Hodinkee
In-Depth: Tony Rice's Hands: How the Bulova Accutron Spaceview Became the Watch of Bluegrass
The late musician wasn't just a virtuoso guitarist. He was also an accomplished watchmaker, with highly specific – and influential – taste.
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WatchAdvice
Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review
What we love: Proper solid built watch overallClasp feel very secure on the wristGAS Tube Lume is sensational at night What we don’t love: Thickness, at 17.3mm some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Some may find the crown guard to be fiddlySome may find the Clasp can dig into the wrist Overall rating: 7.5/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 7/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Once upon a time, if you wanted a mid-priced automatic chronograph, chances are it’ll be powered by the ETA 7750 (or one of its close siblings), and the only choice really was the brand and the style. The movement was so ubiquitous that it was literally everywhere and fitted to almost everything. The dial layout was distinctive, and the rotor wobble was familiar, instantly giving away the engine within. Don’t get me wrong. This wasn’t a bad thing. The movement is a low key high achiever, easily running within COSC specs day in and day out without so much as breaking a sweat. It is a tough, durable, workhorse movement, designed from the beginning as an integrated chronograph, making it very efficient and the “almost 2 days” of power reserve is a testament to that fact. You might scoff at the power reserve but keeping in mind that this movement has been around since the 70s, largely unchanged, and 2 days was the norm for many decades. Plus, if you wear it every day, then it’s really a moot point. The only thing that might generate heated debate is how much value you attac...
Revolution
Mr Talking Hands: Size Matters
Size matters surprisingly little when considering a watch. That is, until it’s too late. But what does it mean for a watch to be the right size?
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Zenith Split A Watch Dial In Two With The Lupin Final Edition
This bicolor manifestation of the A384 Revival is a must-see.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Lesson In Proportion And Fit With The Doxa Sub 600T
Does this chunky '80s design work for today's wrists?
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A 42mm (Yellow Gold) Hublot Both My Wife And I Can Wear? Yes, Please
The Classic Fusion goes YG in 42mm for the first time ever.
Quill & Pad
Actively Black x Teleport ‘Obama’ Watch: Hands On!
On January 1, 2022, watch spotters were flummoxed by a photograph of President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama in their New Year's Eve party dress. The former POTUS appeared to be wearing a black Royal Oak-style chronograph on a rubber strap. The watch in question turned out to be a collaboration between Teleport, a little-known U.S.-based fashion watch producer, and Actively Black, a U.S.-owned leisurewear company. Colin Alexander Smith managed to get his hands on one for a closer look, which he shares here.
Deployant
Zenith Defy Skyline: New for LVMH Watch Week 2022. Hands-on review.
We get up close with this comprehensive review of the new Zenith Defy Skyline which is just released today for the LVMH Watch Week.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Explorer's Watch That Nivada Grenchen Crowdsourced On Instagram
The Super Antarctic is the latest recreation from the new Nivada.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Quartz Crisis Casualty Revived! Say Hello To Excelsior Park
And this first release is knocked squarely out of the … oh, never mind.
Revolution
Mr Talking Hands on: Three Hidden Gems From Omega
Looking for a watch that’s a bit different, a bit interesting? Of course, you are. Well, how about this: I’ll save you the effort of looking. Here are three hidden gems from Omega - and there isn’t a Speedmaster in sight
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119
The arrival of the next-generation Calatrava.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire in Titanium
Just last year, IWC debuted its smallest Big Pilot’s Watch to date. Smaller, but not small, the latest Big Pilot is 43 mm, leaving it very much large and legible, but more wearable. The brand quickly followed up with the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire, which shares the same proportions but in new styles and materials. Two variants are available: titanium or bronze, but the standout is definitely the model in the lightweight metal. Initial thoughts The original Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is intrinsically appealing, being large enough to be an oversized aviator’s instrument, but small enough to sit relatively comfortable on wrist. That contrasts with the original Big Pilot, which is 46.5 mm in diameter. With the original version selling well, the addition of the Spitfire editions is natural. The aesthetic of Spitfire editions is clearly different from the that of the standard model in steel, which is good news for enthusiasts who want something more interesting. History fanatics, however, might frown at the dial design. Of the two Spitfire versions, the one in titanium stands out for its unusual, historically-inspired dial (though it’s not exactly historically accurate since IWC didn’t produce a B-uhr with such a dial; more on that below). And it also has an atypical case finish that mimics a worn, vintage case. On the other hand, the bronze version is identical to the steel model save for the bronze case and green dial – in fact it sticks to the same formula applied...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: With The (Often) Cheapest Watch On Amazon
It's a Casio. And the dial, surprisingly, has a story to tell.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: We Went To The 'Matrix' Premiere And Saw Some Hamilton Watches On The Big Screen
Taking a look at the new 'Matrix'-themed PSR – which is already sold out in the U.S.
