Dress Watches · Page 47

Furlan Marri, with an Assist from Revolution and Auro Montanari, Unveil their First Mechanical Chronograph

Furlan Marri came on to the scene in 2021 with a series of highly regarded chronographs using meca-quartz movements. If you weren’t around for the legitimate hysteria around these watches, well, you missed one of the key viral moments within our community from the last few years. These chronographs were a sensation, and if you had a chance to handle or own one, it’s easy to see why. They nailed all the right vintage cues, and somehow achieved an immaculate level of finishing in a watch that retailed for just $330 (though at the peak of their hype, they traded for much more on the secondary market). Still, at the time, many in the community openly wondered about the possibility of a mechanical version of these watches at some point down the line. Only a few years later, Furlan Marri has followed up that initial meca-quartz release with a trio of time-only mechanical references, as well as a truly bonkers perpetual calendar for Only Watch. Now, at long last (but not that long – again, the brand is only a few years old) Furlan Marri has unveiled their first mechanical chronographs, a series of watches that always seemed inevitable.  This collection is actually a collaboration of sorts between Furlan Marri and our friends at Revolution, as well as noted collector Auro Montanari, known to many in the community by his pen name, John Goldberger. Montanari was an early supporter of Furlan Marri, and it’s not unreasonable to say that his approval of these affordable but ve...

Men's Watch Gift Guide 2023: 55 Watches for the Holidays

The holiday season is upon us once again, leaving us all with our three usual questions: Where exactly did 2023 go? Where will I be to ring in the New Year? And what is the perfect watch gift for each of my family members and friends who share my passion for timepieces? We can't help you with the first two questions, but we're definitely here for you on the third. Here, we've put together a list of watches in several categories, with various types of recipients in mind, at a variety of price points. Best of all, many of these watches are available right here in our online shop. For the sophisticated gent: Seiko Presage SRPB43 Price: $319, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 11.8mm, Lug to Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Automatic Seiko 4R35 The “Cocktail Time” series within Seiko’s automatic-only Presage family of attainable, attractive dress watches are designed to evoke the types of high-end cocktails served at Japan’s famously atmospheric rooftop bars. This model with a stainless steel case and a sunray ice-blue dial takes its nickname and inspiration from a classic Martini. The glossy-finish dial’s ridged, rippling edges help give it the look of a birds-eye view inside the cocktail glass; the tone-on-tone date window is a subtle but impressive bonus at this price point, as is the in-house, automatic movement inside. The 40.5-mm case is topped by a box-shaped crystal made of a proprietary Seiko material called H...

Hublot’s Big Bang Integrated Time Only is the modern essence of the brand

Porthole-shaped cases and innovative materials with a nod to Hublot's sporty, luxe origins.The post Hublot’s Big Bang Integrated Time Only is the modern essence of the brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre & Mr Porter’s latest watch collaboration pays tribute to the stylish city of Sydney

The "watchmaker's watchmaker" and high-end online retailer have teamed up on an exclusive Reverso that celebrates The Harbour City.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre & Mr Porter’s latest watch collaboration pays tribute to the stylish city of Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces Gold Toned Versions of Three of their Most Popular Watches

For nearly seven years, French watch brand Baltic has been producing at a luxury level that far exceeds its retail price point. We’re always excited to see them fill out their collection with new references, and today they add three new additions to the MR01, Bicompax, and HMS lines. Think of these new releases as sisters, if you will. Each reference combines black and, in a first for Baltic, gold PVD, for an elegant finish, but each has its own distinct personality. First there is the MR01. Best described as “small but mighty,” this 36mm reference sits comfortably on either a man’s or woman’s wrist with a 9mm case height, while also being tonally perfect to wear as your dress watch. A subsidiary seconds subdial is found at 7:00, while the rest of the dial is pared-down and handsome, featuring subtle details like Breguet numerals and leaf hands. The MR01 is powered by a Hangzhou CAL5000a automatic movement, wound via a micro rotor, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. Next up is the black-and-gold addition to the Bicompax line-up. Inspired by watches of the 1940’s, the Bicompax 02 case comes in at a comfortable 38mm. Given the time period of its reference point, it’s no wonder that much of this design was inspired by the Art Deco period. The design features a brushed sector housing the hour-markers, along with two subdials sporting a stylish azurage finish. The remaining dial is polished, introducing a subtle contrast to the overall look. Addi...

