Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Tropical Tudor Submariner, A Pair Of Patek Chronographs, And eBay Picks Galore
All that, and more, in this (revived!) weekly round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
Dive Watches · Page 62
Hodinkee
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Announced As A Non-Limited Edition
Earlier this month, Longines debuted a new non-limited version of their popular Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium. Back when the brand partnered with Hodinkee for an exclusive limited edition, folks were a bit critical of the fact that the watch seemed strikingly similar to the Tudor Black Bay Pro, a point of criticism that didn't really concern me. It was a handsome watch, in my opinion but I wasn't a fan of the FOMO associated with the limited edition. Thankfully, if you were a fan of the idea behind the watch, you now have an option to pick up a model that arguably looks a little more refined - with features like a grade 5 titanium case and bracelet and a "true" GMT movement.
Teddy Baldassarre
Unimatic Watches Guide
Like so many of the modern breed of start-up, independent watchmaking companies, Unimatic traces its origin to a pair of friends with a shared passion for timepieces and an entrepreneurial spirit. Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato met as industrial design students at Politecnico di Milano, Italy’s largest technical university. Moro’s father had been a watch collector, and after designing his first watch as a lark while working at a furniture company, Moro connected with Nunziato to collaborate on the watch that became the Modello Uno U1-A, which launched in 2015 and essentially became the foundation of the Unimatic brand, its name a portmanteau of the Latin “unico” for unique, and “matic,” for willing or able. The Unimatic U1-A from 2015 The U1-A, which quickly sold out, was a classical dive watch with a 40mm round case, a flat, black dial; simple shaped indexes; a black bezel insert with a 60-minute scale and a lumed dot; and a Seiko movement. Its follow-up, the U1-B, was even more streamlined, dropping the minute scale from the bezel. Both the original models set the parameters for every one that followed: each Unimatic watch is pressure-tested to 300 meters of water resistance and designed and cased in Italy; each watch is individually numbered, and the design ethos driving them all is a function-forward, tool-oriented aesthetic. Today, Unimatic watches comprise dozens of models and include not only the divers that brought the brand to the table but also fie...
Fratello
Comparing Green-Bezel, Black-Dial Subs: 16610LV “Kermit” Vs. 126610LV “Starbucks”
Rolex surprised us all when the brand launched a Submariner with a green bezel in 2003. The stainless steel Sub was steadily monochromatic during the five preceding decades, so this was a bit of a shocker. The model was soon nicknamed “Kermit.” More than two decades later, it seems green is here to stay. We […] Visit Comparing Green-Bezel, Black-Dial Subs: 16610LV “Kermit” Vs. 126610LV “Starbucks” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
An Omega Seamaster Diver 300M for the 37th America’s Cup
As the official timekeeper of the 37th America’s Cup soon taking place in Barcelona, Omega is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup. A time-only version of the brand’s signature dive watch, the latest Seamaster features most of Omega’s material and movement innovations, including a laser-engraved ceramic dial and METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. The special edition also sports yachting-specific elements, including a blue ceramic bezel with a regatta countdown scale and a seconds hand counterweight in the form of the America’s Cup trophy. Initial thoughts As a special or limited edition, the new Seamaster is not especially interesting since Omega does a lot of them, with several commemorative editions for each sporting events it’s part of. And it’s not just for sports but also the James Bond film franchise. But as a new Seamaster, the America’s Cup edition works well. For one it’s a good value proposition at US$6,500 on a bracelet, particularly given the specs and features. At the same time, the blue-and-white aesthetic is appealing, especially with the clean, no-date look. And there’s the subtle detail on the minute hand with a gradual colour fade finish that is novel and so far unique in the Omega catalogue. So leaving aside that it’s yet another commemorative watch – it could do without the large logo on the sapphire back – the America’s Cup edition stands out as of the more appealing Seamaster models. A...
