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Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time  Ref. 5224R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Jul 11, 2023

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R

Because it has a strongly defined identity and direction, Patek Philippe rarely surprises. The limited editions created for the recent Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, for instance, were interesting and occasionally exceptionally complicated but predictable. However, Patek Philippe did surprise, albeit subtly, at Watches & Wonders earlier this year with the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R. Though the ref. 5224R is typical Patek Philippe in every aspect, from the slim case to the vintage-meets-modern design, it is distinctly different from the brand’s other offerings in both look and feel. Besides the 24-hour dial, a first for the brand in the modern day, the 42 mm case is also oversized by Patek Philippe standards. Despite being novel amongst current Patek Philippe offerings, the ref. 5224R is rooted in the brand’s history, being almost a direct descendent of the 24-hour-dial Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. Initial thoughts The ref. 5224R was instantly appealing when I saw it at Watches & Wonders. It is a large watch, but still elegant. And despite being a relatively simple watch – it’s essentially a two-time zone watch – the ref. 5224R has several interesting features both in terms of design and mechanics. The most obvious is the 24-hour dial. At a glance, it’s a peculiar feature for a modern Patek Philippe wristwatch, but it looks good and actually makes sense. Though it takes some getting used to when readin...

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time Worn & Wound
Jul 10, 2023

Itay Noy Debuts the Seven-Day Cycle Collection, a New Series of Watches that Take Things a Week at a Time

Itay Noy, the Israeli watchmaker known for creative and whimsical calendar complications that take a philosophical view to the concept of time, is back with his latest creation, the Seven-Day Cycle. Announced just days ago and officially launching later this week at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, the Seven-Day Cycle is inspired by the idea of looking at the passing of time on a weekly, as opposed to daily, scale.  The centerpiece of the collection is the “Rest Day” watch. Rather than focusing on a daily progression of time, the watch seeks to visualize a weekly cycle. The day is indicated via skeletonized text around the dial’s perimeter, but instead of the day of the week, Itay Noy has given the days numerical values (first day, second day, third day, and so forth). The seventh day (by default) is marked as the “rest day” at the 12:00 position. Itay Noy notes that different religious traditions observe different rest days, so the rest day on the dial can be customized to the owner’s preferences. Dials are available in blue or white for this reference. The Seven-Day Cycle watch is also available in versions that name the days of the week in a more traditional way. The format, though, is largely the same, with skeletonized apertures spelling out the days of the week that are highlighted day by day as the week progresses. The blue and white dials seen in this version of the watch have dividing lines that should aid a bit in legibility, but all watches in the ...

Step aside About Effing Time – this is my ultimate three-watch collection Time+Tide
Jul 6, 2023

Step aside About Effing Time – this is my ultimate three-watch collection

Building a fantasy watch collection is a fun game many watch collectors play. With so many watches to choose from, and so many collector-personalities to make these choices, it is always interesting to see which watches people select in these horological fantasy drafts. Often, because there are so many options to choose from, parameters are … ContinuedThe post Step aside About Effing Time – this is my ultimate three-watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 4, 2023

T3 Special Watches Introduces Dague Time Dragon and Dague Guilloché

T3 Special Watches made its debut in 2021 with the Dague, a watch designed to embody the aesthetic preferences of its Italian founders, vintage watch dealer Andrea Marzari and watch aficionado Alessandro Poggi. Inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 and livened up with colourful, “Stella” style dials, the Dague has now been given an artisanal touch with the Dague Time Dragon and the Dague Guilloché. The newest iterations illustrate the brand’s ambitious attempts at fine enamelling and guilloché – the brand recruited noted enameller Vanessa Lecci for the cloisonné dial – techniques typically seen on pieces from more established brands.  Initial thoughts In the realm of micro-brands, it is uncommon to find traditional and artisanal guilloché and enamelling due to their high cost. Therefore, it was surprising to see T3 partnering with enameller Vanessa Lecci, renowned for her exceptional work for establishment brands like Cartier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Vacheron Constantin, and Voutilainen. The initial Dague series had a pleasant design that was not truly captivating for anyone not inclined towards a retro, Italian style. However, the new series showcases a significantly more compelling aesthetic. The enamelled dial of the Time Dragon, juxtaposed with the sector-styled outer disc, creates a visually striking contrast highly reminiscent of vintage watches with cloisonné dials made by Patek Philippe and Rolex. It would be exciting to witness the brand’...

