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Le Sentier

Vallée de Joux village; home of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1833 and Blancpain since 1992 revival.

In-Depth: Parmigiani Revives a Louis-Elisée Piguet Grande Sonnerie SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Dec 9, 2021

In-Depth: Parmigiani Revives a Louis-Elisée Piguet Grande Sonnerie

A grand old name in highly complicated movements, Louis-Elisée Piguet was active in the second half of the 19th century and most famous for his grande sonnerie and perpetual calendar calibres. Amongst his clients for ebauches, or movement blanks, were famous names like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin – and his work was perhaps an inspiration for Philippe Dufour in the 20th century. A prime example of one such ebauche – featuring a grande sonnerie and minute repeater no less – was acquired by Michel Parmigiani in the late 1990s. A watchmaker and restorer extraordinaire, Mr Parmigiani and his daughter, Anne-Laure, recently led a project to finish and enhance the movement, resulting in La Rose Carrée, a spectacular pocket watch to mark his namesake brand’s 25th anniversary. Initial thoughts Like the recent Vacheron Constantin Tribute to Johannes Vermeer pocket watch, La Rose Carrée is a masterpiece catered to a narrow audience. There are few collectors of pocket watches nowadays, at least relative to wristwatches, especially pocket watches with seven figure price tags. But inaccessible as it may be,  La Rose Carrée is certainly worthy of admiration. The quality of craft and decoration is par excellence – an all-star team of artisans was recruited to complete it – and the ebauche was a masterpiece even unfinished. Stylistically, La Rose Carrée is also unusual in being more contemporary than the average grand complication pocket watch. The geometric f...

The Story of the World’s Most Famous Reversible Watch SJX Watches
Dec 6, 2021

The Story of the World’s Most Famous Reversible Watch

History’s most famous reversible wristwatch would never have been invented were it not for Joseph Ford Sherer, then a lieutenant in the 44th Regiment of Sylhet Light Infantry of the East India Company’s army. The story begins in the middle of the 19th century in Manipur, a state in east British India, where Lieutenant Sherer observes locals play a game known as sagol kangjei. Translating as “horse hockey”, the game was long played by local royalty. The game has players on horseback wielding sticks to hit a ball across a rectangular field. The Lieutenant reported his observations to his boss, Captain Robert Stewart. The two men eventually began to play the game, which evolved into what is now known as polo. In March 1859 Sherer and Stewart established their own polo club, Silchar Kangjai Club, and four years later the earliest written rulebook for polo was. With that, the pair started a long tradition of polo-playing among British soldiers in India. And soon polo would find its way around the world with polo-playing soldiers across the Commonwealth – the first polo match was played in Europe sometime in the late 1860s. Lieutenant Joseph Sherer, Assistant to the Superintendent of Cachar (second from left), with his bearers, Manipur, 1861. Image – National Army Museum As the game grew in popularity, a problem arose: polo players would often damage the crystals on their wristwatches, sometimes with errant mallets. During a visit to India in 1930, César de Trey ...

The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Dec 4, 2021

The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock

When I was bingeing Squid Game – the record-breaking Netflix series that has become a global phenomenon – I paused the show more than I would have liked trying to figure out which watch lead actor Lee Jung-jae was wearing. To be honest, I still don’t know. But the next best thing would be to figure … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portugieser is having a moment from Squid Game and Hot Ones to The Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 25, 2021

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828”

Just debuted at Dubai Watch Week, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is different from the usual Moser watches. A limited edition with a bronze case, the Since 1828 is styled like an aviator’s watch, with a design that draws heavily on early 20th century wristwatches. The dial is naturally smoked, as most Moser dials are, but in a subtle manner. And in a nod to its own history, the dial bears the H. Moser & Cie. logo in Cyrillic, which before the Russian Revolution was found on most of the brand’s timepieces. Initial thoughts Moser is today best known for its fume dials and Streamliner sports watch, with the Heritage line being a lesser known part of its line up. Still, the Heritage watches offer the usual Moser quality – of both innovation and finishing – in a different package. Admittedly, a bronze pilot’s watch isn’t exactly novel, but it’s atypical for Moser. And it is executed well, with a retro design that features smart details like the wire-like lugs, flat crown, and applied numerals. But perhaps the best feature is the Cyrillic logo on the dial, which is a minor detail but manages to give the watch a different look. And it is historically appropriate, given that the Russian Empire was once the key destination for Moser’s watches. And with a price of about US$18,000, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is a fair deal for a watch with a solid, attractive in-house movement along with a dial and case featuring good details. Atypically Moser The H...

From Zlatan Ibrahimovic to Mark Wahlberg: 8 celebs wearing the hell out of a Rolex Rainbow Daytona Time+Tide
Rolex Rainbow Daytona Bit Nov 20, 2021

From Zlatan Ibrahimovic to Mark Wahlberg: 8 celebs wearing the hell out of a Rolex Rainbow Daytona

Bit of an odd question but can anyone work out the relevance of the March 23, 2018? In a pretty baller move, on that day the football deity that is Zlatan Ibrahimovic was busy buying full-page ads in the Los Angeles Times to announce his signing for Major League Soccer’s LA Galaxy. The ad that read, … ContinuedThe post From Zlatan Ibrahimovic to Mark Wahlberg: 8 celebs wearing the hell out of a Rolex Rainbow Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Nov 11, 2021

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition

Ask any Formula 1 fan who Ayrton Senna was, and the range of emotions they’ll express may leave you perplexed. In the first few seconds, the joy in their eyes may reflect what it felt like to watch one of the most aggressive and talented drivers the sport has ever seen. Eventually, that joy is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X Revolution
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X Nov 9, 2021

Introducing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

Thirty years after the last Countach left its factory, Lamborghini announced a 21-century environment-conscious remake in August this year: the Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4 hybrid. A perfect complement to this insane piece of engineering and design is the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X, the latest creation from the manufacture’s partnership with Lamborghini Squadra Corse.