Monochrome
Introducing - A Special Omega Seamaster Diver 300m for the 37th America’s Cup
In recent news, watchmaker Omega has recently announced the renewal of its role as the Official Timekeeper of one of the the world’s most intense sailing races and the oldest trophy in international sport, the America’s Cup. The brand began its partnership with Emirates Team New Zealand and legendary sailor Sir Peter Blake in 1995 […]
Time+Tide
The BWG Isaria is an example of pure individuality
This distinctive German diver is a refreshing change of pace from the watch world's obsession with demure designs.The post The BWG Isaria is an example of pure individuality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! So make yourself a nice cup of coffee and let our writers make their cases before you get to decide which of the two watches is your favorite pick. This week, it’s the battle of the luxury travel watches. Jorg will make a case […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green to read the full article.
![[Video] Review: the Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB453 Divers](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/08/SEIKO_SPB453_9.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[Video] Review: the Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB453 Divers
There are a few different ways to approach reviewing the newest dive watches from Seiko. The SPB453, SPB451, and SPB455 were announced earlier this year and were immediately dissected across Instagram, watch forums, and private group chats throughout the watch spectrum. That’s what you’d expect, right? These follow ups to the incredibly popular SPB143 and its many, many siblings represent the core version of the core watch within Seiko’s core collection. At least to enthusiasts, these watches are quintessential, like a white cotton t-shirt, a Bic pen, or even an iPhone. They’re staples, they’re for everyone, but there’s also a deep interest in them as aesthetic objects, tools, collectibles, and everything else that drives our hobby. Writing about these watches poses a challenge. One tactic is to compare and contrast with the prior version, something Zach Weiss does a great job of in the video linked below. Another option is to attempt to evaluate these new watches as if they exist in a vacuum, without taking into account how they relate to the many versions that came before it. This includes, don’t forget, not only the SPB143 (and, as we’ll always point out, the many derivatives that came out of that release) but also, if you’re so inclined, the entire breadth of the 62MAS family tree. This extends all the way back to 1966 and includes a great many re-issues and re-interpretations. Even massive Seiko fans, I think (I expect), must feel fatigue in consid...
Fratello
The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light - What Makes This Watch So Special?
Exactly five years ago, just in time for the European Masters golf competition in Crans Montana in 2019, Omega introduced an extraordinary lightweight watch: the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light. The watch was suddenly back in the spotlight again during the Olympic Games Paris 2024, and for those who weren’t around in 2019 and missed […] Visit The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light - What Makes This Watch So Special? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Nivada and Exquisite Timepieces Team Up for a Purple Toned Limited Edition Depthmaster
In its latest iteration of the Depthmaster, Swiss watch manufacturer Nivada Grenchen has just released their Purple Ghost limited edition. You may remember this model from last year’s review, but the new Purple Ghost has reimagined the classic diver of the past in a new colorway that’s as interesting as it is, frankly, cool. To begin with, we should mention that the Purple Ghost is a collaborative effort with Naples, Florida-based authorized retailer of some of the world’s most famous brands, Exquisite Timepieces. With its long relationship with Nivada Grenchen, this partnership highlights not only the best of both brands, but also the strengths of each – both separately and together. With Exquisite’s history in the luxury watch space and Nivada Grenchen’s 145 years in business, I’m sure each brand was able to compare notes and bring to market something that’s totally unique in the market today. So, enter the Purple Ghost. As with its previous iteration, you are going to get a lot of distinct personality from this watch. Before we get too far into what makes the Purple Ghost unique, we should take notes of the case. Ostensibly a cushion case, the oversized bezel adds a proportionality to this watch that belies its 39mm size. Like last year’s release of the Depthmaster, this LE comes with some funky Pac-Man-style numerical markings (don’t they kind of remind you of The Rugrats logo – in the best way possible?). Couple that with the vibrant purple Swiss...
