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Citizen Releases New References Sep 12, 2024

Citizen Releases New References in their Premium Attesa Collection

“Attesa” is an Italian word that means “expectation” or “anticipation.” Since 1987, it has been the home of Citizen’s next-generation watches, where its expertise in processing titanium and employing innovative technologies exceeds expectations and anticipates the future. Think of it as their E-Class; anecdotally, Mercedes’ E-Class is the first to receive all the latest bells and whistles, which are later incorporated into the other model lines. Speaking of bells and whistles, Attesa is launching two new world-time chronographs for 2024, both packed with a wide range of features and functions. The first is the CC4059-64L, a 44.6mm Super Titanium timepiece featuring an ultra-hard black Duratect DLC coated case. Its dial features blue-violet vertical striping, while the subdials and rehaut are black. Its bezel matches the color of the dial, and the city names are applied using a special vapor deposition process to create a reflective silver color. The second is the CC4074-61W, which utilizes the same case, bracelet, and black Duratect DLC coating. However, this model features a sunburst charcoal dial with black subdials and rehaut and a black sapphire bezel with city names in pink gold. Pink gold also appears on the bezel edges, hands, applied markers, the edges of the subdials, and the date window. Powering these high-tech pieces is the state-of-the-art Citizen caliber F950. This movement can receive a satellite-correcting signal in just 3 seconds, which is ...

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Sep 11, 2024

Hands-On: the Dietrich ED-1

One of the great things about the world of watches today is there’s always something out there waiting to surprise. Even as someone who spends a lot of time paying attention to this stuff, there are still brands that slip through the cracks and watches that sneak by when my head is turned. I’ll admit, Dietrich was one of those brands I had missed. Now, having spent some time with two variants of their latest release, the ED-1, I have to say I’m paying attention. Okay, I hadn’t entirely missed them, but I knew Dietrich best from their relatively conventional SD-2 Skin diver. That watch certainly stood out from the familiar onslaught of dive watches, but the structured conventions of dive watches meant the SD-2 didn’t offer the full Dietrich experience. The rounded leaf hands, sandwich dial, and ever-so-slightly hexagonal dial were enough to evoke the Dietrich ‘look,’ but at the end of the day a dive watch is a dive watch, and there’s only so much you can do without ending up with something else. The Dietrich ED-1 marks a return to the core of Dietrich watchmaking, this time with the intention of creating the “ultimate everyday watch.” As an industry, we tend to break watches into categories: dive watches, field watches, pilot’s watches, dress watches, tool watches, dressy tool watches - the list goes on. It’s a bit of a trick, one that makes it easier for both brands and journalists to communicate this intention behind a watch and establish expecta...

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Casio n Sep 11, 2024

Hanhart’s Long Awaited Preventor HD12

While it can often feel like the watch industry today is an arms race of sorts to see who can come out with the best, brightest, and flashiest, it’s a nice respite to see a watch that is built with simplicity in mind. That, to me, is embodied in the Hanhart Preventor HD12, the newest reference from the German brand. While the name Preventor may sound like a prescription I took while I was single, it is, in fact, a successor to the already-established Pioneer model from Hanhart. You can see elements such as the stripped-down dial and case shared between the collections. While the Pioneer models may have promoted simplicity within the brand, it’s the Preventor which has shown restraint.  With a decidedly Spartan design, the decoration on this watch is in the hands and the use of the vintage-style Hanhart logo, making this a distraction-free watch that isn’t running the risk of being overdesigned. At its core, this watch is meant to be a daily wearer, able to blend in with whatever outfit or occasion and that means all the bells and whistles are reserved for, say, Hanhart’s Primus collection.  Customers can choose between a black or blue dial, both a cohesive design choice against the 39 mm steel case. And about that steel, I’d be remiss to not mention the HD12 steel used, for which the Preventor was named after. This particular steel is created through introducing carbon into the stainless steel alloy, which in turn increases the hardness of the case’s surface ...

