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Worn & Wound · Page 60

3,023 articles  ·  Page 60 of 101
Möels + Co., their Young Design-Forward Owner, and the New 369 Worn & Wound
Apr 16, 2024

Möels + Co., their Young Design-Forward Owner, and the New 369

It’s always worth celebrating when we see true design artistry and a successful attempt at bringing something wholly unique to the micro-independent watch community. Betina Menescal is the creative mind behind Möels + Co. At 24 years old she is a powerhouse of fresh ideas and is determined to design watches that are completely original. You won’t find a single component in one of her watches, aside from the Sellita movements and straps, in a catalog anywhere. The numerals, the hands, the case, the crystal are all entirely designed by Betina, and manufactured for her alone.  The Designer To say that Betina comes from an artistic family would be an understatement. There are three opera singers, a children’s musician, and her father, who would turn out to be a great influence for Betina. He was briefly into architecture but quickly moved on to media production. Among his credits: he was a co-director for the movie Anaconda, and produced commercials for the likes of Coca-Cola, Asics, Adidas, and did World Cup commercials for Gillette.  When Betina was nine years old, her father took her on a business trip to Buenos Aires. “My dad didn’t know how to talk to kids. So all he was doing was looking at the buildings and mentioning the architecture here, and the art there. Look at that little detail on the facade or the ceiling.” Betina began to notice that her father had an eye for these details, and how these small features fit into a whole. “It was always a big pr...

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Hands-On: the Peren Regia and Regia X Worn & Wound
Apr 16, 2024

Hands-On: the Peren Regia and Regia X

Close your eyes and picture a watch. It probably has three hands and a round case. Watches come in all shapes and with any number of hands, but for the most part, they stick to these two staples. In fact, these standards are so expected that we don’t even discuss them. Never have I written a review that noted a watch having a round case or the number of hands unless it was a GMT. For the average person, the visual likely stops with a round case and three hands, but your enthusiast-driven imagination probably dug deeper to include a dial. But even with all the variety and possibilities a dial can hold, we again have a few design staples that aren’t often deviated from. Indices are usually some sort of circle, triangle or square. Date windows, if they exist, are probably found at the 3:00, the 6:00, or maybe even placed at 4:30 if brands feel tempted to be more divisive than your Uncle Dan when he brings up politics at Thanksgiving dinner. I often find myself torn between loving these staples of design, while craving watches that dare deviate from them. There is a strong argument to be made not to deviate. Tried and true designs have reserved admiration in our hearts, and sometimes deviating can just look plain wrong. Shoot for the moon and you’ll land among the stars makes for a wonderful motivational poster to hang on a classroom wall. But when it comes to watches, shooting for the moon can land you with unsold inventory and shockingly harsh comments on your social m...

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Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGC275 Apr 15, 2024

Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial

Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog.  Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Line Makes a Triumphant Return Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Line Makes Apr 15, 2024

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Line Makes a Triumphant Return

When I say Jaeger LeCoultre, you say Reverso! Or Memovox! Or maybe Polaris! Or something to that effect. The point is that Jaeger LeCoultre, JLC to the cool kids, has a few iconic models immediately associated with its vaunted Maison. But the archives run deeper and into stranger horological territories. At Watches & Wonders 2024, JLC refreshed a lesser-known and appreciated line of watches epitomizing its watchmaking chops: the Duometre. First launched in 2007 with a chronograph, the Duometres presented a novel solution to an issue that concerns all watches with complications, that of the complications taking power out of the movement to function, thus decreasing the accuracy of the timekeeping and potentially power reserve. While a lesser issue in date complications, chronographs notoriously wreak havoc on a movement’s amplitude due to the power draw. But, JLC found a solution– to have separate barrels and gear trains for timekeeping and everything else, linked by the escapement. Hence, “duo.” The resulting watches and calibers are dramatic, to say the least. The movements are massive and ornate, with pronounced barrels on one side. To wind the movement, you turn the crown one way and then the other, like a ratcheting system, winding both barrels. Dial side, the duo concept is further played out with the hour and minutes displayed on a decentralized smaller dial to one side of the larger dial and the complication on the other. The seconds, however, is displayed a...

