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Universal Genève Apr 8, 2026

Universal Geneve is Back - Here’s the New Polerouter

While the watch industry braces for Watches & Wonders next week and anticipates a flurry of new releases to discuss that will take us through the next several months of watch discourse, today is actually the day that many collectors and enthusiasts have been waiting for for years: the debut of new watches from Universal Geneve. When it was announced that the brand would be formally relaunched by Georges Kern back in December of 2023, speculation began immediately as to what we would eventually see. Little tidbits have come out in dribs and drabs over the last two years, but today the watch community finally gets a look at what Universal Geneve will be in the modern era, at least to start.  A few things are very apparent from the outset. This is a big swing on the part of Kern and others steering the ship at Universal. They could have gone small, and introduced a one or two references to reintroduce the brand to the community slowly, but instead they’ve come out o the gate with nearly 40 SKUs, with prices ranging from a relatively modest $14,000 all the way up to $320,000 for an elaborate jewelry focused Cabriolet (and that’s the only elaborate, jewelry focused piece). The other thing that’s clear is that the launch feels focused on the Polerouter, a Gerald Genta design that is likely the most well known watch under the broader Universal Geneve banner. It got the reference book treatment a few years back, and, once upon a time, was one of the most frequently recommen...

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Hamilton Fontainebleau “Day ‘N Date” Apr 7, 2026

The Hamilton Fontainebleau “Day ‘N Date” 6004: The Potential Catalyst for an Innovative Case Design Renaissance

I feel that the contemporary watch market has a noticeable lack of fun, exciting, and unique watch case designs. Brands have put a major emphasis on dials made from rare materials or composed of intricate designs recently, but very few companies have put time into producing cases that offer a special experience for the wearer. Round and tank-styled timepieces are, and will forever be, the norm within the watch industry. However, this gap in the modern market gives collectors a chance to look back into vintage catalogs to familiarize themselves with fads and stylistic ventures of previous horological eras. With this in mind, I’d like to take a trip back to 1968 and examine the creation of the Hamilton Fontainebleau series, specifically the 6004 “Day ‘N Date” reference, to exhibit just how innovative case design can truly be. It’s typically an overlooked piece of the design formula, but when a watch features a case profile unlike any other, it certainly stands out among the pack. A Brief History of Fontainebleau and the 6004 In 1966, the patents for Hamilton designer Ulrich Nydegger’s new case were published. A couple of years later, the first few Fontainebleau models hit the market and garnered a decent amount of popularity. It wasn’t until 1969’s Fontainebleau Chrono-Matic chronograph, however, that the line would see a substantial amount of press and recognition for its innovative design. The collectibility of the Chrono-Matic model continues to increase o...

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Ressence Debuts Apr 7, 2026

Ressence Debuts the Type 11, with the All New In-House RW-01 Movement

For as long as we’ve talked about Ressence, part of the discussion has always been about how clever they are for producing such an ingenious and unique system for time telling, all built on top of a standard, off-the-shelf ETA movement. Their patented ROCS module, which displays the time via a series of rotating discs rather than traditional hands, is a complicated piece of engineering that has always lived alongside a caliber that is rather ordinary. For me, and many others, this was always part of the charm of a Ressence watch, and underscored the idea that watchmaking is a broad discipline and that with some creativity even a simple ETA movement can be turned into something extraordinary.  That changes a little today with the introduction of the Ressence Type 11, featuring the all new RW-01 movement, the first in-house designed Ressence movement. Designed specifically to power the ROCS, the RW-01 is an integrated, automatic caliber that appears to be an improvement in just about every way over previous movements found in Ressence watches.  First and perhaps most notably, this movement has a 60 hour power reserve, which can be monitored on the dial via ceramic micro balls. For years, Ressence watches have featured power reserves that topped out at slightly less than the ETA movements they were based on due to the demands of running the ROCS module. But the RW-01 was designed from the ground up to work with ROCS, eliminating many of the compromises made with previous ...

