Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Doxa SUB 200T, Now With A 39mm Case
Doxa has just announced the new Doxa SUB 200T, one of their most iconic designs in a more compact 39mm case. Read more on TBWS!
Dive Watches · Page 78
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex 'Great White' Sea-Dweller, An Omega 'Ed White' Speedmaster 321, And A Black Cartier Tank Must
Plus a Breitling Premier Datora and a limited Panerai Mare Nostrum.
Worn & Wound
Introducing a More Compact Version of Doxa’s Iconic Diver: the Sub 200T
The word “cult” gets thrown around a lot when discussing Doxa. Their dive watches have a decidedly niche appeal and fans of the brand really love them in a way that sometimes goes beyond casual appreciation. This is a fundamentally good thing for the community whether you’re part of the Doxa cult or not, as inevitably some of that enthusiasm and goodwill spills over into the rest of the hobby. What’s interesting though is that as time passes and Doxa grows, the cult objects have become more mainstream. That’s exemplified perfectly in the new Sub 200T, a more accessible version of the brand’s signature (and perhaps strangest) watch. The Sub 200T is one of those watches that, once you see it, you’re kind of surprised hadn’t existed until now. The Sub 200T takes the signature case lines and design language of the Sub 300 and shrinks everything down into a more wearable, casual, package. We get the same cushion style case, multi-scale bezel, small dial opening, and even the beads of rice bracelet in a footprint measuring 39mm in diameter and 41.5mm lug to lug (and 10.7mm tall). That’s down from 42.5mm in the Sub 300, so there should be a meaningful difference in how these watches wear. Beyond the smaller package, Doxa is seemingly trying to cast a wider net in who this watch appeals to by going absolutely full tilt on color options. You can have the Sub 200T in any signature Doxa color you like, plus a new dark green option they’ve dubbed Sea Emerald. A...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200T - A Smaller Take On The Classic Doxa Design
A new 39mm case brings updated proportions and new colors to a value-driven addition to the Doxa lineup.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Doxa SUB 200T Collection, Now in a more Compact 39mm Case (Incl. Video)
The design for Doxa’s signature diving watches, labelled SUB (and in particular the emblematic SUB 300 collection), was first introduced in 1966 and proved to be the blueprint for what we know and love today. While the iconic design has been retained over the years, Doxa has been playing around with the overall concept in […]
Fratello
Introducing: The 39mm Doxa Sub 200T
Doxa is an absolute fan favorite, so when a new release comes to light, it’s bound to make waves. The Sub 200T is an all-new model, but there’s no mistaking it for anything else but a Doxa. This watch should be a big hit for the brand with its smaller size and incredible number of […] Visit Introducing: The 39mm Doxa Sub 200T to read the full article.
SJX Watches
S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver
A bestselling franchise launched two years ago, S.U.F. Helsinki’s latest Moomin edition is the Moomin Diver. Based on the brand’s Vetehinen diver, the Moomin diver features an illustration from Moomin and the Comet that depicts the titular character diving. As with past Moomin editions, the diver features a laser-engraved and hand finished dial with lots of Super-Luminova. Initial thoughts The Moomin watches by S.U.F., the affordable sub-brand of Sarpaneva, are fun value propositions that offer a good quality of dial and case work for the price. This is typical of S.U.F. as well as Sarpaneva in their respective price segments. Priced similarly to the very first model at €5,550, the latest edition continues that while introducing a new dial motif. This is a timely change since the original dial design had already been repeated several times, including on the pricier, full-fledged Sarpaneva version. While the latest edition doesn’t have the same level of detail on the dial – it’s mostly engraved as opposed to being substantially open worked – it brings a new look with the dive watch aesthetic. Though the Moomin editions have been repeated several times, perhaps too often, this is an appealing new launch considering the price-performance ratio and relatively small edition size of 52 watches across two dial types. Diving-themed diver’s watch The new diver features a steel dial that reproduces a drawing from Moomin and the Comet, one of the many Moomin books pen...
SJX Watches
Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack
As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...
Fratello
Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro
It’s been almost a year since Tudor released the Black Bay GMT with the opaline white dial. Strangely enough, we never did a hands-on review of the watch. While it essentially was a line extension of the Black Bay GMT, the dial brings a certain praiseworthy attraction. The brand’s second GMT is the Black Bay […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Fans What They’ve Been Asking For
Last year marked the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms dive watch, and to celebrate they launched three new watches in three acts. Act One was a contemporary take on the Fifty Fathoms in stainless steel, Act Two was a high-tech modern piece geared toward pro divers in titanium, and Act Three was a historical MIL-SPEC interpretation in 9K Bronze-Gold. Despite the critical acclaim, collectors seemed to have been left wanting. There has been an appetite for a contemporary sub 45mm diameter, non-limited-edition version of the Fifty Fathoms for many years, and for 2024 Blancpain is finally making it happen with new 42mm-diameter Fifty Fathoms Automatic models in the permanent collection. They will be offered in both red gold and corrosion resistant grade 23 titanium. The latter is like grade 5 but has lower oxygen, nitrogen, and iron content. It also has better ductility and fracture toughness, which, according to Blancpain, makes it excellent in saltwater environments. Powering these new Fifty Fathoms is the in-house Blancpain Caliber 1315 automatic movement. Its construction includes three series-coupled barrels that can provide a class leading five days of power-reserve. It is elaborately decorated, at least compared to most divers, and has an 18K red gold oscillating weight sporting an NAC coating, whose design is inspired by the rotor of the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms. All of this, of course, is visible through the screw-down sapphire display back. Th...
