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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Breguet Expands Marine Fleet SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Yesterday

Breguet Expands Marine Fleet

The Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527 chronograph have been with us since 2018, remaining largely unchanged even as the rest of the catalogue has been thoroughly modernised. Now, the Marine collection gets its refresh with new dials and a range of materials, from titanium to 18k rose and white gold. The Marine 5517 in titanium Initial thoughts The Marine is something of an outlier among high-end integrated bracelet sports watches, being one of the few designs that avoids the 1970s-inspired styling that dominates the segment. Instead, the Marine carries design DNA from the brand’s heritage producing marine chronometers, dressed in a suitably seaworthy case and bracelet (or rubber strap). One of the most notable design changes for the updated Marine is that the roman numerals have been retired in favour of Breguet numerals. This update gives the Marine obvious Breguet design DNA, but some may find the mix of traditional Breguet elements on the dial with the contemporary case too much of a clash. The Marine 5527 in 18k rose gold There’s little question about the overall quality of the Marine, but the pricing puts its head-to-head with popular models from Audemars Piguet, such as the Royal Oak Chronograph, which is actually $500 cheaper than the 5527 in 18k rose gold. That said, the titanium variants are priced competitively, relative to titanium sports watches of similar quality from the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Six references, with bracelet or strap A little against conv...

eBay Finds: a Wild LED Watch with a Great Name, an Unusual Favre-Leuba, Classic Seiko, and More Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster  Going Yesterday

eBay Finds: a Wild LED Watch with a Great Name, an Unusual Favre-Leuba, Classic Seiko, and More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster  Going to start this week off with a brilliant tropical dial vintage Omega Seamaster. The 14k yellow gold filled case measures 35mm, has classic slim lugs and is in solid, unpolished condition. The embossed Hippocampus caseback medallion is nice and bold. The black dial has a pleasing, even patina that gives it a mottled chocolate look. It has applied gold stick markers and gold stick hands. No date window. I’m not always a fan of patina, but I can definitely make the case for this example! The crown is signed with the Omega logo as it should. This is a front loading case and there are no pictures of the automatic movement but the watch runs per the seller.  View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin Millbrook  Next up is a sweet vintage Lord Elgin Millbrook tank watch from the 1950s. This beauty has a wonderful Art Deco look to it. The small (likely 25mm or so) case is in 14k yellow gold fill, and is in superb condition. It’s squarish with fancy angled lugs that look really sharp, no pun intended! The butler silver dial is excellent, with applied gold markers. The markers are Art Deco stylized Arabic numerals for 12, 2, 4, 8 and 10, with a small sub-seconds dial...

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Ranchero, A Cartier Santos Ghost, An Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar, And A ZRC Grands Fronds Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas remains available Yesterday

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Ranchero, A Cartier Santos Ghost, An Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar, And A ZRC Grands Fronds

Next week is October. October. Even for someone who literally has an ongoing documentation of each week through this column, that is mind-blowing. I hope whatever baseball team you're stoked about is doing well—my Twins fell off so long ago that I haven't even been paying attention—and I also hope autumn's making a decent entrance for you wherever you are. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Omega Suverän sold for 9,600 DKK, the Universal Genève Cabriolet for 2,400 CHF, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas remains available, and the Zenith chrono for €3,000. Strays Photo courtesy of Huntington Company. Hermès watches hardly go unnoticed, but I love that some of their models still fly a good bit under the radar. The Cape Cod, for instance, is fantastic—interesting and elegant without being too weird. This one, the Grandes Heures, features an hour wheel that allows the hour hand to travel differently based on its dial position, meaning it covers more distance from 9-10 than from 10-11, and while that's not any foundation-shaking complication or horological advancement, it is, inarguably, very cool.  While the breadth of variations makes it hard to argue for any Datejust being superior, I'd argue the Rolex Boiler Gauge models deserve consideration in the top tier, and this one looks fantastic. I somehow went from never having seen the Omega Seamaster ref 196.0054 to spending an embarrassing amount of time looking into it, which is my very public plea for help and for ...

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Bulgari unveiled 2 days ago

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Vianney Halter

At Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari unveiled its latest collaboration with an independent watchmaker, three years after a fateful meeting between Vianney Halter and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director at Bulgari. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Vianney Halter Both describe their encounter – seemingly improbable at first – as more natural than we might expect. It resulted in a watch they both describe as “half Octo, half Vianney”. Yet this was not simply a matter of grafting one aesthetic onto another; the collaboration went deeper. Two separate conversations bring the same themes into focus: human connection, constraint as a creative stimulus and, above all, the opportunity to learn from one another. Vianney Halter (left) with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Image – Bulgari From Bulgari’s perspective, Mr Stigliani describes the Octo Finissimo as a model whose identity had become strong enough to withstand a much deeper transformation – and a manufacture challenged by the ideas of an independent watchmaker. Mr Halter, meanwhile, has long regarded collaboration as a means of moving beyond the boundaries and limitations of his own workshop – provided that the human relationship comes before the project. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Fabrizio, how did the idea of working with Vianney Halter come about? Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani (FBS): I’ve always been in love with the Antiqua. We went to see Vi...