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Sep 11, 2024

The Top 5 Dive Watches for Beginners Under $1,000

Dive watches possess a sort of primordial appeal. Dating back to the 1950s, they were invaluable tools for early divers to monitor their dive time. But what makes a dive watch a dive watch? It varies depending on who you ask, but the International Organization for Standards (ISO) 6425 standard provides a perfect starting point. Per ISO, a dive watch must: a) be water-resistant to at least 100, b) possess a method of tracking dive time, c) must show that time in resolution of no larger than minutes over the span of an hour, plus a litany of other tests to achieve ISO 6425 certification. In today’s Chronicle, we’re doing a deep dive into our picks for the five best dive watches for a new enthusiast. Dive watches possess a sort of primordial appeal. Dating back to the 1950s, they were invaluable tools for early divers to monitor their dive time. But what makes a dive watch a dive watch? It varies depending on who you ask, but the International Organization for Standards (ISO) 6425 standard provides a perfect starting point. Per ISO, a dive watch must: a) be water-resistant to at least 100, b) possess a method of tracking dive time, c) must show that time in resolution of no larger than minutes over the span of an hour, plus a litany of other tests to achieve ISO 6425 certification. In today’s Chronicle, we’re doing a deep dive into our picks for the five best dive watches for a new enthusiast. The post The Top 5 Dive Watches for Beginners Under $1,000 appeared first o...

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Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Many are Sep 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11

Many are quick to point to the venerable Seiko SKX and Seiko Turtle as being the best entry-level dive watches, even going as far as to label them as “must haves” in every collection. That being said, I have always gone a bit against the grain. Now don’t get me wrong, both of those watches have made their way into my permanent collection over the years with the Seiko SKX007 claiming its place as my first serious tool watch, though neither have managed to capture more wrist time than my Seiko Samurai. There is something about the angular architecture, the aggressive handset, and the considerably chunky feel on my wrist that has plucked a heart string within, leading me to argue in its defense and recommend it to those with large wrists akin to my own. So, when I learned that Seiko would be introducing a new generation of Samurai models this year with refined proportions and updated visuals, I jumped at the opportunity to add yet another one to my collection and ordered the red-dialed Seiko Samurai SRPL11. $575 Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Case Stainless steel Movement 4R35 Dial Red Lume Yes Lens Mineral Strap Bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 41.6 x 49mm Thickness 12.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $575 While other models in the Seiko lineup have ultimately remained the same over the years, the Seiko Samurai has seen quite a few changes in its relatively short lifetime. Since its inception in 2004, we have seen the...

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Breitling Introduces Sep 10, 2024

Breitling Introduces a Trio of Gold Perpetual Calendars for a Big Anniversary

Breitling has been synonymous with pilot watches and aviation for 140 years. Throughout their illustrious history, many iconic collections have been produced, including the Premier, the Chronomat, and, let’s not forget, the world-famous Navitimer. As they approached this significant anniversary, they found themselves in a delightful dilemma. They couldn’t choose which of the three collections should receive special attention. So, instead of choosing, they decided to feature all three, and that’s precisely what they did. And by special attention, they were not talking about just a new dial color, case material, or unique engraving. No, they are introducing a brand-new movement and a first for Breitling. This new B19 movement is not just a column-wheel chronograph, which features a vertical clutch mechanism and a moon phase. It is also a full perpetual calendar that can automatically correct for leap years and months of 28, 30, and 31 days. It can run for nearly one hundred years without significant adjustment, and despite all these extra complications, its power reserve is a very generous 96 hours. In 1943, the Breitling Premier was the watch that brought the chronograph out of the cockpit and onto the wrists of everyday people. With its classic lines, clean looks, and no-nonsense design, it not only looked fashionable but was also very practical. The new Premier B19 Datora 140th Anniversary is no different. It features an 18K red gold 42mm case, which is 15.6mm thick...

