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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

In Conversation with Jeff Koons on His New Collaboration with Hublot Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton Foundation Sep 17, 2026

In Conversation with Jeff Koons on His New Collaboration with Hublot

Watch collaborations have saturated the market in recent years, but when I heard Jeff Koons was getting involved in designing a model, my ears perked up. His Celebration series featuring his Balloon Dog sculptures makes up one of the most memorable works of art to emerge in my lifetime as a child of the 90s. I wasn’t surprised this would be the source of inspiration for the watches he’d create.  The artist and self-proclaimed weirdo in me has always appreciated the daring and disruptive nature of Koons’ creations, but to the masses, they’ve been polarizing. It was clear that his approach to design wouldn’t be the right fit for just any watch brand – it would need to be with a maker who was equally daring, disruptive, and perhaps even polarizing itself. Enter Hublot, who has long received scrutiny for its audacious models that buck Swiss tradition. “I remember maybe about 15 years ago, I was at an event for the Louis Vuitton Foundation, and I had a conversation with Bernard Arnault,” Koons recalls. “He said, ‘you know, Jeff, you should make a watch,’ but we never did. Years later, our sons became friends, and Frederic said to my son Sean, ‘your dad should make a watch – Hublot has a lot of interest in partnering with him.’ And I was really excited about this idea of working with new materials and working with time.” All that said, the goal has never been a shock factor – it’s about authenticity – Koons’ identity as an artist and Hublo...

Hamilton Returns To Call Of Duty With A New Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Fratello
Hamilton Returns Sep 17, 2026

Hamilton Returns To Call Of Duty With A New Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm

Do you have October 23rd marked in your calendar? If so, that’s probably because that’s when Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 4 is coming out. Today, however, we see the watch that goes with the video game. Hamilton returns to Call of Duty with a new Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm in black PVD steel. It […] Visit Hamilton Returns To Call Of Duty With A New Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm to read the full article.

Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock Fratello
Ressence s New Type 9 Sep 17, 2026

Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock

Recently, Lex wrote an article asking, “When are watches art?” Of course, there wasn’t a clear answer, as “art” is often an ungraspable concept. However, every once in a while, Benoît Mintiens makes the dial of a Ressence watch available to an artist dear to the Belgian brand. In doing so, he tries to blur […] Visit Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock to read the full article.

Ressence Taps Maze Artist for Latest Type 9 SJX Watches
Ressence Taps Maze Artist Sep 17, 2026

Ressence Taps Maze Artist for Latest Type 9

For the latest installment of the brand’s Art Watch series, Ressence has teamed up with a contemporary Belgian artist for the puzzling Type 9 Jules Wittock. I say ‘puzzling’, because Mr Wittock’s specialty is hand-drawing incredibly detailed mazes, which are both decorative and solvable. By collaborating with Ressence, the artist has devised a clever maze that fits on the rotating dial of the Type 9. Initial thoughts If it seems like you’re seeing more artistic collaborations in watchmaking, you’re probably right. While it’s not a new idea — Swatch released its first artist edition in 1985, just two years into the company’s history — the format feels increasingly common, especially amongst design-oriented brands and independent watchmakers. For Ressence, the Type 9 Jules Wittlock is the latest in a line of artist collaborations, including works with Shantell Martin, Stefan Sagmeister, and Daniel Engelberg. The brand has also worked with designers like Alain Silberstein and Marc Newson — two regular contributors watch-related projects. While most artist collaborations result in a fairly straightforward dial variant, Ressence is perhaps uniquely suited to the format, with its rotating dial capable of creating a dynamic tableau. In this case, Mr Wittock has taken full advantage of this technical aspect of the watch with a functional, hand-drawn maze, complete with a secret message that reveals itself in the pattern twice per day. Fortunately, the pattern...