Hands-On: BA111OD’s Chapter 7 Skeleton Gets a Light and Airy Stainless Steel Build Worn & Wound
Louis Erard 2 days ago

Hands-On: BA111OD’s Chapter 7 Skeleton Gets a Light and Airy Stainless Steel Build

I had heard the name but was not aware of the unforgettable spelling until I got a sample of my first BA111OD watch, the latest addition to the brand’s catalog: the Chapter 7 Skeleton. While BA111OD traces its roots back deep into the history of watchmaking, its modern incarnation has taken shape over the past seven years with several different chapters. One of the biggest evolutions we have seen in the brand’s contemporary catalog is in its movements. While early chapters got flack for keeping costs accessible with Chinese calibers, Chapter 3 incorporated the first Swiss caliber into the Swiss-based Maison’s lineup in 2022. The brand’s next installment, Chapter 4, continued to build on this trajectory with the BA111OD caliber BA.01. This movement was notably developed in collaboration with watchmaker Olivier Mory whose La Chaux de Fonds workshop has given rise to movements for brands across the industry, from Louis Erard to Yema. Then, BA111OD’s Chapter 5 went on to introduce the Maison’s first automatic chronograph thanks to the ETA Valjoux 7750. Next, Chapter Delta entered the lineup with a major shakeup thanks to another movement co-created with Olivier Mory, this time featuring a unique hypocycloidal mechanism. Instead of a standard central rotating hand, a satellite hour wheel rolls around a fixed central wheel. This creates a deltoid path where the hour dot naturally slows down and speeds up during its rotation cycle. Here, traditional circular minutes c...

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin s 30th Anniversary Overseas 2 days ago

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition

What We Know The hottest Vacheron Constantin collection is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary this year, and the brand is paying tribute with a new version of one of my personal favorite watches from the brand. Sure, earlier this year we got the return of the 2500V, which is celebration enough, but the new limited-edition azure blue Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a limited edition that honors the first generation of the collection. Below is a picture of the current third generation and the 1996 first generation, itself a successor of sorts to the 222 in 1977 and the 1975 Chronomètre Royal before it. Yes, Vacheron has done a blue version of this watch before—and has released a few other colors recently, including a bold red—but now the same 41.5mm by 8.1mm white gold case gets a more muted, less saturated azure blue soleil and lacquer treatment, with white and light blue printed text and applied indices with Super-LumiNova. The movement is the same Caliber 1120 QP/1 automatic movement that is only 4.05 mm thick. Yes, other brands are slowly introducing perpetual calendars with a crown-adjustment system, but while this still uses caseband pushers, the benefit is a watch that measures 1.5mm thinner than the similarly wide Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The watch runs at a slightly slower 2.75 Hz and has only 40 hours of power reserve, but again, at the thin profile you get, the wearability should more than make up for any small downsides. Another huge benefit i...

Introducing - Breguet Updates its Marine 5517 and Marine Chronograph 5527 with More Refined Dials Monochrome
Breguet Updates 2 days ago

Introducing - Breguet Updates its Marine 5517 and Marine Chronograph 5527 with More Refined Dials

While Breguet is mostly known for its classic watches adorned with guiloché dials and the numerous inventions of its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, the venerable manufacture nevertheless holds two sportier collections: one intended for aviation (the Type XX), the other for naval exploration (the Marine). And both are actually inspired by important historical moments in the […]

Audemars Piguet Brings Padel to Singapore SJX Watches
Frederique Constant became 2 days ago

Audemars Piguet Brings Padel to Singapore

Audemars Piguet is hosting a Padel Pop-Up Club starting September 25, marking the brand’s first local event tied to its involvement in the sport. Held in the School Hall of New Bahru, a fashionable “lifestyle destination”, the event will combine padel sessions with a courtside lounge, welcoming experienced players and newcomers. Padel, like its American counterpart pickleball, is a fast-growing racquet sport that blends elements of tennis and squash. Usually played in doubles, the sport is synonymous with the social atmosphere that surrounds it. Recognising this, Audemars Piguet is hosting a courtside lounge to welcome those who are more interested in the social scene than scoring points on the court. Audemars Piguet formally got involved with padel back in May, announcing a global partnership as official timekeeper of the Qatar Airways Premier Padel Tour, alongside sponsorship of Agustín Tapia, one of the sport’s top players. The tour agreement includes courtside clocks and branding at tournaments. While major sports like tennis, golf, and Formula 1 are saturated with watch brand partnerships, emerging sports like padel represent something of a Greenfield opportunity, especially with a younger audience. But that’s changing as brands adapt the well-established sponsorship playbook to the new domain. Earlier this year, Rolex added Spanish padel star Arturo Coello to its circle of celebrities, and Frederique Constant became the official watch partner of the Pro Pa...