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Maurice Lacroix Adds New AIKON References Sep 10, 2024

Maurice Lacroix Adds New AIKON References in Titanium

Close your eyes and come with me on a walk down memory lane. It’s 2006. I’m in my sophomore year of high school and it’s homecoming season. There’s a dance after the first football game of October and I’m out on the floor, in my very best outfit from JCPenney, waiting for the next song to load from the DJ’s (or was it math teacher’s?) iPod Nano. A synth comes over the gymnasium speakers and my 15-year-old self is introduced to the Grammy-nominated album, Konvicted, by Akon. I don’t think I’ve ever been the same since that moment, dear reader. It’s now nearly 18 years later when I am reminded of this as the latest release from Maurice Lacroix on the extension of their AIKON line-up hits my inbox. Sure, it’s spelled slightly differently, but nostalgia makes rooms for homophones, don’t you think?  The Swiss watchmaker has been producing the AIKON line since 2016 and, for the first time, now comes in titanium. The new additions come in two model options (Automatic or Automatic Chronograph) and a total of four colorways, giving the wearer an array of options for their personal preference and daily needs. Let’s start with the basics first – why titanium? The most important reason people choose titanium is for its durability. As Maurice Lacroix has noted, these four titanium references were designed as a response to their customer base’s needs. Having a watch that can withstand the normal wear and tear of daily life is a blessing when you’re payin...

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Sep 9, 2024

The Apple Watch Series 10 is (Almost) Here

Every year, for the last ten years(!) Apple has held a press event at their Cupertino, CA headquarters to highlight the launch of a new Apple Watch (and new iPhones, Air Pods, and iOS advancements). It’s kind of hard to believe that the Apple Watch, a device that some said years ago could spell the literal death of the watch industry, has been around for a full decade. The supposed takeover of smartwatches was always a little overblown, I think. At the end of the day, they simply aren’t luxury products, and thus don’t really compete with most mechanical watches. It’s been interesting to observe over this ten year period, in fact, how many watch enthusiasts have embraced the Apple Watch. We have, at any given time, multiple double wristers in our own Worn & Wound offices. This shouldn’t really be all that surprising, though. The Apple Watch, from the very beginning, has taken cues from the world of traditional watchmaking, and some of the bells and whistles associated with the latest version of the watch could have been lifted from the press release of any number of high end Swiss luxury brands.  The centerpiece of the Apple Watch news at today’s event is the all new Apple Watch Series 10. The new device is being described by Apple as its lightest and thinnest yet, boasting a 10% thinner case height than the Series 9, and a 20% lighter weight than the stainless steel version of last year’s watch. It’s just 9.7mm thick, and the display is larger than the App...

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H. Moser Sep 9, 2024

Opinion: the Moser x Studio Underd0g Collab Was Great – the Reaction from the Watch Community Was Disappointing

Without fail, there’s a moment at big industry events when you realize you’re in a bubble. At every Watches & Wonders I’ve attended, and now following my first Geneva Watch Days, there’s been a new release that has “worked” in the room among the press and other members of the community who have actually seen it, but has been less warmly received (in certain quarters) by those back home. I felt this acutely when looking at the latest from H. Moser, a collaboration with Studio Underd0g that, when I saw the press release ahead of leaving for Switzerland, I was certain would be the enthusiast community’s favorite walking away. And while I think overall you’d have to admit the watch was widely praised from all sides, there was a surprising chorus of supposed Studio Underd0g fans who didn’t take to it as kindly.  When I was pointed toward heated Instagram comment threads by friends and colleagues days after seeing the watches I was genuinely surprised. When you’re at an event like this, you’re really kind of on your own little watch industry planet. I find that there’s simply not enough time to monitor reactions to everything with a busy meeting schedule and almost no down time. It’s kind of nice, honestly, to be consumed by a single thing for a short period of time. It has a cleansing effect. But it means I’m not idly scrolling through Instagram, so the peanut gallery commentary on all the new releases was lost on me.  To summarize, the reactions i...

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Sep 9, 2024

GoPro Announces a Pair of New Cameras Offering Big Improvements

It’s probably not an exaggeration to say that GoPro is one of the most influential and consequential tech companies to spring up in the past two decades or so. Known for their easy to use, affordable, and compact action cameras, they have defined an entire product category, and influenced the way everything from YouTube videos and feature films are shot. Their ubiquity is obvious in the outdoor sports and recreation world, and they’re almost as essential a piece of gear as proper footwear and a pocket knife. Over the years, GoPro has continually refined and improved their core products, expanding use cases and making it even easier for just about anyone to capture high quality video of their lives, whether they be banal and mundane or a constant adrenaline rush. The newest GoPros, the Hero and the Hero13 Black, offer a suite of improvements of their predecessors that should benefit casual and more professional oriented users.  The Hero enters the lineup as a slim downed unit that is the smallest ever GoPro with an integrated screen. It weighs just 86 grams and is being positioned as an easy to use 4k video camera aimed at curious amateur videographers who might use it during hardcore outdoor activities like alpine skiing, mountaineering, or water sports (it’s waterproof to 15 feet), or something more sedate like vlogging a vacation experience. The rear facing LCD screen is meant to help frame up shots, and users then control the action from the same screen by touch....

