Quill & Pad
One and Done? Dress Watch or Sports Watch?
In Tamim Almousa's opinion, a dress watch is serious. Presidential. It requires no explanation or backstory, no excuse or justification. It just is.
Dress Watches · Page 28
Quill & Pad
SJX Watches
Krayon’s Anyday is a Day-Date “Mechanical Planner”
Krayon continues with its focus on calendar-related complications with the Anyday. Coming after the Anywhere and Everywhere, the Anyday is not an astronomical complication, but rather a seemingly-simple watch, albeit one with a twist. The Anyday is more than just a basic calendar watch as it offers an intuitive way of visualising the days of a month. Krayon describes the Anyday as a “mechanical planner”, with its display giving a complete view of the current month’s layout in terms of dates and weekends via a colour-coded date display. Initial thoughts Since the Anyday shows the days of the week over the course of a month, the utility of the concept is clear. It allows the wearer to tell if a certain future date will be a Monday or Tuesday, for example. Design wise, the Anyday also continues with Krayon’s established aesthetic, resulting in a recognisable house style. The quality of execution also lives up to the earlier Krayon timepieces. The movement is carefully finished and bears the hallmarks now requisite in high-end independent watchmaking, while the dial is clean and conveys the Krayon aesthetic well. The weekday planning function is useful and conceptually interesting, but it is little disappointing in mechanical terms, especially in comparison to the Anywhere and Everywhere, which are true complication powerhouses. An annual calendar or another basic calendar complication would have made the proposition a little more appealing. That is not to say the Anyd...
Fratello
Introducing: The Hamilton Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition
Hamilton is no stranger to working with creative teams behind movies to produce imaginative watches. Now, with the introduction of the Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition, the brand has a watch appearing in an upcoming video game. It’s a fusion between a traditional tank and a futuristic techno-apocalyptic creation. This watch is most definitely […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Story Behind the Havid Nagan Classic One with Founder Aren Bazerkanian
Last year, one of the most intriguing watches I had a chance to handle was Havid Nagan’s debut, the HN00. I spent a few weeks with it right around the time brand founder Aren Bazerkanian was promoting his second release, the HN01. Now, another year later, and Havid Nagan is back with their third effort, the Classic One. The new naming convention speaks to just how different the Classic One is from its predecessors, and reflects the brand pivoting and changing in real time. In speaking with Bazerkanian, however, it’s clear that those shifts reflect a deep confidence in his own vision, and not merely commercial practicality. “About two years ago, I found myself digging deeper and deeper into the vintage market,” Bazerkanian explained to me, when asked about the inspiration for the Classic One. “Namely, I was very interested in learning about vintage Patek 96 references, Urban Jurgensen, and Parmigiani Fleurier.” The Classic One, as the name implies, evokes classic dress watches like the ones mentioned by Bazerkanian, and many others. The 38mm case is just 9mm tall, making for an ideal wearing experience that isn’t exactly “vintage” in feel, but it’s adjacent to it. The case construction and finishing is very much that of a modern watch, with sharp transitions and clearly defined lines. But it wasn’t just vintage watches on Bazerkanian’s mind when he set about to create the Classic One. “My wife and I had welcomed our daughter,” he told me, “...
SJX Watches
A Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Shreve, Crump & Low
One of the oldest jewellers in the United States, Shreve, Crump & Low (SC&L) has turned to Laurent Ferrier (LF) for the Classic Origin SC&L x LF, a tasteful take on the brand’s manual-wind, time-only wristwatch. Boston-based SC&L was founded in 1796, but the new Classic Origin adopts a restrained aesthetic in blue and bronze that’s a welcome departure from the sector dials and Breguet numerals that characterise many of LF’s recent editions. Available in either stainless steel or red gold, the SC&L edition is LF116.01, a hand-wind calibre that’s LF’s most accessible movement but still features refined touches like a linear winding click in polished steel. Initial thoughts I like the fact that the SC&L edition adopts LF’s signature style while avoiding overused elements like a sector layout in “salmon” or green. This instantly sets the SC&L version apart from most other Classic Origin iterations. Furthermore, the combination of grained blue and satin gold on the dial is unusual but appealing as it gives the watch a contemporary feel that works well with LF’s low-key “Galet” style. And the discreet SC&L logo above the seconds is an elegant touch. The SC&L edition being a manual-wind Classic Origin is both a pro and a con. It’s an advantage because of affordability; the Classic Origin is LF’s most accessible timepiece; the steel SC&L edition costs US$42,000. However, the calibre inside doesn’t have the same level of detail as the micro-rotor automat...