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Bell & Ross Introduces Ceramic to the BR 05 Collection Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces Ceramic Apr 15, 2024

Bell & Ross Introduces Ceramic to the BR 05 Collection

For Watches & Wonders 2024, Bell & Ross is bringing ceramic somewhere it’s never gone before - the BR 05 collection of integrated bracelet sports watches - with a trio of black ceramic options with matching black ceramic bracelets. When Bell & Ross introduced the BR 05 five years ago, it seemed like a somewhat esoteric, slightly fringe addition to the brand’s offerings. I remember feeling like it was a watch made more to check a box than anything else. But in the last half-decade, the BR 05 has, increasingly and slowly, become a major pillar of the Bell & Ross catalog and earned fans left and right. These additions also feel a little like checking a box - but in the best way. Ceramic has long been a core material for Bell & Ross, with many of its iconic and recognizable square-cased cockpit instruments, like the BR 03-94 Multimeter, making use of the material. So it was only a matter of time before we saw the distinctive material make its way to the BR 05. The new BR 05 ceramic trio are, mostly, the same watches we’ve seen over the last few years, but there are some small, but significant, differences between the ceramic and steel versions (besides the material). The BR 05 Black Ceramic models are 1mm wider than their steel counterparts, measuring in at 41mm. The BR 05 Black Ceramic is still thin, measuring in at 11.2mm, but again, it is a slight increase when compared to the steel option (which is a svelte 10.5mm). Per Bell & Ross, these changes in dimension w...

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The Roundup: New Zodiacs and Citizens, Rugged, Carabiners, and…Robots? Worn & Wound
Citizen s Rugged Carabiners and…Robots? Apr 14, 2024

The Roundup: New Zodiacs and Citizens, Rugged, Carabiners, and…Robots?

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we spotlight some exciting new watches from Zodiac and Citizen: the new GMT and second-generation of the lauded Tsuyosa. Moving on to gear and accessories, we have standout hits from Wesn and ADPT. Finally, our deal of the week is a special Benrus watch that you may not have seen before. Get the inside scoop below! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry...

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Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Alpina Apr 14, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep.78 – Watches & Wonder 2024

This week’s episode of A Week in Watches is coming straight from Geneva! Yes, it’s episode 78, recorded at and during Watches & Wonders 2024, right on the floor of the Palexpo. Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan co-host, go over the watches and some of the wonders they experienced from brands such as Tudor, Grand Seiko, Rolex, and more. Be sure to stay tuned to the end for some outtakes! Episode 78 of A Week in Watches is brought to you by Windup Watch Fair San Francisco. In under 2 weeks, please join us for an incredible showcase of watchmaking and more at Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion on San Francisco’s Pier 2. This year’s fair is in a new venue that boasts two expansive floors that will set the stage for over 60 presenting brands, including Marathon, Nivada Grenchen, Zodiac, and more. In addition to the main event, there will be live podcast recordings, food trucks, bars, and special giveaways. We will also be holding live panels with our lead sponsors, Oris, Fortis, Christopher Ward, Alpina, and Anordain, as well as a sponsored photo walk with Camera West and a group bike ride sponsored by The Radavist. Things kick off on Friday, May 3, and wrap up on Sunday, May 5. Hours are 12PM – 6PM on Friday and Saturday, and 12PM – 5PM on Sunday. Windup Watch Fair The post A Week in Watches Ep.78 – Watches & Wonder 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Collection Here’s Apr 13, 2024

Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection

Here’s a thing you may or may not know about Watches & Wonders: there are very few genuine surprises once we hit the Palexpo floor. Almost every brand (Rolex, Tudor, and Patek are the big holdouts) send press releases to media weeks before the show so coverage can be prepped. By the time we walk into a meeting with virtually any brand exhibiting, we already have the key information on their new novelties and are just looking for additional context, hands-on impressions, and an opportunity to get those all important photos. But sometimes brands hold back a release or two, and this will sometimes result in the kind of extremely welcome surprise I experienced when I visited Zenith early this week. One of my favorite brands has dive watches again.  We already told you about the Defy Skyline Chronograph, but in addition to that watch Zenith had an even bigger (literally and figuratively) Defy up their sleeve. The new Defy Extreme Diver represents the brand’s long awaited return to the dive watch category, and they’ve done it where you’d expect: within the highly technical and sometimes brazen Defy range. The new Extreme Diver has an imposing 42.5mm titanium case with the characteristic 12 sided bezel common to other Defys, and outside this fixed bezel we get a ceramic dive bezel. The case is rated to an extremely unnecessary 600 meters, which is the same depth as the original Defy diver, the A3648, from 1969.  The dial utilizes the star pattern that has become standar...

