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Our NYC Showroom Is Now Open on Saturdays
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“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Gearing up for Blade Show Atlanta Blade Show Atlanta, the world’s largest knife show and a cornerstone event for the EDC community, kicks off next weekend (June 6-8th). With over 900 exhibitors, including both renowned brands and custom makers, the show offers an unrivaled opportunity to explore the latest in EDC knives, tools, and carry accessories. Show attendees can discover cutting-edge designs and educational seminars, making it a hub for innovation and craftsmanship in the industry. In addition, the event also hosts the prestigious Blade Magazine Knife of the Year Awards, celebrating design, quality, and functionality of blades tools. Beyond its role as a direct to consumer marketplace, Blade Show Atlanta fosters a vibrant community where enthusiasts, collectors, and professionals can connect, share knowledge, and celebrate their passion for quality gear. You can check out a full list of vendors, show details, and purchase tickets, here. The Garnet Goblin There’s a real “What will they think of next?” quality to reading about the latest releases from Arcanaut. The independent brand, founded in Denmark in 2015, with the first watches appearing (and sel...
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Seiko, through their Seiko 5 Sports line, recently unveiled a watch that, five or six years ago, probably would have broken the watch internet. The SKX Series is a collection within the Seiko 5 Sports lineup that directly references the SKX line of Seiko divers, which are perhaps the most iconic of all enthusiast focused watches. The SKX Series under the Seiko 5 Sports banner is not new, but this new quartet of divers feels like the most direct callback to the classic SKX007 and SKX009 yet. When the SKX watches were discontinued, it was the talk of the watch internet. And the (re)introduction of the Seiko 5 Sports line, as a pseudo-replacement, also drove a lot of conversation, much of it dismissive, or yearning for the “old days” of Seiko when the truly affordable SKX watches (real dive watches, we were always reminded) could be purchased easily by any budding collector. These new watches which connect directly to that SKX lineage say a lot about the state of the brand, and their reception to this point, I think, says even more about the community. Before we get too deep into the meta-commentary of what these watches mean in enthusiast circles, let’s quickly get some basic objective stats out of the way. The new references (the SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87 and SRPL89, which feature blue, black, yellow and orange dials, respectively) all measure identically to the Seiko 5 Sports watches which debuted back in 2019. That means cases coming in at 42.5mm in diameter, 13.9m...
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Watch industry trade shows can be intoxicating if not disorienting as you meander down rows of branded tables, making snap judgments as to where you choose to spend your precious time. It’s possible to go through an entire day under the assumption that you had seen everything, tried it on for a wrist shot, and compiled your shortlist only to find out from an acquaintance that there was one model you missed, hiding in their camera roll. That is a fear that all of us in watch media live with. So, when I overheard the rumblings of a young watch designer hiding an interesting prototype in his pocket during the first session of public hours during British Watchmakers’ Day, I knew I had only a few hours to pull on that thread and seek it out myself. Finally, towards the closing hours of the show, I ran into Magnus Swann. Magnus Swann Like an introductory drug deal oozing with awkwardness, I slunk up to the tall figure to introduce myself, hoping he would supply the goods. With equal parts excitement and nervousness at sharing an early glimpse into his personal vision, Magnus produced a prototype, along with immediate excuses for its appearance, offering detailed points for his lofty goals. What began as a university project was finally starting to take shape. For the first time, it was being seen by a select few of the most scrutinizing watch enthusiasts. I sat there with Magnus’s creation in hand, and immediately signed up to follow his story. It is still the early days, ...