Business News: FHH Teams With GIA's School Of Gemology And Jewelry Arts Hodinkee
Ming Sep 17, 2026

Business News: FHH Teams With GIA's School Of Gemology And Jewelry Arts

The Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH) struck a strategic academic collaboration agreement with the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and its School of Gemology and Jewelry Arts, aiming to bring more watch industry knowledge, training, and certification to a wider audience. The agreement will have the two non-profit organizations collaborate on educational initiatives, certification, and instruction, using the GIA's international physical and online infrastructure. Founded in 1931 with campus, laboratory, and research center locations ranging from the U.S. and the U.K. to Africa and Asia, from Bangkok to India, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, the GIA has trained more than 200,000 professionals in jewelry and gems.   Johanna Levy, (left) Vice President, Communications & Corporate Affairs, Gemological Institute of America, Aurélie Streit, Vice President of the FHH.Image Courtesy FHH The collaboration could significantly expand the FHH mandate to provide watchmaking, culture, and industry knowledge to more industry professionals, collectors, and consumers, while broadening the GIA's educational scope for professionals in this closely linked sector. "For GIA students and alumni, it's such a great opportunity to be able to access a completely new set of knowledge with watchmaking," Johanna Levy, vice-president of the ESG Programs at the GIA, said in an interview. "There is a desire to learn more, to learn more craft, to learn more in person. So it's really not only to equip our st...

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models Fratello
Rolex Models When it comes Sep 17, 2026

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models

When it comes to vintage watches, few brands have as much depth as Rolex. Over more than a century, the company has produced an enormous range of models, references, and variations that have become firmly established among collectors. From tool watches built for specific purposes to understated everyday models, there’s plenty to explore beyond the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models to read the full article.

Photo Report: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Girard Perregaux MB&F; Sep 16, 2026

Photo Report: Geneva Watch Days 2026

I'll admit it, Geneva Watch Days is one of my favourite times in the city. It's when our industry reunites after a long, heatwave-themed summer to meet friends from all corners of the watch world and get hands-on with the latest pieces from some of the hottest and most interesting brands. And that's the thing about this summer show: while Watches & Wonders draws our attention to the larger players, Geneva Watch Days lets us take a breather, slow this rapidly moving industry right down, and spend time with watches and brands of all sizes. Don't get me wrong, Bvlgari, Zenith, Daniel Roth, Girard Perregaux, MB&F;, and Breitling attend, but its city-centered format and later date on the calendar mean there's much more time to see smaller names and discover new ones. The 2026 edition set a new record with 71 participating brands, unveiling nearly 400 new releases. More than 2,500 private clients, collectors, and watch enthusiasts attended, alongside more than 500 international media and content creators. However, this year's edition drew 15,000 people in total, down from last year's peak of 17,000. News from the brands exhibiting was certainly plentiful and felt increasingly significant compared to previous iterations of the show (Breitling's House of Brands used the show to unveil Gallet to the world, and MAD Editions by MB&F; announced the MAD 3 - more on those in a moment). Yet on more than one occasion, conversations centered around how the show felt a little quieter than pre...

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons SJX Watches
Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog Sep 16, 2026

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons

Hublot has just unveiled the Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons, its latest — and arguably most striking — collaboration with a contemporary artist. Crafted from anodised aluminium, the case of the watch is delicately machined to almost perfectly replicate the creased, metallic look of a mylar balloon. The plump inflated look extends to the dial and strap, and the watch can be had in three different colours — red, blue, and silver — each of which is limited to 200 pieces. The Balloon Dog is powered by the HUB1710, an upmarket execution of the in-group Zenith Elite platform. Initial thoughts Jeff Koons is likely one of the few contemporary artists with mainstream name recognition outside the world of fine art. While he is arguably best known for his large-scale sculptures, including the Balloon Dog referenced by his collaboration with Hublot, he has had a prolific career and worked in numerous mediums. But it is his ability to replicate the tight, creased look of inflated latex and mylar in materials like stainless steel and aluminium that have cemented his status in the world of contemporary art. The Classic Fusion Balloon Dog taps exactly this expertise, crafted in anodised aluminium with a rounded, puffy form that transforms the sharp, angular Hublot style into something more soft and playful. The result is immediately recognisable thanks to the thoughtfulness of the execution. The familiar Hublot details are present, but have been carefully machined to loo...

echo/neutra refreshes its ultra functional 1956 Chrono GMT with a dose of colour Time+Tide
Sep 16, 2026

echo/neutra refreshes its ultra functional 1956 Chrono GMT with a dose of colour

Echo/Neutra updates its 1956 Chrono GMT with two new colourways  With a brown-and-taupe Cappuccino model and a deep-wine-toned Purple model, both inject colour into a highly functional watch with chronograph and GMT functions.  Available now, the Echo/Neutra 1956 Chrono GMT in both Cappuccino and Purple start at US$2,400 on a strap.  Echo/neutra has gotten a lot … Continued

