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Christopher Ward Fortis Oris Mar 29, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco!

Last year, after a brief hiatus, the Windup Watch Fair returned to San Francisco to a new venue with more brands than ever before. The venue and show were a big hit, so the team here at Worn & Wound has decided to double down on San Francisco this year with twice as much space and twice as many brands. Held at Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), the same venue as last year, the Windup Watch Fair will play host to a huge assortment of 60+ brands. Among these participating brands will be our Lead Sponsors, namely: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. Each of these will be sharing new and exciting watches for the very first time in the metal at Windup San Francisco. Please join us on Friday, April 28th through Sunday, April 30th. You won’t want to miss it! In addition to our amazing Lead Sponsors, we’ll have a combination of the popular brands you already know and love, as well as a slew of new brands and first-time participants. Here’s a full roster of participating brands. For the first time ever-along with panels, giveaways, happy hours, and food trucks-there will be an entire section of the Fair dedicated to accessory and everyday carry items. We’re calling this section ‘EDC Alley’ and it will feature some of our favorite pocket knife, pen, and boot brands, among so much more. Once you need a break from all the watch and EDC goodness, grab a drink and take a break in the Complecto Lounge. We’re honored to support the Complecto community...

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TAG Heuer Reinvents Mar 29, 2023

TAG Heuer Reinvents an Icon with the Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox”

Does the TAG Heuer Carrera really need an introduction? Well, I suppose to be thorough. One of the iconic motorsport chronographs, it was launched in 1963, deftly combining the sleekness and excitement of the sport that inspired it. While over the decades there have been many variations and evolutions to the Carrera, the original 2447 from 1963 has always served as a source for the brand to go back to when reinvigorating the line. This year is the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, which they already began celebrating back in January with the release of a model that stayed very close to that original reference, though with general modern updates. While that model goes literally back to the Carreras roots, the newly launched Carrera 39mm “glassbox” mixes modern and vintage details into one of the most attractive packages from TAG in some time. There are three models to the collection, two 39mm three-register chronos, and a 42mm chrono-tourbillon. Focusing on the former, the fact that these non-revival, non-limited Carreras are at 39mm is the first aspect to celebrate. This size, while not small by today’s standards nor the same as the original (it was 36mm), is small for TAG, whose modern chronographs are generally 41 – 45mm. I suspect, however, there is a reason for this. As the title “glassbox” literally states, these Carrera’s have large domed sapphire crystals. Like, really large. While it is said they are inspired by the domed Hesalite crystals of 70s Carre...

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Hermes Expands their H08 Collection Mar 29, 2023

Hermes Expands their H08 Collection with Sleek New Three Handers and an Impressive Chronograph

This year, Hermès has expanded their H08 line with their Watches & Wonders novelties, adding several new colors to the base model in their composite case material, as well as a very impressive monopusher chronograph. Hermès is a favorite meeting at Watches & Wonders. The brand has a history that sits well outside traditional Swiss watchmaking culture. As a luxury design house, they are primarily known for their leather work, and the iconography of the brand is largely associated with their roots in equestrian sports. They have greatly expanded their watchmaking reach in recent years, however, with Vaucher supplied movements and a series of winning designs that have legitimized the brand in the watchmaking space.  The H08 was introduced two years ago as the “sporty-chic” Hermès sports watch. This year’s new introductions feature the brand’s very interesting composite material, made from a mix of carbon fiber and graphene powder. The result is a lightweight 39mm case that Hermès claims is resistant to wear, and it has a unique textured appearance that looks almost hammered by hand but is smooth to the touch (Hermès says it’s coated with aluminum and slate powder). Whether or not the aesthetic is appealing will be a largely subjective matter, but the case has a great weight and feel on the wrist, and the cushion shape is comfortable and seems well suited to casual, daily wear. The case is accented with a black ceramic bezel that makes for a great contrast with...