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Sinn Revives Sep 9, 2024

Finally! Sinn Revives an Iconic Military Chronograph

Sinn fans rejoice; the Frankfurt favorite has finally released a watch we’ve all been waiting for. 156 is a number that most Sinn fans have memorized as it refers to one of the most excellent watches in the Sinn archives, not just because of its looks but also because of its lineage and movement(s). You see, the story of the 156 begins with a watch by a different brand altogether, the Heuer-Leonidas Bundeswehr 1550 SG, commonly called the “Heuer Bund.” image credit: analogshift.com A pilot’s chronograph used in the 60s and 70s mainly by the German airforce, though others as well, the Bund was a remarkable tool watch of its day. Powered by the manual wound Valjoux 22 and Valjoux 230 calibers, they featured flyback mechanisms and a clean, bold design with large lumed numerals and a particularly appealing bezel layout. Measuring 43mm in diameter and 13mm thick, they were huge for the era, though in keeping with pilot watch tradition. Helmut Sinn, the founder of Sinn, purchased old inventory of these watches in the 1980s, reconditioned them, added Sinn branding, and rebadged them as the Sinn 155 Bw. In the late 1980s, Helmut set out to create a new generation of military-issued pilot’s chronographs with the 156 by combining the case and general dial design of the 155/Bund with relatively new-to-the-market automatic chronograph movements by Lemania. Thus, the 156 is the direct successor to the Bund via the 155. My Sinn 156 – gone, but not forgotten The 156s most com...

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Louis Erard Colorful New G-SHOCKs Sep 8, 2024

Roundup: An Art-Deco Louis Erard, Colorful New G-SHOCKs, and a Sharp EDC Upgrade

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. The post Roundup: An Art-Deco Louis Erard, Colorful New G-SHOCKs, and a Sharp EDC Upgrade appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Blancpain Sep 7, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The New York City Subway Turns 120, Peak Design Gets Outdoors, and the MoonSwatch is Finally Available Online

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The MoonSwatch is Finally Available Online  In what is probably the biggest bit of MoonSwatch news since the viral Bioceramic sensation was first unveiled a few years ago, Swatch has finally made some of the popular and colorful watches available through their online store. This was a move that was (kinda) promised by Swatch early on, then essentially forgotten about amid a never ending stream of new variants featuring cartoon dogs, moonphase complications, and even a wholly new collaboration with Blancpain. Still, MoonSwatch availability online will please many who simply don’t have access to a Swatch store or care to purchase on the secondary market. To start, only four variants will be available through the Swatch website: Mission on Earth, Mission to the Moon, Mission to the Sun, and Mission to Mars, and they’ll only be available for customers in the United States and China. At the time of this writing, all four are in stock and ready to ship, so if you’ve been after a MoonSwatch with no lines and minimal waiting, now’s your chance. Peak Design Gets Outdoors  It’s no ...

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Girard-Perregaux Sep 6, 2024

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Speedy, a Gorgeous Girard-Perregaux, and an Uncommon Longines in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Girard Perregaux Minimalist Automatic First up this week is this sweet vintage Girard Perregaux dress watch. Like the seller says, it looks to be New Old Stock, complete with the original sticker on the back as well as the original hang tag. The case is 35mm wide, not including the crown, which appears to be signed with the GP logo. The case looks like steel, but the hang tag says steel and chrome, so I’m guessing the back is steel and the case is chrome plated. That said, it’s in perfect shape with no visible pitting. The silver dial has a nice vertical brushed finish with applied gold markers and gold hands, and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. Seller states the watch runs well. Great looking and understated dress watch.  View auction here Vintage Rado Las Palmas  Here is a really cool looking vintage Rado Las Palmas. Rado has made a lot of great models, and I’ve never seen or even heard of the Las Palmas. The steel case has a solid, 1970’s look, with a polished finish. The silver dial also screams 70’s, with the vertical brushed finish and large, applied steel markers. Of course, the dial also has the Rado spinning anchor logo at 12 o’clock. The caseback has a deeply ...

