SJX Watches
Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1
The slate of truly new releases from Geneva Watch Days was fairly limited, but among the many new variants of existing models, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 stood out for its lightweight and richly tactile ceramised titanium case and casual, almost sporty look. Initial thoughts Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) is no stranger to exotic case materials, having used ceramised titanium before (for the FB 1RES.4) as well as carburised stainless steel and bronze. But the FB 3SPC.4-1 is just the second FB 3SPC to come dressed in a non-precious metal case, and the first with a ceramised coating. The FB 3SPC arguably gives up some ground in the looks department, though this is subjective; many collectors find the exposed movement preferable to a conventional dial, since it makes it easier to appreciate the finishing without taking off the watch. That said, the design impacts legibility and some aspects of the layout seem counterintuitive, such as the upside-down orientation of the dial-side balance wheel. The FB 3SPC debuted in 2022 and remains the high-end brand’s entry level model, though with a retail price approaching US$200,000, it’s priced in line with complicated models from established brands. The value proposition of this time-only watch hinges on the appeal of the cylindrical hairspring — which while not unique in contemporary watchmaking is executed superbly — and the no-expense-spared approach to finishing that FB is known for. The pricing also reflects the low-volum...