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The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance 2 days ago

The Business of Watches Podcast: Q & A Episode - Your Business Questions Answered By The Hodinkee Team

This week on The Business of Watches, we take your questions on the business of timekeeping. We're joined by a swath of the Hodinkee team, including Editor-in-Chief James Stacey, Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich, and Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang.  We're answering your questions and marking 30 episodes of BoW. You submitted some excellent questions, including how changes in 3D printing technology will impact watch movement manufacturing, whether watch brands consider enthusiasts' preferences in their design and release schedules, and what the future of multi-brand watch boutiques looks like.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversations. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes1:18 F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold (Hodinkee)2:35 Kari Voutilainen 2:47 Marteau: The Heat Wave4:08 The Barrelhand Monolith Has Landed (Hodinkee) 11:45 Ming Polymesh (Hodinkee) 12:40 Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito (The Business of Watches) 13:10 Peanuts Watches by Citizen (collectpeanuts.com) 15:03 Timex 15:50 We Criticize The Wrong Thing When We Attack ...

In Depth: Leroy 01 SJX Watches
Breguet No 160 May 22, 2026

In Depth: Leroy 01

The pocket watch format is experiencing an unexpected renaissance. From auction salerooms to high street queues, collectors of all stripes are talking about pocket watches more than at any time in recent memory. That makes it a perfect time to continue our series on groundbreaking historical pocket watches, including Breguet No. 160. This installment analyses the Leroy 01, which reigned as world’s most complicated watch — by most measures — for 85 years. The calm before the storm On the first of November 1897, Charles Piguet began work on an ébauche for which no contract yet existed. In his workshop at Le Sentier, a stone village strung along the floor of the Vallée de Joux at an altitude where winter arrives early and stays long, he opened a commission that would occupy the better part of seven years and produce the most complicated portable timepiece ever constructed. The formal agreement with his client, the Parisian house of L. Leroy & Cie — formerly known as Le Roy & Fils — would not be signed until January 1898. Piguet started anyway. In the Vallée de Joux, a man’s word was sufficient. This detail — two months of work before the ink dried — says something essential about the relationship between the French brand and the Swiss établisseurs on whom it depended. L. Leroy & Cie, founded in Paris in 1785 by Basile-Charles Leroy, had maintained that relationship across generations. When Louis Leroy, who had acquired the firm in 1889 and established a ma...

The Louis Erard Le Régulateur Esprit Flinqué in Grey – a Worn & Wound Collaboration, Revisited Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Esprit Flinqué Apr 22, 2026

The Louis Erard Le Régulateur Esprit Flinqué in Grey – a Worn & Wound Collaboration, Revisited

Late last year, we launched one of the most ambitious limited edition collaborations we’ve ever undertaken: the Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Le Régulateur. Developed over the course of three years, the project began with a concept from our side that pushed beyond anything we had done before. Realizing that vision required extensive R&D; to bring it to life at the highest possible standard, but the result was something truly distinct. Our goal with collaborations is always to create something unique, something special, and in this case, the outcome was a watch that stood apart from anything else. Layered, elaborate, provocative, and even a touch challenging, it’s a design that holds its own in even the most esoteric collections. the Worn & Wound x Louis Erard collaboration from 2025 Because the design itself was so original, and the execution so involved, it felt unfortunate for its life to be limited to just the 99 blue models of the initial release. During development, Louis Erard explored several alternate dial colors, some of them quite unconventional. While the design translated surprisingly well across these variations, there was something compelling about the restraint of the grey version that ultimately set it apart. Yes, grey and black are often the safe choices, but here, the result feels anything but typical. Zach Weiss’ Design from the 2022 pitch deck Now known as the “Le Régulateur Esprit Flinqué,” the design set out to rethink the regulator display w...

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection Apr 16, 2026

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection

Jaeger‑LeCoultre reshapes the Master Control line with three new Chronometre models in two materials. The collection takes inspiration from the integrated case and bracelet first seen on the Master Mariner Chronomètre in 1973. This time, the execution feels thoroughly modern and far more refined. The lineup includes the 38mm time-and-date model, a 39mm version with […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Collection to read the full article.