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Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Sep 6, 2024

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

Moving from meeting to meeting at Geneva Watch Days, it’s easy to get lost in the opulent, luxurious novelties. But when you meet with Armin Strom, you’re brought back to a kind of pure watch nerdery that transcends the luxurious surroundings of shows like this. Armin Strom, even while producing watches that I think are objectively great looking, is all about mechanical innovation. There isn’t a watch in their collection that doesn’t have a novel mechanical trick up its sleeve. The Gravity Equal Force that Zach looked at recently is a great example. It has all the aesthetic and design trappings of what we think of as today’s modern high end indie watchmaking, but the real appeal lies in the watchmaking itself. It’s an important distinction that most enthusiasts understand intrinsically – some watches and brands just have a laser focus on engineering, and that’s sort of what sets Armin Strom apart.  The brand’s big Geneva Watch Days release is, simply put, a showstopper, and perhaps the most fascinating watch of the week. It’s certainly a significant horological accomplishment. The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition takes Armin Strom’s already unique take on the resonance concept and shrinks it down to an almost impossible to believe size in a watch that takes a completely novel approach to timekeeping and provides a great deal of practical functionality to make it downright approachable. It also just happens to be a stunning piece of horological a...

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Sep 6, 2024

Students, It’s Time to Upgrade Your EDC

It’s official: back-to-school season is in full swing. But while you’re stocking up on your favorite school supplies, don’t forget to reevaluate your everyday carry. Everyday carry, or EDC, is that collection of items that find their way into your pockets each and every day. It’s the tools you rely on a day-to-day basis; and, when chosen carefully, will help you feel prepared to take on whatever may come your way. In today’s Chronicle, we examine four ways to upgrade your EDC for the new academic year. Hope you’re ready to take notes because the class is now in session. It’s official: back-to-school season is in full swing. But while you’re stocking up on your favorite school supplies, don’t forget to reevaluate your everyday carry. Everyday carry, or EDC, is that collection of items that find their way into your pockets each and every day. It’s the tools you rely on a day-to-day basis; and, when chosen carefully, will help you feel prepared to take on whatever may come your way. In today’s Chronicle, we examine four ways to upgrade your EDC for the new academic year. Hope you’re ready to take notes because the class is now in session. The post Students, It’s Time to Upgrade Your EDC appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Sep 6, 2024

Enthusiast Spotlight: Hitting the High Notes with Brooklyn’s Own Ajii and the G-SHOCK GM2110D G-Steel

Worn & Wound has been a Brooklyn-based operation ever since its first post. We’ve got a lot of love for our location, our neighbors, and the culture that regularly pours out of this borough. So when we heard that one of Brooklyn’s own made this year’s top 20 of American Idol and that he’s a G-SHOCK super-fan, we had to have Ajii join us in our studio. Born and raised not far from us, Ajii is a first generation Brooklynite whose parents immigrated from Pakistan just prior to his birth. His colorful style, steel nerves, and serious pipes became the perfect backdrop for us to explore the all-new G-SHOCK GM2110D G-Steel.   Hey Ajii! Thanks for being the next subject in our ongoing series of Enthusiast Spotlights with G-SHOCK. Give us the quick bio on yourself and what you’re up to these days! I’m so happy to do this, man. My name is Ajii. I am 28 years old and I’m born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. I am a musician. I was on the most recent season of American Idol and now I’m chasing a dream and trying to make my parents proud. I think that’s what I’m about. And hopefully, with consistency and everything I’m doing, it pans out the way I want. So I’m just a poor man living in a rich man’s world, trying to do big things.   The post Enthusiast Spotlight: Hitting the High Notes with Brooklyn’s Own Ajii and the G-SHOCK GM2110D G-Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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TAG Heuer Gets Extreme Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras

