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Time+Tide
The Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours landed in Melbourne last week, and not only was I fortunate to take a closer look at it, but the kind people at Franck Muller invited me to celebrate it with them at a dining event with some of their important local clients. It was a great opportunity to … ContinuedThe post EVENT: A Crazy few Hours with Franck Muller in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow is a sucker for a moon phase and anything unique about the indication that makes it extra special. In the case of the Harry Winston Z13, the moon phase is an interesting shape: a dodecagon (12 sides) featuring a shuriken symbol (like a ninja throwing star). And its case is made of Zalium, a proprietary material Joshua explains here.
Deployant
Is green the new blue? We take a look at some of our favourite green dial watches, in this week's Throwback Sundays column.
Time+Tide
Hublot has teamed up with the initiative Save Our Rhino Africa/India (SORAI) to create the fetching, limited edition Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI. Stylised to mimic the tonal colours of Africa’s vast bush land, the new Big Bang Unico SORAI’s 45mm case is finished in microblasted beige ceramic, as is the watch’s bezel. Providing a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Paying homage to a man widely regarded as the father of modernism, Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret), Rado’s stunning range of True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier could definitely be worth a look as your next summer watch. Le Corbusier, the visionary Swiss designer, architect and writer, created the concept of Architectural Polychromy – a palette … ContinuedThe post The Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
While the brand has moved into the realms of haute horologerie with minute repeaters, in-house chronograph movements, top-grade finishing, it also retains an accessible collection. The Flieger Automatic is one such watch.
SJX Watches
Originally introduced in 2017 for the Grand Exhibition in New York, the Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R was the first minute repeater that could chime the local time, as opposed to a conventional world-time repeater that would only strike the home time. The reference then entered regular production in 2018 with a cloisonné enamel of Lake Geneva, or the lac Léman as locals know it, a recurring motif on Patek Philippe enamel watches. Patek Philippe has now unveiled a special-edition version for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition 2019 in Singapore, featuring a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the city centre of Singapore, along with the country’s name listed on the city disc in place of Beijing. It joins the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R as one of the grand complications created especially for the event. As was always the case, the watch is in red gold and measures 40.2mm wide. it features hand-guillochéd, hobnail pattern on the case band as well as on the repeater slide on the left. In it is the self-winding cal. R 27 HU which features the patented repeater mechanism that chimes the time of the city at the 12 o’clock position on the world time mechanism. While a minute repeater usually operates independently from the world time and thus chimes only the home time, the two mechanisms in this case are mechanically coupled. The hour snail of the repeater is continuously driven by the time zone wheel of the world time mechanism. ...
SJX Watches
Since its introduction in 2007, the popularity of the Aquanaut 5167A has followed on the coattails of the Nautilus Ref 5711/1A. And now for the occasion of the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore, Patek Philippe has unveiled a special-edition Aquanaut ref. 5167A-012 with red accents and a red strap. The dial features the Aquanaut’s traditional chequerboard motif, but with red minute markers and a red central hand. The addition of colour is a nod to Singapore’s flag, which is red and white. Though the cosmetic changes are minimal, the overall effect of which is nonetheless striking and appealing. Depth rated to 120m, the case remains 40mm in diameter and is paired with a red composite strap. It houses the cal. 324 S C, which is visible through a sapphire case back that has been printed with the inscription “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019”. The cal. 324 S C is the brand’s central-rotor automatic movement that is fairly ordinary but attractively finished. It offers a short 35- to 45-hour power reserve, and as with all of Patek Philippe’s current movements, it is fitted with a Gyromax balance wheel, which is essentially a free-sprung, adjustable mass balance, as well as a silicon Spiromax hairspring. Key facts Diameter: 40mm Height: 8.1mm Material: Stainless steel Water-resistance: 120m Movement: cal. 324 S C Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; date Winding: Self-winding Frequency: 28,800bph, or 4Hz Power reserve: 35 to 45 hours Strap: Red composite Pr...