Deployant
Analog Photography: hands-on with a large format camera, developing and making a direct negative print
At the Lange Exceptional Masterpieces exhibition, currently on till Dec 5, we participated in a special activity, showcasing analog photography.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570, In Both Polar And Black
The differences are in the details.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Plying Hypothetical Waters With The Aquastar Deepstar II
A drop-dead-gorgeous tribute to a legacy cut short by time.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Finally, Someone Gets The Whole Airplane-Turned-Watch Right
Breitling's new Super AVI series is on a mission to achieve wrist superiority.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Longines Spirit Titanium Is, In Fact, A Hit
From horse-jumping to apartment-hunting, this watch can handle it all.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”
Leaked online prior to its launch – David Beckham inadvertently revealed the watch on his Instagram account – the Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” was widely expected yet surprisingly, at least in the metal. Developed in collaboration with the combat divers of the Commando Hubert, an elite unit of the Commandos Marine, part of the special forces of the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. The divers covertly travel underwater in pairs, and the Pelagos FXD is one of the tools they use for aquatic navigation. The FXD revives the relationship Tudor maintained with the French Navy for several decades starting in the 1950s when the watchmaker first supplied the navy with dive watches. A Submariner ref. 9401/0 issued to French navy divers in the 1970s Initial thoughts I liked the idea of the FXD when I first saw the photos, and seeing it in the metal reinforced my opinion, enough that I bought one. Beyond its tangible qualities its best characteristic in my opinion is its status as the only watch developed as a military-issue timepiece – that is currently in active service with a unit – in the mid- to high-end segment of modern watchmaking. This sets the FXD apart from watches made by other brands that supply military units with civilian watches bearing the unit insignia, as brands like IWC, Breitling, and Bell & Ross do. Being a military-issue watch the FXD is straightforward, but it also boasts the attention to detail one expects from Tudor, even on the finish...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Ref. 25707B
The evolution of the brand’s do-it-all diver for modern duty with the Marine Nationale.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Classically Versatile Victorinox Swiss Army Heritage
Chicken soup for your wrist.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco
A homage to famed Monaco “Dark Lord”, the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is unique for utilising carbon, or more specifically carbon composites, in almost every aspect of the watch – dial, case, and even the hairspring is carbon. Plus it has a specially finished movement that’s visible through the an extra-wide sapphire case back. Initial thoughts The vintage “Dark Lord” is all-black version of the Monaco that’s one of the most desirable of vintage Heuers. It was something of an experimental creation with only a few dozen were made, or perhaps even a hundred depending on the source. One of the first all-black watches, the “Dark Lord” had a powder-coated case like many early black-coated watches. Consequently, the “Dark Lord” case was fragile and few have survived in pristine condition, explaining its rarity and value, as well as why it’s the inspiration for the Carbon Monaco. A vintage “Dark Lord” ref. 740.303N The pleasing black, orange, and cream palette of the Carbon Monaco instantly evoke the “Dark Lord”. And at a distance, the Carbon Monaco even has something of a vintage flavour. But up close it is evidently a modern watch in both style and substance. Unlike the “Dark Lord”, the Carbon Monaco is fabricated from a material that’s naturally black, or at least a dark grey. The carbon composite case has an indelible finish, while also being extremely lightweight. The modern material, along with the geometrically open-worked ...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021
The upcoming Only Watch auction is an impressive catalogue of 53 one-off timepieces, a good number of which – more than a quarter of the total – are chronographs. Among the dozen chronographs, a couple caught my eye. One is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021. It’s essentially an evolution of the Breguet Type 20 created for Only Watch 2019, simple in design and execution but attractive in that simplicity. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Initial thoughts Like another notable chronograph in the sale, the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Type XX is reinterpretation of an iconic model of the brand. But the Type XX Only Watch 2021 is a nostalgic reinterpretation with a chocolate-brown dial that evokes the aged, “tropical” effect found on vintage examples. That said, the vintage styling is its only weakness. The Type XX is almost identical to the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 – right down to the strap – though the point can be made that the two make a perfect pair. The Type XX (left), and Type 20 They are each inspired by historical aviator’s watches made for the military and civilian markets respectively (the vintage Type XX was marketed to civilians, while the Type 20 was supplied to the French military). So this year’s Type XX should go home with the owner of the Type 20 from 2019. Almost a doppelgänger – the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Notably, the Type XX is powered by a vintage movement, though one that is from a later period from an actual vintage Type XX. Still, giv...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001
Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...
WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Burgundy Red Hands-on Review
Pros: Two watches in oneBurgundy Red dial and Rose gold case is a fantastic comboGood size Reverso may suit most wrists Cons: Some may find it to be expensiveLimited edition and boutique only – can be difficult to come byThe rectangular case may not suit all wrists Over All Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 9/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 9/10 I’m quite sure that we all know the story of how the Reverso came about quite well by now. If not, where have you been the last couple of decades? Even though it has been around since 1931, the watch did disappear from the range for a little while, before being resurrected in 1972 by an Italian watch dealer, Giorgio Corvo, who bought up the remaining Reverso cases (around 200) and sold them all in Italy after fitting them with a movement. Convinced that the range will sell, he persuaded Jaeger-LeCoultre to revive the range in the 80s. Fast forward to 1991, on the 60th anniversary of the Reverso, various complications were introduced in the watch. This was no small feat as there is a lot less room inside the rectangular case, and therefore being able to squeeze in complications meant that Jaeger-LeCoultre has had to overcome many obstacles. We may take a two-faced Reverso for granted these days, but even that requires years of development to achieve. This brings us to the watch today, one of the 90th-anniversary models, and quite possibly one of the prettiest, most elegant and stunning Reverso ever to g...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Hamilton's Surprising New Take On The Pilot's Watch
The 38mm Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer is 20,000 feet of cool.
Hodinkee
Hey, HODINKEE!: Blue Hands, World Time Cities, And The Agony And Ecstasy Of Culling The Herd
Better to have loved and lost, than to have never loved at all.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Royal Oak Offshores, New For 2021
"I find it unspeakably charming."