Time+Tide
When is a thin watch too thin?
Enthusiasts complain about watches being too thick all the time. What about too thin?The post When is a thin watch too thin? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Enthusiasts complain about watches being too thick all the time. What about too thin?The post When is a thin watch too thin? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
To mark the collection’s fifth anniversary, Audemars Piguet (AP) has launched seven new variants of the Code 11.59 in pink gold that are available in both 41 mm and 38 mm cases, with the 41 mm option being available with or without a chronograph. While none of the individual elements are novel (the new models are a melange of successful elements from recent launches) the new 38 mm model in navy blue – specifically the same hue as the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST – is one of the most appealing variants of the Code 11.59 to-date. Initial thoughts Though often considered a gateway to the brand’s most sought-after models like the Royal Oak, the Code 11.59 has quietly evolved into a full-fledged collection that now includes everything from simple time-only pieces to the grandest of grand complications. The new references reflect the updated Code 11.59 aesthetic introduced last year in stainless steel, which comprised an updated hand set and stamped guilloché dials in crowd-pleasing colours like navy blue and dark green. It is in this respect that the 38 mm model with navy blue dial that stands out. While not the first 38 mm Code 11.59, it is the first in a mainstream colourway. Combined with the more wearable size, this new variant adds significant appeal to the overall collection. The pricing of the new Code 11.59 depends on the size and the complication: the 38 mm models are priced at CHF27,500, while the 41 mm is available for extra CHF1,000 and the chronogr...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet has just launched its “first semester collection” that’ll take us through the first half of the year. Most are variations of current models, with two of the most striking sharing the same dial in “smoked yellow gold”, namely the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37 mm (ref. 15550BA) and the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm (ref. 26240BA). Both are fashioned in yellow gold and complemented by a striking dial with a gradient yellow gold finish, conceived to homage to the brand’s yellow gold Royal Oak models of the 1970s. Initial thoughts The smoked yellow gold finish was introduced on the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in 2022, so the new releases aren’t a surprise. Nonetheless, it is satisfying to see this dial finish on more compact models like the 37 mm ref. 15550. Between the two releases, the time-only ref. 15550 is the standout. The clean, radially brushed dial pairs perfectly with the finely grained texture of the frosted case. On the other hand, the dial finish is less punchy on the chronograph due to the traditional tapisserie guilloche. The chronograph, however, is an imposing watch overall due to its size and weight. The time-only model retails for CHF55,000, while the chronograph is priced at CHF63,000 – both sit in the current range for similar Royal Oak models. Neither is a value proposition, though both are appealing variants of the design. Smoked yellow gold dials Both new launches are variants of existing models, compact Royal ...
Quill & Pad
Origine by Sylvain Pinaud is an essentially simple watch telling only the time with three hands. The commitment to execution puts him on a level with some of the greats and is a good indicator that we will see a lot more from this burgeoning young brand.
Hodinkee
How JLC's Italian distributor helped the brand bring back its unique flipping watch in the '70s.
Fratello
Cartier introduced three sizes of new Tank Must models in 2021. The Tank Must debuted in the 1970s, but we hadn’t seen any new models for years. Now it’s available again in “extra-large,” “large,” and “small” versions. The extra-large model features a self-winding 1847 MC caliber with central seconds and date, while the large and […] Visit Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Five years since opening its first concept store in London, Phillips has now officially launched Phillips Perpetual in Hong Kong. Conceived as a conduit for collectors to buy and sell watches between the biannual auction seasons, Perpetual is located in Pedder Building, a 1920s Beaux-Arts style located in the Central business district. Established in 2019 with a showroom in London and led by James Marks, Perpetual is the private-sale arm of the auction house that allows clients to buy and sell anytime, instead of during the traditional May and November auctions. Perpetual operates physical stores in London and Hong Kong, along with a seasonal pop-up in Gstaad, as well as its e-commerce platform. The Hong Kong outpost strengthens its foothold in Asia, home to many of Phillips’ important clients. Something for everyone As with its London store, the Hong Kong boutique’s offerings will continually evolve. At opening, however, Perpetual in Hong Kong showcases diversity in terms of brands, complications, and styles. The flagship offering is a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G-010, the brand’s most complicated wristwatch boasting a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, second time zone, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. Another highlight is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F.A. Lange” in Honey Gold launched in 2010 to mark the 165th birthday of its founder. Setting it apart from the earlier Lange 1 Tourbillon is a larger a...