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Love it or hate it, Bell & Ross is committed to their iconic, oversized, and squared-off designs. But despite what their haters say, they don’t just do squares. Or rather, they layer other shapes over squares sometimes. Confused? Good. Let’s get into it. The brand’s popular BR-03 Diver platform is home to a healthy handful of references, all of which measure in at 42mm in diameter, and feature the brand’s classic “circle within a square” design that varies in color and material between models. Basically, the iconic Bell & Ross square case remains, with a diver’s bezel laying on top, giving each model a stacked, utilitarian aesthetic. The design is effectively functional and deeply polarizing, as is B&R;’s forte. Last year, the French brand began updating BR-03 Diver timepieces by introducing optimized changes to the movement and materials, ceramic bezels and inserts, and revised typeface, hands, and strap designs. The latest BR-03 Diver release, the Lum Outline, is perhaps the most emblematic of the line’s emphasis on functionality and capability without sacrificing stylistic panache. The Lum Outline’s case, bezel, dial, and strap options-one rubber, and the other black synthetic fabric-are all a uniform matte black. Normally, I would say that this is tame or even boring, but the micro-blasted texture of the ceramic gives the watch a more interesting and layered look than a monochrome design usually would. The case is a solid 13.35mm thick, and...
The 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was one for the books. Thousands of attendees poured into the city’s vibrant Marina District for three days of hands-on horology, exclusive releases, and face time with the creators behind the brands we love. The energy was electric, and the programming only elevated what was already an unforgettable experience. Thanks to our sponsors, this year’s event reached new heights, with panels that brought depth, insight, and real-time connection to the forefront. Here are recordings of the full conversations that helped shape the weekend, plus some videos from our friends at Fortis and Bulova. Introducing the New Fortis Fliegers with the WERK 7 Manufacture Calibre The Fortis Flieger collection connects over 40 years of aviation heritage with the modern era. Redefined in collaboration with the Swiss Air Force, it stands as the most readable tool watch Fortis has ever crafted. This video goes into its new WERK 7 manufacture calibre with 70 hours of power reserve, as explained by Andreas Bentele, Marketing Manager at Fortis. Panel 1 – Making Watches for the Enthusiast vs. the Curious Worn & Wound’s Managing Editor Zach Kazan kicked off the programming with a lively conversation featuring Abingdon Mullin, CEO at Abingdon, Jonathan Ferrer, Designer & Founder at Brew, and Brandon Little, Founder & Designer at Artefkt. The panel explored how brands can speak to both hardcore collectors and casual newcomers-without diluting their voic...
A few weeks ago, I set out on a road trip along one of my favorite stretches of the world: the California coast. It was more than just a drive down Highway 1 - it was a journey to see the coastline in a new way, through the lenses of two amazing Fujifilm medium format cameras and a special Citizen Promaster that quietly echoed the whole vibe. Right after the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, I (and my BFF) hit the road and headed south down Highway 1, taking in some of the dreamiest towns California has to offer. Monterey, Piedras Blancas, Big Sur, Morro Strand, SLO, Pismo Beach, Solvang, Santa Barbara… It’s wild how the vibe shifts even though you’re basically hugging the same coast the whole time. Like, how is this all the same state? This feels like sorcery somehow. But before we go full travel diary, let me talk about the gear. Because yes, this trip had a theme: film & time. The post California Coast Through Film & Time: A Road Trip with Kat Shoulders, Fujifilm, and Citizen’s Unite with Blue Collection appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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One of the more interesting trends to crop up in recent years is the rise in ultra specific niche watches. If you’re part of seemingly almost any community or culture, there’s probably a watch just for you. Really into early 80s rally cars? Autodromo has you covered. Do you love Jurassic Park and hand-lacquered dials? Awake has a watch you might want to check out. And if you happen to be of Greek heritage, or just love the country and its culture, Jacob Hatzidimitriou’s watches made under the Ianos banner will be of interest for sure. Ianos is interesting because in addition to being a design forward independent brand making dive watches (table stakes these days), they are pulling on a very specific aspect of diving history as it relates to Greek culture. Diving, like pizza, cars, and architecture, has distinct characteristics dependent on geography and purpose. Sponge diving has been a pursuit in Greece for literally thousands of years, and the techniques, history, and visual language of this very specific type diving has informed every Ianos watch in some way to this point in the brand’s history (you can read our coverage of previous Ianos releases here and here). “Watches always intrigued me, not just as accessories but as expressions of personality,” Jacob told me in an interview. “Over time, I started to see them for what they really are: miniature, intricate machines that, more than anything, carry significant emotional weight. In an age of fast fashi...