Revolution
The Evolution of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Movement
A look back at the movements behind the most significant Calatrava models, from the first cal. 12-120 in the ref. 96 to the latter-day cal. 30-255 PS in the Clous de Paris ref. 6119.
Monochrome
The Evergreens – An Interesting Case… The History of the Almost Century-Old Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Today, there is only one Reverso, with Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on its dial, but this was not always the case. During the 1930s, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier made watches that used the Reverso case for their timepieces. Moreover, the 1931 Reverso was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Geneve […]
SJX Watches
Only For Japan – The Biver Automatique with Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre continue their journey of independent horology with the Biver Automatique Japan Edition. Made in collaboration with its retailer in Japan, this special release is based on the time-only automatic debuted last year, but reimagined to cater to the traditionally classical taste of the Japanese collector. The minimalist edition debuts in two elegant variants that explore the contrast of light and shadow through hard-fired enamel made by an enamel workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. A stark white enamel dial is paired with a platinum case, while the high-contrast version matches a glossy black dial with a rose gold case – both share a clean, old-school aesthetic with applied markers and a railway minute track. A tribute to the Japanese collector The Automatique epitomises Biver’s neoclassical and elaborate approach to watchmaking, which blends careful detailing with hand-finishing techniques, for both habillage and the movement. Now the Japan Edition further refines the approach, condensing the more elaborate execution of the original versions into something more traditional, more classical, and arguably more reflective of the taste of Japanese enthusiasts. The two distinct models pay homage to the Japanese appreciation of minimalist aesthetics combined with high quality and precision execution, along with a well-established love of mid-century precision Swiss wristwatches. The clarity of the vintage-inspired design makes the Japan Edition ...
Worn & Wound
Tissot Introduces the PRC 100 Collection with a New Solar Powered Movement
There are a number of watchmaking technologies that are tough to appreciate until you’ve actually spent considerable time with a watch. Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive comes to mind, especially if you’re inclined to constantly check your watch’s accuracy. The consistency over time of a Spring Drive movement is kind of mindblowing if you’re used to “normal” mechanical watches. Similarly, high accuracy quartz, from any brand, is tough to wrap your arms around until you’ve gone months without needing a reset because your watch is keeping time to within a second or two. And ultra-thin watches deserve a mention here as well. A watch that you literally forget you’re wearing because it’s so thin can be a special thing when properly executed. But in terms of actually making your day to day life easier, there are few technologies that match the practicality of solar powered timekeeping. There are a bunch of brands that offer watches with solar movements, and for some it’s really become their stock-in-trade. Today, Tissot expands their solar offerings with the new PRC 100 Solar collection, bringing an aging collection up to date with some modern tech that should have broad appeal to both the mass market and the most sensible, practical, enthusiasts among us. The PRC 100 was originally introduced in the mid 2000s and is easily identified by its dodecagonal bezel. PRC is an acronym that stands for “Precise, Robust, and Classic,” which seems like the right canv...