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Our Morning with Cartier Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Cartier can be thought Apr 12, 2024

Our Morning with Cartier

There’s really nothing like the Cartier meeting at Watches & Wonders. Along with Rolex and Patek Philippe, Cartier can be thought of as an anchor brand of the show. They have one of the largest booth spaces, with nonstop foot traffic, and a veritable army of cheery employees who are happy to show you watch, after watch, after watch in your meeting. It’s a seemingly never-ending parade of beautiful objects. To me, that’s what an event like this is all about. Why are we here if not to gawk? In terms of sheer volume, Cartier is your best bet for that.  What’s wonderful about Cartier, though, is that the beautiful objects aren’t necessarily completely unobtainable, and the brand works hard to make even the most head turning pieces feel approachable (at least in the context of the show). While you’ll see your fair share of unique pieces and watches that have no listed price because if you have to ask, well, you know how it goes, there are accessible ways into the brand that give you plenty of what is essential about Cartier.  My favorite example of this for 2024 is a new dial variant for the Santos, in a metallic brown with a gradient effect. It’s lovely, and pretty clearly meant to evoke something that has aged naturally over a period of many years. It’s available as both a large and medium Santos, but it’s very clear that the medium is the “correct” size for this watch. It works considerably better when it’s a little more discreet.  It joins a growi...

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Norqain Doubles Down on Its Wild One Collection with New Colorways and an Innovative Platform Where You Can Create a Custom Model Worn & Wound
Norqain Doubles Down Apr 12, 2024

Norqain Doubles Down on Its Wild One Collection with New Colorways and an Innovative Platform Where You Can Create a Custom Model

When it comes to ones to watch, Norqain definitely makes the list. In the past year in particular, its momentum seems to be steadily growing. Right now, the brand is notching its first Watches & Wonders, and just ahead of the show, seasoned collector Mark Wahlberg was spotted rocking the Wild One Skeleton all around town-I’d say this gives Norqain some serious street cred. Last week, the brand also shared some pretty exciting news: three-time Grand Slam-winning tennis champion Stan Wawrinka is now an invested partner in the company, and he inspired two new versions of the popular Wild One Skeleton. In addition, Norqain has doubled down on the collection, unveiling a totally new platform where you can create your very own piece unique Wild One.  You’ll recall when Norqain’s Wild One got the skeleton treatment last year. The new configuration offered the benefit of a reimagined dial revealing the COSC-certified Caliber N08S (Sellita SW200-1 S c) movement but still fell a bit short in terms of legibility. Still, the model delivered on performance thanks to the brand’s proprietary, ultra-lightweight, rigid, and durable carbon fiber derived NORTEQ material that makes up a large portion of the case body and can withstand shocks up to 5,000g. This feature was a major draw for Wawrinka, who put the turquoise variation to the test on the court at the U.S. Open last year and now brings us two new colorways fit for the upcoming Grand Slam season: a bright coral iteration f...

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TAG Heuer’s Wild New Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer s Wild New Monaco Apr 12, 2024

TAG Heuer’s Wild New Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph

If the narrative around Watches & Wonders 2024 is a slate of subdued, iterative watches that are somewhat short on the “wonders,” a take that has been forming even before the beginning of the show, counterpoints will inevitably be offered in the discourse. This year’s flashiest release from TAG Heuer, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, is perhaps the most compelling piece of evidence that some brands, even the absolute largest among them, are still trying to wow us. It’s a big, bold reminder that the “AG” in TAG stands for avant-garde, and after a year spent focusing on one of the best consumer products the brand has released in years in their Glassbox line of Carreras, it points toward their other key strength.  TAG is showcasing the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph as the next stage in a long line of precision chronographs, going back a more than a century, beginning with the legendary Mikrograph in 1916, a stopwatch used in Olympic timekeeping in the 1920s and 1930s that was capable of recording timing intervals to the 1/100th of a second. This watch was followed by the Microsplit, which could do the same, but with the addition of rattrapante functionality. Heuer continued to produce iconic chronographs and stopwatches throughout the 1960s, always making the most of the watchmaking technology available. That includes quartz timekeeping, with the introduction of a battery powered split-second chronograph worn by some of the most recognizable names in moto...