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TAG Heuer who have introduced new Mar 28, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 2 Recap

Day 2 of Watches & Wonders is history, and the Worn & Wound team is back to recap the day’s events once again. Today saw more meetings, more video shoots, and more frantically checking our calendars to make sure we don’t miss a key appointment. There were also plenty of surprises, from brands that we have known and loved for years, and also some that we all want to learn more about. Check our reactions to day 2 below. Zach Kazan Watches and Wonders Day 2 started, thankfully, after a good night’s sleep. To this point, the effects of jetlag have been mostly pretty minimal, and waking up early, having a real breakfast, and starting the day on Swiss time in mind and body was certainly a positive development. Some people come to these shows, put in a full day of work, and party hard well into the evening, and frankly I’m not sure how those people survive the week while meeting deadlines.  I’ve learned that a nice thing that happens at an event like this is that a brand will inevitably surprise you, either with the watches they’re exhibiting, the presentation, or both. That happened today with TAG Heuer, who have introduced new Carreras that are more appealing than just about chronograph I’ve seen them release in the last three or four years. And that’s a lot of chronographs. Zach Weiss will have more on these tomorrow, but they’re an early favorite of the show for me. In person, they were so much stronger than I expected based on the brand supplied images. No...

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Grand Seiko Unveils Mar 28, 2023

Grand Seiko Unveils the Tentagraph, a New Sports Chronograph with a Three Day Power Reserve and High Frequency Movement

This year’s marquee release from Grand Seiko is the all new Tentagraph, an imposing and technically impressive chronograph that makes use of a new high beat caliber and a case shape derived from previous watches in the Evolution 9 Collection. It’s kind of hard to believe, but up until now, Grand Seiko didn’t have a purely mechanical chronograph in their collection. Spring Drive has ruled the day if you need a watch for timing laps, steaks, or anything else, but that changes this year.  With the Tentagraph, which carries reference SLGC001, Grand Seiko introduces a new movement, Caliber 9SC5. This movement is notable for its shared architecture and essential technical features with the next-gen 9SA5, the double-impulse escapement caliber introduced by the brand a few years ago. We’ve seen that basic time and date caliber adopted in a variety of excellent watches in the relatively short time it’s been in production, but this is where the fun really starts: we now have a new caliber derived from the 9SA5, which of course would lead anyone following the brand to think that a) we’ll see more chronographs coming from Grand Seiko within the Evolution 9 Collection and b) we’re likely to see more complications. The 9SA5 now takes its place as a halo caliber, with many possibilities ahead when it comes to variations large and small.  Like the 9SA5, the 9SC5 beats ten times per second and is powered by two barrels giving it a three day power reserve. That’s with the ...

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Czapek Opens Mar 28, 2023

Czapek Opens the Dial of Antarctique in New Révélation

Czapek is following up their new Dark Titanium Antarctique (which we introduced to you right here) with something a bit different in the form of the Révélation. This variant offers an openworked dial to enjoy the new purpose-built SXH7 movement within. Doing open dials is something of an artform, and Czapek has proven quite adept at maximizing the space given. To do so here, they had to alter the core of their SXH5 movement to such a degree that it became something else entirely in the process. The payoff was clearly worth it, offering a beautiful view into the unique design language of Czapek’s movement ethos.  The Antarctique Révélation expands on the rapidly maturing collection, and sets a new tone in the process. This case and bracelet have proven they can easily adapt to a variety of dial configurations, from the very simple, managing the focal point; to the relatively wild, thus relinquishing it. This watch is clearly an example of the latter, with one of those dials that just keeps on giving, with small details and hidden away areas to discover. Perhaps the most interesting part of this watch is the commitment to the movement in an effort to get the openworked details right. It began, according to Czapek, with a request from a fan of the brand. CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel explains: “People were in love with the remarkable design of our SXH5 movement, and we therefore asked ourselves how we could somehow make it visible on the dial” and …”soon a far more...

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Zenith s Defy Revival Shadow Mar 28, 2023

Zenith’s Defy Revival Shadow is a New Look for a Classic

One of the things we love about Zenith is the way they walk the line between unapologetically contemporary (think: the Defy Extreme range) and watches that pay sincere tribute to their past. The latter would encompass much of the Chronomaster collection, for example, which is rife with watches that amount to tasteful updates of much loved vintage pieces. There are times, though, when tributes to heritage and a modern aesthetic collide, and that’s what we have with the new Defy Revival Shadow, a watch that combines the iconic profile of the very first Defy with a blasted titanium treatment that gives it a completely new and modern appearance.  If you’ve been keeping up with Zenith, you’re certainly aware that the Defy Revival has played a major role in their release strategy over the past year, starting with a faithful reissue of the original version last year and then moving on to red and teal. No matter the dial color, though, the dominant design trait of these watches is always the unusual case. There’s really nothing else quite like it. It’s completely compact at just 37mm and has an elaborate 14 sided bezel and 8 sided case that gives the entire package a complex geometry that must have felt quite avant garde when the design was introduced in the 1970s. For this release, Zenith has stripped the case of its signature finishing and given it the same bead blasted titanium treatment as the Chronomaster Revival Shadow. As a sibling to the earlier shadow, this wat...

