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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Complicated Collectors: Dr Eugen Gschwind SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Gschwind liked Daniels He Mar 3, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Dr Eugen Gschwind

The dinner in Basel had reached the stage where the porcelain was being cleared, but the tension at the table remained heavier than the silverware. Dr Eugen Gschwind, a man who wore his erudition as comfortably as his tailored suits, watched his guest with the predator’s patience that had defined his four decades of collecting. Across from him sat George Daniels, the English horologist and watchmaker who had single-handedly dragged the concept of the handmade watch out of the grave of history. Daniels was brilliant, notoriously opinionated, and, according to some, firmly convinced that he was the spiritual reincarnation of Abraham-Louis Breguet. François-Paul Journe´s 3/84 pocketwatch, Dr Gscwind´s first commission. Image SJX composite – F.P. Journe Gschwind liked Daniels. He championed the Englishman’s genius, yet remained too dogmatic to ever buy his work. He had famously toasted Daniels at a society dinner as the ‘greatest living watchmaker,’ only to follow it with the dry, smiling addendum: ‘But only the second-best watchmaker who ever lived.’ Tonight, however, was not about jests. It was the culmination of a long-simmering technical argument. For years, Gschwind had chided Daniels about his reliance on the 15-second remontoir d’égalité. To Daniels, this mechanism, which rewound a secondary spring every quarter-minute to smooth out the torque of the mainspring, was the ultimate solution to the problem of isochronism. Gschwind viewed it was a compro...

Ruby Resonance from Armin Strom SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Mar 2, 2026

Ruby Resonance from Armin Strom

Independent watchmaker Armin Strom has upgraded its flagship complication with a precious stone dial. The Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby is a five-piece limited edition with a dial cut from natural ruby. Initial thoughts Armin Strom is arguably the second-most prominent watchmaker (after F.P. Journe) to successfully bring “resonance” watches to market. We extensively covered the subject of coupled oscillator watches recently, which examines Armin Strom’s unique approach to achieving this mysterious effect.  Within this narrow niche, Armin Strom’s Mirrored Force series is certainly the broadest collection of resonance watches on the market, with multiple movements and many variations exploiting the almost magic coupling between two sprung balances. This new limited edition employs the familiar in-house caliber ARF21, which connects the two hairspring by a long, swivelling blade spring - dubbed the Resonance Clutch Spring. While the movement is certainly well known, this particular iteration of the watch is quite surprising: a thin slice of natural ruby serves as the dial, with all the imperfections and liveliness of a natural mineral.  Using a ruby dial is not only aesthetically appealing but poetic for a mechanical watch. The jewels serving as bearings inside every movement are synthetic rubies - a fancy sort of industrial mineral glass. The uneven bright pink and violet shades of the Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby’s dial assure us there is nothing artificial...

Hats-Off to Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome SJX Watches
Mar 2, 2026

Hats-Off to Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome

The niche market for modern automatons just a little less tiny with Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome, a mechanical butler that pop ups and greet the onlooker on demand. In the tradition of historical automatons, Le Majordome is entirely mechanical and driven by complex clockwork, and made entirely by hand. Initial thoughts Hugo Rittener is a young automaton maker from the Vaud region of Switzerland. Having cut his teeth working with François Junod, one of the most celebrated talents in the field, Mr Rittener has now gone into business for himself. Against this backdrop, Le Majordome (“the butler” in English) represents a foundational release. Compared to the timepieces we sometimes call mechanical art, this tabletop automaton serves no actual utility; there’s no time-telling and no complication other than the bronze figure itself. In terms of pure mechanical art, this is as artful as it gets. Having taken over 1,000 hours of work, from design to finishing, the (Le) Majordome is a mechanical animation of a bronze-sculpted and gold-plated butler figure, which raises his top hat towards those who actuate the mechanism.   Mr Rittener poetically describes the Majordome as an automate d’accueil - meaning “welcoming automaton”. The mechanical butler does in fact greet its audience, so it could be used as an extravagant welcoming party trick. Hugo Rittener will make 10 pieces of the Majordome in total, over the course of some years. Given the highly artisanal process...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Vs. Aquastar Deepstar II Fratello
Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Vs Mar 1, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Vs. Aquastar Deepstar II

It’s Sunday, which means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, it’s an epic battle between two retro dive watches. Each is inspired by its respective brand’s 1960s classics. Jorg’s pick is the Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival, a modern version of the brand’s Deep Blue. Mike’s pick is the Aquastar Deepstar II, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Vs. Aquastar Deepstar II to read the full article.

New: Raymond Weil millesime small seconds with Tuxedo‑style sector dials Deployant
Raymond Weil Feb 28, 2026

New: Raymond Weil millesime small seconds with Tuxedo‑style sector dials

The latest millesime small seconds keeps the core architecture of the line intact while shifting the visual emphasis toward stronger contrast and more deliberate layering. The case, proportions, and RW4251 movement remain unchanged, which gives the new references a familiar baseline. The update comes through the Tuxedo‑inspired dial treatment and the way each colorway organizes light and dark zones.