Worn & Wound
Interview: Ming Thein on the All New Project 21, a Tantalum Dress Watch with a Restored Vintage Movement
If MING Watches isn’t on your radar, I don’t really know what to tell you. The brand, which has been around since 2017 and was founded by photographer and watch enthusiast Ming Thein (his current job title at the brand, at least according to LinkedIn, is ‘Supreme Overlord’), has stood at the forefront of the small independent movement since the day it launched, and has been a tremendous object lesson in the ability and aspiration of small brands. In the nearly eight years since the brand launched, they’ve made a lot of very cool watches, and possibly cooler than the watches themselves has been the diversity of their offering - diversity in style, functionality, and (notably) price. Now, MING has released its latest marvel, the MING 21.01 ‘Project 21,’ a dream watch for Ming himself and a clear summation of what the brand has been and done up to this point while offering a glimpse into the eponymous founder’s head and maybe even offering some clues as to what will come next for the brand. So what is the Project 21? Well, put simply, it’s a 35mm tantalum-cased dress watch built around a historically significant ultra-thin movement. Factor in a little more nuance, and it’s exceedingly clear that the Project 21 is an experiment in pushing the brand to its limits, just to see where those limits happen to be. The new watch, which will only be available in extraordinarily limited quantities, was inspired by a challenge thrown down at a 2023 collector’s d...
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Portugieser Buyer's Guide
IWC is a Swiss watch company, founded by an American, whose history is closely tied with Germany. But one of its most enduringly popular timepiece families is called the Portugieser, and it’s likely that lots of enthusiasts and would-be owners don’t even know why - or that the watch itself preceded that now-familiar name by many decades. What's indisputable is the Portugieser's key role in IWC's history and its impact on watchmaking - from its humble origins as a market-specific experiment to its modern incarnation as a major pillar of IWC's collection. 1939: Two Portuguese Businessmen Walk Into a Watch Factory… Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. Actually, don’t bother, because I’ll be retelling the origin story of the IWC Portugieser anyway, for those who aren’t familiar with it. Like much of the rest of the world, in the throes of the Great Depression and under the gathering storm clouds of a second World War, the Swiss watch industry was facing rough economic times in the 1930s. The International Watch Company, based in Schaffhausen in Switzerland’s German-speaking north, dealt with the challenges in a number of practical ways. One was by making wristwatches that could be worn by military pilots for the aerial combat that was looking increasingly inevitable. (I tell that story in much more detail here.) Another was by expanding its reach to international markets such as Portugal. Thus it came to be that two gentlemen by the name of Antonio...
Monochrome
Hands-on – A Quick Encounter with the Salmon Art-Deco Cartier Tank Américaine in Platinum
The name Tank at Cartier means far more than just a watch… It’s an entire range of watches, all distinguished by some design elements first defined by the so-called Tank Normale of 1917. From there, the collection expanded to dozens of designs, such as the Tank Louis Cartier, the Cintrée, the Française and the Asymétrique, […]
SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Comes of Age with the Classic One
Having made its debut two years ago with the Schwarz Etienne-powered HN00, Havid Nagan returns with Classic One, a chronometer-certified dress watch with a multi-layered dial. Available in two dial finishes, ebony or ivory, the Classic One takes the nascent brand in a new, more traditional direction. The Havid Nagan brand was launched on Kickstarter in 2019 by Aren Bazerkanian, who at the time was working as Director of Operations at the FP Journe boutique in Los Angeles. One of the guiding principles of Havid Nagan is an emphasis on slimness, which is an obsession that Mr Bazerkanian picked up from his time working for Mr Journe. Initial thoughts The original HN00 and subsequent HN01 were thoughtful and appealing watches, but the Classic One feels like a more mature product. In my opinion, the debut models were a bit overambitious with their proprietary strap system, which, though sleek and attractive, result in the risk of not being able to find replacement straps in the future. The Classic One, on the other hand, is more traditional in its construction, with classic lugs that can accommodate a variety of straps (the watch comes standard with straps from Jean-Rousseau). As a result of being more classical in orientation, the central feature of the Classic One is its multi-part dial with an unusual construction made up of clear sapphire sandwiched by brass discs. Finished with applied Calatrava-style hour markers, the overall effect is dynamic and attractive. In terms of...