Auction Report: Only Watch 2021 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically Nov 8, 2021

Auction Report: Only Watch 2021

Only Watch 2021 was a landmark for the biennial charity auction in both scale and value. Organised by Christie’s, the ninth edition of Only Watch just took place in Geneva, with 53 timepieces having been sold for CHF30 million, or about US$32.8 million. Held for the first time in Palexpo, the sprawling convention centre near Geneva’s airport, Only Watch 2021 saw a turnout of over 850 people inside the cavernous room, a massive uptick in attendance compared to the one or two hundred in past years. People and faces Practically everyone who is someone in Swiss watchmaking turned up, including Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe, Frederic Arnault of TAG Heuer, Tudor chief executive Eric Pirson, as well as independent watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Francois-Paul Journe. Even Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of rival auction house Phillips were spotted seated in the room. Some of the boldface names were also bidding on lots in the auction, including Francois-Henri Bennahmias of Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically on the Chanel J12 pair and Jean Arnault of Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps who was after a creation by an independent watchmaker. While there were watch collectors from around the world present – including a contingent from Dubai Watch Club – there were fewer Asian bidders in the room compared to past years, presumably because of the travel restrictions still in place in most Asian countries. That said, many of the crucial bidders from Asia did turn up, inc...

HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm Nov 5, 2021

HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm

They say that fashion trends move in cycles, but when a design remains attractive for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims. The Vacheron Constaintin Historiques American 1921 is unashamedly a period piece, but that’s not to say it belongs to a bygone era. It might look strange … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 2, 2021

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1

Widely regarded as important, the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch was a landmark when it was unveiled in 1992. The first wristwatch to incorporate a grande et petite sonnerie, widely regarded as the pinnacle of complications, the Grande Sonnerie is indeed a feat of miniaturisation, construction, and finishing. And now the very first example is slated to go under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. Initial thoughts Originally conceived as a homage of early 20th century Swiss watchmaking – the very sort of watches Mr Dufour worked on early in his career – the Grande Sonnerie revered today for many reasons, but it really is all about two accomplishments. The wristwatch (left), and its pocket watch counterpart One is miniaturisation – this was the first ever wristwatch grande sonnerie. Prior examples were all pocket watches and correspondingly large. And the second, arguably more important quality, is its movement finishing. Mr Dufour decorated each component of the movement exceedingly well. So well, in fact, that this is arguably better finished than even the finest examples of grande sonnerie pocket watches made by brands like Patek Philippe. In the metal the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch is eminently classical, and also fairly large at 41 mm in diameter. In fact, when it premiered in 1992 the Grande Sonnerie would have been massive – the typical men’s dress watch was barely 35 mm then. The Grande Sonnerie is almost a pocket watch with lugs...

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Deployant
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Oct 30, 2021

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42

The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C

How do you make enough noise in the large microbrand watch scene to be noticed? Do you ride a wave, presenting a design collectors have seen countless times? Do you offer dirt-cheap pricing that leaves many of us wondering how long you’ll even be here? Or do you make something so “unique”, no one would … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch Time+Tide
Seiko H558-5000 Oct 23, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch

EDITOR’S PICK: Today, my brother-in-law, Pete, is doing a 24-hour bike ride to raise money and support of families affected by stillbirth and SIDS. The really crazy bit – he’s doing the entire 500km ride on a stationary bike in his garage (you can sponsor the heroic bastard right here). Anyway figuring he could probably do with a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation SJX Watches
Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation Oct 18, 2021

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation

Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...

Breguet Tradition Reference 7035: Scintillating With Snow-Set Diamonds   Quill & Pad
Breguet Tradition Reference 7035 Scintillating Oct 9, 2021

Breguet Tradition Reference 7035: Scintillating With Snow-Set Diamonds  

When Breguet introduced the Tradition collection in 2005, it took inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet’s souscription pocket watches made back when the famed watchmaker himself was still at the helm. The new Reference 7035 is very much a precious version of Breguet's modern La Tradition with diamonds added to the mix. And they are beautifully snow set!

Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service" Hodinkee
Bremont Oct 3, 2021

Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service"

What is it about spy movies and watches? Bond had his Rolex (and now his OMEGA) and Bourne had his TAG Heuer. Those characters’ movies featured watches as subtle (okay, sometimes not so subtle) product placements. But the forthcoming spy thriller “Kingsman: The Secret Service” not only has watches front and center, its producers and costume designers also actually had three watches commissioned especially for it. Those watches are from Bremont, based on two of the brand’s existing chronographs, but with some unique features and the fictional secret organization’s logo on their dials.

175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: A History Of Fine German Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Oct 3, 2021

175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: A History Of Fine German Watchmaking – Reprise

Watch- and clockmaking has a long history in Germany, as evidenced by the fifteenth- and sixteenth-century timepieces from the Nuremberg/Augsburg area and the academic discussions of Peter Henlein, who is said to have made the world’s first pocket watch around 1505. But the country's roots in great watchmaking do not stop there: Elizabeth Doerr takes us on an historical journey of Glashütte, the birthplace of modern Germany's fine watches.

The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex? Time+Tide
Rolex ? Here’s Oct 1, 2021

The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex?

Here’s a challenge: check your Instagram feed and see if you can go 24 hours without seeing a Rolex. Even though the brand itself post at a rate of once every two to three days, you’ll still find yourself inundated with pictures of dozens of references. Mind you, there is nothing wrong with this. Yet, … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.