Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor Shocks Us All With The New Black Bay Chrono ‘Pink’
A day after announcing a partnership with Inter Miami (and days before W&W), Tudor doubles down on the colorway.
Hodinkee
A day after announcing a partnership with Inter Miami (and days before W&W), Tudor doubles down on the colorway.
Monochrome
This might well be the most unexpected release of Tudor in years. A couple of months ago, we already spotted something not supposed to exist, or at least, a watch that can’t actually be acquired by the general public. Released in the frame of the partnership with Visa Cash App RB F1 Team, Tudor created […]
Deployant
Still kicking yourself that you didn't managed to get the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Act 1s and the BlancpainXSwatch Fifty Fathoms isn't your cup of tea as it's seems too plasticky? Enter the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42MM.
Worn & Wound
A surprise release from Tudor this morning, less than two weeks ahead of Watches & Wonders. The Black Bay Chrono “Pink” is a very limited and very pink iteration of the brand’s Black Bay Chronograph, and coincides with the recent announcement of Tudor’s partnership with Inter Miami CF, the Major League Soccer Club owned in part by David Beckham (who is, of course, a longtime Tudor ambassador). Pink is the color most associated with the club, hence the pink dial for this release. On the surface, what we have here is quite simple: it’s a pink version of the Black Bay Chronograph that we’ve become familiar with over the last few years. Like the other watches in the collection, it’s a panda style dial, with black subdials complementing the pink main dial, framed by a black tachymeter bezel. The specs of this chronograph are exactly the same as other Black Bay Chronos, with a steel case measuring 41mm and water resistance to 200 meters. Tudor fans (and watch enthusiasts with great memories) will immediately link this watch to another, somewhat lesser known watch in Tudor’s collection, the Black Bay Chrono Dark. This watch was also made for a professional sports team (the New Zealand All Blacks, a rugby team) and has been made in very limited quantities since its unveiling (which was also a surprise) in 2019. The point here is that Tudor just does this sometimes, dropping a surprise chronograph outside the bounds of a big trade show, in association with one o...
Teddy Baldassarre
Historically, Breitling is a watchmaker known for two horological specialties: aviation watches and chronographs. In its most famous timepieces, in fact, like the Navitimer and Chronomat, the two genres elegantly merge into an iconic whole. While this is still largely the case today, Breitling has also staked out for itself a successful and impactful niche in the category of dive watches; its robust and stylish Superocean collection, introduced in 1957 during the early heyday of recreational diving, continues to command a large and avid audience today. Now divided into two distinctively different yet historically related families - the Superocean and Superocean Heritage - and offering both three-hand and chronograph models in a steadily growing array of sizes, materials, and colorways, Breitling’s seaworthy fleet offers a sporty option for just about everyone. Here is a brief history of the Superocean and a guide to the modern collection. 1957: Ref. 1004 Diver and Ref. 807 Chronograph The launch of the original Superocean, Breitling’s first purpose-built divers’ watch, in 1957, was timed to commemorate 25 years at the helm of the company for Willy Breitling, the only son of founder Gaston Breitling and the inventor of such enduring classics as the Chronomat and Navitimer. Commercially, it was also driven by the growing popularity of scuba diving as a hobby and the subsequent market desire for wristwatches that could be worn underwater. Several of that genre’s p...
Hodinkee
Plus a 39mm IWC Mark XVI, and a titanium Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.