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Wolbrook Apr 6, 2026

Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber

I’d like to think I am a bit of a movement nerd. Not in the sense of knowing all of the technical attributes (actually, I wish I knew more there), but rather about what movements are on the market from the major suppliers. Hand me a watch, even with a complication, and I can probably tell you what movement it has in a matter of seconds (assuming it’s mechanical) by the positioning of the hands, complications, rotor bearing, etc. So, last fall, when I was handed a prototype of a new chronograph by Wolbrook and, upon seeing the dial, realized I had no idea what movement it had, my interest was piqued. The watch was the Wolbrook Jetflyer, which I have since had the opportunity to spend more time with. An extension of the French brand’s proven line of tool dive watches based on vintage models, the Jetflyer is their first foray into mechanical chronographs. As the name suggests, the Jetflyer is not meant as a “dive” chronograph, but rather as a pilot’s, though that’s largely semantics, as there are a lot of overlaps in design language (and the WR is 100m). I’ll get back to the particulars of the design, because what really stands out is the movement. $845 Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Case Stainless Steel Movement Jeambrun PS 6402 Dial Mattte Black Lume X1 Super-Luminova Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Leather or Bracelet Water Resistance 100m Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 14.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw-d...

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Apr 6, 2026

How A Dive Bezel Works

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Apr 6, 2026

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Watch, the Thundergraph Khumbu

Last week, Albishorn unveiled the latest in their ongoing series of “Imaginary Vintage” watches, the Thundergraph Kumbu. Founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet nearly two years ago, Albishorn is a high concept indie focused on a very specific strain of vintage watch inspiration. The watches that make up the Albishorn collection not only take their design cues from vintage watches, they are conceived as that never existed, but could have, and provide, as Chaumontet puts it, “a missing link” between the past and present. That centers each new watch on the idea of storytelling, and Albishorn has created elaborate imaginary backstories for each of their watches released to this point. (You can find our previous coverage of the brand here). The new watch from Albishorn, the Thundergraph Khumbu, is a new take on last year’s Thundergraph Himalaya, a chronograph conceived for alpine exploration. The idea here essentially was that on a climb, an alpinist would need easy legibility and the benefit of a rotating bezel to time ascent phases. The oversized crown and bezel, and monopusher chronograph execution, are also intended as design nods that would benefit a climber in difficult terrain (of course, these are straightforward tool watch design codes that could be applied to any number of situations – but that’s where the storytelling piece kicks in).  For the new Thundergraph Khumbu, Albishorn has introduced a green dial, which the brand says is inspired by the landscapes ...

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Accutron Apr 4, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: New Bags from Peak Design, a Documentary on a Brooklyn Based Calligraphy Artist, and a Baltic Review from the Archives

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Four New Bags from Peak Design  Peak Design recently funded their latest Kickstarter campaign for four new travel bags, though it might be more accurate to say they obliterated their initial goal of $100,000, as over $2 million has been raised to this point. Peak Design is one of our favorite bag and accessory brands, and their latest offerings are all travel oriented, and offer something for everyone. There’s the Travel Backpack 2-in-1, the Travel Crossbody 3L, the Travel Backpack 20L, and the Travel Weekender 25L. Operating under the philosophy that no two trips are the same, Peak has created four separate carry solutions for specific travel circumstances, rather than trying to create a catch-all, one bag for everything solution that might make a ton of compromises. You can learn more about the new bags at their Kickstarter page right here. The Fine Line Documentary  If you came to our recent event with Accutron and Esterbrook, you may have met Mohammed, aka @thebrooklynscribe, a calligraphy artist based in, you guessed it, Brooklyn. It just so happens that only days after our event, a new short documentary on Mohammed premired on YouTube. You can watch The Fine ...

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Accutron Esterbrook Apr 3, 2026

Recap: An Analog Evening with Accutron, Esterbrook, and The Brooklyn Scribe at the Windup Watch Shop Showroom

Last Thursday evening, the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom played host to a packed house for a special event celebrating the intersection of watchmaking and writing instruments, with Accutron and Esterbrook taking center stage. Envisioned as an intimate opportunity to go hands-on with Accutron’s latest Spaceview 314 collection, the event quickly evolved into a lively, tactile experience that blended horology, craftsmanship, and a shared appreciation for design heritage. Guests filtered in throughout the evening, filling the space with energy as conversations sparked over Accutron’s open-work dials, Tuning Fork technology, and the parallels between both timekeeping and writing instruments. Accutron’s team was on hand to walk attendees through the technical and aesthetic nuances of the Spaceview 314, offering a closer look at the brand’s continued evolution of its Tuning Fork movement technology. American writing instrument maker, Esterbrook, unveiled a new fountain pen inspired by Accutron’s signature Spaceview design language, creating a compelling collab between the two brands-one rooted in time, the other in communication, but both strong examples of personal expression. But what truly elevated the evening was the addition of live, custom calligraphy by The Brooklyn Scribe. Throughout the night, guests were invited to commission personalized pieces, turning names, phrases, and moments into beautifully rendered works of art. The presence of hand letter...

