Dress Watches · Page 49

Review: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Titanium

Defined by its custom-design typography and restrained styling, the Slim d’Hermès is Hermès’ signature gentlemen’s watch. Though the time-only model is the best known, the collection also includes complications, including the recently face-lifted Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in titanium. Originally available only in precious metals, the perpetual calendar now has a titanium case – but with precious metal accents – along with a gently redesigned dial. While the changes to the dial are modest, they add a degree of offbeat style that is characteristic of Hermès. The second time zone display at six o’clock with its seemingly jumbled numerals Key takeaways Elegant and restrained in both design and feel, the watch is simple on its face but made interesting with quirky details like the jumbled second time zone display. The design stands out from comparable perpetual calendars without being excessive. The case is slim and proportioned just right, while the frosted finish contrasts well with the polished gold components. The Vaucher-derived movement is high quality in both construction and finish, albeit in an industrial style, though the “H” monogram decor is not for everyone, while the second time zone function has limited utility. Much of the qualities of the watch reflect Hermes’ vertical integration of the production process, which includes dial and case making. Initial thoughts At a glance the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel looks lik...

Introducing: Breitling Revamps The Navitimer In Two New Sizes (Live Pics)

This pilot's watch turned time-only is now available in 32mm and 36mm.

Early Passion, Long Journey: The search for a 1994 Lange 1

Profile: Hannelore Lass, Watchmaker and Engraver

German-born Hannelore Lass has mastered the art of engraving, but she is also a trained watchmaker. Together with her husband, independent watchmaker Christian Lass, they live with their two children on the idyllic Danish island of Fyn, a two hour’s drive west of Copenhagen. It is there that they created the 30CP, the time-only wristwatch that marked the debut of the Christian Lass brand. Hannelore’s career meandered through European watchmaking before landing her on Fyn. Having started her career at Sinn, the German brand best known for its “tool” watches, she would go on to become the in-house engraver for Vianney Halter, followed by a stint as a freelancer working with BNB Concept, before moving to Denmark with her husband to establish his eponymous brand. The burin as a watchmaking tool Crafts that concern the smallest of parts have always had a particular impact on Hannelore; the interaction of the hands with the very small was something that gave her extreme pleasure. So having finished high school, Hannelore considered watchmaking as a possible career. Living near Frankfurt at the time, she visit the Sinn, which is located in the city. It was during this visit that Hannelore experienced one of the defining moments of her life. “During the tour, we were shown a gigantic cupboard brimming with small boxes full of minuscule parts,” says Hannelore, “That’s when I knew what I wanted to do!” Image – Hannelore Lass The experience led her to send an app...

Rexhep Rexhepi Reveals the Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023

Having dropped tantalising clues about his creation for Only Watch 2023 a few weeks ago, Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi has finally taken the covers off the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. A unique creation with a brand-new movement, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch with a steel case, one that was inspired by the magnetism-resistant chronometers of the mid-20th century. Its design has clear roots in vintage watches, while the movement features an indirect centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. Initial thoughts About the half the offerings in Only Watch 2023 are from independent watchmakers, but the creations vary tremendously in their originality and effort. Amongst the independents that created genuinely new watches for the event is F.P. Journe, whose Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is the first of a new sports model and likely the only watch ever made by an independent that boasts a tantalum bracelet. At the low-effort end of the spectrum is Moritz Grossmann that added “Only Watch” to the seconds register of a regular-production model and called it a day. The RRCA sits alongside the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu as being impressively original. The RRCA has an newly-designed steel case with a removable outer back and within, a calibre that inherits the distinctive Rexhep Rexhepi aesthetic but is newly developed from the ground up. Even though it is a simple watch with just three hands, the movement is executed in the Mr ...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – RG

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader RG shares a trio of killer watches that cover a range of flavors. From complications like a big date and GMT, to simple time only affairs, there’s a lot to love with these three watches.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Mido Multifort TV Big Date – $1,200 With an impressive finishing at the price point and harkening back to the vintage TV case shape, Mido brings their own take on the steel sports watch. With some cues and derivatives from the fames Patek Philippe Aquanaut, Mido makes use of the TV case in a great way. The finishing is outstanding, like we have come to expect from the brand. And it also boasts a proprietary movement that is only shared with Certina. Other features that are very much appreciated are the sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating, see-through case back, that although not the most beautiful movement out there is still nice to look at and the compact size of 40mm in diameter with a lug-to-lug width of 46.5mm that is sure to fit the majority of wrists out there. But perhaps the one that steals the show, as it suggests in the name, is the “big date” complication. A complication normally reserved for high horology masterpieces from the like of A. Lange & Söhne and Glashüte Original. This one was an easy grab for me. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – $1,200 Christopher Ward has long been ...