If you’d told me eighteen months ago that the TAG Heuer Carrera would, in very short order, find itself once again at the center of enthusiast interest, there’s a very good chance I’d have laughed you out of the room. And yet, here we sit, 17 months on from the release of the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and there can be no doubt - thanks in part to an expanded lineup of compelling variants of the 39mm chronograph, as well as exciting interpretations like the widely discussed and sought after Seafarer LE for HODINKEE - that TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph is one of the hottest watches on the market. But the Glassbox is only one side of the Carrera story. Now, TAG Heuer is leaning into the other side with the unveiling of a new technical chronograph. Where the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ looks to the history of the Carrera, the new Carrera Extreme Sport - introduced as a collection of six watches spread across two models: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport - present a vision of the future and a bold one at that. The two new models share a lot in common, most notably a shared aesthetic and case design. Both the Chronograph Extreme Sport and the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport measure 44mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug. Certainly not small, but also decidedly wearable for a chronograph meant to wear large. The lug-to-lug measure, in particular, is deceptively compact and shou...

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Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement which Sep 5, 2024

Roue Adds Two New References to the TPS Collections

Since 2019, watchmakers Roue have been updating their TPS model in new colors, bringing new life to a vintage-inspired design. In the past, we have covered their releases of Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, and Seven – so you can make a pretty educated guess of what’s been released this week.  Like previous iterations of their TPS collection, the Eight and Nine are inspired by the iconic Porsche 910, winner of the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967 (a detail which can be seen on the embossed caseback of this line). The racing inspiration can be felt throughout this watch, most especially in the colorways for both new references. In Eight, you will find a gray dial with orange and yellow accents. For Nine, the tonal language is more classic, utilizing a blue dial with red and white accents. Both watches come with complementary straps which are at once sporty and a bit elegant – much like the TPS line itself. One can choose either a perforated leather Driver strap, or a sportier silicone option.  Features of this watch include a chronograph with both a tachymeter and pulsometer scale. Given the limited real estate on this 40mm case, one would think these functions might be a little squeezed into the frame, so to speak. But Roue has proven time and again that the TPS model is a great example of a perfectly proportioned dial.  The Roue TPS Eight and Nine, like previous iterations, run on a Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement, which combines the accuracy of quartz techno...

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Louis Erard Partners Sep 5, 2024

Louis Erard Partners with Stefan Kudoke for their Latest Le Regulateur Limited Edition

Louis Erard continues their ongoing series of collaborations with important independent watchmakers via their Le Regulateur collection with a new group of limited editions made in collaboration with Stefan Kudoke. Kudoke is a German watchmaker who has gained a great deal of acclaim in recent years for his beautifully simple timepieces that tend to feature simple dials with subtle textures and elaborately engraved movements. The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 references are seen by many connoisseurs as modern classics, and like all of Stefan’s watches they have immediately recognizable motifs that make them distinctly “Kudoke.” These Louis Erard limited editions borrow just the right amount of these design elements to make them easily identifiable as being made in partnership with Kudoke, but probably only to the most serious watch nerds. Compared to previous limited editions with watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein, the Kudoke watches feel considerably more under the radar and less flashy, which is fitting given the general aesthetic Kudoke is known for.  The Le Regulateur concept feels like a natural for a collaboration with Kudoke because so much of his work is based in a certain kind of precision that is part and parcel with traditional German watchmaking. For example, Kudoke’s watches tend to feature meticulously finished nameplates, chapter rings, which are represented on these watches in the dual signatures on each dial, as well as the railway t...

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Holthinrichs Progress Report Updates Sep 4, 2024

A Holthinrichs Progress Report: Updates on the Signature Collection and the Ornament Nouveau

Earlier this spring, when the Worn & Wound team was in Switzerland for Watches & Wonders, we had a somewhat impromptu meeting with the Holthinrichs team at a very pleasant but nondescript Geneva coffee shop, somewhat off the beaten path of watch fair hysteria that grips the city during show season. It was there that we got our first look at the Signature Collection, a major shift in strategy for the brand, now planning to offer watches with a familiarly intricate case design but at a much lower price point than previous collections, thanks to new manufacturing partnerships and a retreat from 3D printing, a process that simply became to expensive as the brand’s designs became more complex. Founder Michiel Holthinrichs also told us about an ambitious new project during this meeting, the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that sits squarely in the haute horlogerie space. At that last meeting, Michiel only had renders of the Ornament Nouveau to show us on his phone, and some crude 3D printed prototype cases (in plastic) of the Signature Collection. Just a few months later, I sat down with Michiel and his team once again, at that same coffee shop, and was able to lay my hands on real watches that were every bit as impressive as I had hoped they’d be. It was a particular treat to see the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that the team is immensely proud of.  A quick caveat – we’re still dealing with prototypes here in the case of the Signature Collection pieces. The team had hoped to be...