Hodinkee
Video: Inside The History And Archives Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Exploring the legacy of JLC's enduring Art-Deco classic.
Worn & Wound
And You May Ask Yourself, “Well, how did I get here?” – Dealing With Imposter Syndrome in the Watch Community
I attended my first watch meetup with a generic quartz dress watch on my wrist and two budget mechanical watches stuffed into my pockets. In my right pocket was a one hand Luch, a watch that was as quirky as it was inexpensive (I think I paid $50 on Amazon, a lot for me at the time), thanks to a single hand that worked its way around a 12 hour dial about twice per day. I say “about” because it wasn’t very accurate, but I didn’t care. I’d spent hours researching my first mechanical watch before spending my hard earned cash, and was genuinely proud to own it. My left pocket housed a broken HMT Pilot, a watch that unlike the Luch that had been purchased out of pure enthusiasm, I knew little about. Of course, it wasn’t broken when I’d bought it, and the debate of whether or not it even belonged in my pocket at all was one that had caused me considerable stress in the hours leading up to the meetup. As a pandemic era watch enthusiast, I cut my horological teeth behind the safety of my phone screen. Like bowling with bumpers, the internet spoon fed me confidence in a secure environment, letting me compose painstakingly researched opinions into carefully curated comments before posting anonymously on a forum. And, if that comment received criticism, this informative and safe environment allowed me to make it disappear forever with a single click. But as the pandemic fizzled out and restrictions were lifted, the watch community I’d become a part of through various ...
Monochrome
Introducing – A New, Stylish Blue and Golden Dial For the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date
Inspired by the very first mechanical tower and table clocks that had not yet discovered the minutes hand, MeisterSinger’s disarmingly simple premise is to deliver the time with a single hand. However, a single hand is not necessarily equated with simple watches, and the brand’s repertoire includes complications like its chiming Bel Hora and moon phase […]
Fratello
Up Close With Elvis Presley’s Omega Watch
Elvis Presley was known to have a soft spot for nice watches. In 2018, Presley’s Omega dress watch, made of white gold and with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, was auctioned for US$1.8 million. The watch ended up in the Omega Museum in Biel, Switzerland. Elvis Presley’s Omega watch During my last visit to […] Visit Up Close With Elvis Presley’s Omega Watch to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Cartier Tank Américaine “Art Deco”
Launched quietly last year as limited production runs of the standard model, the Tank Américaine “Art Deco” gives a striking new look to a familiar model that was first introduced in 1989. Though the Art Deco-style dial is mostly associated with the low-cost (and low-end) Tank Must de Cartier, it has been artfully applied to the Américaine with varying surface finishing and thoughtful details. The result is a Tank Américaine that looks radically different from the standard model, while being priced the same. Initial thoughts The Tank Américaine was conceived as a modern take on the Tank Cintrée, but because of its wider availability, numerous variants, and comparatively affordable pricing, the Américaine has become something of a poor cousin in the eyes of enthusiasts. The new variants of the Tank Américaine, however, are clearly trying to change that. They look and feel more upscale with the “Art Deco” dials that do away with the central seconds, which are long standard for automatic versions of the Tank Américaine. The yellow gold version Both are identical in dimensions. The case is a little wider and thicker than the Cintrée, so it’s not quite as elegant. And the 1899 MC movement inside is in-house but industrial and not as sophisticated as the manual-wind calibres (that are either Piaget or Jaeger-LeCoultre) in the Cintrée. But the Américaine “Art Deco” is more affordable, with the yellow gold version priced a little over US$16,000. The “Art...