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Gets new Dials Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Gets Apr 14, 2026

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Gets new Dials

The Historiques American 1921 is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most recognisable heritage revivals: a cushion-cased, asymmetrical wristwatch inspired by early-1920s designs. Made for the American market in 1921, the distinctive wristwatch, with its 45-degree-rotated dial and unconventional crown placement, made it practical for motorists who could read the time without taking their hands off the […]

Introducing – The New Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, with New Movement Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Apr 14, 2026

Introducing – The New Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, with New Movement

Since its debut in 2012, the Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, like its Perpetual Calendar, has become one of the brand’s defining watches. Combining a practical travel complication with in-house mechanics at accessible pricing, it quickly became a cornerstone of the catalogue. Now, more than a decade later, Frederique Constant introduces a thoroughly updated version […]

Introducing – Dominique Renaud Launches New Brand and Presents the One-Hertz-Beating Pulse60 Watch Monochrome
Mar 17, 2026

Introducing – Dominique Renaud Launches New Brand and Presents the One-Hertz-Beating Pulse60 Watch

If high-frequency is often marketed as the pinnacle of precision in modern watchmaking, things are actually more nuanced and more about managing the inevitable trade-offs. Every gain in one area usually comes with a drawback elsewhere. Although he has already worked on high-frequency, low amplitude oscillators, industry veteran Dominique Renaud is now taking the opposite […]

Marathon Expands the Anthracite SAR Collection Worn & Wound
Marathon Mar 5, 2026

Marathon Expands the Anthracite SAR Collection

Like the now-ubiquitous diver and pilot styles, the mil-spec field watch is experiencing a moment in the sun. The appeal is easy to understand: much like how the original Willy’s Jeep took to post-war civilian life by offering cheap, rugged, and reliable transportation, the military-styled field watch offers significant toughness while keeping functionality simple and usable for everyday telling. Put simply, it’s a romantic promise of adventure and bravado, scaled down to wristsize. Canadian watchmaker Marathon has been making mil-spec timepieces since WWII, and has offered tactical variants like the 41mm Anthracite GSAR for those looking for that covert ops image; the new 46mm Anthracite Jumbo Day/Date, and the 36mm Anthracite MSAR Auto straddle that original model in the Anthracite lineup, and offer further complications for the enthusiast audience. The two new models in the Anthracite Search and Rescue (SAR) Unit borrow heavily from their 41mm predecessor in both styling and construction. Both feature a 316L stainless steel case with titular Anthracite finish, a uni-directional bezel, a screw-down crown, and tritium gas tube and MaraGlo luminous numerals, hands, and markers. Visually, the watches look very similar; Marathon’s legible and surprisingly un-aggressive typefaces keep the white numerals crisp and clear against the black dial. The overall styling is complicated but not visually distracting, an important aesthetic facet for a field watch.  On the 46mm mo...

Piaget Polo Review: How The '80s Luxury Watch Icon Holds Up Teddy Baldassarre
Piaget Dec 1, 2025

Piaget Polo Review: How The '80s Luxury Watch Icon Holds Up

While it’s more widely known for its jewelry these days, Piaget, founded in the small Swiss village of La Cote-aux-Fées by Georges Piaget in 1874, has been a watchmaker from the beginning. Its original trade, in fact, was making movements, and the company began making complete watches in In the 20th century. Before getting into the Piaget Polo, it's worth it to get into the brand's history in thin watchmaking. Since 1957, when Piaget created the historic 2mm-thick Caliber 9P, the company has been world renowned for the elegant thinness of its watches and movements. The world’s thinnest self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber 12P, followed Caliber 9P just three years later, in 1960, and Piaget has building upon these foundations ever since. Its most recent triumph in this area was the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which debuted in 2018 as a prototype and hit the market in 2020; the entire watch, case and movement, is just 2mm thick, matching the wafer thinness of the original Caliber 9P. Along with Bulgari, another watchmaker known more for its jewelry, Piaget continues to embody the ne plus ultra of what ultra-thin watchmaking can accomplish.  [toc-section heading="The Integrated Bracelet Era Begins"] However, while “thin and elegant” remains the calling card of the Piaget watch brand overall, the market was looking for something a little different - a little bolder, perhaps - in the 1970s. Audemars Piguet had introduced its groundbreaking Royal Oak “Jumbo...