Hodinkee
Plus a Senator Excellence from Glashütte Original, and a Radiomir GMT from Panerai.
SJX Watches
To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...
Quill & Pad
The term ‘dress watch’ is as ambivalent as 'ultra-thin.' There are no fixed parameters to guide whether a watch is a dress watch or not so Martin Green has made his own definition and highlights 4 dress watches that you might not have considered.
Monochrome
Louis Erard continues its path onwards and upwards with yet another artistic iteration of its Excellence Petite Seconde. A flagship model at Louis Erard since 2020, this model is an attractive dress watch with a small seconds counter available in 39mm and 42mm cases. The uncluttered dial of the Petite Second has been treated to […]
Revolution
Before the “A Journey Through Time” symposium session at Cartier’s flagship boutique in ION Singapore, Wei had the opportunity to catch up with Shary Rahman, an esteemed collector and a friend of Revolution. They discussed his Cartier collecting journey, during which we had an exclusive chance to look at Shary’s Cartier New Special Order Tank […]
Monochrome
Single-hand watches are the mainstay of German brand MeisterSinger. Proving that single-handed watches can perform multiple functions, MeisterSinger has produced a rich collection, ranging from straightforward time-only models all the way up to a sophisticated repeater or a jumping hour dive watch. Today, MeisterSinger releases three iterations of its classic time-only No.03 model in a […]
Welcome to episode 74 of A Week in Watches! Another solid week of releases, this one is dominated by one brand that just can’t stop, and the most noble of metals – titanium. There’s a new brutish military diver from the mil-spec nerds over at Tornek-Rayville, some crystallized dress watches from Baltic, a simply handsome titanium chronograph from Zenith, and a ton of stuff from Grand Seiko. Like, a ton. Check it out below, and please like and subscribe if you haven’t already! This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop and the new Formex x Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. The first collaboration between the two brands, its sci-fi-inspired style will stand out in any collection. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check them out, as well as accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 74 – A Great Week for Fans of Titanium (and the Grand Seiko Snowflake) appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Today, we’ll take a look at a relatively nondescript Universal Genève Microtor dress watch. It’s worth a deeper look for several reasons, though. The condition, the case material, and the purpose for its existence all come together to create a lovely package. This is a lovely piece on its own, but why not explore the […] Visit Vintage Watches: A Universal Genève Microtor Dress Watch In 9K Gold to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! eBay Finds #92 Vintage Hamilton Octagonal Men’s Watch We have a neat one to start off this week, a vintage circa 1970’s Hamilton octagonal gold plated presentation watch with the Exxon logo on the dial. I love these company branded dials, they really provide a unique look. The gold plated case looks new, and has an octagonal shape with both polished and brushed finishes, with a steel snap-on caseback. The white dial is clean as a whistle, with simple stick markers and hands, a day/date window at 3 o’clock, and of course the Exxon logo above the 6. It comes on a stretch bracelet that also has brushed and polished finishes and compliments the watch perfectly. Best of all this gem comes with inner and outer boxes and the original hang tag! View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin Here’s a sweet vintage Lord Elgin dress watch from 1953. The 24k gold filled case measures 25mm wide, and has fancy bowtie hooded lugs. The case is in nice shape, with no wearthrough on the lugs, but I do see some brassing on the crown side of the case. The white dial is absolutely immaculate, with applied gold markers that are alternating Arabic numerals and little stars. Great piece that would look sha...