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Apr 3, 2026

Introducing the Coriolis Pointer Date by OraOrea

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Maen Apr 3, 2026

Hands-On: Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin

People are always asking us, “Why are watch reviews always so positive?” It’s a fair question, and definitely a nicer way of saying what I think is actually underneath it, which is “Are you a shill?” While I certainly wouldn’t dream of speaking for any website other than this one, I can say that at Worn & Wound, we review watches that are of interest to us, that we’re likely pre-disposed to liking. Positive reviews come from our enthusiasm not just for a specific watch, but for watches in general. We want to see what’s best in the hobby, and seek to elevate brands and watches that we think are doing interesting work, and that our readers will find of interest. I’d argue that’s not the posture of the average anonymous Instagram commenter, who might be more inclined to tear something down than lift it up.  But sometimes a watch comes across our desk from a brand we like that just doesn’t work, or that seemed more interesting in renders sent via email or DM than in the metal. And that brings us to the Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin, a watch that on its surface seems like something that I should be really into, but leaves me a little cold when I hold it in hand and strap it on my wrist.  I’ll be upfront here and say at the outset that this is not a bad watch, objectively speaking. It’s not a failure in execution, or the product of shoddy workmanship. I think Maen probably wound up exactly where they wanted to be with the Grand Tonneau, and like other...

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Apr 2, 2026

Checking in with the Worn & Wound Community: Our Core Values and Commitments

Hi, how’s everyone doing? We hope your 2026 is off to a great start. It’s already been an incredibly busy year for the Worn & Wound team and the watch industry as a whole. Between new releases on the blog, hosting the Dallas Windup Watch Fair, and all the new releases dropping in our shop, we’ve hit the ground running. Like many of you, we are currently gearing up for an exciting Watches & Wonders, and with a packed calendar of events and some big projects in the works, the rest of the year is shaping up to be one of our most active yet. However, alongside the excitement of the watch community, the first part of this year has also been a period of significant turmoil globally. In the professional world, there is often a desire to “avoid politics” and stay focused strictly on business. But when our news feeds are filled with instability, uncertainty, and, sadly, tragedy, the conversation shifts. Over the past several months, our team has found itself caught in these discussions. In times like these, we find ourselves relying more than ever on the strength of our community. We’ve realized that as Worn & Wound grows, we have both a responsibility and a desire to be a genuine source for good. While we began as a place to celebrate the technical and the aesthetic, we have grown into a global community, and we believe that community should stand for more than just the products we collect. So, the Worn & Wound team has gotten together and solidified how we want to act...

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Straum Apr 2, 2026

Titanium and Fresh Colorways Collide as Straum Expands Its Jan Mayen Arctic Collection with a New Limited Edition Capsule and Permanent Pieces

Today, two of Straum’s core concepts come alive in a new twist on the Jan Mayen Arctic collection, now in titanium for the first time in addition to stainless steel. The four original colors, in both titanium and stainless steel, now become part of the brand’s permanent catalog. Plus, there’s the debut of an entirely new dial colorway. Last year, we saw the expansion of the brand’s offerings with the classic Jan Mayen design rendered in lightweight titanium as well as the unveiling of four thoughtful and stunning Arctic dials. By now, you probably well know I’m a sucker for a mesmerizing dial design, especially one with a story and deeper meaning behind it. The brand’s limited edition capsules of Arctic dials tick all those boxes. The inspiration draws from Straum’s Norwegian roots with a subtle and abstract interpretation of the country’s natural beauty through intentional use of texture and color to elicit the feeling of the landscape rather than something too literal. We’ve previously seen four editions, each handsome in their own right: one reflecting the bold hues of the Aurora sky; one called Alpine Glow, fading from the crisp blue frost of the mountains fading to a light pink sunset; Meltwater Teal, which quite literally mimics a waterfall cascading down the dial thanks to the perfect execution of ombre white to teal; and lastly, the most understated among the bunch called Tundra Brown with a bronze tone. In addition to a new metal – swapping tit...

