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Dress Watches · Page 26

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième Enamel Monochrome
Apr 1, 2025

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième Enamel

Since 1991, Jaeger-LeCoultre has marked each new decade of the Reverso with a special edition, beginning with the Soixantième, which celebrated the model’s 60th anniversary. Introduced in 1931, the Reverso remained a time-only watch until this milestone edition became the first to feature complications. A decade later, the Septantième showcased the brand’s expertise in movement […]

First Look – The New Frozen Editions of the H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Monochrome
Apr 1, 2025

First Look – The New Frozen Editions of the H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic

The Streamliner collection was introduced by H. Moser & Cie in 2020 and was an overnight success. Its groovy integrated cushion design was fresh, original and brilliantly executed. Since its inception, we’ve seen a wide range of time-only, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and chronograph models, and even several fascinating skeletonised iterations. Moser also loves to play […]

Introducing – The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, the Successor to the Emblematic 5196 Monochrome
Apr 1, 2025

Introducing – The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P, the Successor to the Emblematic 5196

Since its introduction in 1932, many consider the Calatrava reference 96 as the paragon of an elegant dress watch. Although the collection has expanded in different directions, fans of the classical, timeless, time-only, ultra-slim, manual-winding dress watch will be pleased to learn about the latest Calatrava released during Watches & Wonders 2025. With its vintage-inspired […]

Introducing – The New World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch, the 1.85mm Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Monochrome
Apr 1, 2025

Introducing – The New World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch, the 1.85mm Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

We are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with records continuously being shattered and timepieces at a level of thinness that would have been almost unimaginable just a few years ago… At Watches and Wonders 2024, Piaget clinched the record for the thinnest tourbillon ever with its Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, measuring a […]

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic SJX Watches
Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic

For the first time since 1998, and for only the second time in the nearly 100-year history of its most iconic model, Jaeger-LeCoultre has squeezed a world timer into the Reverso. The result is the Reverso Tribute Geographic, which features a demure primary dial with an outsize date on one side and an exquisite world time display on the other. The Geographic is available in a stainless steel case with a blue dial or as part of a 150-piece limited edition in 18k rose gold featuring a chocolate brown dial. Both models share the same dimensions, which are unfortunately a bit on the large side. Initial thoughts There’s a lot to like about the Reverso Geographic. Reversos like this that hide a complication on the second dial are deeply appealing to me, and carry with them the thrill of keeping a secret. It also gives the watch a split personality, enabling the wearer to choose the dial that matches their mood. While I immediately liked the concept of the Geographic, I was slightly disappointed to see the dimensions, which match those of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph launched in 2023. At 49.4 mm long by 29.9 mm wide, the Geographic is among the larger Reversos, meaning it loses some of the intended vintage charm. That said, the size is a consequence of its functionality – a smaller case size would make the world time display unreasonably small. One of the things I liked about the Tribute Chronograph that also applies to the Geographic is the fact that it’s very much a sle...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions SJX Watches
Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 270th Anniversary Editions

The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross. Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal. Initial thoughts This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion. I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually. The Patrimony Self-Winding duo Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date. Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial. Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism. This 4 Hz movement platform has a relat...

Frederique Constant Introduces a Revamped Classic Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Apr 1, 2025

Frederique Constant Introduces a Revamped Classic Perpetual Calendar

Frederique Constant proved that a perpetual calendar watch could be priced within reach of the general market with the release of their original Classic Perpetual Manufacture back in 2016. Nine years later, the Geneva-based brand’s redesigned and refined new Classic Perpetual looks to continue that tradition.  Housed in a steel 40mm case that sports slimmer lugs and softer angles than previous models, the new Classic promises elegance and functionality in equal measure. The salmon “sunray” dial and silver diamond-cut indexes ooze cocktail party elegance, but keep the color scheme in check in order to draw full and worthy attention to the complications: a date counter at 3 o’clock, moonphase at 6, weekday counter at 9, and month and leap year counter at 12, all of which are stepped to add dimension to the dial. A discreet sector dial minute track runs the perimeter for a touch of vintage flair, while the Frederique Constant signature sits below the moonphase window at the 6 position. None of these features will be a surprise for seasoned calendar collectors, of course, but the combination of the salmon dial, silver dauphine hands and indexes, and subtly reshaped Classic case will draw appreciation from those in the market for a dress watch that punches above its price point. The included dark brown alligator leather strap adds another point of class to the Classic, as does the onion-style crown-this is a watch to be worn while toasting a great achievement in the ...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces a Compact 1815 in Blue SJX Watches
Apr 1, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces a Compact 1815 in Blue

Among the new releases from A. Lange & Söhne this year, the blue-dialed 1815 34 mm might be the most surprising. Lange has a well-earned reputation for making chunky, complicated watches, but watches like this show the brand has good instincts when it comes to the opposite end of the spectrum and is equally capable of making simple, graceful watches. Available in 18k white or rose gold, the 1815 34 mm is a not a limited edition, and it is an alternative entry-level model in addition to the Saxonia Thin. Despite its simplicity, the 1815 is equipped with an all-new movement, the L152.1. Initial thoughts I’d argue few brands are as committed to understatement as Lange, and this watch is a testament to that. While there’s been an undeniable trend toward smaller, thinner watches in recent years, 34 mm is aggressively small, which makes it a statement of sorts; it’s the polar opposite of the big ostentatious watches that are all-too common. Candidly, a 34 mm watch is not for everyone, but that’s kind of the point. The key difference between this new 1815 and those we’ve come to know is its diminutive 34 mm case, which makes it the smallest 1815 to-date, matching the diameter of the original Saxonia. In fact, at just 5.9 mm thick, it’s the smallest watch Lange has ever made. But despite its small size, the new 1815 retains the brand’s signature faceted lugs and brushed case band. The movement fills the case neatly, and even though the case back is slim, it still f...

A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual SJX Watches
Apr 1, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual

Topping A. Lange & Söhne’s 2025 line-up is the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Featuring a compact platinum case and black enamel dial, the new flagship watch of the Saxonia line marks the first time Lange has combined these two classic complications on their own. Limited to 50 pieces in platinum, the Repeater Perpetual is positioned near the top of the current catalogue. Beyond the technical complexity, it’s been endowed with an exceptional white gold and black enamel dial crafted in-house, and features the frosted movement finish that’s often reserved for the brand’s special editions. Initial thoughts It’s always nice to see a brand cover new ground, especially when that ground is the tried-and-true combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. It’s an extravagant, decadent watch that combines one of the most legible perpetual calendar layouts with one of the industry’s most technically sophisticated minute repeaters. Beginning with its compact form, the Repeater Perpetual packs 640 components inside a platinum case that’s just 40.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm thick; roughly the same dimensions as a Rolex Submariner. It features an enamel dial in deep black, which is always a risk, since even the tiniest imperfections tend to stand out vividly. A cynic might point out that the new calibre L122.2 is largely a mashup of a Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater, but to do so would be to miss the point. The movement is everything Lange does be...

Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G Fratello
Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G

Making an early yet impressive start to the much-awaited deluge of Watches and Wonders 2025 releases, Patek Philippe has just introduced 15 new models to its catalog. Among them is the Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G-001. This watch also marks the debut of a new movement, the in-house 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J. Patek Philippe […] Visit Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G to read the full article.

Comments 2

  1. Anonymous
    the whole point of a dress watch is that it disappears on your wrist. precious metal cases, minimal dial, two hands. that's the formula.
    1. Anonymous replying to Anonymous
      totally agree on the invisibility factor, but i'd push back on "two hands only." a good three-hander with a clean dial still disappears just fine. it's really about restraint, not the hand count.

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