Best Watches For Kids: Fun And Practical Picks For All Ages Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 27, 2026

Best Watches For Kids: Fun And Practical Picks For All Ages

While I’m sure the internet primarily knows me as a watch writer/teeny tiny watch enthusiast, a lesser-known fact about me is that I used to teach English abroad in the first couple of years after I graduated from college. I might not have kids myself, but I do think this experience makes me uniquely qualified to scour the internet for the best kids' watches available today, and synthesize them into an easily digestible guide for those who want to share their love of watches with a young one in their life. From back in my classroom days, I know that durability and practicality are essential ingredients to a great watch for kids. I’ll also be going for a broad stylistic range, from the fun and playful to the more sophisticated, to account for both elementary school-age kids and those entering their tween years. Additionally, it does not strike me as wise to invest major cash into a child’s first watch, unless you are getting one early to then gift it to them at a more appropriate age, so I’ve also gone for the affordability factor as well.  [toc-section heading="Timex Time Machines"] In my opinion, Timex currently has one of the most impressive ranges of kids' watches, making pieces geared towards pre-schoolers all the way to tweens and teens. Dubbed the Time Machines collection by the brand, a huge drawis that all the brand’s kids’ watches come with a replacement program in case your little one happens to break or lose their new watch. Additionally, the highes...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer II Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Rolex Explorer II Alternatives Feb 27, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer II Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. This week, we follow up on last week’s list of the top five Rolex GMT-Master II alternatives with the best alternatives to the Rolex Explorer II. It’s a logical step since the two models offer much of the same functionality. But they are inherently different watches in terms of presence and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer II Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

Introducing: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Watches With Tuxedo Dials Fratello
Audemars Piguet winning Feb 27, 2026

Introducing: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Watches With Tuxedo Dials

Three years ago, the Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds timepiece won the GPHG 2023 Challenge Watch Prize. That was a bigger surprise to most watch fans than Audemars Piguet winning the Grand Prix for the Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. Since that award-winning watch, many variations have debuted. And truth be told, they all […] Visit Introducing: Three New Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Watches With Tuxedo Dials to read the full article.

Hands On: Breguet Expérimentale 1 SJX Watches
Breguet Expérimentale 1 Feb 27, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Expérimentale 1

The Expérimentale 1 debuted last year as the capstone to the first quarter-millennium of the house of Breguet. We attended the launch event and shared immediate hands-on impressions, but watches like this don’t come along every day, or even every year, so it’s worth a fresh look now that some time has passed and the dust has settled. On paper, the Expérimentale 1 arguably represents the highest form of the mechanical watch. To understand the technical details of what makes the watch so groundbreaking, this in-depth analysis should be considered required reading. In short, the cal. 7250 housed within introduces the first-ever contactless mechanical escapement that simultaneously achieves two feats that Abraham-Louis Breguet himself toiled to accomplish throughout his entire career, namely, an oil-free escapement and stable amplitude. The Expérimentale 1 delivers both, and more. That said, as a wristwatch the Expérimentale 1 is tantalisingly imperfect owing to its polarising design. In fairness, this arguably says more about the difficultly of communicating technical breakthroughs to a non-technical public than it does about the design process at Breguet. It could also be the result of Breguet learning lessons from its own past. A modern (Marine) chronometer The Expérimentale 1 is most notable for its novel escapement and what it signals about the future direction of the brand, but it’s also worth analysing the updated Marine-style case, which is the most challeng...

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Feb 26, 2026

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review

In 2017, IWC introduced a proprietary alloy called Ceratanium, or ceramized titanium, a hard, lightweight material that combined the best of ceramic and titanium. Oh, and it happened to look pretty cool as well. The material has been used sparingly in the intervening years, largely appearing across the brand’s sport-watch portfolio, from the Pilot to the Aquatimer collections. This week, Ceratanium is making its first appearance in the Portugieser collection with a new, limited-edition 41mm chronograph featuring a Ceratanium case affixed to a black rubber strap. In an effort to drive the point home, the rest of the watch is fully murdered out making the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium a decidedly sporty take on this otherwise dressier collection. [toc-section heading="What's New"] The new watch is the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it turns the classic chronograph layout on its head by rendering every detail in shades of black (insert Henry Ford quote here). The Portugieser is a historic watch with roots that date back to the late 1930s, and its modern aesthetic is largely referential to that history. That underlying design remains intact here, with a large, open dial hosting Arabic numerals at each hour, and a set of leaf hands tracking the time against them. The two subdials are arranged vertically, retaining a symmetric layout that recalls the original time-only references that had subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock.  Using Ceratanium (which ha...

Raymond Weil’s Well-Dressed Millesime “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Feb 26, 2026

Raymond Weil’s Well-Dressed Millesime “Tuxedo”

An eighties icon that is finding fresh footing, Raymond Weil has extended its GPHG-winning dress watch collection with the Millesime Small Seconds 39 mm “Tuxedo”. Available in three appealing colourways, the Millesime features Art Deco-inspired typography that brings a surprising degree of energy to the line-up’s familiar sector-style dial. Initial thoughts Raymond Weil was one of the biggest names in Swiss watchmaking in the 1980s and 1990s. Raymond Weil himself was one of the first entrepreneurs to see a future for mechanical watchmaking amidst the rubble of the quartz crisis, launching his eponymous brand in 1976. While peak production is in the past, the brand seems to have rebounded with a collection of well-received dress watches and savvy limited editions. The new Millesime Small Seconds embodies the carefully considered details that have underpinned the brand’s recent resurgence. It’s not revolutionary by any means, but at just US$2,295 it offers an affordable entry point to the world of Swiss dress watches. Affordability is one thing, but appeal is another. Fortunately the 39 mm Millesime hits many of the right notes in each of the three colourways, including a so-called ‘tuxedo’ configuration in either classic back and white or on-trend burgundy, as well as a dark blue option that might be the dark horse favourite. Art Deco trio All three models have a few key things in common, starting with the stainless steel case. The Millesime measures 39 mm in ...