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Just A Minute With The James Brand Warrick Worn & Wound
Apr 12, 2024

Just A Minute With The James Brand Warrick

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. Today we have a real treat in the form of the Warrick Bit Driver Multi Tool from The James Brand. Truly astonishing is the fact that this 9 centimeter-long tool functions as a fully-capable screwdriver and comes with four of the most widely-used WIHA (walk-in hunting access) bits. It also features other thoughtful details that make it an instant EDC essential, all in your pocket – find out more by watching the video below! “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. Today we have a real treat in the form of the Warrick Bit Driver Multi Tool from The James Brand. Truly astonishing is the fact that this 9 centimeter-long tool functions...

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H. Moser Introduces a Skeletonized Streamliner Tourbillon in Steel Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Apr 12, 2024

H. Moser Introduces a Skeletonized Streamliner Tourbillon in Steel

Just in time for Watches & Wonders 2024, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring. In other words? Moser has produced a dramatically skeletonized flying tourbillon movement with their signature double hairspring, and they’ve put it in a Streamliner. It’s been a few years now since H. Moser & Cie. released the very first Streamliner, and there can be no doubt that in a very short time, that watch has come to represent the brand in a very real way. Since the launch of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph four years ago, Moser’s somewhat quirky entry into the integrated bracelet market has seen a steady stream of new releases and added complication, and today sees yet another new execution. This isn’t one of those new releases that shows us a bunch of things we’ve never seen before, but rather draws from several disparate threads that have been floating around the Moser universe and ties them together into a single, compelling package. The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton builds on the premise of the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack that Zach reviewed back in 2022. But where that watch hid its movement behind literally as black a dial as you can possibly find, this year’s release goes in another direction, one more in line with another 2022 Moser release, the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. What results is a watch that is exactly what you might expect, given the name on the tin. The Streamliner Tourbillon Sk...

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[Video] Hands-On Impressions of the New Rolex Novelties Worn & Wound
Rolex Novelties Rolex always seems Apr 11, 2024

[Video] Hands-On Impressions of the New Rolex Novelties

Rolex always seems to be the talk of the town during Watches & Wonders. It’s the first booth everyone flocks to on Day 1 at 8:30am when the curtains come up. It’s quite the site to see actually. We at Worn & Wound can’t deny the effect the Rolex releases have on not only watch enthusiasts but the entire luxury world. THIS is what people are waiting for. Well the question of the day is..was the wait worth it this year?  I had a sneaky feeling that this would be sort of a mild year for Rolex. They did so much last year at Watches & Wonders with the new Daytona collection, the Emoji Day-Date, and of course the Gumball Oyster Perpetual. That’s a lot to top. Even though I got the sense that most people were underwhelmed with the releases this year, I was very excited to have my first ever appointment with Rolex at the show to get hands on. I got to spend about 40 minutes with all the new releases and I’ll be honest, I think they’re great. The watch that really struck me and I personally feel is the strongest release for Rolex this year is the new Perpetual 1908 in Ice Blue. The dial was absolutely mesmerizing and features what Rolex calls a guilloche rice-grain motif. I often hear from the watch community that Rolex is sometimes too simple or just doesn’t “wow”. I think anyone would have a hard time picking up this watch and not being impressed by the level of finishing it has. Cased in 950 platinum, the watch also features the calibre 7140 which of course ho...

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Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek Worn & Wound
Czapek Czapek & Cie has Apr 11, 2024

Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek

Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...

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TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Apr 11, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera

It is no secret that one of the star releases at last year’s Watches & Wonders was the Tag Heuer Carrera Skipper Chronograph, featuring their new glassbox design. This watch remains ever popular, as one year later, retailers still cannot keep them in inventory. Not willing to rest on their laurels, for 2024, Tag Heuer is releasing a solid gold version of the Carrera Skipper Chronograph. Made of 18K 5N rose gold, dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Its distinctive blue dial features a green, orange, teal blue color lacquered regatta count-down indicator at 3 o’clock, a teal blue color lacquered hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a blue permanent second indicator at 6 o’clock. All hands and indices are also made of 18K 5N rose gold. This new Carrera Chronograph Skipper brings a new level of luxury and collectability to TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper is 21,500 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. Images from this post: The post TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Apr 11, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph

Following the success of last year’s glassbox Carrera chronograph releases, Tag Heuer extends the collection with a new for 2024 bi-compax panda look in stainless steel.  This watch features a silver brushed sunray dial, with a black minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, a black hour chronograph totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a permanent seconds indicator in silver at 6 o’clock. Dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. What made last year’s releases so appealing was their new combination of a concave dial and outward convex tachymeter rehaut, which hugged the outer curvature of the glassbox sapphire crystal. The look is quite frankly mesmerizing, and it has completely rejuvenated the Carrera line. This harmonious blend of vintage tribute, contemporary elegance, and novelty truly embody the spirit for which TAG Heuer is renowned. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph is $6,650 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. The post TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Some Apr 10, 2024

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....

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The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo Saga Daybreak Apr 10, 2024

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...

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Piaget Celebrates 150 Years with an Ultra-Thin Tourbillon and a Pair of Polo Dates Worn & Wound
Piaget Celebrates 150 Years Apr 10, 2024

Piaget Celebrates 150 Years with an Ultra-Thin Tourbillon and a Pair of Polo Dates

Piaget is having a major moment in the watch industry right now. Its core design language-with bold aesthetics and a distinctly 1970s flair-is very en vogue, and it’s celebrating a milestone anniversary: 150 years. The brand kicked off the year with the Polo 79, a thoroughly modern interpretation of its very first Polo from 1979. Now, we get another extension of the beloved Polo line in the form of a pair of Polo dates and a new Altiplano that puts Piaget’s proficiency in the realm of ultra-thin calibers on full display. The Polo is a collection that strikes that perfect balance of utility and style. As the name suggests, its roots trace back to the sport, and the original hails from the peak era of luxury sport watches. However, from the onset, Piaget gave the model a sophisticated edge with the use of precious metal, yellow gold to be exact from the original 1979 model. In the four decades since its initial debut, Piaget has iterated on the Polo in many forms, including the introduction of a more traditional stainless steel variation with the Polo S in 2016.  With the two new additions to the Polo lineup (each limited to just 300 pieces), we get that classic stainless steel build along with the addition of a sporty rubber strap in place of the integrated bracelet. However, Piaget elevates each model with the incorporation of rose gold accents on the hands, hour markers, and date window. The 150th anniversary Polo Date comes in two sizes: 42mm and 36mm. I’m a r...

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Five Digital Watches for Spring Running and Fitness Worn & Wound
Casio n Apr 10, 2024

Five Digital Watches for Spring Running and Fitness

Spring has sprung, and the warmer weather is a great excuse and motivation to get outside and get moving. Of course, having the right timepiece for the right occasion is paramount. A digital watch comes easily to mind thanks to its simplicity, legibility, and functionality, and to that end, here are five digital watches we’d consider excellent fitness and running pals. All are available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is ready to answer any questions you have. You can even arrange a consultation at your convenience. Spring has sprung, and the warmer weather is a great excuse and motivation to get outside and get moving. Of course, having the right timepiece for the right occasion is paramount. A digital watch comes easily to mind thanks to its simplicity, legibility, and functionality, and to that end, here are five digital watches we’d consider excellent fitness and running pals. All are available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is ready to answer any questions you have. You can even arrange a consultation at your convenience. The post Five Digital Watches for Spring Running and Fitness appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Hublot Introduces a Trio of New Big Bang Unico Chronographs for Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Hublot Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces a Trio of New Big Bang Unico Chronographs for Watches & Wonders

If I were asked to pick the quintessential Hublot watch, the choice would be easy. It’s the Big Bang Unico. Just about every watch brand has a model that can be pointed to as a sort of platonic ideal. That watch tells you pretty much everything you need to know about the core of a brand. For Hublot, it’s the Big Bang Unico, and Hublot knows it. The Big Bang Unico is to Hublot what the 458 was to Ferrari, a pure distillation of the brands’ essence into something that you can (mostly) drive in the real world. The Big Bang Unico Ceramic, well that’s more like a 458 Speciale - mostly the same thing, but with a little extra oomph. For Watches & Wonders this year, Hublot is continuing to iterate on the tried and true 42mm flyback chronograph with the introduction of three new variants of the Big Bang Unico, each made primarily of ceramic. To kick us off, Hublot is introducing two new versions of the Big Bang Unico Ceramic, one in orange, and one in green, each in a limited edition of 250 pieces. These aren’t entirely new colors for the brand, we’ve seen green ceramic on the Big Bang Integral Chronograph, and Hublot produced an orange ceramic limited edition Big Bang Unico inspired by the Golden Gate Bridge through their San Francisco boutique a few years ago. That said, they are welcomed additions to the lineup, and will each have their fair share of fans. Both the Orange and the Green come equipped with color-matched rubber straps and feature black accents through...

