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Dress Watches · Page 28

Up Close: Biver Automatique SJX Watches
Dec 6, 2024

Up Close: Biver Automatique

The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...

Unplugging: Combatting Enthusiasm Fatigue Worn & Wound
Dec 4, 2024

Unplugging: Combatting Enthusiasm Fatigue

I’m a pandemic-era watch enthusiast. Stuck inside along with the rest of the world, I found myself with an unusual amount of time on my hands in the spring of 2020. My interest in watches had been passing at best, reflected in my recent purchase of a quartz Citizen dress watch that, looking back, was likely the most generic version of a bland 3 handed watch available on the entire internet. It was this office-inspired watch (which I was not even allowed to wear to the now-shuttered office) that probably led YouTube’s algorithm to throw a watch review into the mix as it attempted to entertain me for hours on end. Imagine my surprise when my former coworker and Worn and Wound’s own Zach Kazan was on my screen, talking about the water resistance and case diameter of a Seiko. And just like that, I stumbled into an engaged group of local collectors that were more than happy to get a newbie like me up to speed. Sure, it felt like the world was on fire, but at least I had a new hobby and community to distract me as it burned.  Stories similar to mine were playing out all over the world as a new wave of enthusiasts used an influx of time (and sometimes money) to give themselves self-curated crash courses in horology. For those of this cohort that still spend their free time reading watch blogs, it’s been a wild ride. We witnessed (and perhaps fueled) the rise of hype culture, the skyrocketing of prices, the divisive power of a plastic Speedmaster and the advent of not one...

Hands-On With The 2023 Cartier Tank Américaine Large Models In Steel And Yellow Gold Fratello
Dec 4, 2024

Hands-On With The 2023 Cartier Tank Américaine Large Models In Steel And Yellow Gold

At Watches and Wonders 2023, Cartier introduced the new Tank Américaine. It excited me because I had tried on an older Tank Américaine a few months before at a get-together. It was a gold version with a date and a guilloché dial, and it unexpectedly charmed me. I assumed the Tank Américaine would be too […] Visit Hands-On With The 2023 Cartier Tank Américaine Large Models In Steel And Yellow Gold to read the full article.

Vyntage Horology Debuts Time-Only in Tantalum and Onyx SJX Watches
Dec 3, 2024

Vyntage Horology Debuts Time-Only in Tantalum and Onyx

Vyntage Horology is a micro brand established by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East watch retailer giant best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. Vyntage has so far focused on small-run limited editions, with the latest being the Purity Tantonyx. The 24-piece edition is a time-only executed in a novel combination of exotic materials: a tantalum case with a polished black onyx dial. Inside is a manual-wind La Joux-Perret LJP7380 with a 90-hour power reserve that’s rotated 45 degrees from the usual position, giving the watch its signature four o’clock crown. Initial thoughts On its face, the Tantonyx seems like a familiar proposition from a micro brand. But a couple of things set this apart from the typical offerings in this segment. For one, the materials are unusual, especially at this price point. Granted, the tantalum case and onyx dial make this substantially more expensive than the base model Vyntage watch, but the pricing remains reasonable. The attention to detail in the execution also stands out. It’s obvious in the domed bezel and recessed seconds register (thanks to a two-part dial), but more notable in the finishing of the case, which has brushed flanks and polished tops for contrasting surfaces that are rarely done with tantalum due to its hardness. However, the design is a missed opportunity in terms of minimalism in my opinion. Though the dial is already clean – the model name is Purity after all – I would have gone a step further and eliminate...

Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization Fratello
Dec 1, 2024

Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization

In a move that should delight customers, IWC now offers a customization program for the Portugieser Chronograph. Buyers can visit a participating IWC boutique and configure a bespoke model, which can be delivered in just three weeks. Plus, new dial colors are available as part of the program. It’s nice to see a large brand […] Visit Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization to read the full article.

Micro-Brand Digest: New Watches from Japan, Australia, Singapore, and More! Worn & Wound
Nov 29, 2024

Micro-Brand Digest: New Watches from Japan, Australia, Singapore, and More!