Six Omega Stopwatches And A Lost NZ Racetrack Fratello
Omega Stopwatches Sep 15, 2026

Six Omega Stopwatches And A Lost NZ Racetrack

Here at Fratello, we get to cover all manner of watch-related stories. These include so many different watchmakers, from Rolex to Seiko to IWC. Omega, however, occupies a special place within the pantheon of watch brands for us. Today, we have a slightly different Omega story featuring stopwatches and a slice of New Zealand history. […] Visit Six Omega Stopwatches And A Lost NZ Racetrack to read the full article.

Auctions: Six Observations From Sotheby's September 18 Hong Kong Sale Hodinkee
Ming Sep 15, 2026

Auctions: Six Observations From Sotheby's September 18 Hong Kong Sale

Ready or not, auction season is back. I don't know about you, but I wasn't expecting it so soon. While the auction cycle is generally synced up for Geneva and New York sales a bit later in the fall, Sotheby's is doing the earliest big sale of the fall with "Important Watches" in Hong Kong on September 18.  Personally, I'm still working through the best way to handle auction coverage, as the number of watches is often daunting. That challenge gets worse with Hong Kong sales, which we've generally struggled to stay on top of for a number of reasons. One of which, and this is a complaint for all auction houses, is that there are too many lots in Hong Kong sales. This is driven by both the market location (many of these watches were sourced locally—something I know because I know a decent number of these watches) and the forces behind the auction house and its metrics. Sometimes you have to make sellers happy and take what they want to get at other things (like taking random Hermès bags in a watch sale, as we see this time). It can be overwhelming for a buyer, and for you and me as readers. I want to find the interesting, great deals in the mid- and low-range and share them with you, but I also can't ignore the impressive pieces that might shape the broader market. One important note: for Hong Kong sales, I never get to see the watches in person. It's a lot easier for me to stand in front of a case of watches and pick things up by feel, closely evaluate condition and origi...

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud Sep 15, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1

The slate of truly new releases from Geneva Watch Days was fairly limited, but among the many new variants of existing models, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 stood out for its lightweight and richly tactile ceramised titanium case and casual, almost sporty look. Initial thoughts Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) is no stranger to exotic case materials, having used ceramised titanium before (for the FB 1RES.4) as well as carburised stainless steel and bronze. But the FB 3SPC.4-1 is just the second FB 3SPC to come dressed in a non-precious metal case, and the first with a ceramised coating. The FB 3SPC arguably gives up some ground in the looks department, though this is subjective; many collectors find the exposed movement preferable to a conventional dial, since it makes it easier to appreciate the finishing without taking off the watch. That said, the design impacts legibility and some aspects of the layout seem counterintuitive, such as the upside-down orientation of the dial-side balance wheel. The FB 3SPC debuted in 2022 and remains the high-end brand’s entry level model, though with a retail price approaching US$200,000, it’s priced in line with complicated models from established brands. The value proposition of this time-only watch hinges on the appeal of the cylindrical hairspring — which while not unique in contemporary watchmaking is executed superbly — and the no-expense-spared approach to finishing that FB is known for. The pricing also reflects the low-volum...

Introducing: Supernova Serena Williams Gets Her Own Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Serena Williams Sep 15, 2026

Introducing: Supernova Serena Williams Gets Her Own Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Serena Williams has been playing professional tennis since 1995. In the decades since, she has won 23 Grand Slam singles titles, but perhaps more importantly, she has broken through barriers of race, age, and background while upending tennis's traditional dress codes. Clothes, and by extension accessories, have always been part of that story. In 2022, New York Times chief fashion critic Vanessa Friedman called Williams "the game-changing tennis player" who used her clothes "as a statement of self and a weapon of change." Williams understood early on that what she wore on court could be another form of expression: sometimes provocative, sometimes playful. At the 2002 US Open, she broke conservative norms in a skin-tight black Puma catsuit, accessorized with a Harry Winston diamond bracelet. Seventeen years later, at the 2019 French Open, she wore a Nike look designed by Virgil Abloh for Off-White printed with the words "Mother, Champion, Queen, Goddess" in French, an especially pointed choice given that, just a year earlier, the tournament had taken issue with the black Nike catsuit she wore on court. Serena Williams at the 2024 Met Gala, wearing an Audemars Piguet Sandgold Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked . That influence has extended far beyond the baseline. A Vogue cover star, Met Gala co-chairwoman, perennial tennis-court style-setter, and personal friend of Anna Wintour, Williams occupied the increasingly porous space between sport and fashion long before the res...