Vintage-inspired pieces from Furlan Marri are the latest newcomers to the Time+Tide Shop Time+Tide
Furlan Marri are Jul 3, 2023

Vintage-inspired pieces from Furlan Marri are the latest newcomers to the Time+Tide Shop

Throughout the last few weeks, we’ve brought you funky, affordable, sporty, vintage-inspired and some cult classics to the Time+Tide Shop. However, as a hub of some of the best independent brands in the business, it just wouldn’t do without Furlan Marri – one of the most impressive horological stories of the last few years. Combining … ContinuedThe post Vintage-inspired pieces from Furlan Marri are the latest newcomers to the Time+Tide Shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Head into the Holiday Weekend with a Cocktail Themed Limited Edition from Maen and seconde/seconde Worn & Wound
Maen Jun 30, 2023

Head into the Holiday Weekend with a Cocktail Themed Limited Edition from Maen and seconde/seconde

Do you enjoy medium sized integrated bracelet sports watches? How about classic American cocktails? Are visual puns a thing you’d like to see more of when you check the time? Well, boy do we have a watch for you. Maen is the latest brand to collaborate with seconde/seconde/, Romaric André’s whimsical, joke filled, and increasingly popular design house that manages to find unexpected angles and humor in all kinds of watches. The platform he’s playing with here is Maen’s excellent Manhattan 37, the highly architectural, 70s inspired integrated bracelet sports watch measuring, you guessed it, 37mm across. For this limited edition, seconde/seconde/ is taking inspiration from the classic Manhattan cocktail, finding space for include his signature wit in unlikely places.  Let’s start with the obvious: the dial is meant to evoke the color of a Manhattan, traditionally made with rye whiskey and red vermouth, it has a distinctive red hue. The Manhattan 37 already has a very cool execution that features a Geneva stripe finish, so adding a fun color here is a must, and the finishing technique causes a natural shift in the tone – Maen says it will range from a deep burgundy to purple depending on the lighting. The second hand features a pixelated representation of a Maraschino cherry, the Manhattan’s traditional garnish in André’s signature style, and as a final touch, you’ll see a “% vol” designation next to the “37” within the watch’s standard dial tex...

[VIDEO] The Time & The Case For Strange Watches Worn & Wound
Jun 27, 2023

[VIDEO] The Time & The Case For Strange Watches

We review a lot of watches around here, and oftentimes that means judging them by their practical merits. These are practical tools at their base, afterall, but they can (and should) be more than that, especially these days when we all have quick access to the time on a myriad of devices surrounding us. In fact, if it weren’t for something we find compelling beyond the practical considerations, it’d be awfully hard for any of us to justify our presence here. In this video, we’re taking a look within our own collections at the watches which take a different approach. You could call them 4th watches, weird watches, or simply unique watches, but most importantly, they are watches that bring something a little different to the table. The spaces outside of the well understood genres and established design codes are the realm of the slightly odd, weird, or strange watch. Sometimes it’s a particularly creative solution to a problem, such as the crown lock mechanism of the PloProf, and sometimes it’s more abstract, such as the Fordite dial of the Arcanaut ARC II. Watches of this ilk are testing ideas, and how those ideas evolve or take hold in a broad sense has yet to be determined. The success of these watches is not predicated upon widespread adoption, of course, but rather, in their ability to captivate and provide a more engaging on-wrist experience. When it comes down to it, even if we’re drawn to something like the simple, tool-ish nature of military watches, the...