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Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Gets Full Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Gets Full RLX Titanium Treatment

In what may have been the most predicted move by Rolex in years, the use of their newly introduced RLX grade 5 titanium has taken a step into the Yacht-Master collection, something teased years ago by Sir Ben Ainslie in the form of a dateless prototype. We saw the first official use of the material in this Deepsea Challenge Sea-Dweller revealed earlier this year. The latest release welcomes the stuff within the Yacht-Master collection in the new 42mm reference 226627, and a few of the features we noticed in the Sea-Dweller have returned, tipping what may be titanium exclusive details.  Titanium is having some of a moment in recent years. We’ve seen its use spread from small independents and micro-brands like Boldr and Autodromo, now to the likes of Rolex. It may not be as exotic sounding as it once was, but we’re seeing it used in more inventive ways across the board, predominantly in how it’s finished. Just this year, while attending Watches & Wonders, we’ve learned of two particularly high end titanium watches that have had their production experience delays due to the difficult nature of finishing it to a certain standard. The finishing of this particular titanium watch is very Rolex, with relatively uniform satin brush graining throughout the 42mm case and bracelet, with a chamfer running the length of the lug line. That chamfer on the lug is one of the key details we noted on the titanium Deepsea as well, leading one to believe it could become a detail reserv...

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Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908

Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...

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Zenith Relaunches Mar 28, 2023

Zenith Relaunches the Pilot with Two New Aviation Themed Watches

It’s the year of the Pilot for Zenith. After shoring up their Chronomaster collection and injecting new life into the Defy over the last few years, Zenith has returned to the Pilot collection and given it a complete revamp. The Pilot is a historic line for Zenith, having trademarked the word “Pilote” all the way back in 1888 (and “Pilot” in 1904). In the early days of the company, the brand focused largely on the manufacture of flight instruments and watches for pilots. They of course weren’t the only brand to cut their manufacturing teeth on the burgeoning need for these types of devices, but were (and still are) the only brand to trademark the word “Pilot,” which allows them the opportunity to use it on the dial in a way other brand’s can’t. The new collection is a stab at bringing something very old in Zenith’s history and making it new in a very explicit way. In other words, these aren’t vintage inspired pilot’s watches, but something far more contemporary. There are two new watches making their debut this week, each in two different materials, for a total of four new Pilots flying their way into boutiques soon enough. The Pilot Automatic is a three hander running on the El Primero 3620, the same chrono-less EP movement found in the Defy Skyline collection. We get a date at 6:00, right below a horizontal line that is meant to recall indicators on a pilot’s instrument panel to refer them back to the horizon line. The Arabic numerals are large...

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Grand Seiko SBGA469 I decided Mar 27, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap

Throughout the week, the Worn & Wound team on the ground in Geneva will be bringing you updates on our general impressions of the show as it happens. At the end of the day, you can expect our candid thoughts on the watches we saw, the tenor of the crowd, observations of what people are discussing and really excited about, and, of course, a rundown of all the sandwiches consumed in the press lounge. Without any further delay, here’s our Day 1 recap. Zach Kazan Day 1 of Watches & Wonders began with a choice: which watch to wear? I brought three: my IWC 3706, the Louis Erard I picked up recently, and the Grand Seiko SBGA469. I decided on the Grand Seiko, partly because I had a meeting with them later in the day, and partly because it feels like the dressiest watch I brought with me, and that’s kind of the vibe on the first day of Watches & Wonders.  My first impression of Watches & Wonders last year (my first show) was that of total insanity. It seemed electric, and my memory is that the hall was full of people right from the start. I honestly can’t remember what time we actually arrived on day 1 last year, but this year we were among the first at Palexpo, and the mood was quite a bit more subdued. My first meeting was at 10:00, and until that time we mostly got our bearings as a team, went over the plan we had previously established, and watched the hall fill up (gradually) as we waited for that first appointment. Maybe it’s the fact that this is no longer a brand n...