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Apr 2, 2026

If You Missed Out on One of the Coolest Releases at British Watchmakers’ Day, Apiar Has You Covered with the Gen1.1 Night Tube

Whenever I go to a watch event, whether that’s a local meetup, Watches & Wonders, or one of our own Windup fairs, my brain does that thing where upon leaving, I’m trying to figure out the MVP from that event. Not that the watches are in competition with one another – it’s just how I organize my thoughts, figuring out what I liked the most. Coming out of British Watchmakers’ Day last month, the clear MVP for me was the extremely limited Apiar Gen1.1 Underground. I reviewed an early version of this watch last year and was really impressed, and this limited edition (just three pieces!) had a London Underground inspired dial made by The Dial Artist himself that really won me over. I’m a bit of a public transportation nerd so this one called out to me in a strong way, and I admit that I left London last month with a twinge of regret that I didn’t pull the trigger on this watch when I had the chance. Luckily for at least some of us (but not me, I’m tapped out, really) Apiar has followed up the Gen1.1 Underground with a predictable but very welcome sequel, the Gen1.1 Night Tube. As you can probably gather from the name of the watch and the photos, this is effectively a blacked out version of the Underground, because people, of course, ride the subway at all hours of the night in London. This marks the first time Apiar has used a DLC coating on one of their watch cases. Aesthetically, it really shifts the focus to the dial, which I think takes on a brighter quality...

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Citizen ATTESA Shades Apr 1, 2026

Review: Citizen ATTESA Shades of Red Super Titanium

Superlatives are thrown around often in watch conversations. We all enjoy videos like “the best” dive watches under $1000. When chatting with our friends we love to declare bracelets to be the most comfortable and dials to be the easiest to read. But if we are being honest with ourselves, that exaggerated language is often used to capture our fleeting excitement about great (though not necessarily the best) watches before moving onto the next shiny thing. When exaggerated language fueled by initial infatuation seeps into reviews and forums, it has a tendency to leave fellow enthusiasts feeling misled when they accept it as truth and hit the buy button only to be let down by reality. I bring this up because, after having been burned myself, honesty and grounded language are top priorities when I sit down to write a review. But in full disclosure, I found myself smitten as soon as I unboxed the Limited Edition ATTESA Shades of Red Super Titanium from Citizen. It wasn’t until I found myself questioning design choices after a few days of wear that I finally felt ready to put pen to paper without that honeymoon phase bias. Unsurprisingly from the photos of this watch that are stunning yet don’t fully capture its depth, my first jottings focused on the dial.  The Watch On March 3rd a total lunar eclipse was visible across all of Japan, an event Citizen commemorated with two “Shades of Red” watches inspired by the red moon visible during totality. The watch that has ...

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Apr 1, 2026

Heinrich Continues to Expand their Radiance Line with the “Wave”

Heinrich, the German brand that as of late has specialized in elaborate, machine finished dials in an array of bright colors (all set inside impeccably machined and finished cases) has just released the latest in their ongoing Radiance collection. The Guilloche Wave follows the Guilloche Swirl and the original Radiance, and continues to carve out the brand’s dress watch catalog. This is a somewhat unlikely turn for Heinrich, a brand that prior to the Radiance was primarily known for their modern tool watches. It’s been interesting to see how they’ve adapted easily to current trends for classical finishing with a contemporary twist, and creative use of materials, both design tenets that have always been readily observable under the surface at Heinrich, but seem to have found a moment in these last few years.  If you’re familiar with recent versions of the Radiance, the new Guilloche Wave will not exactly appear groundbreaking, but it does offer a new option for enthusiasts who either missed out on prior editions or simply want a dial with a more traditional guilloche execution. The Guilloche Wave has, you guessed it, a wave-like guilloche pattern emanating from the dial’s center. It’s interrupted by a lightly textured and rather small subsidiary seconds register at 6:00, and ends at a chapter ring surrounding the dial’s perimeter. The hour markers on these watches are not discussed enough – they’re applied and have a distinctive series of vertical lines r...