50 Years Of IWC’s Ingenieur SL Designed By Gérald Genta - A New IWC Ingenieur Automatic In Two Sizes Fratello
IWC s Ingenieur SL Designed Sep 15, 2026

50 Years Of IWC’s Ingenieur SL Designed By Gérald Genta - A New IWC Ingenieur Automatic In Two Sizes

Gérald Genta designed many masterpieces during his lifetime, but the IWC Ingenieur SL is often mentioned in the same breath as two of his greatest designs from the same decade. The IWC Ingenieur SL1832 was introduced in 1976, and 50 years later, it might be even stronger than ever. To celebrate this milestone, IWC has […] Visit 50 Years Of IWC’s Ingenieur SL Designed By Gérald Genta — A New IWC Ingenieur Automatic In Two Sizes to read the full article.

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection Monochrome
Sep 15, 2026

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection

Founded by Toni Brodführer, DUG Glashütte focuses on producing watches in accordance with the requirements of the Glashütte designation of origin, and the inaugural Purist was conceived as a straightforward proposition built around the traditions of Saxon watchmaking. The brand is now expanding the collection with a smaller case. The new Purist 37 retains the […]

Introducing: Victorinox Maverick (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Victorinox Maverick Live Pics What Sep 14, 2026

Introducing: Victorinox Maverick (Live Pics)

What We Know Victorinox has refreshed the Maverick in what amounts to the most dramatic reinvention of the line since it was first introduced over two decades ago. The Maverick line has long been a fixture in Victorinox's watch offerings, and the new generation introduced this week reinforces its position as Victorinox's "dressy" take on a dive (or dive-inspired) watch. The new Maverick, available in a handful of colors across quartz and automatic models, largely keeps the same ethos and intent as previous Mavericks, but sheds much (read: nearly all) of the visual identity that has made the Maverick recognizable over the last twenty-odd years. Now measuring 39mm across, the new watches are simpler, smaller, and more focused in their design than the outgoing generation. The watch is available in two basic models — one quartz, powered by a Ronda 715 movement, and the other automatic, powered by a Sellita SW200. The watches are largely similar, but a few subtle differences remain. The first is the bezel (bidirectional on both models). The quartz version uses a polished mineral insert, while the automatic uses a polished ceramic with a fully luminous scale. The markers are also slightly different, and while each version's caseback is decorated with a Swiss Army Knife, the caseback on the automatic is transparent with a wireframe graphic, while that of the quartz is solid with an engraved image. Beyond that, these watches are very similar, so choices come down to movement and...

Introducing: Benrus Type 3X (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Sep 14, 2026

Introducing: Benrus Type 3X (Live Pics)

What We Know With Benrus's revival well underway, 2026 opened with the reintroduction of the Sky Chief, a longtime Hodinkee favorite. Now the brand follows it with something new rather than another reissue: the Type 3X, developed in collaboration with U.S. Special Forces veterans. The watch traces back to the same premise that produced the original Type I and Type II: in the 1970s, the U.S. military wrote a formal MIL-SPEC for a wristwatch, and Benrus built the result. For the Type 3X, Benrus assembled a team of former Tier One special operations veterans to design a modern version of that watch from the ground up, prioritizing function over styling.  The Type 3X comes in two styles: one with a black composite-carbon case and a green mid-case, and another with a silver case and a black mid-case. Both pair a unidirectional rotating titanium dive bezel with an aluminum inner ring, and a single-domed sapphire crystal with a double anti-reflective coating. The black dial carries Old Radium Super-LumiNova on the markers and hands, with a date window aperture at 6 o'clock. Inside is the ETA 2893 automatic movement, delivering a 42-hour power reserve, 250 gauss of anti-magnetic resistance, and a 24-hour quickset GMT hand offering "caller-style" functionality. Water resistance is rated to 20 atm (660 feet). The case closes with a titanium caseback featuring the Benrus logo. The Type 3X comes on a color matching velcro fabric strap with an additional black rubber strap included. I...