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Sinn EZM1 When started Mar 27, 2023

A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Gets Trick Automatic Chronograph

A Lange & Sohne came to Watches & Wonders with just a single release this year, and that’s all they needed to make a big impression. The watch is a new member of the Odysseus family, and it welcomes the brand’s first automatic chronograph. Like all of Lange chronograph movements, the new L156.1 within this watch is quite special, both mechanically and aesthetically. It should come as no surprise that the Odysseus platform accepts a chronograph compilation with ease, given the existing set of pushers that are integrated into the case, which are normally used to adjust the day and date. They still are, however their main function has been shifted to operating the chronograph. The Odysseus Chronograph retains the outsized day and date apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, as well as a running seconds hand nested at 6 o’clock. There are no other sub dials present. The timing seconds and minute hands are stacked together and centrally mounted, just like the equally fabulous Sinn EZM1. When started, the red anodized aluminum timing seconds hand kicks into action, and the second timing hand records each minute that passes, up to 60 minutes. One unique detail here worth noting is that, when reset, that seconds hand will retrace every lap it’s taken around the dial. So if you’ve timed something for 15 minutes before resetting, the seconds hand will make 15 laps in quick succession back to its starting place. These operations are routed through the integrated pusher...

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Oris & Mar 27, 2023

Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition

Oris is expanding on their popular ProPilot X range of watches this year (a watch we reviewed here), but probably not in the way you were expecting. Meet the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, a green dial ProPilot X with a positive message and an easter egg up its sleeve. This watch represents Oris’ first time collaborating with Disney’s The Muppets franchise to create a truly unique experience around their popular pilot watch, and it gives us a deeper insight into Oris the brand than ever before. The theme of this watch is taking a minute for yourself, not taking life too seriously, and a reminder to have some fun.  The most striking detail of this ProPilot X is, obviously, the bright green dial. It’s not just any green, this is a key lime pie, cartoon level of green, and with a name like this you had better bring it. And bring it Oris most certainly has with this dial. I’d go so far as to say they could have ditched the white hour markers altogether and fully leaned into the concept, but they are there, so there is a level of practicality to the watch. There’s even a date window, but that part isn’t as straightforward. The big reveal of this watch happens on the first of every month, where the date window will reveal not a number, but an icon of the watch’s namesake, Kermit the Frog, of The Muppets fame. This is the once a month reminder to take a step back, lighten up a bit, and reflect on the positives in your life. That’s the idea, at least, and it might jus...

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Rolex Redesigns Mar 27, 2023

Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary

Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference.  At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...

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Tudor Launches Mar 27, 2023

The Black Bay’s Back, Alright! Tudor Launches the New Black Bay 54 and more

We never know what to expect from Tudor at Watches & Wonders, and, well, they didn’t let us down in the surprise department this year, including with a new Black Bay model featuring a – get this – 37mm case. If you had called that one, you might be a psychic. But that was hardly it, we saw a new dial of the GMT, and the return of the Black Bay Burgundy, but with a METAS flavored surprise. The Black Bay’s Back – alright, let’s get into it. I recall being kind of blown away at Basel 2018 when Tudor launched the Black Bay 58. A 39mm Tudor dive watch! I couldn’t really believe it, as common as it might seem today. Well, today Tudor bested themselves once again with the Black Bay 54, a 37mm spiritual recreation of Tudor’s first dive watch, the 7922 from 1954. What you’ll find in the BB54 is a mashup of new (well, vintage-inspired new) and old, in, essentially, a scaled-down BB58. The case is said to have the proportions of the 7922 at 37mm x 11.24mm with 20mm lugs. Additionally, the bezel insert copies the layout of the 7922’s. The insert is black, and features numerals at intervals of 10 in a thin typeface, alternating with blocky rectangles that feel just a hair larger than they should be, but in keeping with the proportions of the original. It’s the kind of quirk that adds personality and quickly sets it apart from its slightly more contemporary siblings. I’m sure plenty of people will be excited to see that markings maintain the tone of the metal bel...