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Ulysse Nardin Sep 4, 2024

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days

One of my first and most eagerly anticipated Geneva Watch Days meetings was with Favre Leuba, a brand that I’ve admired for a very long time, even as its modern incarnation felt like a shell of the brand of its vintage heyday. Favre Leuba is a brand with a long history, dating back to the first half of the 18th century, and is perhaps best known for the Bivouac, a watch with an integrated altimeter complication. Ownership of the brand has changed many times over the years, and in recent years the marque was controlled by various holding companies that never did justice to the watches created in Favre Leuba’s best years. This year, however, marks a new start for the brand, under the leadership of watch industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, who had a long stint at Ulysse Nardin, and later WatchBox. At Geneva Watch Days, they debuted a robust new collection of watches that pays homage to the brand’s history while also looking forward, giving Favre Leuba the best chance they’ve had in years for real success.  Patrik Hoffmann at Geneva Watch Days 2024 There are multiple ways to relaunch a brand. You can start small, even with a single watch, and work your way toward building a collection. Or you can go big with something akin to the kitchen sink approach, with varied collections and price points. The advantage, I suppose, of going big is that a brand will get immediate feedback on what works and what doesn’t, but it also seems risky. What if none of it works? Favre Leuba...

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Sep 4, 2024

Top Watches for Students and Grads

With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. The post Top Watches for Students and Grads appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Lemania Longines IWC Omega Sep 3, 2024

Hands-On: the Praesidus DD-45 “Patina”

The muggy jungle of the South Pacific was no place for weak watches. As World War II raged through the early 1940s, Allied troops found themselves trailing behind the production capabilities of their Axis counterparts, and manufacturing on the homefront turned all attention to the war effort. Civilian-spec’d watches were not going to cut it in either theater of operations – the elements were too brutal for delicate equipment of any kind. Military necessity being the timeless innovator it is, the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) committed to finding robust timekeeping options for the Allies that could be produced as quickly as possible. The specifications were stringent and twelve brands were tapped for the task: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. Among many other things, the watches were to have a black dial, Arabic numerals and be housed in a stainless steel case. The time would be made legible with the help of luminous indices and hands – care for a little radium, anyone? Every watch was marked on the caseback with triple Ws: Wrist Watch Waterproof. The diameter ranged in sizes, depending on the brand, with Longines at the larger end of 38mm and IWC and Omega on the small side at 35mm. These watches are widely considered to be the first true field watches, as we know field watches today.  The entire set, one watch from each of the twelve brands selected for production, is a collection-grail for ...

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Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Sep 3, 2024

The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage

The upward trajectory of Christopher Ward in the eyes of enthusiasts and collectors has been well documented over the last few years. The Bel Canto, of course, completely changed the game for the brand, and was an announcement to the broader watchmaking community of something ardent supporters have known for quite some time: that the team at Christopher Ward is capable of real outside-the-box thinking, and has an ambition to tweak expectations far beyond that of most brands in their price range. They have periodically introduced watches since that in one way or another qualify as what you might call “statement pieces,” or watches that seem to exist for the purpose of shifting the community’s expectations around the brand. The Twelve X, introduced earlier this year, is a perfect example, and I’d also point you toward a personal favorite of mine, the C1 Moonphase, which works as an art piece the same was some of the watches created by my favorite high end independents. Their latest offering, at least on the surface, is perhaps not as paradigm shifting as any of the watches mentioned previously, but it’s still generating an awful lot of chatter online for a series of dramatic improvements to just about every feature of a core offering from Christopher Ward: the dive watch.  The Trident collection, Christopher Ward’s dive watch range, is now in its 15th year, and the new C60 Trident Lumière is described by the brand as the pinnacle of the series to date. There ar...