Introducing – A Lesson in Dress Watch Etiquette with the New Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage x seconde/seconde Monochrome
Raymond Weil Dec 1, 2025

Introducing – A Lesson in Dress Watch Etiquette with the New Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage x seconde/seconde

Raymond Weil is on a roll. As a brand we rarely covered, third-generation CEO Elie Bernheim is upping the tempo for the family-run Geneva-based brand. What started with the well-designed, retro-inspired MiIllesime of 2024, designed from scratch with contemporary specs, is now a fully fledged and very successful collection. Recently treated to a makeover, the […]

First Look – The Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic Bamford Special Edition Monochrome
Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic Bamford Nov 20, 2025

First Look – The Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic Bamford Special Edition

Frederique Constant and Bamford Watch Department approach watch design from opposite corners of the industry, yet both operate within clear, self-defined parameters. Frederique Constant has built its reputation on accessible mechanical watchmaking, manufacturing calibres in-house and maintaining a pragmatic, function-first approach to design. Bamford, by contrast, is known for reinterpreting established forms through high-contrast palettes, […]

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Few chronographs Sep 26, 2025

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph

Few chronographs capture the spirit of their era as vividly as the Heuer Monaco. Born at the crossroads of watchmaking tradition and a rapidly changing world, it arrived in 1969 with angles as sharp as the decade itself. Following our article covering the story of the Heuer Carrera Chronograph, we now look at the history […]

Seiko Introduces Six New Speedtimers, Including Three Limited Editions Celebrating the Datsun 240Z Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Six New Speedtimers Aug 5, 2025

Seiko Introduces Six New Speedtimers, Including Three Limited Editions Celebrating the Datsun 240Z

We’re several years deep into the era of collaborative, limited edition watch releases, and while a lot of the hype has subsided around some of these drops, there’s no sign that the overall strategy is shifting anytime soon. Brands both large and small are still keen to slap partner logos on dials and casebacks, and draw parallels between watches and, well, you name it. Obviously, the automotive world is ripe for these collaborations, and is the window through which a trio of new Seikos come into our lives. Three limited edition references made in partnership with Datsun are the headline here, but in a smart move, Seiko is simultaneously announcing corresponding regular production models that riff on the same themes without all the branding. So there’s something here for the Datsun enthusiast (of which we know there are many) as well as those that are more inclined to shun this type of commercial cross-polination and just want their watch to be a watch and not an exercise in remembering a very specific link to a carmaker’s history.  The premise for all these watches (or rather, for the limited editions) is Seiko’s relationship with Datsun, which dates back to the early 1970s when Seiko supported the 240Z in races across the world. Most notably, Seiko was a sponsor of the #11 car that won the East-African Safari Rally, a 6,200 kilometer race that is generally regarded as one of the most challenging on the international circuit.  All of the watches discussed here...

Introducing: The MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase – Moonshine Gold Fratello
Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch collection Aug 3, 2025

Introducing: The MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase – Moonshine Gold

Back in March 2022, the watch world experienced something rarely seen - a global frenzy, not over a mechanical masterpiece or a limited-edition grail but, instead, a battery-powered, (Bioceramic) plastic-bodied chronograph. The original Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch collection dropped without much warning, causing scenes that rivaled those of sneaker releases. People queued overnight outside Swatch […] Visit Introducing: The MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase – Moonshine Gold to read the full article.

Bremont Revives the Orange Barrel for the MB Meteor SJX Watches
Bremont Revives Jul 29, 2025

Bremont Revives the Orange Barrel for the MB Meteor

One of Bremont’s best known pilot’s watches is undoubtedly the “MB”, now in its latest iteration as the Altitude MB Meteor. Now led by Davide Cerrato and controlled by hedge fund manager Bill Ackman, Bremont has focused on aviator’s watch since its founding. The MB was one of its earliest models – “MB” is short for Martin-Baker, the British company that produces ejection seats, primarily for jet fighter aircraft, including the Eurofighter Typhoon and Lockheed Martin F-35. The original MBI was produced exclusively for pilots who successfully ejected with a Martin-Baker ejection seat, and that spawned a line of commercially available MB models. The MB Meteor continues the collection with a redesigned case in titanium, now with a striking orange “barrel”, a knurled case middle that gets its colour from a ceramic coating. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the MB series because of the ejection seat connection. Admittedly, the link is a good dose of marketing, but it’s good storytelling that makes for a cool watch. The fact that the MB models in general are robust, no-frills, and relatively affordable also add to their appeal. The MB Meteor is the latest generation in the series. The model was already launched some months ago, but with a case “barrel” in plain colours. The new orange barrel is a standout feature, because it is the closest thing to the red barrel of the model that is available only to pilots who have ejected from a Martin-Baker seat. ...