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Time+Tide
Zaratsu polishing can achieve a distortion-free mirror finish on a watch case. But what is it exactly, and where did it come from?The post A distortion-free explanation of what Zaratsu polishing actually is, and its not-so-Japanese origins appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
At Watches & Wonders 2026, Grand Seiko’s newest addition to the Elegance Collection brings together the things it does best. Namely, intricately textured dials with a nod to Japanese artistry, and its flagship Caliber 9R Spring Drive. Engraved to resemble a weathered rock face, the SBGY043’s striking dial suggests the appearance of a mountain at dusk: Grand Seiko calls this pattern iwao, which translates to rock or crag. Depending on the angle it’s viewed from behind its domed sapphire crystal, different facets take on intermingling light and dark tones of blue, purple, and black. Its color is inspired by the tradition of katsuiro dyeing, a centuries-old technique and reportedly a favorite among the samurai class, which produces a deep indigo hue. Set against bright silver markers and hands - no blued seconds hand here, which is almost its own Grand Seiko tradition - it makes for an especially understated contrast. This Iwao Blue version runs on the Caliber 9R31, a manual-wind Spring Drive movement with a 72-hour power reserve and visible through a clear caseback. The case is among the slimmest in the Elegance Collection, with standard zaratsu polishing and soft, rounded lugs. A nine-row stainless steel bracelet is the only option, which reflects the craggy-faced dial’s aura of ruggedness. Grand Seiko enthusiasts, of which there are many, might remember this dial from 2021 - albeit in a sharp-angled Heritage case and with a Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive mov...
Teddy Baldassarre
Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...
Worn & Wound
With Grand Seiko’s rise to popularity in the last few years, it’s hard to find a truly obscure model. And yet, here we are. No, it’s not some vintage reference buried in the archives or a short-lived limited edition you didn’t know about. It’s a modern watch-one that was still available as recently as fall 2023. It wasn’t exclusive to a single boutique, and yet, you’ve likely never seen it before. Why? Because it’s a Japanese domestic model that’s flown almost entirely under the radar. The watch is the Grand Seiko SBGX331-and by the time you finish reading this, you might just want one yourself. So, how did I end up with the SBGX331? Back in September 2023, I had the chance to travel to Japan as part of the Grand Seiko Media Experience-a whirlwind tour of Seiko and Grand Seiko’s facilities across Honshu. Over just a few days, we visited multiple workshops, watched artisans at work, and took in various presentations on the brand’s history, movements, and proprietary technologies. We saw case finishing, dial printing, and even the production of Credor Eichi II dials. And yes, we ate-a lot. For a more detailed breakdown of that trip, check out my write-up here. As a longtime Grand Seiko fan, it wasn’t so much a crash course as it was a chance to confirm that all the stories I’d read-and in some cases repeated-were actually real. Seeing Zaratsu polishing done in person, or hands being heat-blued to a precise hue, or watching minute indices...
Teddy Baldassarre
If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...
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![[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion”](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/04/GS_WW_Tentagraph_030.jpg)
Worn & Wound
When the Tentagraph was introduced at Watches & Wonders a few years ago, it was, in its way, a pretty radical idea. Grand Seiko, somewhat surprisingly, had never developed a mechanical chronograph to that point, and the high frequency movement at work in the Tentagraph was and is a significant accomplishment. For Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko has introduced a new spin on the Tentagraph that is perhaps as equally radical as the introduction of the first Tentagraph in 2023. The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (reference SLGC009) puts the Tentagraph into a new context entirely, using what might be Grand Seiko’s most avant-garde and aggressive case shape. The “Lion” chronographs, which have previously only existed with Spring Drive movements, are characterized by a 43mm titanium case with around 40 facets. That, folks, is a lot of facets, and with the Grand Seiko’s zaratsu polishing applied liberally throughout, it’s one of the most dynamic and intriguing cases in their catalog. It’s also, of course, not for everyone. The severe case lines might be a bit of an acquired taste, and the whole thing has an almost M.C. Escher-like quality about it. As someone who personally struggled with geometry in middle school, this case, when I first saw it, gave me no shortage of anxiety. Over the years though, as I’ve had more experience handling these complex cases, my appreciation has grown, and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph jumped out to me as one of the more special release...
Worn & Wound
We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog. Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridg...