Monochrome
Picture a classic dive watch… It’ll probably be made of steel, with a robust case, a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute scale, a black dial with large luminous markers and a set of three hands, with an enlarged minute hand and a necessary seconds hand to indicate that your watch is running (basically, I’ve just […]
Worn & Wound
Last year, Longines had something of an unexpected hit with their HydroConquest GMT. The dive watch with the “flyer” L844.5 caliber was much discussed in enthusiast circles, and I have my own personal theory as to why. For years, Longines has excelled at being expert curators of their own back catalog, releasing a seemingly never ending string of well considered vintage reissues important releases from their past. They never stopped making watches in a more contemporary style, but they kind of dropped out of focus in recent years. The HydroConquest overhaul, then, was somewhat unexpected, and really stood out in their collection. And it was just weird enough to set itself apart from a market full of divers that kind of all look alike. Now, less than a year after the new HydroConquest saw the light of day, Longines has added new additions to the collection, which surprise in another way altogether. Announced last week, Longines now makes the HydroConquest GMT in a new larger size, with a case coming in at 43mm. When I saw the press release for this watch, I did a double take. Was there a typo here somewhere? The trend in recent years, Rolex notwithstanding, has been for brands to downsize their sport models to a more universally accepted “medium” size. Think anywhere between 38-40mm. With last year’s HydroConquest GMT coming in at 41mm, I’d have bet the lion’s share of my watch fund that the next iteration of this watch would be somewhere in that sub 40mm ra...
Fratello
Greg Petronzi is a passionate watchmaker who runs True Patina, a company that specializes in restoring vintage Rolex and Tudor watches. Recently, he sat down with me to share an ultra-rare Rolex Submariner 5510 that came across his workbench. Some of the best things about Rolex and Tudor are the stories. It has been a […] Visit Bringing A Rolex Submariner 5510 Australian “MilSub” Back To Life to read the full article.
Fratello
Both Longines and Seiko are well-established, long-standing names in the watch industry. That’s why it makes sense that they give their signature dive watches such imposing names as Legend Diver and Marinemaster. We thought it would be a good idea to put these revamped classics up against each other. Why? First, they’re both based on […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Legend Diver 39mm Vs. Seiko Marinemaster SJE101 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Supra Rub Having grown up in the south of France, surrounded by fishermen, sailors and divers, Supra Rub’s founder was frequently regaled by stories of unusual journeys and adventures. Epic tales of freedom and the courage to face the seas. That is when he noticed that all these men had one thing in common: a reliable, robust, and well-worn watch on their wrists. He understood then that not all watches could withstand these hostile environments and that is how his two passions were born. The Sea and the world of watches. With the creation of his brand Supra Rub, he is merging these two passions to offer his inaugural watch, the Aurora, named after his grandfather’s fishing boat. More than the sum of its parts, the Aurora is quite the dive watch. Made entirely of 904L stainless steel, which has higher corrosion resistance than standard 316L. It features a flush mounted automatic helium escape valve; it is water-resistant to 300m and has a ceramic unidirecti...
Monochrome
If you’re on this website, reading the latest article in my diving test series, there’s a pretty good chance that you have at least a passing familiarity with Sinn watches. There is an equally good chance that most of your non-watch-nerd friends, family, and colleagues do not. Flying just under the radar, Sinn has been […]
Revolution
Time+Tide
Chris Martin of Coldplay is known as an ambassador of love and now there is a Time For Love watch benefitting the Love Button Global Movement.The post Did you know Coldplay’s Chris Martin co-designed a dive watch collab? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Like many other brands born during the golden era of watchmaking, and in particular the early days of the professional dive watch, Squale might not sound familiar to a mainstream audience but has to be considered an emblematic maker of dive watches for seasoned enthusiasts. 65 years ago, in 1959, Squale launched its first watch; […]
Hodinkee
After last year's "Act 1" 70th anniversary model in steel, these two new releases round out the lineup for Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms range in a smaller form factor.
Worn & Wound
Assouline is known as a brand that reflects the finer things in life. As a standard-bearer of fine art, culture, and lifestyle, Assouline has solidified its reputation as a premier publisher synonymous with sophistication. Wherever the haute monde is, Assouline is sure to follow with one of their well-designed, beautifully curated coffee table books. Their latest edition, Rolex: The Impossible Collection, 2nd Edition is an especially exciting release for the horologically-inclined, focusing on the one-hundred watches that define the brand’s legacy and rich history. Within the pages of The Impossible Collection, readers will get a chance to explore the various ways in which Rolex has entered the cultural consciousness. From the first wristwatch dating to the early 1900s and the first Oyster Perpetual from 1931, to an Explorer worn during Sir Edmund Hillary’s expedition to the summit of Mount Everest in 1953 and the Submariner worn by actor George Lazenby in the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, this book acts as a reflection of a brand which has stood at the cross-section of adventure, style, and sportsmanship. For the casual collector to the fanatics among us, Assouline’s attention to detail and design in The Impossible Collection will inspire readers while making a handsome companion for your library. Every page is carefully designed to elevate the reading experience, while leaving the page clean and uncluttered, so every watch has room to shine. Ro...