Audemars Piguet Teams Up with Designer Matthew Williams

Four new Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models have been announced, along with one unique piece that make up this latest collaboration. With a mixture of yellow gold, white gold and two-tone, all pieces are co-branded with Audemars Piguet and 1017 ALYX 9SM, Matthew Williams’ own brand, on the dial and rotor. Initial thoughts It’s nice to see collaborations like this taking place. When someone with the fashion and design pedigree of Matthew Williams enters the watch space, it is always worth taking note, as they are bound to bring a fresh and unique perspective. However, here it would seem he has just taken the designs he previously made with MAD Paris and asked Audemars Piguet to make them instead. The only visual difference being that the original ones had circular brushed dials, whereas these are vertically brushed. While the variety of case size and metal is appreciated, it is clear that these designs are not original with perhaps the only real difference being that the date window has been removed from the standard Royal Oak. Having the same aesthetic treatment applied across the time-only Royal Oak, chronograph Royal Oak and Offshore is nice to see, making this a cohesive collection. And the unique piece carries pleasing contrasts with the two-tone case and dark, PVD-coated dial giving a look that seems fitting for the streetwear-savvy Williams. There has been no communication on the price of these pieces, nor how many are set to be produced. All we can be sure ...

Introducing: The New Brew Metric Automatic

Limited to 500 pieces, Brew's Metric is a pared down and polished time-only release.

Unholy Grail: the spaciest Speedy ever, the Omega Speedmaster ‘Teutonic’

No matter how tasteful your watch collection, no matter how stuffed your portfolio is with blue chip stocks like no-date Subs, classic Heuers, or the perfect Cartier Tank, there’s probably a black sheep lurking somewhere. Your questionable choices. Your dark secrets. The one that’s horribly out of fashion, objectively unattractive, or just plain bizarre. Be … ContinuedThe post Unholy Grail: the spaciest Speedy ever, the Omega Speedmaster ‘Teutonic’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex GMT Master Ref. 16700, An Omega ‘Tintin’ Speedmaster, And An All Black Must de Cartier

Plus an A. Lange & Söhne full of hidden complications and a tribute to the early JLC Reverso.

Tissot Expands Vintage-Inspired Offerings with the Heritage 1938

Tissot has gone decidedly retro with its latest pair, the Heritage 1938 and the Heritage Small Second 1938. The designs reinterpret the brand’s watches of the 1930s, but are presented in a modern-yet-compact 39 mm case containing COSC-certified ETA movements. Initial thoughts  Tissot has been enjoying success with the sporty PRX collection and the 1970s-style Sideral. However, it didn’t have many compelling dress watches in its catalogue until now. Therefore, this vintage-inspired pair captured my interest. Between the two, my preference is for the Heritage 1938, a straightforward three-hander. As one who appreciates classical proportions, I like the tasteful dial and compact 39 mm case. Having said that, “Chronometre” at six o’clock feels somewhat incongruous and could have been omitted altogether. At the same time, the small-seconds model has a date that three that just doesn’t look right. With a price of US$825 for the three-hander and US$1,050 for the small-seconds, the two are appropriately priced considering the movement and specs. Tissot’s sister company Longines offers higher-spec version of the same movements in its dress watches, but for more money. Vintage-inspired Tissot’s Heritage collection is all about reinterpreting historical timepieces. True to the name, the 1938 is reminiscent of the watches produced during the 1930s.  The 1938 is available in two variations: a three-hander and a small-seconds. The three-hander is available in either m...

New: Tudor Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition

Tudor releases two new Pelagos FXD references. The Alinghi Red Bull Racing Editions feature a chronograph and a time only watch inspired by yacht racing.