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Tudor England Mar 31, 2026

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: Henry VIII and the Birth of Royal Time

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. During Henry VIII’s reign (1509–1547), portable watches as we know them today had yet to emerge in significant numbers. Timekeeping was dominated by grand and stationary mechanisms, with tower clocks or ornate table pieces, serving both practical and symbolic purposes as a show of wealth and status. Watches, if present at all, were nascent and extremely rare. The first clocks and watches were expensive luxuries and only in the reach of royalty and landed gentry. There was, however, a sufficient demand for these items in the Tudor royal court which spread to a prosperous London. The beginnings of the horological industry were probably first initiated by King Henry VIII. During this period there was somewhat of a technical revolution, starting with the invention of the printing press which changed the way people received information. This filtered through to the court where there was a revoluti...

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Vacheron Constantin Mar 31, 2026

Baltic Introduces the Heures du Monde Worldtimer, with Three Stone Dial Options

When we last checked in on Baltic, they were retiring one of their most popular lines, at least for the time being, with a diamond set version of their MR dress watch. It felt like an appropriate send off for the MR, which I think will be remembered as the release that put the watch world on notice that Baltic was capable of executing in categories other than purely sporty vintage inspired designs. The fact that the last MR prominently features Moissanite stones really reflects the path Baltic finds themselves on now, stretching well beyond what was frankly a somewhat generic playbook in the early days.  Their latest collection, the Heures du Monde, is a worldtimer that further reinforces that idea. This is a tribute, of sorts, to the work of Louis Cottier, the Swiss watchmaker who effectively invented the modern worldtimer, creating movements for Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and others. His worldtimers are of course highly sought after by high end vintage collectors not just for their aesthetic beauty, but their historical significance. The principle behind Cottier’s movements, that the wearer should see the time in every timezone at once, at a glance, via rotating time zone and 24 hour scales, has become the predominant method for executing worldtime watches and is considered the standard in the watch industry.  For the Heures du Monde, Baltic has modified a Soprod C125 caliber by removing the date and replacing the GMT hand usually found with that movement w...

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Holthinrichs Begins their Tenth Anniversary Mar 30, 2026

Holthinrichs Begins their Tenth Anniversary Celebration with a Pair of Limited Editions in the LAB Series

It’s hard to believe, but Holthinrichs celebrates their tenth anniversary this year. It was ten years ago when brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs was completing his graduation project in architecture, that soon-to-be client found him online and requested a watch commission for his upcoming wedding. The watch Michiel would make eventually became the first production Holthinrichs, the Ornament 1, and the brand was off to the races.  That first watch was powered by a Peseux 7001, one of the most tried and true manually wound calibers ever made. It’s a true workhorse and has been adopted by brands large and small for years, and someday when the history of the microbrand is written, the Peseux 7001 will almost certainly have its own dedicated chapter. Its calling card, in addition to its slender profile which allows for great flexibility in design, is the placement of a small seconds hand at the 6:00 position, a design element that serves as the inspiration for the new Signature LAB 1.S, one of two limited editions launched this week to celebrate ten years of Holthinrichs Watches.  The Signature LAB 1.S follows last year’s Ornament LAB 1.24, which remains one of the most exciting watches I’ve ever reviewed for the website. There are a lot of things about that watch that are special, but chief among them is the beautiful 3D printed titanium case. Holthinrichs has been a real leader in 3D printing within the watch industry over the last decade, and this case design refl...

