporate Affairs, Gemological Institute of America, Aurélie Streit, Vice President of the FHH.Image Courtesy FHH The collaboration could significantly expand the FHH mandate to provide watchmaking, culture, and industry knowledge to more industry professionals, collectors, and consumers, while broadening the GIA's educational scope for professionals in this closely linked sector. "For GIA students and alumni, it's such a great opportunity to be able to access a completely new set of knowledge with watchmaking," Johanna Levy, vice-president of the ESG Programs at the GIA, said in an interview. "There is a desire to learn more, to learn more craft, to learn more in person. So it's really not only to equip our st...