The Longines Hydroconquest is Now a True GMT

Longines’ contemporary diver that’s been in the catalogue for over 16 years, the Hydroconquest now gets an upgrade with a new complication. The Hydroconquest GMT is the first model in the line-up with a dual time zone. In contrast to the bolder-looking time-only counterparts, the new GMT is accompanied by a pared-back, legible dial complemented with a unidirectional ceramic bezel and the brand’s latest automatic calibre. Initial thoughts The Hydroconquest tends to receive less attention compared to dive watches from other brands in this price range. In my view, this can be ascribed to its dial design that was bold with oversized numerals positioned at six, nine, and 12, yet not particularly distinctive. Longines probably realised this and smartly developed a new timepiece with a practical complication while tweaking the dial layout and getting rid of these oversized numerals. The shift from oversized numerals to more conventional indices is particularly notable on the green and brown dials where the colours underscore the carefully thought-out design. Purists might argue for eliminating the date window to further streamline the dial, though that would remove one of the key elements of a traditional GMT watch.  The Hydroconquest GMT is priced at US$2,675 on a NATO strap, with a rubber strap or steel bracelet available for an extra US$100. This is good value, particularly since the watch includes a bona fide GMT function with an independent local-time hour hand, all f...

Patek Phillipe Calatrava Ref. 6007A: A Very Un-Calatrava Calatrava – Reprise

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6007A marked a physical and spiritual shift for the brand and may be one of the most un-Calatrava Calatravas of recent memory. Joshua Munchow takes a look at what made this model an outlier and also why it simultaneously didn't come from left field.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris Plant

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Chris Plant, aka @mister_wrist_er on Instagram, gives us a look at a trio of watches from his own collection that fit the $5,000 collection bill perfectly. These watches suit his lifestyle and needs, which you can read more about on his own blog, misterwrister.ca, where he documents his horological journey, including the three watches below. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The three watches that I chose make up a perfectly balanced collection for me. I have the rugged, Swiss quartz dive watch that will never fail me even in the deepest depths, the deliciously vintage inspired dress watch for life’s more refined situations, and a steel sports watch that has the ideal mix of historical significance, robust capability and generational provenance. Tissot Seastar Chronograph 1000 (Ref. T120.417.17.041.00) – $550   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Mister Wrister (@mister_wrist_er) When I began building my watch collection, I needed to find a watch that would become my Go Anywhere Do Anything choice. I had several criteria in mind. Firstly, it needed to be a watch capable of keeping up with my lifestyle, whether it was running with my Pomsky puppy in the park, wandering across the busy streets of Montreal, or hiking on one of the numerous mountain trails outside city. Secondly, it had to be a dive watch. Strapping on...

Raging Against the Machine in Talkeetna, Alaska: The Impossible Watch Company

Impossible Watch Company, based in Talkeetna, Alaska, has a name with a double meaning. Chris, the owner of the brand, told me he called it “Impossible” because it seemed like such a tall task for a watch industry outsider to get a brand off the ground. “I had to jump through so many hoops,” he said, referring to the start-up process and the various logistical challenges he faced when starting the company. And Chris has other irons in the fire besides his watch brand – he’s an old school entrepreneur with hugely varied interests, making Impossible Watch Company (IMP for short) even more of a challenge. And yet, here he is, with a growing following on Instagram, and a website full of sold out listings. As a friend pointed out to him after the brand started to gain some traction, the name works in the case of success too: “I M Possible.”  On the one hand, IMP is not unlike a whole bunch of other small, independently run brands. It’s a one man operation, and the watches have a vintage inspired aesthetic that will naturally garner comparisons to those made by Furlan Marri, Baltic, and others. But look closer, and there’s something else happening here, something equal parts compelling (in terms of the watchmaking) and subversive. Sure, there’s a sector dial chronograph in the collection that on the surface has some fairly obvious similarities to watches made by those brands mentioned above. But there are also time only watches with sterile stone dials. An...