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Mar 30, 2026

How to Choose the Perfect Watch Strap

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Mar 30, 2026

Introducing the Dennison ALD Dual Time “Shades” Collection

At the risk of sounding jaded, it’s all too easy to split our attention these days; scrolling on our phone while watching YouTube, texting while walking, and jabbing at huge screens in the car while driving. But sometimes dividing your focus can lead to something new and daring-at least, that’s what British-American watch revivalists Dennison have done with their Dual Time collection.  Built on the concept of splitting the dial in half horizontally, each Dual Time model shows two dials, each with their own set of hands. The result is striking, especially paired with the stone dials in vibrant colors that the ALD collection-of which the Dual Time is a subcollection-is known for. Now, for the first time ever, Dennison has added indices to their Dual Time design, with their new “Shades” models.  Like other Dual Time models, the Shades variants present two faces. Here, they are split into two dial colors each, with a fluid finish that Dennison says is an “exploration of light, perception, and restraint”. Basically, as the watch is moved, light plays off the opposing faces and changes the shades of the dial. It’s an alluring visual and one that is furthered by subtle texturing and the clever “split” of the dials on each model, giving both faces a slightly different reaction to light in contrast to each other. Three colorways are available: green, blue, and brown, with varying highlights and shadows that appear and vanish as the watch is positioned diff...

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Hamilton Some Weird Digital Watches Mar 27, 2026

eBay Finds: A Gorgeous Vintage Hamilton, Some Weird Digital Watches, Plus a Few Killer Chronographs

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster Chronograph  Ok, got a great one to start this week, a gorgeous vintage Omega Seamaster chronograph. This one dates to 1968 from the serial number on the movement. It has a tonneau style steel case that is 38mm wide, and is unpolished with nice crisp edges and the original brushed finish. Even the caseback Hippocampus medallion looks sharp. The original high dome acrylic crystal is in good shape, can’t see any cracks although it could use a polish. It is signed on the underside with the Omega logo as it should be. The reverse-panda three register dial is black with white subdials, and it looks to be perfect and original. White stick hands with lume and an orange sweep chono hand with black subdial hands complete the look. The large winding crown is also signed. This gem is powered by the famous and robust Omega caliber 861 movement, the same one used in the second generation of Omega Speedmasters. The movement is clean and runs and works well per the seller. The watch comes on the original bracelet, signed and in great shape. This watch is fabulous, and rare to see at auction. View auction here Dot Matrix Seiko Digital Watch  This one was too cool to pass up,...

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Junghans Mar 27, 2026

A History and Guide to Junghans

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Omega s New Constellation Observatory Mar 27, 2026

Omega’s New Constellation Observatory Collection Debuts, with a First for a Certified Chronometer

Omega pleased a lot of dress watch and vintage fans this week when they launched the new Constellation Observatory collection at their Swiss headquarters. Zach Weiss is on the ground in Bielle even as we speak getting hands-on with the new watches, and he’ll have a full hands on report with his own photography coming soon. For now, a quick rundown of the new collection, and why it’s a fairly major play for the brand.  The Constellation is a historic Omega collection that has changed a lot through the years, always remaining flexible with the current styles and trends of the day. This collection, though, is a direct shot at the hearts and minds of Omega purists, as its effectively a recreation of the original 1950s Constellation in its broad strokes. The cases and dials will be familiar to anyone who has collected or admired original Constellations, with highly angular cases and distinctive dogleg lug design.  That said, these are not one to one recreations of watches from the 1950s. The cases, on paper at least, are rather large for what most would agree is a riff on a classic dress watch. The diameter is 39.4mm, and case height is 12.23mm. The lug to lug span comes in at 47.2mm. So, not small by any means, but we’ll look forward to Zach’s impressions of how they actually wear soon enough.  As is typical with Omega these days, we have a wide variety of case material and dial options available. We get all three gold alloys that Omega likes to deploy (Sedna, Canop...

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Mar 26, 2026

Photo Report: Recapping BLADE Show Texas

Just one week after our second Windup Watch Fair in Dallas, I returned to the Lone Star State for my first-ever BLADE Show Texas. BLADE Show Texas marks the start of the Blade Show trilogy, held annually in Fort Worth, Texas, before the show travels to Atlanta in June, and ends the season with BLADE Show West in Salt Lake City in October. In typical fashion, I hit the ground running after landing in Dallas, only pausing briefly to drop my luggage off at the hotel before heading to the show venue. After picking up my pass, I spent a bit of time catching up with Rikki and Sam (better known as Capt.Rikki and Raven_the_pirate on Instagram). They were kind enough to let me know about a community barbecue happening later that night, which I couldn’t pass up. While not officially part of the show, these after-hours events are how I’ve managed to meet so many stellar people in this community. After a hearty helping of Texas Barbeque and some good times, we called it an early night, excited for the show to officially start the next day. Heading into the venue for day one, I was absolutely blown away by just how many people had already lined up, even though the show wouldn’t open for a few more hours. I know there’s always some die hard fans who will do so, but seeing several hundred people already in line at 8am was a bit unexpected for this show. I happened to overhear someone mention that they had been in line since 3 AM on Thursday, vying for a few very specific and rare...