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Longines continues to expand their Zulu Time collection with the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. Never one to shy away from an anniversary, the latest version of the Longines travel watch celebrates the 100th anniversary of the brand’s first watch to display dual time zones. These early dual time zone watches featured colorful representations of maritime flags referencing the letter “Z”, a nod to the time at the zero meridian in Greenwich. The “Z” designation ultimately led to pilots referencing “Zulu time” when referring to time at the zero meridian, an important concept when traveling across time zones. The modern renditions of the Zulu Time watches are completely distinct from their historical counterparts in terms of their design and aesthetics, but for Longines their intent seems to be to recreate the adventurous spirit of those watches in a modern package. All of the Zulu Time watches to this point have straddled the line between a clear vintage inspiration and contemporary design tropes, resulting in watches that have a classic everyday appeal. Last year, I reviewed the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium, which simply by virtue of the material used felt like the most contemporary iteration of the Zulu Time yet. I really enjoyed my time with that watch and felt that Longines really nailed the proportions, with a case just under 40mm that was also not too long from lug to lug. The new 1925 version of the Zulu Time is perhaps best thought of as the inverse o...
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Ever since its introduction, the Formex Field Automatic has been a favorite of enthusiasts in search of a modern twist on the tried and true field watch. At the same time, it also felt a little like an outlier in the Formex collection. For a brand that has built a reputation on clever manufacturing innovations, the Field was remarkably simple and, for Formex, pretty subdued. That’s the nature, though, of a field watch, and at the end of the day, Formex’s version of it has always been a well made, if rudimentary, take on the genre. For the Field Automatic Gen 2, Formex has mostly stuck with what worked with the first Field, but upped the complexity of the dial and, as you’d expect, added some new colors to the collection. Available in three colors (Ice Blue, Coho Salmon, and Basalt Grey), the new dial design adds considerable depth and texture to the experience of the Formex Field. Each dial is constructed from two parts, a center section with a sunburst finish and a sloped minute track that gives the dial what the brand refers to as a “saucer-like” profile. Adding to the perception of depth on the new dials is an hour track positioned between the minute track and central section with a contrasting smooth texture and recessed, stenciled, lume filled numerals. Formex’s stated goal here is to create a three dimensional effect, something that we don’t normally associate with the typically “flat” dials of most field watches. The case is unchanged from the ...
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“The Greatest Collectors of All Time” is a series of features that will look at what drives a collector to collect and how they go about seeking out items they want for their collections. Here we look back through time to highlight the greatest horological collectors and showcase their particular area and passion for collecting. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) was one of the most notable horological collectors of all time. He had the wealth, passion and enthusiasm that enabled him to amass an immense and varied collection. This was at a formative time when many unrecognized horological gems were coming to the market due to a developing appreciation of technical horology and world circumstances. His collection, known as the Ilbert Collection, included an impressive array of timepieces from the 16th century to his time, featuring some of the rarest and most exquisite watches, clocks, and horological instruments. Professionally, Ilbert was an engineer, and his technical knowledge informed his horological expertise. His engineering insights helped him appreciate the intricate workings of the timepieces he collected and restored. He was an extremely fine craftsman taking infinite patience in the matter of restoration and repair. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) Born in Reading, Berkshire during the Victorian era, on the 22nd April 1888, his family background provided him with the stability and resources to pursue an excellent education. From a young age, Ilbert ...