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 21, 2023

Longines Introduces the Spirit Zulu Time 39 mm

Originally introduced in 42 mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now gets a more comfortable 39 mm case. The new variant retains all the appealing design elements of the original that are loosely inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and a vintage-style, bi-directional bezel. Initial thoughts The Spirit Zulu Time is a great example of how to execute a vintage-style watch. However, a significant drawback was the large, 42 mm size of the original, which was quite hefty on the wrist and not quite suited to the retro style. Longines clearly recognised this issue and responded surprisingly quickly in introducing a more wearable size. While the 39 mm size is certainly positive, the case thickness of 13.5 mm leaves it notably thick relative to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it may feel clunky on the wrist for some. That said, the reason for the case height is fundamental: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original.   Still, the Spirit Zulu Time continues to be an excellent value proposition, starting at US$3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is US$4,200. The fact that the Zulu Time is a genuine GMT with an independent local-time hour hand makes it a standout amongst affordable dual-time zone watches. Although it may fall short in terms of movement sophistication compared to the similarly-priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has the advantage of ...

A. Lange & Söhne invite Time+Tide Club Members to boutique lock-in Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 21, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne invite Time+Tide Club Members to boutique lock-in

On a cool Sydney night, with most of the darkened city preoccupied with the Vivid festival, A. Lange & Söhne and Watches of Switzerland hosted an evening in their Martin Place Boutique for Time+Tide Club Members. The doors were promptly locked, the cocktails were soon in hand, and the objective for all attendees was simple; … ContinuedThe post A. Lange & Söhne invite Time+Tide Club Members to boutique lock-in appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Time+Tide Shop becomes the exclusive Australian retailer of Zodiac – a pioneering dive watch brand Time+Tide
Blancpain s 1953 … ContinuedThe Jun 20, 2023

The Time+Tide Shop becomes the exclusive Australian retailer of Zodiac – a pioneering dive watch brand

The Time+Tide Shop keeps on keeping on, and we’re excited to introduce the latest newcomer – Zodiac. We’ll be offering pieces from all of Zodiac’s modern collections, and do so as the exclusive Australian retailer. A brand nearing 150 years of operation, Zodiac was among the first to introduce a dive watch, matching Blancpain’s 1953 … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide Shop becomes the exclusive Australian retailer of Zodiac – a pioneering dive watch brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time Worn & Wound
Longines Dials Jun 18, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time

The week’s episode of A Week In Watches takes a look at new releases from Longines, Seiko, Rolex, MB&F;, and …Seiko. Yes we’ve got multiple Seiko watches to discuss here and yes, they are both pretty awesome. The sporty theme continues with a new Daytona released by Rolex during the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans. It brings back the exotic dial and nails a lot of details in the process. In what may prove to be more relevant news, Longines has introduced a smaller Spirit Zulu Time GMT, now available in a trim-ish 39mm case. The newest Spirit Zulu Time comes at a perfect time, sitting alongside the 42mm variant we saw released last year. More choices is always better for enthusiasts, and we think you’ll find a lot to love in not just this release from Longines, but what’s yet to come. Don’t miss out live pics of the 39mm Zulu Time in our introduction right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Mido takes it back to the 80s with the Multifort TV Big Date, launching in the Time+Tide shop Time+Tide
Mido Jun 16, 2023

Mido takes it back to the 80s with the Multifort TV Big Date, launching in the Time+Tide shop

It’s the 1970s, and colour TV is the hot new thing, with bulging CRT displays lodged into units that were too heavy to steal. This softly rounded square aesthetic was all the rage, inspiring home electronics, fashion, and, of course, watches. Though many years have passed since, and we moved to the age of folding … ContinuedThe post Mido takes it back to the 80s with the Multifort TV Big Date, launching in the Time+Tide shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jun 14, 2023