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Longines HydroConquest When we talk Mar 26, 2026

Hands-On Impressions of the Updated Longines HydroConquest

When we talk about Longines on the website, we usually do so in the context of their vintage reissues and vintage inspired watches. They’ve carved out a niche for themselves in this particular area that is basically unrivaled among the big Swiss brands. From the Legend Diver onwards, they’ve done a remarkable job of raiding the archives and bringing back both popular and oddball references of historical significance. Similarly, their most important contemporary line, the Spirit Collection, is itself heavily influenced by the aesthetics and design codes of midcentury watches.  That isn’t to say that Longines has neglected more contemporary designs. They’ve dipped into ultra-modern territory (with a great deal of success) pretty recently with bold updates to the Ultra-Chron, for example. But I think it’s fair to say that they aren’t necessarily the brand you look to if you’re thinking about picking up a solid, modern dive watch. It’s just not their lane, and some of their competitors have really nailed this genre down pretty hard.  So this is the framework for a big relaunch this Spring for the HydroConquest, a line that has already gone through a handful of redesigns and shuffling over the years, most recently becoming a vehicle for a GMT complication in a case size that frankly strains even the most burly of wrists. There’s never really been anything wrong with the HydroConquest, per se, but for a variety of reasons it’s not usually mentioned in the s...

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Seiko Mar 25, 2026

Doxa Introduces the SUB 200 II Diver

Since its launch in 2019, the Doxa SUB 200 has been one of my favorite value oriented dive watches to recommend. When it debuted, it was under $1,000 and really stood out in a crowd of vintage inspired divers. It was a particularly compelling option for enthusiasts who were after something affordable and loaded with a bit of history and was definitely not a Seiko. They were also getting that vintage appropriate sizing right before the pendulum swung all the way back toward watches under 40mm – the SUB 200 measures 42mm but wears significantly smaller thanks to the short lug profile. It was and is a great wearing, classically styled dive watch from a truly important dive watch brand.  Doxa has just refreshed the SUB 200 and the watch that was revealed this week reflects a lot of what’s going on the industry at the moment, while also appearing to serve as a worthy heir (and complement) to the existing SUB 200. The new SUB 200 II sees Doxa making some unexpected refinements to the case and also offering the watch in a new suite of colorways and a novel case treatment. Taken together, it’s a significantly more contemporary execution of something we’ve all come to associate with pure vintage nostalgia.  We’ll start with the case, which now measures 44mm in diameter. I did a bit of a double take when I saw that particular spec – we’re deep in the era of brands downsizing their iconic sports watches to accommodate the current appetite for sleeker, small-to-medium ...

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Citizen Introduces Mar 25, 2026

Citizen Introduces the Photon, a Limited Edition Celebrating 50 Years of Eco-Drive

I wonder how many times the words “It’s an anniversary year for…” have been written on this website? It probably wouldn’t be that hard to figure out, but frankly I have too many articles about anniversaries to write to devote even a small amount of time to this particular task. Case in point, the latest from Citizen, which celebrates not the anniversary of the brand itself, but rather a piece of technology that they have pioneered and has in many ways come to define them for both casual watch consumers and hardcore enthusiasts alike. That’s right folks, Eco-Drive turns 50 this year, and I think you’ll agree that at the half century mark it’s looking as youthful and promising as ever, countering the conventional wisdom and advice from dermatologists everywhere to stay out of the sun.  The new watch is called the Photon, and when it hits retailers in the fall it will come in two versions: the BJ6560-53W in silver titanium and the BJ6569-59X in black coated titanium with a gold toned accent on the outside of the case. Both feature the same latticed dial made up of two metal dial plates that allow light to pass through and hit the Eco-Drive sensor. According to Citizen, the design is inspired by the famous “double slit experiment” that proves light can exhibit both wave and particle-like behaviors. I can already imagine 7th grade science teachers removing their watches in class to perform live demonstrations while simultaneously indoctrinating a new genera...