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Daniel Craig, the Olympics, and that Mystery Seamaster
Did you watch the Olympic Games over the past two weeks? There’s a good chance you did: it’s been widely reported that ratings for the Paris Games were up across the board, with upwards of 30 million people tuning in to NBC’s coverage each night across all platforms, including the Peacock streaming app, which seemed to finally find its groove this year after a clunky experience in Tokyo three years ago. Even if you didn’t catch the big events night to night, just an occasional glance at coverage would have made it crystal clear who the timing sponsor for the Olympics was. While no one doubts that the Olympics are all about the athletes, it’s an enormous event for Omega (and a slew of other Olympic corporate partners). Omega branding is everywhere, and why wouldn’t it be? Their contributions to the Olympic experience are genuinely important and factor into every timed competition. But rather than Omega’s timing prowess, another story dominated the brand’s Paris Olympic story. Last week, Daniel Craig, formerly the actor who played James Bond, currently the actor who plays Benoit Blanc, was spotted taking in the games wearing a watch that was both familiar and…not. As has been covered widely across the watch internet, Craig was photographed wearing an Omega Seamaster Professional that doesn’t currently exist in the brand’s catalog. It would appear to have a black dial and no date, a configuration that many enthusiasts would certainly be interested in. ...
Monochrome
Hands-on - The New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Ultra Light “Armand Duplantis”
Omega, the official timekeeper of the Paris 2024 and 30 Olympic Games before that celebrated this year’s event with several Olympic-themed watches, like the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024 and the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition. Among other new models that caught everyone’s – well, almost everyone’s attention – was the special edition of […]
![[Video] Review: the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/08/Zenith_Defy-Extreme_15.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[Video] Review: the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
When I write reviews, I find myself bucketing watches into two distinct categories. The first of these is home to watches that feel like they’re meant for a different version of me, if not a different collector altogether. These are the watches that, whether I love them or not, I’d be hard-pressed to really see as part of my day-to-day life - at least as my life exists now. The other bucket is where watches like the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver live. This is the bucket for the watches that seem to hit right in my wheelhouse - the watches that seem like they were purpose-built to appeal to me (and possibly to my wallet). The minute I saw the press release for the Defy Extreme Diver, I knew it sat in this second bucket, and I knew I needed to spend some time with it, if not for a review, then certainly to consider whether this watch was one I needed in my life. Fortunately, I didn’t have to wait all too long, and after a couple of weeks with the Defy Extreme Diver on my wrist I can easily confirm what at first I only suspected - it is very, very good. There’s an inherent irony that comes along with the very concept of a luxury tool watch. The tension between building a rugged tool watch ready to tackle the world’s most demanding environments and building a high-end luxury product is palpable. To make a watch that straddles those two worlds without looking too much like a Submariner is even harder. With the Defy Extreme Diver, Zenith has managed to make somethi...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Two Unlikely Watches That Became The Face Of Omega's Olympics - The BG859 And The Aqua Terra 150 'Ultra Light' 'Duplantis'
It makes sense the Olympics would be all about the Speedmaster or Seamaster, but these two watches have won me over for two different reasons.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Victorinox Dive Pro
When I think of Victorinox, only one thing comes to mind: their iconic Swiss Army knife. Growing up in the scout program, I thought that a Swiss Army knife was the coolest thing ever, even if I couldn’t find one with the perfect tool set. Years later I’ve come to learn that Victorinox has an impressive line of products, ranging from iconic multi-tools, travel gear, fragrances, and of course, watches. When the Dive Pro landed on my desk, I was quite intrigued with its angular design and rugged appearance. Throughout this review, we’ll take a look at the technical specs and ultimately my opinion on the watches in general. The Dive Pro line from Victorinox is an extension of their dive watch offering with eight new references, bringing an increased depth rating of 300 meters, new case materials, and some bold colorways. While all of the new Dive Pro watches feature a 43mm case, faceted unidirectional bezels, and sapphire crystals, you have the option of two case materials: 316L Stainless Steel and Grade 2 Titanium. I feel that both of these materials were carefully selected for their unique properties they bring to the table. While titanium is a lighter material with more inherent corrosion resistance, these benefits come at a cost, literally. Stainless steel provides slightly less corrosion resistance but can be machined much easier allowing the material to be manufactured to the same quality at a cheaper price. Depending on the environments you expect to dive in, you ...