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Citizen Watch family Sep 3, 2024

Alpina Launches the Alpiner Extreme Skeleton

For more than 140 years, Alpina has made a name for itself as a premier watch brand for sportsmen and adventurers alike. Now under the Citizen Watch family, the Swiss brand continues to bring to market exciting watches that often punch way above their weight class. Take, for example, the latest release by the brand: the Alpiner Extreme Skeleton. Coming in two references, depending on the strap chosen, these watches mark an interesting advent for the brand: marrying sports watch performance with a skeletonized dial in one.  Every millimeter of this Alpiner iteration has been consciously redesigned for both aesthetics and performance. It’s hard to talk about this watch without mentioning the namesake skeleton architecture of the watch. Of course, the lack of a proper dial gives us a peek into the inner workings of the movement; it’s the small finishes throughout the watch that make it truly impressive. Take, for instance, the finishing on the movement that alternates between satin and polished surfaces. Or the hour markers applied by hand to the crystal, giving them a floating appearance against a dialless backdrop. Or the luminescent hands which tie it all together and remind one that this is, first and foremost, a sports watch. It’s all packed into a compact and wearable 39mm x 40.55 mm cushion case. Noted earlier, this watch comes in two references. The first (AL-520GSKT3AE6B) is a monochromatic gray variant that’s inspired by the Alpine foothills. This reference...

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Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Sep 2, 2024

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey

One of the things I will absolutely never tire of when it comes to attending watch shows like Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days is the opportunity to handle watches that would be simply impossible to view at any other time. These events are important for networking purposes and to see and learn about new releases from mass market brands as early as possible so we can share them with our readers, but let’s be honest: even the “rare” watches from brands that are part of the big luxury groups are relatively easy to see if you’re in New York City and connected to the watch media or collector world. But there are some watches that when they’re brought out, you understand immediately that you’re probably getting your one, last look. That’s the impression I got at my Girard-Perregaux meeting when they showed me the La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey.  I saw lots of cool stuff over three very busy and sweaty days taking meetings in the Beau Rivage and other hotels that lack American style air conditioning during Geneva Watch Days, but if you asked me to narrow things down and pick just one watch that is simply the most beautiful object I saw during my time there, the Esmerelda gets my vote. Beauty, as we know, is in the eye of the beholder, so I won’t speak in absolute terms here. It would be perfectly reasonable to prefer the Garrick S3 or the Armin Strom Dual Time Resonance, or virtually any number of other great watches. But the Esmerelda ...

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Grand Seiko Just Released Sep 2, 2024

Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch!

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...

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Laco s newest pilot chronograph Sep 1, 2024

Roundup: Pilot’s Watches, An Affordable Perpetual Calendar, and Great Deal on Bauhaus-Inspired Design

Laco’s newest pilot chronograph blends the German brand’s aviation heritage into a modern ultra-capable tool watch. With one foot planted in the past and the other in the future, the Kiel Sport is a contemporary take on the classic Flieger, weaving a Type A dial into a tri-compax chronograph. Laco’s newest pilot chronograph blends the German brand’s aviation heritage into a modern ultra-capable tool watch. With one foot planted in the past and the other in the future, the Kiel Sport is a contemporary take on the classic Flieger, weaving a Type A dial into a tri-compax chronograph. The post Roundup: Pilot’s Watches, An Affordable Perpetual Calendar, and Great Deal on Bauhaus-Inspired Design appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Grand Seiko Sep 1, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More!

On episode 88 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss takes you through several new and wild releases. Geneva Watch Days kicked off last week and with it, many cool things were announced. But that’s not all, as there were some surprise announcements too. There was a lot to cover from Armin Strom to Grand Seiko to Tudor. Check it out below. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which has just added several awesome watches to its collection. From Hamilton, they’ve added the just released 33 and 38mm Khaki Field Quartz. Yes, 33mm just like the original Khaki fields. From Louis Erard is the new Metropolis Green, an art deco inspired collaboration with the Instagram famous @thehorophile. There’s also more from Casio, G-SHOCK, Laco, and others so head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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