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Rolex Milgauss Mar 27, 2023

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40

The Ingenieur pivots back to its Gerald Genta design era this year with the introduction of a new collection that references the Ingenieur SL, reference 1832 from 1976. This is a move we (and likely, many of you) have anticipated since asking IWC CEO Chris Grainger about it back in 2021 on the Worn & Wound podcast (listen to that episode right here). The new Ingenieur collection welcomes three steel references that feature unique textured dials in silver, black, and aqua, and a full titanium reference with a gray dial. Each feature the new integrated bracelet design made famous by Genta in the ‘70s that we last saw in 2013 with the Ingenieur reference 3239. The new Inge takes a slightly softer approach and places an emphasis on ergonomics, and during our time with the watch in London last month, found it to be exactly that. This is the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 and yes, it still has a soft-iron inner case.  The Ingenieur has a rather interesting history that reaches back to 1955 with the reference 666, where it embraced a classic round shape and simple dial befitting of the era. It was launched around the same time as the Rolex Milgauss, and filled a similar role, making use of a soft-iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic influence (up to 80,000 Amperes per meter). The name has roots in Old French and Medieval Latin, according to IWC, evolving from “ingeniator” or “one who makes or uses an engine”. The word Inegnieur evokes a similar vibe, and b...

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Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded Mar 26, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded

This episode of A Week In Watches is the answer to the ultimate question of life, the universe, and everything: 42. It is also the lead in to Watches & Wonders, which begins tomorrow. Our editorial team will be there in full force, and you can follow along with all the action right here on Worn & Wound, and on our YouTube channel, which you can subscribe to right here. In the lead up to the show, we’re seeing plenty of exciting releases hoping to get the jump on things, so this week we’re taking a look at something new (but also old) from Urwerk in the form of a new 102 Reloaded. We’ve also got looks at new watches from Czapek, Longines, Vulcain, and Furlan Marri for a healthy selection of new watches across the spectrum. We’ve got plenty more to say about the new Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph right here, a watch that reclaims the brand’s history as the first to use a flyback mechanism in a wristwatch back in the 1920s. Keep an eye out for hands-on impressions of the rest of these watches coming to the pages of Worn & Wound soon. Let us know your thoughts in the comments below. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb Complex Mar 25, 2023

Taking Inspiration from Nature With The New Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb

Complex DNA. Constantly evolving species. A couple billion year head start. These things ensure that Mother Nature continues to be the dominant designer on this planet, and has been for quite a long time. So when a watch brand decides it’s time to create something new, what better place to draw inspiration from? Complex DNA. Constantly evolving species. A couple billion year head start. These things ensure that Mother Nature continues to be the dominant designer on this planet, and has been for quite a long time. So when a watch brand decides it’s time to create something new, what better place to draw inspiration from? The post Taking Inspiration from Nature With The New Boldr Safari Vogelkop Superb appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Mar 25, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Nothing Ear (2) Might be the Best (and Coolest) Apple Airpod Alternative, What Superluminal Travel Actually Looks Like, & the World’s Most Visited Art Installation in Times Square, But Nobody Knows It’s There

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Nothing Tech Don’t Want To Follow The Wireless Headphone Crowd? Peep The Nothing’s Updated  Ear(2)  Via Gear Patrol For the longest, I have been “anti” Apple Airpods. I always thought people looked silly when they had those little white apparatuses sticking out of their ear canal and even sillier when I would see someone having a phone conversation, but to my eye, it looked like they were talking to themselves. Well, I’m ready to eat some crow, because as I’m writing these very words, I currently have a set of Apple Airpods Pro snuggled in and I do not hear a peep from the outside world. I now understand the appeal. They’re convenient and they sure do beat lugging around my Bose Comfort 45s. Via Gear Patrol But this WSG story isn’t about the Apple Airpod. It’s about another set of wireless headphones that could be a solid alternative in the event you were wireless-headphone-curious and didn’t want to look like everyone else. The Nothing Ear (2) is the latest from the London-based tech company whose main mission is to “remove barriers betwee...