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Robert Redford Debuts His Rolex 'Red Submariner' Ref. 1680 In The '70s Political Satire 'The Candidate'
Watching Movies turns three today, and so of course our watch-related movie of the week is a Redford film.
Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Five Of Our Favorite Go-Anywhere, Do-Anything Dive Watches
Watches that are so much more than just divers, from a Blancpain Bathyscaphe to a Seiko Prospex GMT.
Worn & Wound
The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around
I have a small obsession with watch naming conventions. I’m absolutely fascinated by the decisions brands make in what to call their watches. Some brands, for example, use only reference numbers, and collectors wind up giving the most popular watches nicknames (Grand Seiko comes to mind, although last year saw a notable exception to the rule). Then there are countless brands that incorporate language of adventure, particularly on high seas, into watch names: the Submariner, the Supermarine, the Sea-Rambler, and on, and on, and on, and on. And of course there are brands that steal a strategy from car manufacturers (or is it the other way around?) and give their watches names in one of the Romance Languages, an attempt to instill a sense of class and taste. But what I like are the simple and punchy names that get right to the root of what the watch is about. Memorable, sometimes funny names that communicate an ethos and make you go, “Oh yeah, of course,” all at once. The Speake Marin Ripples is one of my all time favorites. The Ripples is Speake Marin’s take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, a category that seems about as far afield as you might get from the brand’s roots, but that’s a story for another day. In my opinion, the Ripple is one of the most distinctive integrated bracelet designs to come on the scene in this recent period during which everyone under the sun has tried their hand at this type of watch. It belongs, I think, in the same conversat...
Worn & Wound
Just A Minute With The Citizen Aqualand
“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s not often you get the chance to own an innovative and iconic dive watch, but the Citizen Promaster Aqualand is exactly that. True to its original 1985 design, the modern Aqualand retains its hybrid analog digital display and pressure gauge, design cues that have withstood the test of time and make for an eminently capable dive watch to this day. Thanks to its depth meter and alarm/stopwatch functionality, the Aqualand is the same cool dive watch it was in the mid-1980s. Get the inside scoop by watching our video on the Promaster Aqualand below. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s not often you get the chance to ow...
Worn & Wound
Aquastar’s New Benthos 500 Founder’s Edition is the Release Dive Watch Fans Have Been Waiting For
If you’ve been following the reestablishment of Aquastar over the last few years, today marks an important milestone in the brand’s new chapter. After a series of well regarded divers offering takes on both Aquastar’s actual history and a sort of imagined version of it, we’ve finally come to the Benthos, perhaps the brand’s most famous watch, at least among the cult of divers and sports watch fanatics who have always held the brand in such high regard. This release, the Benthos 500 Founder’s Edition, very much feels like the watch that Aquastar has been building toward for the last few years, and it’s quite impressive in the metal. First, a little background on the Benthos for those unfamiliar with its history. The Benthos was introduced in 1970 as a diving chronograph, but it uses one of the most uncommon executions of what is a fairly common complication that we can recall. This is a monopusher chronograph with a centrally mounted minute hand, and no chronograph seconds hands. That means that when you activate the chronograph, the user has the strange experience of wondering if anything just happened. But wait a minute, and you’ll see that minute hand tick over to the first minute marker, and the functionality here becomes a little more clear. For most divers who would need to engage a chronograph underwater, it’s the minutes that truly matter, and a chronograph like this gives you exactly what you need, and none of what you don’t. The other piece...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Introduces A Surprise Black Bay Chronograph In Pink
Tudor has just announced a new Black Bay Chronograph with a very limited pink dial for 2024. Se specs, photos, our analysis, and more.