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It’s Memorial Day Weekend, the unofficial start of summer. You know what that means: it’s time to talk summer watches. We’re not really sure when the “Summer Watch” concept began in earnest, but every year, the community’s thoughts collectively turn to seasonally appropriate watches for the hot and sticky months. Are summer watches a watch media invention? It’s possible. But there’s no denying that some watches just work better in the warmer, sunnier weather. We’d never say you can’t wear a precious metal watch dress watch on a glossy leather strap in the middle of July, but somehow we all seem to know that a lightweight diver on a rubber strap just makes more sense. Here then, are the watches we anticipate getting the most time on our wrists this summer. Feel free to chime in in the comments below to let us know what you expect to be wearing most as the summer heat sets in. Devin Pennypacker A go-to summer watch could really only mean one thing to me, it’s dive watch season. Truthfully, it’s always dive watch season for me, but at least during this time of year, I have some justification. More likely than not, if you run into me this summer baking like a lizard on the beach, jumping through the cold waves like a child, or taking in some fresh air, prolonging my time in the park, I’ll most likely be wearing my Omega Planet Ocean 2200.50. I am sure I just shocked everyone with that out-of-character pick. Sure, I could have selected any dive watch...
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Micromilspec has been around for a while, and has carved out a niche for themselves by producing unapologetically tactical watches, often made in collaboration with military units all over the world. Their vibe tends to be somewhat serious, which is what you’d expect given the type of watches they make, and their focus on performance and durability. I mean, it’s all there in the name, right? “Micromilspec” conjures a certain idea of a watch in your brain, and it’s probably not, well, whatever it is that Black Badger has come up with for this limited edition. Black Badger (otherwise known as James Thompson, the Chief of Materials at Arcanaut and the designer behind many lume forward watches over the years), has partnered with Micromilspec for a new take on their popular chronograph, the Milgraph. The so-called “Sabotage” edition of the Milgraph features healthy amounts of X1-grade Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands, for that signature Black Badger glow, but this is much more than a heavily lumed Milgraph. It’s a high concept art piece that imagines an entire alternate anime universe referenced in the watch as well as the little extras that come with it (a dog tag that has been laser engraved and blowtorch oxidized, which I think just means the guys lit it on fire). It’s way more playful and fun than what we’d typically expect from Micromilspec, but is somehow exactly what we’d expect from Black Badger. The story Micromilspec and Black Badger h...
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“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. A New Yeti Backpack: The Cayo As summer rapidly approaches, Yeti has released a new family of backpacks they’ve named the “Cayo”. Made from a “Dry-Hide” shell with RF welded seams and PU coated zippers, the Cayo is designed to be highly water resistant, but not fully waterproof like their Panga line of bags. This new pack also features two quick access pockets, one horizontally at the top and an additional vertical pocket on the side that can be used to store a water bottle, along with a “Comfortcomb” mesh backpanel aimed to help breathability. This new line of bags is currently available in two sizes, 15 and 25 liters, with an additional 35 liter size coming later this summer. For those interested, more images along with full specs, are available on Yeti’s product page, here. ThruDark Completes Mission:Everest With traditional Everest expeditions lasting upwards of ten weeks, a team of four British military veterans set out to push the limits of what is possible in high-altitude mountaineering: Depart from London, Scale Mount Everest, and safely return home in under seven days. After months of training, crafting custom “summit suits” , and th...
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eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille This may not be one of the famous Omega Seamasters with fat lugs, or the iconic divers, but this Seamaster DeVille is a great dress watch. The 35.5 yellow gold fill case is in good shape, with sharp edges and classy thin lugs. The caseback has a beautiful hand engraved personalization for 25 years with GTE Sylvania, dated 1974. The crown is original and signed with the Omega logo. The acrylic crystal is scratched and could use a good polish, but the silver dial underneath looks super clean. Classic simple Omega dial with applied gold baton markers and gold stick hands. Mo movement picture but the seller states it runs and keeps time. View auction here Vintage Seiko 5 Here’s a nice, simple vintage Seiko 5, with original bracelet and a Seiko box. I’m not 100% sure this box is original, but it certainly looks to be from the correct period. The steel case is in beautiful shape, unpolished and with the original brushed finish. The silver dial is clean as a whistle, with cool applied steel baton markers that have large lume plots. The steel hands have matching lume filled plots as well. The dial has the ubiquitous day/date window at three o’clock, and...