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Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References Worn & Wound
Montblanc Expands Apr 10, 2024

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References

The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...

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Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case Worn & Wound
Hublot Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case

Today, Hublot has announced not one, but six new versions of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only, and here’s the kicker - this time they’re 38mm. When the first Hublot watch was launched by Carlo Crocco all the way back in 1980, it stood out. Totally different from anything else on the market, it supposedly took Crocco and his team at MDM Watches three years to develop the rubber strap for the first Hublot. The juxtaposition of a high-end gold case and an integrated rubber strap defined that first watch and “The Art of Fusion” would become the signature of a brand defined by experimentation. It was in that spirit that Hublot released the first Big Bang on a bracelet in 2020 (just a few weeks before the pandemic, as it turned out). I remember the prevailing sentiment at the time being slight surprise that a braceleted Big Bang didn’t already exist and a bemused “okay” before everyone got very distracted by the world shutting down. That first 42mm Big Bang Integral Chronograph was followed up by a 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only two years later. Those first two Integral models featured skeletonized sapphire dials and sporty red and black highlights. Like many large Hublot releases, they each felt decidedly masculine. Today’s new Big Bang Integrated Time Only releases are much more sedate, swapping sapphire skeleton dials for solid ones finished in somewhat more traditional polished blacks or sunray blues. With their more neutral designs and smaller case siz...

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[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGW002 Apr 9, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 series has, since its inception, been a collection that has veered toward the sporty. The outright sports models are commanding in their wrist presence for sure, but even the “standard” Evolution 9 watches have a robust quality to them that makes them ideal daily drivers. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko has introduced an all new branch of the Evolution 9 collection with a pair of watches they have specifically identified as being in the dress category: the SLGW002 and SLGW003, featuring the all new manually wound 9SA4 caliber.  The cases, crafted in rose gold for the SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium for the SLGW003, measure 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm tall. The lines of the case recall other watches in the Evolution 9 collection (these watches still have a ton of wrist presence thanks a wide stance and clearly executed facets) but are more refined overall. Also, like other Evolution 9 cases, these wear as if the center of gravity is lower, and the watch plants satisfyingly on the wrist, and especially in titanium it feels very ergonomic.  The big news here though is the new movement that allows for such a sleek rendition of the Evolution 9 principles. The 9SA4 caliber is effectively a hand wound version of the 9SA5, Grand Seiko’s next generation high beat rate movement with their proprietary dual impulse escapement. But Grand Seiko has done more than simply strip the 9SA5 of its winding rotor. Much of the gear train has...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On with the New Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Apr 9, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the New Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

Among the Tudor novelties this year is a watch that many enthusiasts and fans of the brand have been clamoring for for years: the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Since the moment the Black Bay 58 was released in 2019, the “put a GMT on it” crowd has loudly and frequently suggested that the travel friendly complication be added to the vintage inspired diver. Endless renderings shared across forums and social media over the years have suggested what the watch might look like, and now it’s here.  The new Black Bay 58 GMT is pretty much exactly what you would expect: the classic 58 form factor with a 39mm case, slightly domed black dial, gilt accents, and a classic burgundy and black “Coke” style 24 hour bezel. There’s an unframed date window at 3:00, and the watch is mounted to a three-link “rivet-style” bracelet or a rubber strap, both of which are mated to a T-fit clasp for easy on-the-fly adjustment.  The question comes up almost as soon as you realize what you’re looking at: how thick is it? After the Black Bay Pro was unveiled two years ago, the conversation focused on the watch’s proportions, with many insisting the 14mm thick case was just too chunky. For the 58 GMT, I don’t think anyone will realistically be able to make the same claims. The case measures a very reasonable 12.8mm tall, and has the same gentle curves as the 58 we’ve known for years.  On the wrist, the Black Bay 58 GMT wears incredibly well, which is what you’d expect given the clas...