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Omega Speedmaster MKII Racing – Mar 24, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Eric L.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, long time reader Eric L. shares their trio of watches, which include a brand I had to Google to discover. This is a collection motivated not by hype, but by enthusiasm alone so hat’s off to Eric for this selection. Bonos points for one of the coolest G-Shocks in existence.  If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. Header image credit: Analog:Shift Long time listener, first time caller. NATO’s are great…always. Full Stop…no question.  Keep up the good work folks. Omega Speedmaster MKII Racing – $4,000 It’s a Speedmaster, but you didn’t type in “best watch algorithm” in the Google Machine to find out which Speedy you should buy (It’s the Professional Moonwatch…it went to the moon, but Omega rarely talks about it). Plus, everyone knows that the 70’s racing scene was so funky and lit that it deserves more credit that it receives. Funky case, orange highlights, tach ring under the glass…it’s just better than the Moonwatch in all respects, and I’ll fight anyone who says otherwise. Scared of vintage watches? Get the reissue with a co-axial movement that’s COSC certified. Elliott Brown Houlton Professional – $550 Analog watches are a thing of the past you say?  All soldiers, sailors, airmen, and marines need are G-Shocks and Timex Ironman watches, you say?  Well my brothers and sisters in the UK’s Special Boat ...

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Mar 24, 2023

Enthusiast Spotlight: On the Job, Street, and Trail with the G-SHOCK GM2100C Utility Metal and Outerwear Expert Wallie Luu

When we first laid eyes on G-SHOCK’s new additions to the GM-2100 line called the Utility Metal collection, we knew we’d need to call in an expert in utilitarian style. In order to help us tell the story of these three rugged watches-each with a touch of casual sophistication-we reached out to our pal Wallie Luu. Not only is Wallie a G-SHOCK aficionado, he’s a gear enthusiast with one of the most expansive collections of rugged outerwear designed for the toughest of conditions. We caught up with him at work, on the street, and on the trail where he demonstrated for us the versatility of this new collection. He also told us some great stories and imparted his words of wisdom, all while sporting the now iconic octagonal form and metal-clad design of these GM2100 standouts. We’re featuring the new G-SHOCK Utility Metal collection in the story, can you give us your first impressions? Did you find it easy to pair them with your style? All of the G-SHOCKs I’ve owned have always been pretty big, burly watches that can take the abuse I put them through, whether I’m at the shop, exploring the city, or on a trip. I really like how sleek and low profile these G-SHOCK Utilities wear, without sacrificing how robust they are. I feel like these work great as a solid, everyday watch thanks to their metal cases. I’m also really impressed with the quality of the strap. I wasn’t sure what to expect with a fabric strap on a G-SHOCK, but for me it’s an intriguing combo. I...

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Louis Erard s New Limited Edition Mar 24, 2023

Louis Erard’s New Limited Edition Takes Wood Dials to a New Extreme

When you write about new watches everyday, it becomes harder and harder to be surprised. Most brands, for better or worse, design watches in an iterative way – new releases might be very, very nice, but truly fresh ideas are few and far between. But that just makes it even more gratifying when something genuinely different comes across the transom, as it did with this absolutely bonkers Louis Erard with a wood dial.  To start with, let’s concede that wood dials themselves are nothing new. Luxury brands have been making dials out of different types of wood for decades, with the trend reaching a peak in the 1970s and 80s. But this Louis Erard Excellence Marqueterie is unlike any other wood dial I’ve ever seen. It continues the Louis Erard trend of combining rare and traditional handcrafts with their unique, contemporary sensibility. Up to now, my favorite example of this idea was their work in the art of guilloche dial making, which took a craft that is undeniably difficult and special, but sometimes aesthetically a bit old fashioned, and made it feel extremely modern.  That first limited edition guilloche dial serves as design inspiration for this watch, made in the marquetry decorative tradition, which consists of inlaying many small pieces of precisely cut wood. Marquetry is most often used in furniture making – think table tops, the backs of chairs, and so forth. Here, miniature marquetry specialist Bastien Chevalier has produced a dial with an elaborate geomet...

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Vulcain Knows How Mar 24, 2023

Vulcain Knows How to Play The Hits and the Chrongraphe 1970’s is their Latest Vintage Tune