Time+Tide
While there are many watch enthusiasts out there who consider timepieces with a case size of between 36mm and 40mm to be sitting in the “Goldilocks” zone, there are watches in existence that most certainly do not conform to this notion. These timepieces are made for enthusiasts who want something that has genuine presence on … ContinuedThe post Size is the prize: 3 seriously big watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Back at the beginning of 2013, as a result of kissing goodbye to a couple of watches (mistakes) from my collection, I found myself in the rather fortunate position of needing a new daily timepiece. The buying criteria was fairly simple and straightforward: the new watch needed to be a diver, automatic, Swiss made and … ContinuedThe post Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Your weekly round-up of watches from around the web.
SJX Watches
Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont has just added Buccellati to its stable of luxury brands, which include watchmakers like A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Panerai. Richemont is buying the 100-year old Milanese jeweller from Gangtai Group Corporation Limited, a Chinese conglomerate that bought a majority stake in 2017 that reputedly valued the jeweller at €230m, or about US$271m at the time, according to Forbes. Gangtai had owned 85% of Buccellati, with the remainder held by the founding family, but like many of its peers the Chinese group has been forced to sell assets as the Chinese government put a stop to the debt-fuelled overseas expansion that was earlier fashionable. The terms of Richemont’s acquisition were not disclosed, although Chinese news website Jing Daily reports Buccellati was valued at US$313m, including debt, equivalent to about 15% of Richemont’s net cash position in the last fiscal year. According to Richemont, Buccellati family scion Andrea Buccellati as well as several other family members will remain with the jeweller after the takeover. Buccellati gives Richemont a more diverse presence in high-end jewellery, where its business is concentrated the Parisian jewellers Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, which together account for the bulk of group sales. In contrast to the French style of both Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati’s Italian sensibility gives Richemont a stylistic counter to Bulgari, the Roman jeweller owned by French luxury ...
Time+Tide
At the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches auction, you can browse the catalogue and find all manner of incredibly rare and important watches and clocks from all the best watchmakers in the world. There is everything you would expect, and more, including a possibly unique red dial Rolex Daytona, a factory gem-set yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master, … ContinuedThe post Best 5 watches for under $5K at the Sotheby’s Important Watches auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203 has a bold appearance due to both its generous diameter of 43.5 mm and even more so by the large chronograph pushers and crown. Despite being such a substantial watch, Martin Green was surprised how well it sat and wore on his modestly sized wrist. Here he summarizes a week wearing this versatile all-rounder.
Hodinkee
A concept becomes a reality, and the world of perpetual calendars will never be the same.
Deployant
We bring you sneak previews of the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore. And you are invited: From Sept 28 to Oct 13. Details within.
Time+Tide
SJX Watches recently published an in-depth look at Seiko’s prodigious and fabled 9F Quartz movements, which are now in their 26th year of production. And there’s no question the 9F is a genuinely high-end movement that has taken decades of engineering to perfect. It’s actually a remarkable feat of timekeeping when you think about it … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
First introduced two years ago as an entry-level model styled on vintage marine chronometers, the Marine Torpilleur has just received an upgrade. The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show is a limited edition fitted with a grand feu enamel dial, created to mark the watchmaker’s sponsorship, now in its 11th year, of the annual yachting event in Monte Carlo harbour. While the standard model has a brass dial, the Monaco edition has a three-part dial made of vitreous enamel that’s fired in an oven – a desirable feature that increases its retail price by a modest 20% or so. Like all of Ulysse Nardin’s enamel dials, it is produced by Donze Cadran, a subsidiary of the watchmaker that’s one of the few dial makers in Switzerland able to make fired enamel dials in substantial numbers. An old school dial The dial starts out as a copper disc that is covered with white enamel powder that’s then baked in a small oven, several dials at a go, to melt the enamel and fuse it to the dial. The dial has two apertures for each of the sub-dials, which are separate pieces that are covered in grey enamel and fired separately. After they are fired, the dials are printed with enamel markings, resulting in another trip to the oven to set the markings. Then the apertures on the main dial, as well as the edges of the sub-dials, are filed by hand to ensure a perfect fit with each other. Once complete, the sub-dials are soldered to the main dial. The dial is marked “09.19” – the m...