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Editor’s Note: Earlier this week, Rolex held an event in New York City to showcase their latest 2025 releases. We saw most of these watches in Geneva at Watches & Wonders a few months ago, but this was the first time going hands-on with the latest from Rolex for Devin Pennypacker and Garrett Jones. These are their reactions and impressions, as well as a whole bunch of photos (with natural light!) from Garrett. Devin Pennypacker: There is a saying that gets murmured around the start of Watches and Wonders: The show goes as Rolex goes. This year, however, I was left with a feeling that Rolex was chasing trends rather than setting them for the first time in a long while. New announcements saw them leaning into pastel colors, stone dials, and even integrated bracelets to highlight their 2025 collection. To put it mildly, I was disappointed that there wasn’t immediately a model that stuck out to me as a winner of the bunch. That being said, I also didn’t have the opportunity to go hands-on with the new collection, so every thought was mere speculation. During a recent event in New York, I had the chance to spend some time with many of the new releases, form genuine opinions, and model the watches for our photography by Garrett Jones. Afterwards, Garret and I sat down to discuss a few releases we had time with, delivering our thoughts and feelings towards some of the collection, which we will have staggered below. As always, please leave your takes on these new releases ...
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Originally released in 1957 as part of Omega’s “Professional Line” trilogy, the Railmaster joined the Seamaster and Speedmaster as the brand’s offerings to professionals in railway, automotive racing, and ocean diving, respectively. Where it lacked in naming convention creativity, the original Railmaster excelled in innovation, with anit-magnetic properties that were, at the time, jaw-droppingly effective, protecting the watch from magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss, where other pieces tended to cap out at 60 gauss. It’s no surprise, then, that the Professional Line trio has remained among Omega’s most popular and iconic models, and 2025 sees the launch of two new stainless steel Railmaster models. Both new Railmasters measure in at 38mm in diameter and wear all-new gradient dials. The first variant bears no text details save for the Omega logo below the 12 numeral and the Railmaster name in script above the 6, with a gray dial that fades into a black gradient. The second option shakes it up with a beige-into-black dial that squishes the Omega logo and Railmaster logo together under the 12, and places a small seconds subdial above the 6. Both models feature Super-Luminova on the numerals, indexes, and hands, and come on a leather strap-black for the gray-to-black model and Novonappa brown for the beige-to-black version-or a stainless steel bracelet. Inside, Omega’ Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 movement proves that it’s leaps and boun...
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Backbone Media has been a long-standing force in the outdoor industry as a media and PR agency representing some of our most beloved gear brands. Each spring they bring a curated selection of their clients to NYC for their 2025 Spring Showcase. The Worn & Wound team was on the scene and here are 3 standout products that we’re especially excited about. Matador Pops and Locks with the BetaLock Locking Carabiner Carabiners and locks are both crucial pieces in our travel kit, but carrying a lock is a drag. Locks are cumbersome, slow to use, uninspired, and often get left behind as a result. The BetaLock was designed to address exactly that. It works perfectly as a rugged EDC carabiner and transitions seamlessly into a theft-deterring lock at the turn of a key. It’s lightweight and multi-use so there’s no reason to leave it behind. The most effective lock is the one you have on-hand when you need it. We were also pretty pumped on Matador’s GlobeRider35, which is designed and built for world travel, loaded with organization and an outdoor inspired carry harness for all-day comfort. This pack paired perfectly with the BetaLock. YETI Gets Tough as Iron with Cast Iron Skillets At the show, we also learned that YETI-known for its coolers, insulated water bottles, and more recently, its backpacks and travel bags-has come out with their own line of cast iron skillets as well. Ranging in size from 8 to 14 inches in diameter, these pans come polished and preseasoned, creatin...