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of new micro-brand news we’re following. This includes promising concepts, Kickstarter launches, restocks, and everything in between. Worn & Wound was founded over 10 years ago to support small independent companies and affordable micro-brands, and our passion for these brands remains strong. Here’s what has caught our attention this month. If you come across a project that qualifies for our roundup, please email us at info@wornandwound.com to be included. Houtman Watch Jason Liddell grew up in Western Australia and has always deeply appreciated the great outdoors. He is particularly fond of the iconic regions and landmarks in Western Australia, including the Murchison River and the Pilbara. Houtman Watches is named after the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, charted by the Dutch sailor Frederick de Houtman in 1619. The Houtman Abrolhos is the southernmost true coral reef system in the Indian Ocean and comprises a stunning chain of 122 islands along with their associated reefs. The first two series have been named after the rivers mentioned earlier, and their most recent collection is called the Murchison. This series showcases four dial and hand configurations, which include two field/dress watches, one field/sport watch, and one pilot watch. All these watches have a stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm, a thickness of 11.5mm, and a length of 48mm from lug tip to lug tip. The interior width measure...

Omega Introduces the Concise Seamaster Diver 300M “No-Date” SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2024

Omega Introduces the Concise Seamaster Diver 300M “No-Date”

Teased at earlier this year during the Summer Olympics when it was photographed on Daniel Craig’s wrist, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M without a date has finally been officially unveiled. Making its debut in monochromatic colours, the no-frills Seamaster is essentially another take on the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition of 2019. The Seamaster “no-date” is available with either a black-aluminium dial laser engraved with the model’s customary wave-like pattern, or a vertically brushed steel dial with a silvery PVD coating. Less obvious but more notable for enthusiasts is the domed sapphire crystal that lends a vintage feel. Since Omega announced it will no longer be releasing limited edition watches, the new duo will be part of the permanent collection. Initial thoughts The date window has always been a hotly debated topic within watch enthusiast circles, which tend to prefer the purity of a date-less dial. No matter where a date window is placed, there will be critics. In my view, such criticism is sometimes valid. The Seamaster 300M certainly benefits from the facelift, which results in a more aesthetically pleasing dial. The clean dial also suits the functional nature of the model. Priced at US$6,500 on the mesh bracelet, the new Seamaster is priced right considering the feature, including the in-house cal. 8806, a METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. Ironically, the new Seamaster is US$600 more expensive than the variant with a date. That said, it is arguably...

First Look – A US Army Commissioned Wristwatch Gets a Remake as the Titoni Airmaster Pilot Chronometer Monochrome
Nov 28, 2024

First Look – A US Army Commissioned Wristwatch Gets a Remake as the Titoni Airmaster Pilot Chronometer

Titoni is an independent family-owned watch brand founded in 1919 by Fritz Schluep in Grenchen, Switzerland, now in the hands of great-grandsons Marc and Olivier Schluep. With a variety of contemporary collections and even an in-house automatic powering its Line 1919 dress watch collection, the genuine interest in this brand resides in its remakes of […]

Introducing – A Brand New Ressence Collection, the Compact Type 9 Grey and Aqua Monochrome
Nov 28, 2024

Introducing – A Brand New Ressence Collection, the Compact Type 9 Grey and Aqua

Two years after introducing the Type 8, its most minimalist time-only watch, Belgian independent watchmaker Ressence expands the concept with the launch of the new Type 9. Like all Ressence creations, the latest model incorporates the brand’s patented ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System) display module, with time indicated via revolving sub-dials – the so-called “beyond […]