SJX Watches
The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 opened today for a sneak preview of the monumental showcase of watchmaking and horology. It includes everything from watchmaker demonstrations to a look into the art of enamelling, explained by no other than master artisan Anita Porchet herself; more on those in upcoming stories (or you can also buy the hardbound catalogue with proceeds going to charity). For now, here’s a peek at the highly anticipated limited edition watches produced for the event. The outline of the Singapore 2019 collection is simple: four relatively accessible watches, two grand complications, and a variety of unique Rare Handcrafts clocks, pocket- and wristwatches. All of the limited edition watches bear “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019” on the case back, printed if the back is sapphire, and engraved if the back is solid. The first is the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 ref. 5167A-012 in steel, a variation of the standard model. It has a dial with the minute track and seconds hand in red, matched with a red strap. This is limited to 500 pieces, and priced at 22,400 Swiss francs, or 33,500 Singapore dollars. (Full details on the Aquanaut here.) It’s accompanied by the Aquanaut Luce Singapore 2019 ref. 5067A-027 in steel for ladies that has a red dial and strap, also a variation of the standard model. Only 300 will be made, with a retail of 19,900 Swiss francs, or 29,800 Singapore dollars. Also for ladies is the Calatrava Pilot Travel Ti...
SJX Watches
Having created a number of appealing and accessibly priced “tool” watches over the years including the Seastrong Diver Heritage and the KM-710, Alpina now unveils the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph, powered by a single-button chronograph movement supplied by its sister company, La Joux-Perret. The Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph is the second mechanical chronograph in the Alpina catalogue; the first was the Alpiner 4 Manufacture Flyback, which had a Valjoux 7750, likewise modified by La Joux-Perret to include a flyback function. The brand Alpina was actually founded over 130 years ago but fell victim to the quartz crisis in the 1970s. Then in 2002, it was acquired by Frederique Constant, which was itself then acquired by Citizen of Japan in 2016. Now, like its sister company Frederique Constant, it specialises in accessibly priced watches, made possible in part by the movement making expertise of La Joux-Perret. As with most Alpina watches, the Startimer Pilot Heritage chronograph combines retro design with modern dimensions and build. Its styling is recognisably 1970s, and evokes the experimental spirit of the era without being overtly flashy or eccentric. Measuring 42mm by 40.7mm, the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph features a cushion case with the chronograph pusher located at two o’clock. Like all cushion-cased watches of the 1970s, it has a radially brushed top surface and case band that are separated by a wide polished bevel, which enha...
Time+Tide
In what is a meeting of two of the most significant collections from the Franck Muller manufacture, the Vanguard Crazy Hours is an exciting offering, made even more exciting with the news of an exclusive collection for Asia. The Vanguard Crazy Hours is the first time the brand has housed the famous Crazy Hours movement inside … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours Asia Exclusive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Panerai are known for many things – a rich Italian heritage in watchmaking that dates back to 1860, steep aquatic history providing watches for the naval forces of many countries, most notably Italy and Egypt, and a quintessential design language that has spanned the better part of a century … the list goes … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Panerai Luminor Due PAM00943 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Peter Lehmann Masterson Shiraz 2015 is called “the Masterson” in honor of the origins of the company and Peter Lehmann himself. The first release is in magnums only: a total of 1,400 magnums made, 1,000 of them to released at AUD$2,000 each. Ken Gargett rates it 98/100. Find out why right here.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer has unveiled its penultimate limited edition 50th anniversary Monaco, and this one pays homage to the wonderful era that was the noughties. This is the fourth iteration of the limited-run watches, which are celebrating 50 years of the fabled original Heuer Monaco, first released in 1969. We’ve already seen the eclectic mix of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Zenith’s limited edition Chronomaster El Primero C.01 is an ice-cool rendition of the 1969 original to salve our chronograph fever.
