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Dive Watches · Page 61

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber Worn & Wound
Jun 24, 2024

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber

French watchmaker Henry-Louis Belmont established Yema in 1948 and quickly became known for manufacturing ultra-capable tool watches. By 1954 their production reached 130,000 watches and by the mid 1960s they were selling over 400,000 watches annually in 55 countries. Their motto “Time of Heroes” became their official slogan, and their watches were particularly suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Today, Yema is experiencing a resurgence and is introducing a new modern interpretation of their iconic Skin Diver. The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is not just another pretty face. Beneath the beautiful dark grey dial beats their in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 movement (CMM.20). It is rated for accuracy at -3/+7 seconds a day, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is extra slim due to its micro-rotor. The watch measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug-to-lug, and only 10mm tall to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Despite being relatively thin, it is water-resistant to an impressive depth of 300 meters. Adding to its vintage styling is a dark grey, faded bezel insert covered by sapphire glass. Its lume pip, along with all the lume on the dial and markers, has that aged radium look, which complements the design very well. The watch comes mounted on a new slimmer Yema Scales bracelet, which integrates better with the Skin Diver’s slimmer profile. The screw-down case back offers a transparent view of the movement, featuring a black ALD (ato...

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54 Worn & Wound
Jun 21, 2024

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54

In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...

Introducing: A New Trio Of Black Lacquer-Dialed Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Watches Fratello
Jun 21, 2024

Introducing: A New Trio Of Black Lacquer-Dialed Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Watches

Omega has quietly introduced a trio of updated Seamaster Aqua Terra models to its catalog. These three new references cover the full size range in the Aqua Terra lineup, feature all the upgrades found in the Shades collection, and add a new micro-adjustment system for the bracelet. But whereas the Shades quintet had a lot […] Visit Introducing: A New Trio Of Black Lacquer-Dialed Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Watches to read the full article.

Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat Fratello
Jun 21, 2024

Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat

Doxa’s Sub 200T is a wonderful underwater companion and underlines the trend toward smaller tool watches. Having debuted just before the start of Watches and Wonders 2024, the Sub 200T was met with broadly positive acclaim. As a truly mid-sized option with a 39mm case diameter and slim profile, it rounds out Doxa’s cushion-cased offerings […] Visit Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS Fratello
Jun 20, 2024

Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS

Ulysse Nardin would not be the first brand I’d turn to when considering modern dive watches. But I must admit that the Diver Net OPS and the Diver X Skeleton OPS in this review immediately stood out when I saw the pictures online. Both watches feature a military-inspired camouflage look that I quite like, so […] Visit Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS to read the full article.

Introducing: A New Colorful Limited Edition Of The Nezumi Baleine Dive Watch Fratello
Jun 19, 2024

Introducing: A New Colorful Limited Edition Of The Nezumi Baleine Dive Watch

Nezumi has quite a few impressive tricks up its sleeve. Only a few weeks ago, I reviewed the brand’s Adventure Trio. It’s a series of watches that will help you with whatever challenge you encounter during your travels. With a GMT, a diver, and a field watch, Nezumi has you covered in any situation. The […] Visit Introducing: A New Colorful Limited Edition Of The Nezumi Baleine Dive Watch to read the full article.

Longines Conquest 38mm Review Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 19, 2024

Longines Conquest 38mm Review

Longines has just revamped its Conquest line of watches – the modern Conquest line – by injecting into it a new sense of color, and a not-so-novel, but nonetheless appreciated, approach to sizing. When it comes to color, the brand unveiled three pastel dial shades in its 34mm variants within the Conquest lineup. But other big news is the addition of a 38mm sizing where previously you were left only to be able to choose 41mm at the “large” end of the spectrum. While the eye-catching pastel dials in blue, pink, and light green certainly took much of the release spotlight around the new Conquests, they only come in 34mm sizing and I can’t help but think that the less flashy dials in the new 38mm format is the real show-stealer here. We say this all the time, but it’s becoming increasingly clear that 38mm is that sweet spot for watch diameters. More and more brands are dabbling in the 37-38mm range as well. I wrote about the Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (in my debut article here at Teddy no less) which clocks in at 37mm. Then we have the Tudor Black Bay 54, and of course the fan-favorite Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 just to name a few.  In short, 38mm is where it’s at, as is the simple time and date watch format in steel on a bracelet. Just look at how popular the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is as a bare bones steel sports watch. Okay, that watch has no date, but it does bear a visual resemblance to these new Conquest models. I could just as easily throw the Dat...

Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis Fratello
Jun 19, 2024

Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis

The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is perhaps Omega’s strongest contender for everyday luxury. In the realm once dominated by the Rolex OP, the Aqua Terra has become a go-to daily watch for the right reasons and can be quite the style chameleon. This time, the inspiration of Armand “Mondo” Deplantis and the Swedish national colors […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis to read the full article.

Oris Streamlines the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm SJX Watches
Jun 19, 2024

Oris Streamlines the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm

Oris has tweaked its popular dive watch resulting in the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm. The latest creation from the Holstein-based manufacturer gently reworks the original design, including shrinking the case to 38 mm and removing the date window while retaining the in-house movement. The cleaner look is matched with a green dial with a gradient finish that fades from metallic green to black on the dial’s periphery. Initial thoughts The Divers Sixty-Five is Oris’ bestseller and has been an experimental playground for the brand to iterate case sizes, materials, and dial colours, including a steel-and-bronze version Chinese watch magazine Ctime. The new 38 mm version illustrates this. Although it doesn’t look strikingly different from its predecessors at first glance, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the culmination the progressive development of the model. It combines the in-house Calibre 400 and 38 mm case size, along with the removal of the date window that watch enthusiasts will applaud. The green sunburst dial pops While the vintage-inspired aesthetic is somewhat generic (and green a common colour for dive watches), the new Divers Sixty-Five is a decent value proposition at US$3,900, especially considering the in-house automatic movement with an unusually long five-day power reserve. Vivid green Unlike past 38 mm models that were equipped with Sellita movements, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the first 38 mm model in the line to feature the brand’s proprietary ...

First Look – The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition, Micro-Rotor Power and Vintage Look Monochrome
Jun 18, 2024

First Look – The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition, Micro-Rotor Power and Vintage Look

French brand Yema keeps pushing the quality of its watches higher and higher, and the recently released updated and refined Superman Slim CMM.20, featuring a proprietary automatic micro-rotor movement, rightfully received overwhelmingly positive reviews. Today, the watchmaker from the Morteau region presents a new interpretation of the brand’s emblematic 1960s skin dive watch series, the […]

The Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver Orca Beaches On The Shores Of Fratello Fratello
Jun 17, 2024

The Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver Orca Beaches On The Shores Of Fratello

Did you know that orcas sometimes intentionally beach themselves? They do it to hunt for shoreline seals, for instance. It’s a spectacular sight, but there’s quite a bit of risk involved, and seeing them struggle to get back to sea is a nerve-wracking experience. Last week, a Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver Orca beached on the […] Visit The Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive Diver Orca Beaches On The Shores Of Fratello to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 In Blue Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SJE119 Fratello
Jun 16, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 In Blue Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SJE119

Welcome to a new Sunday Morning Showdown. Whereas last week’s contestants were much higher upmarket, this week, we’re putting two more common, mid-tier divers up against each other. The Tudor Black Bay 58 in blue was introduced about four years ago. Ever since then, it has been a very popular vintage-inspired dive watch. But how […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 In Blue Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SJE119 to read the full article.

The Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded to 1,000 m SJX Watches
Jun 16, 2024

The Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded to 1,000 m

Practically every brand with a significant offering of sports watches has a 1,000 m-or-deeper dive watch in its catalogue, and Breitling has one in its catalogue since 1983. The latest is the Superocean Automatic 46 Superdiver that features a titanium case water resistant to 1,000 m that also features a bezel-lock mechanism. Initial thoughts  Breitling redesigned the Superocean two years ago, giving its line of dive watches a modern aesthetic with subtle vintage-inspired elements, distinguishing it from the vintage remakes common in this segment. Superocean Superdiver retains the same styling, but in a larger, higher-spec format. For someone who likes the earlier Superocean but found it too small or 300 m too modest – this is it. As an aside, the camouflage-pattern dial is new for the Superocean line and feels unnecessary, though the pattern isn’t too obvious at a distance. Given Breitling’s regular cosmetic updates, a different dial style is likely on the cards. Though the priciest Superocean at US$6,300 on a strap, the Superdiver is still equipped with an ETA 2892. That’s adequate but not really competitive at this price point given the superior movements found in most competing watches. The black variant with its rubber strap More variety Having recently expanded three of its signature collections - Navitimer, AVI, and Avenger - Breitling now does the same for the Superocean, its longstanding line of dive watches. The current-generation Superocean draws ins...

Panerai Introduces the Self-Illuminating Submersible Elux PAM01800 SJX Watches
Jun 15, 2024

Panerai Introduces the Self-Illuminating Submersible Elux PAM01800

Panerai’s origins lie in highly luminous dive watches for the Italy’s Marina Militare – and its signature models are named after luminescence – and the brand’s latest continues that tradition. Equipped with a miniature lighting system, the Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is the fourth of Panerai’s LAB-ID “concept” watches. The PAM01800 is powered by a movement with twin mainsprings, and the lighting module having four mainsprings of its own for 30 minutes of illumination. Initial thoughts Amongst Panerai’s recent launches, the PAM01800 is the most interesting both in terms of technology and relevance to the brand’s history. Though such lighting systems have been done before by Van Cleef & Arpels and De Bethune, the one inside the PAM01800 is more advanced, being brighter as well as having a longer power reserve, up to 30 minutes of illumination in fact. And it is a fitting nod to vintage Panerai watches that were generously lumed pocket watches modified for the wrist. At 49 mm, the PAM01800 is slightly ridiculous in size, and almost the same size as the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, but not far from the dimensions of historical Panerai watches. However, the PAM01800 is expensive at CHF92,800. Despite the interesting technology, the price feels ambitious, particularly since Panerai never really had durable success with its highest end offerings. Motor-driven lume A project that took some eight years to complete according to the brand, the PAM01800 was devel...

Rolex Turn-o-Graph: What You Should Know About the Rolex Tool Watch th Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 14, 2024

Rolex Turn-o-Graph: What You Should Know About the Rolex Tool Watch th

From the beginning of 1953 to the end of 1954, Rolex had perhaps the most productive and impactful period that any watchmaker had ever managed in a two-year stretch. The Explorer, the gold standard of adventure-oriented luxury watches, debuted in the summer of 1953 and the first Submariner, the quintessential diver’s watch, was manufactured that same year. The Submariner’s public debut wasn’t until 1954 at the Basel Watch Fair, but it wasn’t the only trendsetting Rolex watch the Crown released that year: the other was the original GMT-Master, the dual-time travel watch against which all others are measured. Photo: Matthew Bain We all are familiar with the three iconic Oyster Perpetual timepieces above, but few may be aware that Rolex released another tool watch in 1953, whose production not only preceded that of the Submariner and GMT-Master but whose signature design feature influenced the look of both. That watch is the Rolex Turn-o-Graph, the first serially produced Rolex tool watch equipped with a rotating bezel that could be used for timing intervals. (To be thorough, it should be noted that it was not the very first Rolex watch with such a feature: the Zerographe Ref. 3346, made way back in 1937, takes that honor, along with the distinction of being the first Rolex watch with a movement made in-house -  with a flyback chronograph, no less. The rarest of unicorns, the Zerographe (below) is nearly forgotten today, rarely mentioned in official Rolex literatur...