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Let’s take a quick inventory of some of the small watch brands making enamel dials of some kind. This is a segment that’s become ultra competitive in the wake of anOrdain, the Glasgow based indie that popularized this style of artisanal watchmaking in a more accessible way, coming on the scene several years ago. There’s 5280 Watch Company, based in Colorado and creating a truly unique enamel dial that is also decorated with an old fashioned engine turning technique. Then there’s Statera, based in Brazil, a brand that makes grand feu enamel dials that are meant to evoke midcentury classics from Patek Philippe and others. There are a bunch of brands who don’t specialize in enamel, but have dabbled in it, one way or another. We can include De Rijke & Co. here, who produced a limited run of champlevé enamel dialed watches with designs by Guy Allen last year. There are others: Louis Erard and Seiko have had notable enamel releases in the last few years, and we can even include James Lamb in the conversation, although the handmade silver cases he produces push his watches just a bit outside that tempting sub $5,000 price point. This much enamel would have been unthinkable in a pre anOrdain world, and I think it’s important to recognize that at the outset of any discussion of a new enamel dialed watch, because any new watch in this category will be seen, perhaps unfairly, as a challenger to anOrdain’s crown. Their waitlist now reportedly stretches to 2029, so i...
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Every year, the watch industry plays the popular game “my favorite release from Watches and Wonders”. We try to pick unique watches, offer a unique perspective on them, and potentially shine a light on a model that we think deserves the title. However, I genuinely believe that if you told every one of those journalists that they had to purchase a watch announced at the show, roughly half would choose a different piece. They would most likely select something that suits their style better, fits into their collection, or maybe doesn’t shine as the most impressive piece but is still the one they want to take home. I am guilty of this. For two years in a row now, my “forced to purchase” choice has been a Tudor watch. Last year, the Black Bay ‘Monochrome’ made my purchasing shortlist further cemented after I had the chance to go hands-on with it for an extended period. The new black on black color scheme looked great, the METAS-certified caliber is impressive, and that five-link bracelet just wears incredibly well. But while last year’s Black Bay “Monochrome” was simply a new color extension, the Pelagos Ultra redefines the collection while setting a few benchmarks along the way. Touted as Tudor’s most technologically advanced watch yet, it somehow stuffs the stat sheet while remaining wearable. The lightweight case crafted from grade 2 titanium with a grade 5 caseback wears better than the 43mm diameter might lead on. At 14.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug of ...
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One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (and one of the best watches Zenith has made in years, in my opinion) was the G.F.J., a study in blue and a celebration of the brand’s 160th anniversary. The G.F.J. is something of a no-expenses-spared dream watch, with a platinum case and optional bracelet that basically doubles the price (because why not?) as well as a finely finished movement and loads of history built into the watch’s story, with a focus on the brand’s historic pursuits in chronometry. When I had that watch on my wrist I wondered how the G.F.J. line might expand, and if this watch was an opening salvo in a more ambitious series of releases to come. I don’t know that we have any answers to those questions, necessarily, with the release of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli today, but there’s certainly some connective tissue between Zenith’s newest novelty and the G.F.J. we saw a few months ago. Looking at the latest Zenith Triple Calendar, it’s impossible not to notice a certain aesthetic similarity to the G.F.J. Both make prominent use of lapis lazuli, one of the most common precious stones used in watchmaking. On the G.F.J., lapis is what makes up the majority of the dial space, with the stone in the main dial nicely complementing the blue mother of pearl in the subsidiary seconds. On this new Triple Calendar, the lapis is truly the star of the show, dominating the dial and only yielding for the three subregisters i...
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The Windup Watch Fair is all about what makes this hobby great: passionate communities, hands-on experiences, and a chance to discover something new. This year’s San Francisco edition checked every box, delivering an unforgettable weekend of horological energy, Bay Area vibes, and the best of watches and everyday carry. Thanks to our lead sponsors-anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Frederique Constant, and Oris,and, of course, you, our readers and extended Worn & Wound family, Windup SF 2025 was one for the books. Back at the Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason on Pier 2, the venue once again proved itself a perfect stage. With a wide-open two-level floorplan and sweeping views of the bay, over 90 watch and EDC brands set up shop, creating a space where enthusiasts could get up close with everything from microbrand gems to industry heavyweights. And it was packed with action. The Panel & Podcast Room buzzed with live talks and behind-the-scenes conversations. We unveiled exclusive drops, including the Bulova Snorkel Edition-made just for the show-alongside special events like Bulova’s 150th anniversary documentary screening at the Alamo Drafthouse in the Mission. Christopher Ward brought the premiere of Freewheelin’, their new documentary on the innovative C12 Loco, with North American Brand Director Mike Pearson and Senior Designer Will Brackfield on hand to dive into the story behind the design. The ever-growing EDC Expo presented by NOMATIC also turned heads. Th...