Show and Tell with the Cartier Santos-Dumont and Tank

The two faces of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon

Slim, with an impressive movement and rose engine hobnail engraving - is this the ultimate Reverso?The post The two faces of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Enamel Hokusai shows a watch as a literal work of art

JLC combine Japanese cultural heritage with Swiss precision and micro-artisanship for a new Hokusai-inspired limited edition.The post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Enamel Hokusai shows a watch as a literal work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque: 11 Complications (Plus Flying Tourbillon) are Impressive, But the Fact that it’s So Wearable is The Real Magic – Reprise

It wasn't until Ian Skellern had the opportunity to handle the four-faced Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 for himself that he understood the sheer scale of JLC’s achievement and gazed in newfound awe. Even though he had read the dimensions of Calibre 185, they were just numbers: in reality, it was much smaller and more wearable than he was expecting. Calibre 185 is by no means a small watch, but, as he reports, it is small for the sheer amount of complications packed inside.

eBay Finds: A Beautiful Vintage Zodiac, a Pair of Affordable Seikos, and an Uncommon Seth Thomas Stingray Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage 1970s Zodiac Automatic Day-Date w/ Mesh Zodiac Band  Zodiac is most well known to vintage watch collectors for their incredible Sea Wolf divers, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this early 1970’s sporty dress watch which has loads of vintage style. The silver dial has applied block steel markers, stick hands and a day date window at 3 o’clock that is opposite of the Zodiac script which gives the dial a nice balance. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and original finish, and the watch has the original signed crown to boot. A nice touch is that this gem comes on the original Zodiac signed mesh bracelet made by JB Champion. Really nice looking and subtly blingy piece.  View auction here Seiko 5 Vintage 5126-8110  Next up is a great looking vintage Seiko 5 from 1968. This model 5126-8110 has a little bit of everything. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and you can tell it is a distant relative of the Grammar of Design school of aesthetics from the King and Grand Seiko lines. The charcoal dial is super clean, with lume filled, applied steel markers and the usual day/date window at 3 o’clock. To me, the best part of this one i...

From the Lange 1 to the Zeitwerk, A. Lange & Sohne offers its unique perspective on technical innovation

Photo Report: The Collector Experience at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘The Reverso Stories’ Exhibit in NYC

Photo Report: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Exhibit Tells The Story Of An Icon

History, design, mechanics – all are on display in New York for the next few weeks.

The New Strehler Sirna: It Shocked Me!

The Strehler Sirna is first off the block for Andreas Strehler's new brand. It's a time-only watch with an off-center seconds sub dial, clean chapter rings, and a hand finished dial.

Jaeger-LeCoultre releases two new Reverso Tribute Enamel models in homage to Hokusai

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5110G Prototype Dial at Sotheby’s

One of the interesting lots this auction season in Geneva is the Patek Philippe ref. 5110G world time with a prototype dial at Sotheby’s. Scheduled to go under the hammer on November 5, 2023, the watch fitted with a monochromatic printed dial marked “Prototype”. Patek Philippe prototypes, or even prototype dials, rarely emerge in public, so this world time is notable in itself. Another recent example of a prototype was the Aquanaut prototype that sold at Antiquorum in 2019 featuring a “comet” power reserve that was never found on the regular production model. Unlike the Aquanaut prototype, however, this world time only has a prototype dial. The watch itself is a standard ref. 5110G that’s accompanied by the usual guilloche dial as well as an archive extract. According to Sotheby’s, the consignor of the watch is a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe for many years, so he presumably installed the prototype dial on a regular production ref. 5110G. Although simpler than the standard dial, the prototype dial is certainly more interesting. The central portion is a plain, flat white with black print, while the cities disc is off white. The dial is hardly fancy but possesses a clean, functional aesthetic that is strangely appealing. Moreover it runs counter to the prevailing Patek Philippe aesthetic that favours guilloche and applied numerals, making it visually unique. The simplicity of the dial, however, means it might have been a test dial installed in a proto...

New: Breitling updates the Avenger collection

Breitling updates their Avenger collection in an all new lineup with variants in time only automatic, GMT automatic and the B01 in-house chronograph.