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review

The vintage-inspired GMT watch is now available in a new 39mm size, in four distinct colorways including one steel-and-gold version. If you’re like many people who’ve seen the Longines Spirit Zulu Time watch since its initial launch in 2022, you’ve probably found yourself intrigued with its clean, legible dial, sleek-looking bezel, and meticulously finished case, even if you realized afterward that you really weren’t sure what “Zulu Time” was. Good news: we’re here to explain everything you might want to know about the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Even more good news: if you liked the first crop of watches but found them too large for your taste, Longines is now supplementing the original 42mm offerings with new 39mm versions.   First, some background. As those with a background in either the armed forces or aviation (or both) likely know, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for the letter “Z” (like “Alpha” for A, “Tango” for T, etc.) and the letter “Z” is used in military jargon to denote time based on the prime meridian in Greenwich, England, the longitudinal line that separates the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. Essentially, Zulu Time means the same thing as GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) or the more modern term, UTC (Universal Time Coordinated, albeit expressed in a more historically adventurous idiom, and a watch that displayed the time in this manner was particularly useful for early aviators before the rise of electronic guid...

Our favourite Nomos watches of all time Time+Tide
Nomos watches Jun 14, 2023

Our favourite Nomos watches of all time

Considering that Nomos only released their first watches a little over 30 years ago, they have made a considerably strong impact on the watch world. While perfecting a style of minimalism that’s deliberate rather than lazy, the Bauhaus inspiration and high-end German manufacturing have helped their reputation soar among both large collectors and casual enthusiasts. … ContinuedThe post Our favourite Nomos watches of all time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023

Amongst the special editions created for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo is the World Time Minute Repeater Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5531R-014. The ref. 5531R-014 is the more complicated of the two world time models that mark the event – the other is the ref. 5330G – and features a cloisonné enamel dial. The dial continues with the motif first found on the ref. 5531R-010 made for the Grand Exhibition 2019 that took place in Singapore. Its centre is cloisonné enamel depicting a stylised map of the Chuo ward in central Tokyo, including the expansive grounds of Imperial Palace on the upper left. Initial thoughts Unlike the other two Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023 complications – Quad Comp ref. 5308P and World Time ref. 5330G – that are new references containing new calibres, the ref. 5531R is a variant of a regular-production model. So while it less interesting from that perspective, the ref. 5531R-014 is still an compelling watch. The cloisonné map is an unusual motif for a dial, and almost abstract at a distance, but interesting and appealing. The watch does have intrinsic appeal, however, it also does look similar to the ref. 5531R-010 made for the 2019 Grand Exhibition in Singapore. In fact, the two are probably indistinguishable from across a room. Doing something more distinctive, for instance another case metal and dial colour, would have made this more unique. A bird’s eye view of Tokyo The cloisonné enamel dial captures the Ch...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Tokyo 2023

Having just opened the doors of the Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, Patek Philippe also revealed the special editions created for the event, including the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G-10. Limited to 300 watches available only in Japan, the ref. 5330G-010 is the brand’s first world time with a date display. It features a guilloche dial in purple, the thematic hue of the exhibition, along with subtle references to Japan on the dial. Initial thoughts While the ref. 5330G-010 is not the flagship complication of the Watch Art Tokyo 2023 event – that title is claimed by the ref. 5308P Quadruple Complication – the new World Time is quintessential Patek Philippe. For one, the world time complication, though not invented by Patek Philippe, is strongly associated with the brand. At the same time, the date display is both practical and incorporated in an elegant manner, while the mechanics behind the date are sophisticated and thin as is typical of the brand’s approach to movements. Also in its favour are the discreet and tasteful references to Japan on the dial. But while the plum dial is striking and rich, the colour might not be for everyone. But putting aside the colour, the ref. 5330G-010 is an appealing watch. It is limited to just 300 pieces sold only in Japan, which makes availability at retail non-existent for most, but fortunately the ref. 5330 will almost certainly make it into the catalogue as a regular production model, as past exhi...