SJX Watches
Starting this weekend, the theatre inside Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands resort will become home to the epic, 16-day Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition, the biggest and longest such event ever staged by the brand. Open from 28 September to 13 October, the enormous showcase of horological artefacts and prowess will take visitors through the company’s history while delving into its many innovations and milestones. Divided into 10 themed rooms, the exhibition will present a comprehensive array of timepieces spanning centuries, including the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatch, as well as legendary grand complications like the record-setting Calibre 89. Some 400 timepiece will be on display – all detailed in a hardbound catalogue that will be sold to benefit charity – and here are seven highlights of the show that are worth a second look. The first perpetual calendar wristwatch Although the distinction of inventing the first perpetual calendar watch goes to English watchmaker Thomas Mudge, who created it in 1762 – and the Patek Philippe Museum owns one such Mudge creation – it was Patek Philippe that built the first ever perpetual calendar in a wristwatch, back in 1925. It was a one-off creation powered by a movement dating to 1898. Initially developed for a women’s pendant watch, the compact calibre only found a home 27 years later inside the landmark wristwatch. Crucially, it was also an instantaneous perpetual calendar, with calendar i...
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The road was long, but we have arrived: at the start of the year, A. Lange & Söhne kicked off the gradual launch of the 25th anniversary editions of the Lange 1. Made up of 10 different models, unveiled one a month, the series has now come to a conclusion with the final model – the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”. While all other watches in the Lange 1 family have remained in the catalogue since their debut, the Lange 1 Tourbillon was always a limited edition, making the last instalment of the anniversary series the rarest. The model was first unveiled in 2000 in pink gold (250 pieces) and platinum (150 pieces), followed by a honey-gold version (150 pieces) a decade later to mark the 165th anniversary of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s birth. Then the watch received the “Handwerkskunst” treatment in 2014 (20 pieces), giving it a platinum case and glossy, black enamel dial, resulting in a very desirable watch. And Lange also quietly produced a handful of one-off examples over the years, including a recent one for retailer The Hour Glass in Tokyo. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst The specially decorated movement of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Interestingly, Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary” marks the first time that the watch is produced in white gold. The case remains the standard size, 38.5mm wide and 9.8mm in height, also the same dimensions as the standard Lange 1. And like all prior 25th anniversary editions, it features a solid...
Deployant
The final piece of the Lange 1 25th Anniversary collection is crowned by the Lange 1 Tourbillon. Limited Edition 25 pieces in Anniverary colours. Live pics.
SJX Watches
The fact that e-sports – essentially competitive computer gaming – is a major phenomenon is hardly new. But now the world’s largest luxury brand is in on the action: Louis Vuitton just announced that it will build the trophy case for the Summoner’s Cup, the huge silver-plated chalice – weighing about 70lbs, or 32kg – that’s given to the winner of the League of Legends World Championship. This marks the first foray of a major luxury house into e-sports, and elevates the League of Legends championship to equal footing with global and historical sporting events like the soccer World Cup. League of Legends is one of the world’s biggest multiplayer online games, with last year’s championship event watched live by almost 100m people. It’s set in a fantasy world, with players controlling a character that, along with teammates, battles the opposing team. The annual championship sees 24 teams from around the world compete for US$1m in prize money – and the giant trophy in a Louis Vuitton trunk. The game joins events like the FIFA World Cup, America’s Cup, Rugby World Cup, and French Open, all of which have had their trophies accompanied by a custom-made Louis Vuitton travel trunk. Like all the other trophy cases, the League of Legends trunk is constructed like a traditional Louis Vuitton trunk, with a wood frame covered in monogram canvas with brass fittings; the only being last year’s FIFA World Cup trunk that was made of polished titanium. Along...
Time+Tide
SJX Watches recently published a fascinating story by Brandon Moore that takes a look at the impact that Instagram and other social media platforms have had on the scrutiny and importance of watch movement finishing. Moore talks to former Patek Philippe watchmaker and founder of Akrivia watches, Rexhep Rexhepi, about the influence of the social … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram’s influence on movement finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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