Fratello
Many fans of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms have been yearning for a non-limited edition in a smaller case - a watch like the 42mm Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition of last year. Well, steel stays limited, but red gold and titanium iterations are now unlimited, meaning 14 possible variations made their way […] Visit Blancpain Launches 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique Watches In The Regular Collection - Have Your Wishes Been Granted? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Next to the vintage-inspired Legend Diver collection, the Longines HydroConquest is a more utilitarian, robust, classic diver, with water-resistance up to 300 metres, a unidirectional, external rotating bezel, a screw-in crown and a screw-down caseback. Following the introduction of the practical, versatile and mostly visually appealing HydroConquest GMT last year in a 41mm case, Longines […]
Monochrome
While we’re not here to re-do the story of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, we must remember that we’re talking about one of the most important watches ever. Created back in the mid-1950s and one of the first purpose-built modern dive watches, it has, together with a couple of other timepieces, established the fundamental technical and […]
SJX Watches
Having marked the 70th anniversary of its signature dive watch last year, Blancpain is now adding the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42 mm to the lineup. Maintaining the vintage-inspired style of its larger sibling, the new Fifty Fathoms has a more compact, 42 mm case that’s available in either red gold or titanium – both entirely brushed – a size that was first seen on the 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition. Initial thoughts The overall appearance of the new Fifty Fathoms stays close to the longstanding ref. 5015, but in a smaller package. While its predecessor was a chunky 45 mm, the latest model is 42 mm. It retains almost exactly the same design, and even the same cal. 1315 inside (now visible through a display back), but in a more wearable case. If you liked the earlier version but found it too big, then the appeal of the 42 mm model is clear. More broadly, the CHF15,000-ish price point of the Fifty Fathoms is competitive given the build quality. The case and dial execution are good, while the movement is one of the more sophisticated amongst sports watches in this price range. New packaging The new Fifty Fathoms is essentially a compact version of the 45 mm model, which was launched in 2007, making it one of the longest tenured models in the catalogue. The 42 mm version preserves the familiar design, but in a smaller format. So the dial retains the Arabic numerals at the quarters, sword hands, and the italic model name above six. Because of the reduced size, th...
Worn & Wound
As I’ve gotten more and more involved in the watch world over the years, something that’s become a great interest to me is accessible craft in watchmaking. We all know that you can spend five figures (or more) on a watch and get a movement with meticulously hand finished and polished bevels, for instance, but what I’m really drawn to is the brands that are able to do impressive things the old fashioned way at more accessible price points. Think of anOrdain’s enamel dials, for instance, or the handmade silver cases from James Lamb. We frequently look to smaller operations for this kind of work, but large brands are capable of surprising us with unusual craft techniques as well, and we were reminded of that a few weeks with the introduction of a pair of new watches by Citizen using their impressive Washi paper dials. These watches fall into The Citizen collection from Citizen, one of my favorite names for a collection, even as it drives my editor brain kind of insane. Yes, the watches are called “The Citizen” in the same way the iconic diver made by Rolex is the “Submariner.” I’ll be honest, I don’t know the origin of the use of the definite article in the collection’s name, or anything about the decision to name these watches after the brand itself. Frankly, I don’t want to know, because I like the story I’ve created in my head of Citizen creating a collection that they feel perfectly defines their brand to such a degree that you could call it Th...
Hodinkee
Plus a 50th anniversary Omega Seamaster 300m GMT and a Grand Seiko GMT LE.
Fratello
Last year, Aquastar released a modern interpretation of one of its earliest watches, the Model 60. The no-nonsense black dial paired with a utile skin-diver case made it an instant hit. Now a new dial color joins the fray. The limited-production Greenwich Edition has a dark green dial that works well with the design. It […] Visit Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition to read the full article.
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