Time+Tide
Tudor taps into the “daring spirit” of its ambassadors for new Black Bay Chrono Pink
Tudor has launched a new Black Bay Chrono Pink inspired by ambassadors David Beckham’s Inter Miami CF and Jay Chou’s love for pink. It is not just a dial evolution, it is also presented on a five-link bracelet with a T-fit clasp – a first for the range. Unfortunately, Tudor claims “only a small number … ContinuedThe post Tudor taps into the “daring spirit” of its ambassadors for new Black Bay Chrono Pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Limited Production Black Bay Chrono “Pink”
In a surprise launch just before Watches & Wonders 2024, Tudor has just revealed the Black Bay Chrono “Pink”. Departing from the brand’s typical no-nonsense and occasionally military aesthetic, the new chronograph is based on a watch created for Jay Chou, the Taiwanese musician who’s one of the biggest stars in Asia. Though not a limited edition, Tudor states “few of [Black Bay Chrono “Pink”] will ever be made”. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are almost uniformly good value, regardless of model, so I am a fan. But most have either a sporting instrument or military equipment, which is to say the variety in design is limited (save for a handful of unpublicised special runs). It’s difficult to describe most Tudor watches as fun, which this certainly is. The Black Bay Chrono “Pink” is appealing because, well, it’s pink. The colour instantly sets it apart from the average Tudor watch, while also having being a subtle reference to historical models. And of course it is the value proposition that a Tudor always is, particularly with the high-spec Breitling-derived MT5813 movement. I like the watch, but I am unsure about the “5-link” bracelet (that is clearly Jubilee inspired), particularly on a watch of this size. Still, it’s a compelling enough proposition I would buy one given the opportunity. Jay Chou Otherwise serious looking This is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono that is ordinarily a low key watch, available either as a “panda” o...
Fratello
Hot-Take: Tudor Unveils A New Pink-Dialed Black Bay Chrono On A Five-Link Bracelet
Less than two weeks out from Watches and Wonders, Tudor has jumped the starting gun with a pre-show introduction. This pink-dialed Black Bay Chrono is also the version of this model we’re seeing for the first time on the brand’s five-link (don’t call it Jubilee) bracelet. Its distinct shade of pink sets it aside from […] Visit Hot-Take: Tudor Unveils A New Pink-Dialed Black Bay Chrono On A Five-Link Bracelet to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor Shocks Us All With The New Black Bay Chrono ‘Pink’
A day after announcing a partnership with Inter Miami (and days before W&W), Tudor doubles down on the colorway.
Monochrome
Introducing - Tudor Has Just Dropped An Unexpected Black Bay Chrono PINK
This might well be the most unexpected release of Tudor in years. A couple of months ago, we already spotted something not supposed to exist, or at least, a watch that can’t actually be acquired by the general public. Released in the frame of the partnership with Visa Cash App RB F1 Team, Tudor created […]
Deployant
New: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42MM
Still kicking yourself that you didn't managed to get the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Act 1s and the BlancpainXSwatch Fifty Fathoms isn't your cup of tea as it's seems too plasticky? Enter the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42MM.
Worn & Wound
Tudor Surprises with a Pink Black Bay Chrono
A surprise release from Tudor this morning, less than two weeks ahead of Watches & Wonders. The Black Bay Chrono “Pink” is a very limited and very pink iteration of the brand’s Black Bay Chronograph, and coincides with the recent announcement of Tudor’s partnership with Inter Miami CF, the Major League Soccer Club owned in part by David Beckham (who is, of course, a longtime Tudor ambassador). Pink is the color most associated with the club, hence the pink dial for this release. On the surface, what we have here is quite simple: it’s a pink version of the Black Bay Chronograph that we’ve become familiar with over the last few years. Like the other watches in the collection, it’s a panda style dial, with black subdials complementing the pink main dial, framed by a black tachymeter bezel. The specs of this chronograph are exactly the same as other Black Bay Chronos, with a steel case measuring 41mm and water resistance to 200 meters. Tudor fans (and watch enthusiasts with great memories) will immediately link this watch to another, somewhat lesser known watch in Tudor’s collection, the Black Bay Chrono Dark. This watch was also made for a professional sports team (the New Zealand All Blacks, a rugby team) and has been made in very limited quantities since its unveiling (which was also a surprise) in 2019. The point here is that Tudor just does this sometimes, dropping a surprise chronograph outside the bounds of a big trade show, in association with one o...
Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Superocean and Superocean Heritage: The Ultimate Guide
Historically, Breitling is a watchmaker known for two horological specialties: aviation watches and chronographs. In its most famous timepieces, in fact, like the Navitimer and Chronomat, the two genres elegantly merge into an iconic whole. While this is still largely the case today, Breitling has also staked out for itself a successful and impactful niche in the category of dive watches; its robust and stylish Superocean collection, introduced in 1957 during the early heyday of recreational diving, continues to command a large and avid audience today. Now divided into two distinctively different yet historically related families - the Superocean and Superocean Heritage - and offering both three-hand and chronograph models in a steadily growing array of sizes, materials, and colorways, Breitling’s seaworthy fleet offers a sporty option for just about everyone. Here is a brief history of the Superocean and a guide to the modern collection. 1957: Ref. 1004 Diver and Ref. 807 Chronograph The launch of the original Superocean, Breitling’s first purpose-built divers’ watch, in 1957, was timed to commemorate 25 years at the helm of the company for Willy Breitling, the only son of founder Gaston Breitling and the inventor of such enduring classics as the Chronomat and Navitimer. Commercially, it was also driven by the growing popularity of scuba diving as a hobby and the subsequent market desire for wristwatches that could be worn underwater. Several of that genre’s p...
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