Since Vulcain received a new lease on life with entrepreneur and brand enthusiast Guillaume Laidet at the helm, the storied brand has not missed. By tapping into Vulcain’s deep archives and playing the hits, so to speak, many of us have thoroughly enjoyed getting reacquainted with the brand. Debuting with their most iconic watch, the Cricket, was the logical first step in relaunching Vulcain. It’s a watch that has all the name-cache with it being the first mechanical alarm watch and its historical ties to several United States presidents. Following the Cricket, Laidet and company hit us with an unexpected dive watch with the Skindiver Nautique. Once again, by essentially producing a recreation of a past reference, Vulcain released a diver with all the vintage charm you could ask for (a type of watch that every brand needs in their arsenal), packed into a tidy 38mm case. So how does Vulcain move forward from the aforementioned models? Well, with a presidential watch and a diver already in the quiver, naturally a chronograph is the next move. Continuing with what has been clearly working for the brand thus far, Vulcain recently announced the Chronographe 1970’s, a handsome chronograph and another spot-on revival from their back catalog. There is a certain magnetism and allure to the Chronographe 1970’s which I’ll try to identify as we go on. First, the dial. I applauded the typeface choice on the Skindiver Nautique during a recent On-Wrist Reaction, and I’ll do t...

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Patek Philippe but I have Mar 24, 2023

Hands-On with the Circula ProTrail “Old Radium” Limited Edition

Field watches work particularly well as a blank slate. They are rigorously simple by design, a watch made for pure function and to simply get out of the way of your day to day life. An easily legible dial and a compact case are the only true prerequisites. From there, watch brands have a ton of latitude in how they create a field watch that feels unique to them and will please their customers. There are literally hundreds of traditional field watches to choose from, made by just about every brand you can think of, from Hamilton to Patek Philippe, but I have a soft spot for the oddball interpretations that provide a twist on the norm. The Circula ProTrail isn’t exactly avant-garde or anything, but it’s just a few degrees away from “the standard,” giving it a unique contemporary sensibility among a sea (or a field?) of similar watches that tend to cling to the past.  Circula is a German brand with roots dating back to the 1950s, but was effectively relaunched in 2018 by the founder’s grandson, Cornelius Huber. What started with a series of simple German made quartz watches has become a varied collection of precision machined sports watches (for the most part), often in vibrant colors. They put a focus on manufacturing, which is evident in the ProTrail I sampled, and can be easily seen in other watches in their catalog. They’re one of the few brands, for instance, to offer a dive watch in a true super-compressor case.  I had the opportunity to sample the ProTrai...

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Longines Here’s Mar 23, 2023

eBay Finds: Gold Cases, Textured Dials, and Calculators

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Gold Longines Here’s a little gem that has loads of style and bling despite its small size. The case is solid 14k yellow gold, but is only 31mm wide, so not really for those with big wrists. What it lacks in size it makes up with design and style. The bezel is two tiered, with the bottom tier having a crosshatched texture that matches the gold dial, and the upper tier has radial grooves at each hour that also serve as the hour markers. The lugs are thin and smooth for a nice contrast. The gold dial has crosshatched texture and looks to be in great shape the printed Longines logo and applied flying hourglass badge, with thin stick hands. Quite simple and elegant, while blingy at the same time. The crown is signed which is always nice to have. No movement pics but seller states it runs and keeps time. Really great looking gold dress watch for those that like a smaller watch. View auction here. Hamilton LED Calendar Watch More gold, but this time gold plated and definitely a more ‘modern’ design than the Longines above! This vintage Hamilton LED watch has a classic future 1970’s look which is what I love about these vintage LED watches. Condition is fantastic, and the wat...

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Bremont Broadsword Gets Armed Forces Mar 23, 2023

Bremont Broadsword Gets Armed Forces LE Treatment

Henley, Oxfordshire. Pimm’s and Regattas. The splendid River and Rowing Museum.  Particularly vindictive traffic wardens. And ‘The Wing’, Bremont’s HQ. There are plenty of reasons to try to wangle an invitation to look around. Nick’s dog Pedro, for a start – he’s lovely.  The coffee’s good. The building itself is remarkable. Where else do you find a regularly changing selection of classic cars in a reception area? Last time I was there it was a restored Land Rover half-ton Lightweight. And, if you’re into your military watches, there’s an entire wall of them with an example of every unit, squadron or crew model the firm has made. Some you’ll have heard of, others are, quite deliberately, not exactly household names. It’s not surprising. Bremont tend to build their watches (‘build’ seems like a better word than ‘make’ in this context) to take a knock or two. I’ve had one of their MBIIs since 2011 and, despite almost G-Shock levels of abuse, it’s never missed a beat. So even though you’re more likely to see a G or an F-91W on exercise (losing a $15 Casio in the mud is easier to stomach than a nearly $4k Bremont), there’s little doubt they’d hack the pace.  Now there’s a new watch for the Armed Forces Collection – the Broadsword Recon. Bremont’s Broadsword range has been around since 2019, the year the firm signed the Armed Forces Covenant to support those who serve or have served. Practically, in the case of the Broadsword, ...