Monochrome
Taking its inspiration from yesteryear’s rudimentary tower and table clocks, MeisterSinger has built a solid brand around a rather unusual premise: all its watches are equipped with a single hand. Although a single hand might be equated with simple watches, MeisterSinger defies expectations and has escalated the complications ladder with everything from calendar indications to […]
Worn & Wound
One of the real pleasures of being involved in this hobby is being surprised when a brand you thought you had a good understanding of completely subverts expectations. I like it when watch brands genuinely seek to try something different and new (even if it doesn’t work). It’s so easy, especially once you’ve tasted success, to keep doing the same thing over and over, repeating a successful formula. But a brand that takes risks is inherently more interesting, and I always find myself drawn to those outlier watches – it’s almost as if they have something to prove, and I find that endearing. Baltic’s latest, the Prismic, falls into that category for me. And that’s not to say that Baltic hasn’t surprised us before by taking a left turn unexpectedly. I don’t think anyone expected them to unveil a perpetual calendar for Only Watch, for example. But I don’t think even the most forward thinking watch enthusiasts had something like the Prismic on their bingo card. Baltic, a brand known primarily for their interpretations of a classic sports watch aesthetic, has gone and made something that nods more to jewelry than the divers and racing chronographs they’ve made to this point. According to Baltic, the Prismic is a watch inspired by geometric shapes and how light refracts through a prism. The end result is a dress watch with quite a bit more bling than we’re accustomed to seeing from Baltic. This is a watch that’s designed with an aesthetics rather th...
Monochrome
A still relatively young brand that has always infused vintage flair in its watches, Baltic and its founder, Etienne Malec, have a keen eye for design and retro charm. Whether it’s a classic dive watch, a pair of sector dial watches with stepped bezels, a chronograph for classic car racing or a Calatrava-styled watch that […]
Worn & Wound
Building on a rich heritage spanning over 165 years, Swiss watchmaker Vulcain continues to draw attention in the watch industry with each new reissue. Under the leadership of Guillaume Laidet, Vulcain’s Chief Revival Officer, the brand has been on a trajectory of reinterpreting its iconic timepieces, breathing new life into past references. Since 2022, Vulcain has been setting the tone for each season with strategic launches of emblematic collections, including the Cricket, Skindiver, Nautical, and more. Today, Vulcain has rereleased another popular model, the highly anticipated Grand Prix. Originally introduced in the 1960s to commemorate Vulcain’s triumph at the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition, the Grand Prix returns with a diameter of 39mm, a great contemporary size with plenty of presence for a variety of wrists. The Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm really exemplifies Swiss elegance. Its slim and uncluttered design is a no-fuss interpretation of a clean, vintage watch that will surely garner the attention of those looking for that “Old Money” aesthetic we hear so much about on TikTok nowadays. Equipped with a Swiss Landeron automatic movement, the time-only watch features a domed crystal over a dial in Champagne, Light Grey, or Black with a semi-glossy sunray finish. With a brushed/polished steel case and polished hour markers on the dial, these vintage-inspired elements are complemented by a double-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ensuring op...
Monochrome
Qualifying as Omega’s perfect everyday watch, the Seamaster Aqua Terra collection has long represented an elegant take on the aquatic watch or, conversely, a dress watch with a sportier vibe – take your pick. Over the years, we’ve seen countless editions of this watch, specifically following its facelift in 2017. It’s also been a testing […]
Time+Tide
Previously a Chinese exclusive, this dapper dress watch is now available worldwide - which is a very good thing.The post This Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle in green is the quintessential dress watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
This Chinese zodiac assigns an animal to represent each lunar new year, cycling through the 12 animals who according to myth came down from heaven to help the Chinese people celebrate the spring. This year is the year of the dragon, which promises to bring good fortune and strength-and, of course, year of the dragon special edition watches. Worn & Wound has already covered some of the best ones out there, but one article (and even two) isn’t enough to cover them all. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph might be the most beautiful year of the dragon watch to come out thus far. The wine colored dial with gold numerals and hands that just ooze luxury, and pays tribute to the Chinese new year on its movement, which features an intricately carved gold dragon rotor. The watch comes with a black calfskin strap, but the rubber strap in a wine that matches the dial provides a stunning complement. IWC has done a few Chinese new year models in the past-this one is far and away the best. The brand’s year of the rabbit had a similar wine and gold coloring, but lacked a two-subdial chronograph complication like the year of the dragon. 2022’s year of the tiger was a chronograph but as a three-subdial chronograph with day and date windows, the dial just feels crowded and lacks the more elegant simplicity of this year’s model. And the metal work on the dragon rotor blows away the last two years’ animal rotors. Tag Heuer uses the inverse color scheme of the special edition Portugi...
Hodinkee
Plus a Breguet Hora Mundi and a green JLC Reverso.
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