Hands-On: the Circula Facet Worn & Wound
Nov 27, 2024

Hands-On: the Circula Facet

The eagle-eyed watch enthusiast may have noticed a theme shift on the Circula website very recently. A new layout, new graphics, even a new logo. No, this is not some quarterly refresh, but rather a sign of things to come. Enter the Facet. A new flagship model from the brand positioned as an elevated everyday or dress watch following in the integrated bracelet sport watch wave that has swept throughout the industry. Now, the Facet may not technically have an integrated bracelet (it’s available on a strap as well), though it certainly leans into a similar look and feel. While this might be an introductory piece for a portion of this audience, Circula is a brand that has been on my radar for a while now with the Protrail Field watch making its way into my collection. I can honestly say too that I was a fan of the former direction of the brand, aiming to provide good value in the roughly $1,000 sports watch segment of the market. So, does this departure from the previous trend towards another signal my exit from the bandwagon or blow a signal for full steam ahead? Let’s face it, the landscape of the watch industry has changed creating a more crowded and competitive market than we have ever seen before. In an effort to stand out, Cornelius Huber, the current caretaker of Circula and 3rd generation at the helm, has partnered with designer Guy Bove, previously of TAG Heuer amongst others, in designing the Facet to stand out in the pack. Utilizing new finishing techniques, a ...

First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in Sage Green and Midnight Blue Monochrome
Nov 26, 2024

First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in Sage Green and Midnight Blue

Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic Laureato, first introduced by Girard-Perregaux in 1975. Its distinctive design-centred around a tonneau-shaped case, slim, raised octagonal bezel with circular plinth, and integrated bracelet-has evolved over decades while remaining true to the original spirit, a tradition upheld by the latest releases. The two new time-only Laureato […]

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever SJX Watches
Nov 26, 2024

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever

A record was set last night in Geneva when the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A “Children Action” sold for CHF6.7 million, equivalent to US$7.56 million. The result surpasses the US$6.5 million for the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” that was set in 2021, the very peak of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze. The fad for such sports watches has since petered out, but anything Patek Philippe that’s unique clearly remains highly desirable. The record price is arguably less about the watch being a Nautilus than it is a one-off, fully-engraved Patek Philippe. This year’s auction once again took place during the charity’s dinner event in an auction conducted by Aurel Bacs of Phillips. Both room and phone bidders competing for the Nautilus that is entirely engraved with a “Maori-inspired” theme on its case and bracelet, with only the polished centre links of the bracelet left unadorned. The Geneva watchmaker has long supported Children Action, which aids disadvantaged children around the world. The organisation was founded by Bernard Sabrier, a well-connected private banker in Geneva. The ref. 5270T-010 of 2022 Over the years, Patek Philippe has contributed one-of-a-kind watches that sell at the organisation’s annual gala dinner, raising tens of millions for the charity. Past Children Action watches have included the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium that sold for CHF2.3 million in 2018. And two years ago, the ref. 5270...

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special! WatchAdvice
Nov 26, 2024

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special!

As A. Lange & Söhne celebrate the 30th anniversary of the iconic Lange 1, we thought we’d join the party, and what better way to help celebrate than to take the Lange 1 Time Zone out and about? What We Love The asymmetrical dial Ease of legibility of 2 time zones The impeccable finishing all over the watch What We Don’t The date window with no 0 in front of 1 through 9 It is probably not an everyday watch for many people Like most world time watches, it doesn’t take into account daylight savings automatically Overall Score: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 2024 has been a celebratory year for A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxony brand has celebrated two birthdays this year, the first being the 25th Anniversary of the Datograph, which was showcased at Watches & Wonders this year with the stunning Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down, but the second, and maybe the most important was the 30th Anniversary of the Lange 1, the first modern watch the brand created after being brought back to life. RELATED READING: Happy 30th Birthday to A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1! So, it is safe to say that the Lange 1 is a special piece when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne, and when we interviewed A. Lange & Söhne’s Asia Pacific Managing Director, Nicolas Gong, a couple of months ago, he had this to say about the Lange 1, and I think he summed it up perfectly: “It’s the first watch that we launched...

Hands-on – The Unexpectedly Funky Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787 with Black Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Nov 25, 2024

Hands-on – The Unexpectedly Funky Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787 with Black Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Dress watches are typically slim, elegant, and minimalistic, designed to complement formal attire seamlessly. While their refined details and artistry are anything but boring, they are seldom described as playful. Now, the platinum Breguet Classique 7787 with its black Grand Feu enamel dial-a piece that is, say, different. Alongside its classic beauty, it exudes a […]

Worn & Wound
Nov 24, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 94: Parades, Awards, and More!