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Would you expect anything less from MB&F; on their 20th anniversary than the launch of an entirely new collection? The independent brand founded by Max Büsser has spent the last two decades confounding expectations, delighting enthusiasts and collectors along the way with some of the brazen and creative watch designs of the modern era. The brand’s influence and importance on the modern independent watch scene really can’t be overstated. To date, MB&F; releases have existed on two distinct tracks: the LM or “Legacy Machine” collection, which represents Max Büsser’s idea of a classical watchmaking style (think circular cases, classical complications, and a generally traditional if sometimes highly complex readout of the time), and the HM, or “Horological Machine” collection, which can be described as pure, maximalist creativity. This is where you see watches shaped like dogs, and spaceships, with time read in unusual and unexpected ways. While you’d think that working within two collections in this manner (particularly where one is seemingly unbound by traditional watchmaking rules) Max and his team would have the freedom to create just about anything they set their mind to. In reality, of course, there are always projects that don’t reach the finish line for one reason or another. The SP One (SP is short for “Special Projects”) represents an entirely new product category for MB&F; with the promise of reviving these projects and creating entirely new one...
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Before receiving the G5 Meridian, I had what I thought was a clear idea of Vaer in my head: mil-spec watches at an affordable price. Founded in Venice, California in 2016, the brand has built themselves a reputation of earnest capability and practical styling that appeals to budding enthusiasts looking for an everyday watch that leans towards rugged simplicity rather than fast-fashion. Vaer watches have been built in the States since 2018, with their first mechanical piece coming to market in 2019. Whether through my own lack of in-depth research or via social media algorithms showing me exclusively the brand’s field watches for some reason, I had apparently missed the relatively diverse other half of their catalog, spearheaded by the release of their first dive watch in 2020, first solar diver in 2021, and first chronograph in 2022. Since then, they’ve expanded each category into multiple references that cover a wide array of functions and styles, shirking my own narrow-minded ideas and, apparently, their own social media advertising algorithms. Thus, with a heap of welcome and humble surprise, I received the new G5 Meridian GMT and began my Vaer re-education. Unboxing My G5 arrived in a slim navy box with a clean, minimalistic design-appropriate for its price range, but not “cheap”-feeling in any way. I prefer minimal packaging (what the hell am I going to do with all these empty boxes anyways), and Vaer has done a nice job presenting the G5 as a serious, ent...
Worn & Wound
Over the last year or two, I’ve been traveling more and more for work. More often than not, I’ve found the experience impersonal at best. Thanks to the new invention of “contactless check-in”, I am usually greeted by a row of iPads, making it feel more like I’ve made a 4-day reservation at a Genius Bar versus a holiday in Malibu. You see, like glass-blowing or macrame, hospitality is a dying art. The ability to make one feel welcomed isn’t as simple as having a few brochures at the front desk; but, instead, it’s an immeasurable talent that turns a two-night stay into an experience. Luckily, there are a few good men fighting the good fight. An entire network of them, actually, called Les Clefs d’Or. Since 1952, this international organization has dedicated itself to the art of hospitality through its 4,000 members, making it one of the largest organizations of its kind. While many hotels now have a new-hire sit at a podium labeled CONCIERGE to hand out brochures of local attractions, the members of Les Clefs d’Or understands that a concierge is an untapped resource, giving you tips on where to eat, what to do, and he may pull a few strings to get you that hard-to-come-by table at the local Michelin-starred joint down the block. Now, of course for me, the imagination starts running when I think of a private organization of hotel professionals who are maintaining the old guard of hospitality. One might even be reminded of The Society of the Crossed Keys ...
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