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Nomos Metro We live Mar 24, 2026

Behind the Curtain: A Conversation with Mark Braun, Designer of the Nomos Metro

We live in a (watch) world where brand names reign supreme and terms like “in-house” carry a lot of weight. However, I find it much more interesting when a watchmaker is willing to peel back the curtain and highlight the great minds and hands that go into crafting the watches we love. Recently, Nomos gave us one of those unique opportunities to sit down with the man behind the design of one of its core collections: the Metro. The Metro first came into the Nomos catalog back in 2014. At the time, it made waves thanks to its debut of the brand’s proprietary swing escapement system, which was developed over seven years with the Fraunhofer Institute and TU Dresden. The structure notably features a tempered blue balance spring and offers superior precision, efficiency, and compactness with a thickness of approximately 3.2mm, which perfectly lends itself to Nomos’ sleek and effortless timepieces. While perhaps considered secondary at its initial introduction, the form of the new collection was given just as much attention as the function. In typical Nomos fashion, the caliber was housed in a modern and minimalist design echoing the tenets of German watchmaking but with a twist. This creation was the brainchild of industrial designer Mark Braun. The project marks Braun’s first and only foray into the watch space. The artist has worked in nearly every medium under the sun from furniture to kitchenware and birdhouses to shaving kits, light fixtures, jewelry, calligraphy p...

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Christopher Ward Junghans Mar 24, 2026

[VIDEO] Windup Watch Fair Dallas Recap: Watches, BBQ, and Texas-Sized Enthusiasm

Everything’s bigger in Texas-and that fact continues to ring true for the Windup Watch Fair Dallas. Returning for its second year and expanding into a full three-day event, the Fair once again took over the Hickory Street Annex, transforming the historic industrial space into a buzzing hub of watches, conversation, and community. With more than 40 brands in attendance, the show floor was packed with everything from established Lead Sponsors like Christopher Ward, Junghans, and Oris to rising independents, alongside a strong showing Miyota, our Official Movement Sponsor, and from Texas-based brands gathered together in our “Texas Roundup” area, deep in the heart of Windup. As always, the show delivered what Windup does best: a hands-on, approachable environment where enthusiasts and newcomers alike could try on watches, meet the people behind the brand, and share in the collective enthusiasm that defines the weekend. But as much as Windup is about watches, Dallas proved once again that it was just as much about the experience. Across the weekend, attendees found plenty to do beyond the booths-whether that meant taking in live art from Sunflowerman, snagging a swig at the Bruichladdich bar, learning about Miyota mechanical movements, or spending time in the Accutron Lounge diving into Tuning Fork and Electrostatic tech. It all added up to the kind of layered, come-as-you-are atmosphere that has become the hallmark of the Fair, which Texas wears well.   Came for th...

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Isotope Osaka Cloisonné Enamel Mar 24, 2026

Finally, a Japanese Manhole Inspired Watch with a Cloisonné Enamel Dial

Having none myself, I’m always a bit impressed when it comes to those who have artistic talent – and that goes doubly for those who can appreciate the everyday beauty around them. This is especially true when those two virtues combine to form a beautiful little timepiece, like the Altmann × Isotope Osaka Cloisonné Enamel, a new collaboration between English watchmaker Isotope and designer, illustrator, and typographer Björn Altmann. The first, and perhaps only, thing you will notice about this watch is its dial, which is based on a municipal manhole cover featuring Osaka Castle. Now, you may be asking yourself, why Japanese manhole covers? I can assure you that you are not alone in that. Apparently, after a Wikipedia deep dive, it is something of an urban art form and a show of civic pride throughout Japan. In fact, more than 15 million manhole covers across the country feature some sort of carved, imprinted, or painted design. This was a niche interest of Isotope founder José Miranda, which eventually led Miranda to Björn Altmann’s book Manhole Covers of the World. This, in turn, led to this collaboration you see before you today. The intricacy of the dial does not stop with its source material. The dial itself is made in grand feu cloisonné enamel, using fine silver wires and multiple rounds of firing to build out the design and color. The process took close to a year to develop, and in the end only five dials were successfully completed, which helps explain ...

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