Monochrome
First Look - Dive Back in Time with the All-Black Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961
Four years ago, Mido livened up its portfolio with a funky multi-coloured reissue of its 1961 Ocean Star Skin Diver with a decompression table on the dial. Modelled after one of the most sought-after vintage models on the collector’s scene, Mido’s re-edited Rainbow Diver sold out briskly. Predicting the same successful course as the earlier […]
Monochrome
Buying Guide - A Quartet Of Compass Bezel Watches Fit For Epic Adventures
Summer is the time of year for fun in the sun, getting outdoors and simply enjoying life. So what better than to wear a suitable watch for whatever you’re doing? Swimming or scuba diving? Great, wear a dive watch! Travelling the globe? Awesome, wear a GMT watch? Heading into the mountains for a days-long trek? […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono
Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Today, we return to our regular program after last week’s battle between two rather elegant and dressy chronographs. This week, we put the TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox up against Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono. Both are vintage-inspired, automatic chronographs with a modern twist, and above all, they’re stainless steel sports […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Watch that Made AliExpress Homages Cool
When it comes to provenance, nothing has less of it than an AliExpress homage. On this online platform based in China that sells inexpensive Chinese products, there are plenty of watch brands (or should I say manufacturers?) offering copycat versions of watches with actual provenance. Selling everything from look-alike Seiko Turtles to Omega Seamasters, these brands specialize in affordable (often in the $100 to $300 dollar range) versions of popular watches.
Time+Tide
Game over: how can other superdivers compete with the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster “Pacman”?
1,000 meters water-resistant for less than US$1,000 - this retro dive watch's value proposition is pretty hard to beat.The post Game over: how can other superdivers compete with the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster “Pacman”? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Squale Introduces the 1521 Marina Militare
To celebrating its 65th, Squale turns once again to the Italian navy for a dive watch collaboration: the 1521 Marina Militare. A tribute to the vintage 1521 model supplied to the divers of the Italian navy – officially known as the Marina Militare – in the 1980s, this limited edition bears the navy logo on the dial and the naval coat of arms on the case back. The rest of the watch is classic 1521 with its angular “Von Büren” case reminiscent of 1970s dive watches – that’s because Squale was historically also a supplier of cases to other brands that included Blancpain and Doxa. Initial thoughts Although vintage re-issues are common with micro-brands, few have true historical basis. Squale, however, does as it was both a supplier of dive watch cases to notable brands as well as suppliers of watches to the Italian navy. Even though the design of the isn’t novel or creative – it is a vintage reissue after all – the historical navy connection sets this apart from its peers. The dial, bezel, and strap feature orange accents Priced at US$1,430, 1521 Marina Militare is affordable and priced comparably to past Squale models. Like many watches in this price range it’s powered by an inexpensive Sellita SW 200-1. It’s priced similarly to most of the micro brand competition, but the Marine Militare connection makes this little a more interesting. Retro and orange The 1521 Marina Militare reproduces the vintage “Von Büren” case that is best known for having...
Hodinkee
Daniel Craig At The Olympics… Wearing A Yet Unreleased No-Date Omega Seamaster?
A secret even Bond can’t keep.
Monochrome
Opinion - Making Sense Of The Yellow-Gold Rolex Deepsea 136668LB, A Diving Weight For The Wrist
Back in April, the Rolex Deepsea 136668LB was one of the most talked about watches of Watches & Wonders. The Deepsea has always been Rolex’s biggest and boldest dive watch (until the 50mm wide Deepsea Challenge 126067 came along that is, but we’ll ignore that for now). It takes the iconic design codes of the […]
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