Arken Introduces their Second Act with the Dual-Time Equipped Alterum Worn & Wound
Jun 1, 2023

Arken Introduces their Second Act with the Dual-Time Equipped Alterum

There was a time a couple years back when the integrated steel sport watch craze had hit peak levels. Seemingly everywhere you looked, each brand had their very own version of an integrated system. For Arken to make their debut in a completely saturated environment with an  integrated sports watch of their own was pretty gutsy, but the Instrumentum wasn’t your typical integrated arrangement. On paper, the diver had one welcome surprise after another: a Grade 2 titanium build overlaid with hardness coating, a depth rating of 300 meters, and a startling $500 pre-order price tag. After you account for its strikingly fierce aesthetic on wrist, Arken’s inaugural timepiece offered up an incredible value proposition that was impossible to ignore. Fast forward to the present day, we find ourselves smack dab in the middle of 2023 and yet another industry trend, otherwise known (and self-proclaimed) as the Year of the GMT. Although the industry got off to a scorching hot start with an array of GMT watches released in all sorts of styles, prices, and various movements at the beginning of the year, it has quieted down a bit, even with Watches & Wonders in our rearview mirror. That is until now, because Arken has returned for their second act with a titanium dual-time travel watch they’re throwing into the GMT ring called the Alterum. At first glance, the Alterum is more refined in nature, but its core design language remains. With the aggressively-styled bezel no longer a part ...

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive Time+Tide
May 31, 2023

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive

Watches and military history have an unbreakable bond. You only need to think back to the very beginnings of the wristwatch as a tool. During the Anglo-Burma War and First Boer War, soldiers began to strap pocket watch cases with primitive soldered lugs to their wrists, which opened the door for a new market. Fast-forward … ContinuedThe post How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 30, 2023

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise

Many of us have seen and heard the auctioneer’s hammer crash down on the final bid of a famous well-fought-over item. What interests Chris Malburg – apart from the artifact itself – is the seller. Why the sale? Is this is a one-off event or does he or she have more to offer? What brought them to this hammer time? This article explores motives for and provides expert advice on selling a watch at auction.

Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop! Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g May 22, 2023

Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop!

While there’s plenty of (micro)brands out there doing their thing in their own unique way, there is no brand out there that quite does it like Studio Underd0g. Their funky two-register chronographs have captured the hearts of enthusiasts ever since they first released in 2020, stemming from unique, often food-related, inspiration. We’re excited to offer … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko 5 Sports Adds a Pair of Limited Editions Peanuts Themed Watches to the Collection to Celebrate their Anniversary Worn & Wound
Omega released May 15, 2023

Seiko 5 Sports Adds a Pair of Limited Editions Peanuts Themed Watches to the Collection to Celebrate their Anniversary

If you continue to miss out on the ultra popular and still incredibly difficult to track down Silver Snoopy Speedmaster that Omega released in 2020 to an incredible level of hysteria, Seiko has what will certainly be a more affordable and (probably) easier to find pair of limited editions coming that might scratch that Snoopy itch. The latest Seiko 5 Sports limited editions are both Snoopy themed, and capture a lot of the charm from the original comics in subtle ways.  The new watches use the smaller Seiko 5 Sports platforms, the 38mm case size with a dive bezel, and the 36mm field watch style case without a bezel. Each has a white dial with graphics pulled right from the comic. The larger dive style watch has an image of Snoopy with a surfboard (with the words “Seiko 5 Sports” printed on in).The smaller watch features Snoopy and Woodstock negotiating a parachute.  These watches are being released as part of this year’s 55th anniversary celebration of the Seiko 5 Sports imprint. Accordingly, the artwork for the new watches was pulled from Peanuts comics dating to 1968, Seiko 5 Sports’ first year. That extends to the casebacks as well, which both feature larger images from the comics along with a “Limited Edition” designation. My personal favorite tribute to the original comics in these watches though is the use of the ‘Schulz’ font for the numerals on each piece. Along with the artwork, it makes these watches feel more grounded in their original comic str...

It is About Effing Time you watched the three amigos’ Watches & Wonders coverage Time+Tide
May 15, 2023

It is About Effing Time you watched the three amigos’ Watches & Wonders coverage

If you have yet to hop on the About Effing Time train, you are really missing out. Cause if anything, it is not even a train – it is a full-on party bus. Three horological Avengers assembled after a fateful encounter at Watches & Wonders 2022, where our very own Andrew McUtchen, George Bamford of … ContinuedThe post It is About Effing Time you watched the three amigos’ Watches & Wonders coverage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.