This week’s episode of A Week in Watches is a bit of a doozy. We start off a with some quick coverage of few new releases from C Ward, Studio Underd0g, and Jaeger LeCoultre. After, we take a more in depth look at the new Serica 1174 Parade, the brand’s first proper dress watch. Finally, the bulk of the episode is spent discussing the results of the GPGH Awards, while taking a closer look at some of the winners. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 94: Parades, Awards, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

eBay Finds: A Baylor in Great Condition, the Historic Accutron Astronaut, and a Classic Hamilton Chronograph Worn & Wound
Nov 22, 2024

eBay Finds: A Baylor in Great Condition, the Historic Accutron Astronaut, and a Classic Hamilton Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Computron  Another eBay Finds, another vintage LED for your bidding pleasure! This Computron example is one of (if not the) earliest Bulova LED’s. Sometimes referred to as the “Big Block” owing to its big, chunky gold nugget style case. This case is in pretty good shape, with some marks and wear from use but hasn’t been polished. The LED window has no cracks, and all the LED segments work, and the watch runs and works properly per the seller. The watch comes with its original integrated bracelet as well. These are on the scarcer side, and it’s nice to find an example like this that looks good and works well. View auction here Vintage Baylor  Here we have a simple little Baylor sporty dress watch with a great design. The watch has a chrome plated case with stainless steel back, and measures 34mm wide. Case is in good condition with no apparent pitting that I could see. The two-tone silver quadrant style dial is nice and clean, with stylized Arabic numerals on the even hours and simple stick markers for the odd hours. There is no movement picture but the seller states the watch runs and keeps time. It even comes with the original box, always a good thing. Simple...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils a Stunning Full Pink Gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph Worn & Wound
Nov 22, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils a Stunning Full Pink Gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Compared to its yellow and white cousins, rose gold has a way of being both polarizing and under-the-radar simultaneously. Love it or hate it, you can’t really deny the strangle-hold that this colorway had on millennial Instagram feeds circa-2015. Thankfully, it’s gotten a bit more grown-up in recent years, most notably in the latest iteration of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Now, you may be thinking: Brett, you idiot. We already know there’s a pink gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph. And you’d be correct. But now, the Swiss watchmakers have taken it one step further with a full pink gold reference. Instead of just the case being in 18k (750/1000) pink gold, the dial, movement bridges, applied indexes, and pin buckle will also have a rosy hue to it. This color especially complements the Art Deco aesthetics of the watch, giving it just the slightest upgrade to the model without veering too far into modernity. Having been around since 1931, it’s one of those classic designs that needs very little improvement (and even less of an introduction). First designed for polo players, as the flip-action of the case added a little bit of protection for the crystal during a match, it has since become one of the most iconic silhouettes in horology. It has all the charm of, say, a Tank, but the bit of movement gives it just something more, I find. And that something more is best attributed to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s continued minor upgrades that still keep the le...

Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Worn & Wound
Nov 22, 2024

Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde

“Quiet luxury.” That’s the phrase that kept getting thrown at me during my week with the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde. “This is so quiet luxury.” It was an almost near-universal response, a constant chorus scoring my time with one of the most talked about new dress watches of 2024. Weirdly, that wasn’t my experience of the watch at all. To me, the Toric Petite Seconde was a dress watch for the guy who doesn’t need to get all that dressy. The guy more likely to be caught in a green chore coat than a cashmere sweater.  Cards on the table, my wardrobe is not all that luxurious. I tend to prefer Levi’s with Blundstones or L.L. Bean flannels and Patagonia Jackets over Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli. A sizable portion of my clothing has been purchased at REI. It’s an aesthetic my brother jokingly calls my “man of the people look” and, while I think that may be an overstatement, it’s probably not far off the mark. Unsurprisingly, my taste in watches tends to skew in a similar direction - I have a predilection for great dive watches and solid steel three-handers. Sure, a two-tone Datejust might make its way into the rotation here or there, but, to balance it out, I’ve spent a good portion of this year falling back in love with digital watches. I tell you all this so I can say, honestly, that when a brand like Parmigiani Fleurier releases a watch like the Toric, a small seconds dress watch available exclusively in platinum or rose gold, I...