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Chronograph arguably won Watches & Wonders 2023

At this point, Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like it was both yesterday and a year ago. Ultimately, it’s well away in the rear view mirror. Four months later, however, it becomes clear which novelties were the big standouts. It’s the ones still stuck in your mind after the excitement of the fair has passed, … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Chronograph arguably won Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original’s Latest Limited Edition Continues their Recent Tradition of Fun, 70s Inspired Chronographs

In what is becoming an unlikely summer tradition Glashütte Original is back with a pair of chronographs in fun, 1970s inspired colors. For each of the last two years, the German brand has introduced limited edition versions of their excellent Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, an integrated bracelet sports watch that you’d be forgiven for forgetting was in GO’s catalog given that the lion’s share of watch enthusiast attention is placed on the watches that make up the Pano collection. Their vintage inspired designs, however, tap into a completely different, funky aesthetic that the brand owns every bit as convincingly as the more formal watches under the Pano umbrella, and the annual release of colorful, limited edition chronos has become a highlight.  While Glashütte Original has opted for loud and bright colors in past limited edition drops, this year they’ve gone for something a little more muted. The “Golden Bay” chronograph is in an unusual ochre shade, and appears as a somewhat dull golden tone. It vaguely resembles a dial that might have been exposed to weather and harsh sunlight for decades, which fits into the 70s vibe nicely. The “Ocean Breeze” variant is a more obviously seasonal shade of light blue, clearly inspired by summer beach getaways. Both variants have a matte lacquer finish, and are accented with black subdials for the chronograph.  It’s worth noting here that the chronograph functionality in this reference is anything but run of...

The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds embodies the classical dress watch

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Stephen Damico

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Stephen Damico of strapsense breaks down a brilliant three watch collection that covers a fair amount of bases, and takes advantage of new releases to maximum effect. This is a great use of the entire budget and represents a safe bet on long term enjoyment. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. We watch lovers really enjoy a good hypothetical watch challenge. It usually involves a seemingly sparse number of watches and a ‘realistic’ budget of some kind. The origins of these subjective limits vary depending on present company and how much alcohol has been consumed but they are a necessary evil to bookend the discussion and prevent the conversation into devolving into how you will pull off the perfect bank robbery to fund your purchase. There are very few singular purpose watches in the world (think PolProf or Calatrava) as most timepieces comfortably fit in two or more categories making three watches a fitting number for a collection without being exceptionally strict. The total of 5,000 dollars is completely arbitrary but is large enough to make buying 3 cool watches possible, while simultaneously small enough that it is approachable to a wider audience and forces one to shop away from some of the major well known big dollar favorites. I have a website called strapsense. As a fun hobby, I love to buy and review watch straps and giv...

Men's Business Watches: 20 Timepieces for 20 Professions

We've all heard of "dressing for success," and the sage advice on dressing for "the job you want, not the job you have." These wardrobe rules of thumb also apply to the watch one wears to go to work, whether your workplace is a corporate office, a restaurant kitchen, a science lab, an aircraft cockpit or anywhere in-between. Here we've listed 20 occupations and suggested a proper timepiece for each. The list is, of course, quite subjective, so please feel free to add your own alternatives in the comments. We'll likely be updating this list regularly, so if you've got an occupation that's not covered here, plus an idea of the perfect watch for it, do chime in with that as well.  Bank CEO: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119R ($31,940) A corner-office executive needs a watch that projects understated style as well as classical luxury, and perhaps no brand embodies that ethos better than Patek Philippe, which recently added a hobnail “Clous de Paris” bezel, first used on the classic Ref. 3919, to its iconic Calatrava (Ref. 6119R). The watch comes in at 39mm in either rose gold or white gold - larger than its 36mm predecessors but still elegantly sized and also very thin at just over 8mm high. The harmoniously balanced, creamy white dial - with Roman hour numerals on the rose-gold model, gray-to-black with applied indexes on the white-gold - features a recessed small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a railroad minute track on the periphery. Inside is Patek Phil...

Pre-Owned Picks: A Close-Up Of A Grand Seiko, A Dual Time Vacheron Overseas, And A Cartier Tank Américaine In Full White Gold

Plus a PanoReserve from Glashütte in this week’s selection.

Vintage Watches: What This Vintage Cartier Tank Cintrée Tells Us About The Future Of Restoration

A platinum Tank Cintrée recently sold for more than $350,000 – but should it have?

Review: The New A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum

The Lange 1 Time Zone is one of the most quintessential timepieces from modern-day A. Lange & Söhne. It is the only Lange 1 watch that is travel-themed, and the most specialised travel watch that the brand offers. Since its debut in 2005 – about ten years after the brand’s renaissance – numerous variations of the model haveRead More