Fratello
Wear A Rolex If You Want To Be Different - A Rolex Perpetual 1908 Dress Watch, That Is
Wearing a Rolex signals different things. The most obvious ones are success and money. Conformity is another one. Wearing a watch from The Crown is like saying, “I made it, and I want everybody to know it.” I’m sorry, Rolex fans who admire the brand for its technical innovations, achievements, et cetera. For most, the […] Visit Wear A Rolex If You Want To Be Different - A Rolex Perpetual 1908 Dress Watch, That Is to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Piece Unique Chopard, A London Tank Allongée, And An Art Deco Purse Watch
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold Burgundy
While the original Seamaster 300M from 2019 was a no-frills, James Bond-inspired watch, the Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold and Burgundy is a refined evolution of the design that employs Omega’s proprietary gold alloy. Used by Omega as well as its sister company Blancpain, Bronze Gold is an alloy of bronze, palladium, silver, and 37.5% gold - making it a 9k gold alloy - that has enhanced corrosion resistance while having the warm hue of bronze but without the accentuated patina that accompanies conventional versions of the metal. Aside from the Bronze Gold case and burgundy bezel, the design remains virtually unchanged, retaining the signature “twisted” lugs of the Seamaster. Initial thoughts Omega has introduced several variants of the model since the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition, among them the recent “No-Date”. This time-only design, which omits the date window, has enjoyed commercial success, highlighting the appeal of a cleaner dial, especially on a watch with some vintage flavour. In this context, the Seamaster 300M Bronze Gold is a natural evolution of the collection, bringing it upmarket as is the norm for a successful model. The upgrade, however, comes at a price. At US$13,900 on a rubber strap, the Bronze Gold edition is more than twice the price of the steel model. And the version on a matching Bronze Gold mesh bracelet costs a whopping US$27,900. Granted, the new Seamaster 300M is gold, but not really, since it’s a 9k alloy, which is far below th...
SJX Watches
IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery
IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-03 Astro
A few months back at a watch collector’s get together, I was asked by a friend how we at Worn & Wound decide what to write about when it comes to new releases. It’s a good question. Obviously, we can’t cover everything, so decisions have to be made somewhere about what we devote time and energy to, and what we ultimately think is less essential. Obviously, there are a number of brands that are almost always going to be somewhat newsworthy and of interest to our readers, and they tend to be prioritized. There are also watches that are of a more personal interest to some of us, maybe less commercial, but still noteworthy in some respect. A category, though, that almost always makes it through, is when a watch comes around that makes me want to check off the “unique” button in our content management system. Not a diver, not a dress watch, not sport or tactical. A watch that can only or primarily be described as “unique” is almost always going to get a pass. Bell & Ross has a knack for these, and the latest is the BR-03 Astro, a 999 piece limited edition inspired by nothing less than outer space, and our own solar system. Bruno Belamich, the brand’s co-founder and creative director, says he was inspired specifically by the view of the earth from the observation dome, the Cupola, of the International Space Station. The dial is blue aventurine (obviously evoking a star filled sky) with the brilliant blue, spherical representation of earth at its center. An engr...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Funky Speedmaster, a Hamilton LED, and a Beautiful Benrus with the Full Kit
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus Starting off this week with a classic Benrus 3 Star vintage dress watch. The yellow gold fill case has a nice slim bezel and slim lugs, and is in excellent condition. The silver dial has a really neat radial brushed finish that radiates outward to the right from the 9 o’clock side, very unusual. There is a gold framed round date window at 6 o’clock that has a matching round date magnifier window in the original acrylic crystal. The watch comes on a gold tone stretch bracelet that probably isn’t original but is definitely period correct. This gem comes in the original Benrus box. Runs well per the seller, but no picture of the automatic movement. View auction here Vintage Hamilton LED Watch Another week, another vintage LED watch. These seem to be coming out of the woodwork lately for some reason. But I’m glad they are because they are just too retro-cool. This example is a vintage Hamilton with its original bracelet and box and hangtag. The watch is gold plated, with a slim, space-age case and integrated bracelet. The seller states the bracelet will fit a 7.25” wrist max, and snugly at that, so keep this in mind if you have a larger wrist. The watch runs, and ...
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