SJX Watches
Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...
![[VIDEO] Round Table: Why We Collect Grand Seiko](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2022/06/2022-05-GRAND-SEIKO-02752000x1333px.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Without a doubt, something that binds the Worn & Wound editorial team together is a love and appreciation for Grand Seiko. Zach Weiss, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan are all genuine fans of the brand, and have owned virtually every category of modern Grand Seiko over the years. From the gorgeous Zaratsu polishing to the true ingenuity of their in-house movements and unique textured dials, there’s no shortage of pathways to finding a way to love Grand Seiko. In this video, Zach W., Kat, and Zach K. discuss how they first encountered the brand and why they continue to appreciate these watches. They also talk about their own Grand Seiko collections, watches they currently own and have owned in the past, and show you exactly what they enjoy about them. This is a conversation about the Grand Seiko ownership experience as much as it is about the experience of collecting. Also in this video, Zach Weiss tells us about his recent trip to Japan to see Grand Seiko’s manufacturing facilities up close, and shows us the watch he picked up as a keepsake that can only be found for sale in the brand’s home country. The post [VIDEO] Round Table: Why We Collect Grand Seiko appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
The Sport case inspired by the Grand Seiko emblem is a fairly new addition to the brand’s stable, having made its debut in 2019 with a trio of limited editions to mark the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive. Now the distinctive facetted case joins the regular collection with the Sport Spring Drive SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”. The big and bold case is accompanied by a fresh opaline dial featuring a texture reminiscent of a lion’s mane. Initial thoughts Although Grand Seiko historically expended a significant amount of effort in developing its more formal offerings, it more recently extended its efforts towards its Sports line, particularly the “Lion” models with its trademark facetted case. Initially found only on limited editions, this case has now transitioned into a readily-available production model. As with many Grand Seiko watches, sports or not, the Tokyo Lion’s standout feature is the dial, specifically the intricate and abstract textured pattern that complements the zaratsu polishing on the titanium case. The pattern is appealing enough that I hope the brand further iterates on this captivating pattern; though I expect that is a given since Grand Seiko inevitably iterates on successful models and elements. It is worth noting that the Tokyo Lion is fairly oversized at 44.5 mm, like many Grand Seiko Sports models, but given that the case and bracelet are made from titanium, it should feel light and comfortable while on the wrist. The Tokyo Lion is pric...
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Hodinkee
This weekend we're talking Zaratsu polishing, textured dial work, and what's still one of the best value props in all of luxury watchmaking.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko are loved for lots of different reasons from the Spring Drive movement to Zaratsu polishing and the impressive value that they offer collectors and enthusiasts. They are also the brand that comes to mind when you think of quality quartz watchmaking and this year Grand Seiko are celebrating the 140th anniversary of the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 are “go-anywhere, do anything” watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Unsurprisingly, my plans for the year have already been led astray by Chrono24 and its infallible feeds. Following my story on whether or not to perform what I envisioned as a final upgrade in the Seiko dive game, I folded. I sold my Marinemaster SLA023 and searched for an SBGX335/337, only to find that the […] Visit The Grand Seiko SBGX265 - A Pre-Owned Entry Ticket To Zaratsu Stardom to read the full article.
Deployant
Part 2/3 of our Inside Seiko special feature takes us into the manufacture in Shiojiri. We see cold forging of cases, zaratsu and the 9F quartz movement.
Revolution
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Time+Tide
The diver has pretty much become the quintessential watch - and here are some of the best.The post 13 of the best dive watches for all sorts of aquatic adventures appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What do you get the man who has everything? We've rounded up a few horological Father's Day gift ideas that'll be sure to please any watch-loving dad.The post The Time+Tide Father’s Day gift guide, for all sorts of watch-loving dads appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having been established by Kyowa Co., Ltd, a precision toolmaker that also produces watch cases and bracelets, Minase is a brand that excels in, well, cases and bracelets. Its specialty is the high degree of surface finishing of the case and bracelet using the Zaratsu, or Sallaz, polishing technique that creates a remarkably flat, mirrored surface. Minase just gave its flagship Divido a new dégradé dial, which has a dark grey finish that darkens to black around the edges. Though similar looking dials are offered by Swiss watchmakers, and sometimes known as fumè or smoked dials, the new Divido dial is distinctly Japanese. Inspired by Japanese sumi-e paintings – that rely on different concentrations of black ink for shading and depth – the dégradé dial starts as a copper disc that is the hand-painted with several layers of black Japanese lacquer, each layer with a different concentration of black, creating the graduated finish and leaving each dial unique. The dégradé lacquer dial costs about 10% more than the standard model, which is reasonable. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard Divido, which is to say extremely sharply finished. All components of the case and bracelet are produced and finished in house. Every surface of the case is finished, with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces employed throughout. Even the folding clasp sports with a mix of surfaces finishes. The polished surfaces are finished with the Zaratsu technique – that...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seiko SNR058 is a US-only Prospex LX GMT combining Spring Drive accuracy, Zaratsu-polished titanium, and warm gradient design.