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Mar 23, 2023

Depancel Sticks to a Tried-and-True Formula with the Legend 60s Chronograph

It has been awhile since we’ve checked in on Depancel, an up and coming watch brand based out of the sleepy alpine town, Annecy, France. It was their Serie-A Allure that last caught our attention last year – a dual-register automatic chronograph heavy on the automotive design cues, which for the spry brand, was their first-ever production chronograph. Since then, it seems they’ve come a long way in a relatively short time. Depancel has expanded their collection, defined their design language (primarily auto-inspired), and now they even have a showroom (in Annecy) for those keen on seeing their collection in the metal. Despite the evolution, that doesn’t mean the brand has lost touch with the watch enthusiast community or their passion for all things automotive. Their new Legend 60s chronograph encompasses everything that has made the brand successful thus far.   The brand has heard a growing number of requests from Depancel collectors and enthusiasts alike to return to their racing chronograph roots. Even though they’ve done away with their online questionnaire that allows for the community to directly make suggestions as to what they’d love to see from the brand, the Legend 60s chronograph proves that they firmly still have their ear to the ground. And what better way to return to their “racing chronograph roots” than to develop a watch inspired by the Formula One racing scene in the 1960s. The Legend 60s marks another first for the Depancel, and that com...

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Furlan Marri Adds Mar 23, 2023

Furlan Marri Adds a Trio of Sector Dial Three-Handers to their Permanent Collection

You might recall that when Blake Buettner brought us news of Furlan Marri’s very first fully mechanical watch (after the success of their popular meca-quartz chronograph that we still can’t believe ever sold for under $500 during the crowdfunding campaign) he mentioned that the limited production black dialed three hander he had in for review would be followed up by a trio of models in the brand’s permanent collection. That was in June of 2022, and at long last, those watches are here. These three new references use the same platform as the previously issued “Black Sector” 2116-A, but in an array of colors that give the watch a new impact.  The new dials, Salmon Sector, Grey Sector, and White Sector, have been given reference numbers 2154-A, 2161-A, and 2145-A, respectively. While the Grey Sector has what Furlan Marri refers to as a double printed dial, the white and salmon versions both have applied baton hour markers, and all references have a fine texture applied to the dial. The Breguet style numerals at the cardinal positions have become a hallmark of sorts for Furlan Marri, and those remain on all three variants. Dial text is minimal (just the Furlan Marri wordmark and the reference number discreetly out of the way between 4 and 5), the sector layout identical to the black version from last year. Fans of aggressive symmetry will be quite pleased, I think.  An area where Furlan Marri has excelled since the launch of that first chronograph back in 2021 is i...

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Doxa s New Sub 200 Mar 23, 2023

Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not)

When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...

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Urwerk Returns Mar 22, 2023

Urwerk Returns To Their Roots With New 102 Reloaded

Late last year, Urwerk teamed up with artist Cooper Jacoby to create a special one-off version of their original 102 watch from 1997. We brought you live coverage of that watch prior to its auctioning, and wondered if we might see this form return in a fully fledged redesign of the 102, given the full redesign of the case. Today, we receive an answer to that question in the form of this UR102 Reloaded set of watches. The latest 102 gets the same case we saw featured in the one-off that fetched over $400,000 at auction, but misses out on that trick color-changing element that made that one so special. A fair trade off in my book, as I’m just happy to see this case make it into a production reference. The original 102 is an important part of Urwerk history, serving as their first platform and an ultimate proof of concept that’s since evolved in a variety of ways. There are no hands at work here, heck there’s barely even a dial, just a long wandering hour aperture tracing the time across a display arc at the top of the case. It’s simple, elegant, and looks just as fresh today as it did 25 years ago (though the inspiration for this design is much, much older). Indeed, the 102 represents many firsts for the brand, and these are represented within the rotating element of the dial itself, written above the broader celestial themed components. It provides a personal touch to the theme of the watch, without compromising the core themes at work. The disc elements themselves ...

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