First Look - Vacheron Constantin Celebrates 30 Years of Overseas Special Edition Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Celebrates 30 Years 2 days ago

First Look - Vacheron Constantin Celebrates 30 Years of Overseas Special Edition Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

The story of the Overseas begins in 1977 with the sporty-chic integrated 222, Vacheron Constantin’s bold response to a new generation of luxury sports watches represented by the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. Inheriting certain traits of the 222 but amplified and beefed up, the first-generation Overseas debuted in 1996. Now in its third phase, […]

Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style? Fratello
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your 3 days ago

Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style?

Just before summer, Glashütte Original invited us to its manufacture in eastern Germany. It was a great way for me to get to know the brand a little better. But the most important reason for the visit was the presentation of a few new releases. Jorg will cover the new Seventies collection in a separate […] Visit Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style? to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: If We Could Only Keep One Watch From Our Collection Fratello
3 days ago

Fratello Talks: If We Could Only Keep One Watch From Our Collection

What if you had to choose just one watch from your entire collection and let everything else go? No backups, no rotation, and no keeping that one watch you rarely wear “just in case.” In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Daan take on that particularly difficult hypothetical. The interesting part is that […] Visit Fratello Talks: If We Could Only Keep One Watch From Our Collection to read the full article.

Hands-On Review: Going Green With IWC’s Ingenieur 42 Green Ceramic WatchAdvice
IWC s Ingenieur 42 Green 3 days ago

Hands-On Review: Going Green With IWC’s Ingenieur 42 Green Ceramic

IWC went green this year with the Ingenieur 42 Ceramic, and while we thought the black was good, this could be better! What We Love: The shade of green ceramic works extremely well The gold accents elevate the watch nicely The finish & light play make this a standout on the wrist What We Don’t: Still, the lack of the quick-link adjustment system on the bracelet The 42 mm case size may not suit all wrist sizes and types A full ceramic watch may not be for everyone, or suit some people’s lifestyles Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When IWC released the black ceramic Ingenieur last year, I was pretty impressed with how well the watch worked in the metal, or ceramic, I should say. The Ingenieur is already a very distinctive design, and creating it in ceramic could easily have changed the proportions or feel of the watch, but IWC managed to retain what makes the current Ingenieur work while giving it a completely different feel on the wrist. IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr talked to us about this last year, and how much research and development went into making a 42mm-sized ceramic version to mirror the proportions, look and feel on the wrist as the standard steel 40mm. It was an interesting chat, which you can read all about here. It’s not easy being green, as the frog once said! But maybe, in this case, it is! Not content to rest on its laurels, IWC released a green ceramic version for Watches & Wonde...

H. Moser & Cie.’s Off-Grid Bares All SJX Watches
Breitling Aerospace debuted more than 4 days ago

H. Moser & Cie.’s Off-Grid Bares All

Following last year’s Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition made for the Alpine F1 team, H. Moser & Cie has just released its second smartwatch, this time with a unique take on the genre. The Off-Grid offers a streamlined set of programmed complications designed to occupy in the space between a mechanical watch and a smartwatch. In doing so, the Off-Grid eschews common functions like health tracking and notifications, allowing its full feature set to be accessed with or without a smartphone connection. The offline theme explains its most unusual complication, a built-in dictionary of 10 words in each of 21 different languages. Initial thoughts At first glance, the 1980s-style ana-digi display may feel more at home in a G-Shock or Seiko ‘Arnie’ than a Swiss luxury watch, though Moser is hardly the first Swiss brand to give the format a go. The Breitling Aerospace debuted more than 40 years ago, and Omega later introduced the ana-digi Speedmaster X-33 in 1998. But unlike the aforementioned, Moser’s choice to put the module on show beneath a semi-open-worked dial is a unique approach and reveals the brand’s mechanical watchmaking instincts. With the Off-Grid, Moser is trying to find the middle ground between mechanical and electronic watchmaking that offers the benefits of both worlds but without all the downsides — like constant notifications and fast-draining batteries. The “Off-Grid” moniker sums up the effort, both in terms of its autonomy and its conceptua...