SJX Watches
Seiko has introduced the Prospex LX GMT SNR058, a luxury-leaning sport watch inspired by the constellation and intended exclusively for the US market. Executed in Zaratsu-polished titanium with Diashield coating, it pairs a richly textured gradient dial with a Spring Drive GMT movement more commonly associated with Grand Seiko. In doing so, the SNR058 blurs the line between Seiko and its grander cousin, inviting comparison not on branding, but on tangible quality. Initial thoughts According to Seiko, this US-exclusive special edition evokes the North America Nebula in the Cygnus constellation, named for its resemblance to the continent. It is, presumably, a coincidence that the dial also recalls a frosted glass of root beer; arguably a more recognisable symbol of the US market than any nebula. Regardless, either reading feels apt for a United States-only edition. On paper, the Prospex LX line blurs the line between the Seiko and its grander cousin. The collection holds up well next to similar watches from Grand Seiko, pairing a more assertive, utilitarian aesthetic with a more cohesive bracelet design. Branding aside, it also presents stronger value proposition thanks to its Diashield-coated titanium case and bracelet; the equivalent models from Grand Seiko come dressed in heavier stainless steel, which scratches (but can also be refinished) more easily. The Prospex LX GMT also benefits from a toolless micro-adjustment system for the bracelet, something increasingly sought...
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SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s latest release, the Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 SLGH027 Limited Edition, is all about the textured dial as is typical of the brand. Inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, a volcano that’s near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi workshop, the radial dial motif is more deeply textured than earlier iterations of the “Mount Iwate” pattern. The rest of the watch is typical of the Evolution 9 “SLGH” model – a high-frequency automatic movement inside a Zaratsu-finish case in from Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary alloy with superior corrosion resistance and a brighter finish than conventional steel. Initial thoughts Of the many Grand Seiko dials, the new Mount Iwate motif stands out. While the latest dial shares the same radial style as the earlier “Mount Iwate” pattern, found on the Tentagraph SLGC001 amongst others, the dial of the SLGH027 has a deeper texture and more pronounced grooves, giving it an elevated aesthetic that is more striking. With so many variants, Grand Seiko’s textured dials are a little cliche at this point, but there is no denying that the watches are still impressively crafted and offer strong value, rivalling the strongest Swiss competition (except in terms of the bracelet). At US$10,500, the SLGH027 is priced similarly to equivalent prior models. While it is substantially more expensive than the average time-and-date Grand Seiko, the price is justified by the top-of-the-line cal. 9SA5, as well as the excellent case and dial wor...
Time+Tide
With Seiko and Grand Seiko on the dial, a high-beat manually wound movement, and a Zaratsu-polished case, the SLGW005 takes us back to the 1960s.The post The Grand Seiko SLGW005 tributes a 1968 45GS with a double-signed Seiko dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...
Fratello
Pre-owned Grand Seiko quartz watches come with Rollie-beating Zaratsu-polished greatness at no extra cost. So, where’s the catch? There is none. I know many of you are still on the fence about even considering quartz for your collection, and I understand you. I was there myself for years until the charm of budget-winning meca-quartz got […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Grand Seiko Quartz Value Is Unbeatable to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko is well-known for a wide array of dial expressions, faceted case geometries, handsome Zaratsu finishing, and, of course, their proprietary Spring Drive system. But as one of few truly vertically integrated manufactures, Grand Seiko does have one glaring gap in their catalogue: complications. Yes, Grand Seiko has previously presented GMT watches and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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