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Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Case Material in the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Apr 9, 2024

Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Case Material in the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Limited Edition

Montblanc has just released the limited-edition 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. This latest release blends the spirit of mountain exploration, a tribute to the historical Minerva pocket watches and chronographs designed in the 1920s and 1930s for military purposes, with cutting-edge technology that has continued to define the Montblanc brand in recent releases.  The hallmark of this new model is its innovative case material, CARBO2, created through an eco-conscious process that transforms CO2 captured from bio-gas and mineral waste into a durable composite when mixed with carbon fiber. This pioneering material not only sets a new standard in sustainable luxury watchmaking but also boasts a striking dark hue that perfectly complements the adventurous essence of the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. The watch’s dial, inspired by glacial textures, is crafted using the gratté-boisé technique for an intricate effect that mirrors the complexity of ice crystals. The dial is complemented by white luminescent black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes, white luminescent rhodium-coated hours and minutes hands, a white luminescent dual time hand, and luminescent Northern and Southern hemispheres globes with blue Greenwich meridians. It is this set of small details that show the precision and focus of Montblanc with their luxury-end watches. In fact, one extremely intriguing feature is the side engraving of Mont Blanc Mountain, visible only to the wearer, which glows luminously i...

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NOMOS Marks their Watches & Wonders Debut with an Affordable Limited Edition Tangente Worn & Wound
Nomos Marks their Watches & Apr 9, 2024

NOMOS Marks their Watches & Wonders Debut with an Affordable Limited Edition Tangente

Of the brands making their Watches & Wonders debut in 2024, perhaps none will be more closely watched by Worn & Wound readers than NOMOS, long a favorite in the affordable independent space. After several years away from the international trade show scene following the demise of Baselworld, Nomos is back this year making their first trip to the Palexpo, and featuring a fun spin on a classic with new limited edition takes on the Tangente 38 Date. With eye-catching color palettes–and equally eye-catching German names like “Flamingopink,” “Lemonbiscuit,” and “Sportbunt”–the new Tangente 38 Date models combine fan favorite design with an array of new colors the brand hopes will give wearers a chance to better express themselves through their watch. With a staggering 31 different colors, there are plenty of options for the watch enthusiast who wants something a little different from what you might typically see in the watch world.  But what might be most eye-catching is the price: Unlike many of the limited edition watches being unveiled this week, the new NOMOS Tangente 38 Dates are genuinely affordable, and actually cheaper than the standard model. The regular run Tangente 38 Date can be found on the NOMOS website for $2,780. The limited edition watches will sell for $2,310, a move NOMOS sees as an investment in brand accessibility. The LE Tangente 38 Date is still chronometer tested, still has a sapphire crystal and a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, an...

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IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Apr 9, 2024

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence.  The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...

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The Hublot MP-11 Gets a New “Water Blue” Sapphire Treatment Worn & Wound
Hublot MP-11 Gets Apr 9, 2024

The Hublot MP-11 Gets a New “Water Blue” Sapphire Treatment

Watches & Wonders 2024 is here, and with it comes another addition to Hublot’s expanding lineup of colorful sapphire-cased watches. These vibrantly hued sapphire cases have become a bit of a staple for Hublot in the last few years, and I am here for it. As someone whose preferences typically skew towards the sensible and sedate, you might be surprised to learn that, in staunch defiance of my typical taste and common sense, Hublot’s experiments have produced some of my favorite recent watches. I’m a big believer in fun watches and, for all the flack that gets sent Hublot’s way, it’s impossible to deny the smile that creeps across your face when you strap on a giant purple sapphire tourbillon. Today’s addition to the brightly colored lineup is a new limited version of the Big Bang MP-11. The MP-11 was first introduced six years ago (back when Baselworld was still a thing) and is no stranger to transparency. Over the years, the MP-11 has seen releases in clear sapphire, dark blue sapphire, and green SAXEM. This new release brings a different character to the familiar piece, with a brand new icy glacier blue sapphire case and matching rubber strap, complemented by titanium hardware, bezel screws, and crown. The new color, which Hublot is calling ‘Water Blue Sapphire’ and releasing in a limited edition of just 50, is the result of a new chemical formula, and results in a color that seems to change based on the light around the watch from a pale blue to an ocean-...

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