New Release: Urwerk UR-100V Time & Culture II

In Ian Skellern's (far from humble) opinion, the Urwerk UR-100 is a breath of fresh air in the usually incredibly staid world of the dress watch. And the UR-100V Time & Culture II takes it to a whole new level.

A Lange & Söhne Gives Zeitwerk Minute Repeater the Honeygold Treatment for New NYC Boutique

A Lange & Söhne opened the doors of their latest boutique in New York City’s upper east side this week with the help of CEO Wilhelm Schmid, and a new Zeitwerk Minute Repeater rendered in Honeygold was presented to mark the occasion. That might be the poshest sentence ever to be written on this website, but don’t let that turn you away just yet, there’s an impeccably interesting watch underneath the glitz here. The Zeitwerk takes a unique approach to displaying the time, and it’s no different when a chiming complication is added to the mix. There is no hour and minute hand here, and there’s also no slide mechanism along the side of the case. It is an entirely over the top example of the kind of creative engineering the brand is capable of set into a material that is nearly as difficult to explain.  The new boutique finds itself in New York’s lovely upper east side, on Madison ave at 63rd street, directly across from the Hermès boutique. The cozy space is accented with plenty of Lange ephemera, including a monolithic installment of a Saxonia Triple Split chronograph, which includes an oversized hyper accurate recreation of the movement around back. What I personally found the most compelling, however, was the display on the south wall, which was composed of small numbered boxes, each depicting a single piece of the 684 total pieces that comprise the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour Le Merite movement. It takes up an entire wall, and imagining them all placed within ...

Review: Patek Philippe Pilot Annual Calendar Travel Time

Patek Philippe has no meaningful history of pilot’s watches, so the 2015 advent of the Calatrava Pilot collection was both an exercise in grasping at straws and a flight of fancy. The Pilot Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G breaks new ground in design while offering enough features to justify itself

Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum

The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt”

Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...

Opinion: What Makes a Great Bracelet?

We talk about them all the time, but they’re often the component of a watch that is least examined. The bracelet, whether attached to a sports watch, a dress watch, or something in between, can make or break how a watch actually wears on the wrist, and impact the overall look of a watch dramatically. And when it comes to bracelets, collectors and enthusiasts are never short on strong opinions – we all have things we love and hate, and it goes way beyond whether you prefer an Oyster or a Jubilee.  Today, members of the Worn & Wound team weigh in on the question: what makes a great bracelet? Be sure to let us know what you think in the comments below.  Zach Kazan  The question of “What makes a great bracelet?” is deceptive in its complexity. There are a variety of factors you might consider and weight as you evaluate a bracelet. Comfort and appearance, of course, are chief among them. But there’s also the idea of durability, and adjustability, and the overall cohesion of the bracelet design with other elements of the watch. I’d argue, for example, that the classic Seamaster bracelet is nice looking on its own, but perhaps not suited to the watch it’s paired with.  The fact is, I prefer wearing my watches on bracelets, particularly when they are conceived that way. A Rolex sports watch on a strap, for instance, is something I’ll never fully get behind. At a time when integrated bracelet sports watches are at the height of their popularity, there’s no sho...

Review: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum

After its initial introduction 18 years ago, the Lange 1 Time Zone with a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial has made a comeback with a second-generation model. The revival features the cal. L141.1, which adds a daylight-saving time function to the second time zone. Already one of the most complex world time watches at the time of its launch, the second-generation Lange 1 Time Zone still stands out as one of the most advanced travel watches available today. Initial thoughts This combination of a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial takes us nearly two decades back in time, as the original model was available in this same livery. It’s heartening to witness this classic pairing return, but now powered by the upgraded cal. L141.1.  Most striking is the timeless appeal of this watch. Examining it, I can’t help but think that the design has not aged, a testament to the enduring style of A. Lange & Söhne that is both formal and functional. Its longevity and continued relevance over the years are remarkable. To complement this, it’s worth noting the consistently surprising comfort provided by the relatively large case, which sits effortlessly on the wrist. Unlike typical sporty tool watches, it maintains a classical look and size that complements elegant attire, such as, of course, an airline captain’s suit. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that the readability of its dial under certain light conditions remains a significant challenge. Despite this sligh...