Dress Watches · Page 59

Weekend Edition: Newness From Cartier And Vulcain. A Basketball Bonanza. And Alpina Pulls Up To The Bumper

Read on for the week in drops, watch news, and Hodinkee editors in tank tops.

New: Cartier relaunches the Tank Française

The Cartier Tank Française is a classic and timeless watch that exudes luxury and style. The design of the watch is sleek and elegant, with clean lines and a simple, yet sophisticated look. The case finishing is well-made, with attention to detail and high-quality materials used throughout. The bracelet is comfortable and the watch itself is weighty and substantial. Overall, the Cartier Tank Française is a luxurious and stylish watch.

Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure

No matter how tasteful your watch collection, no matter how stuffed your portfolio is with blue chip stocks like no-date Subs, pre-Moon Speedys, or the perfect Cartier Tank, there’s probably a black sheep lurking somewhere. Your questionable choices. Your dark secrets. The one that’s horribly out of fashion, objectively unattractive, or just plain bizarre. Be … ContinuedThe post Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier unveils new refined Tank Française range for 2023

The Cartier Tank shape has seen many changes throughout its over a century-long history. What began as the Tank Normale, shifted into the L.C., Must, Américaine, and finally, in 1996, the Tank Française. While more models followed in the 2000s, it’s the late 90s Française that’s the focus of today, as Cartier has fully refreshed … ContinuedThe post Cartier unveils new refined Tank Française range for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier (Re)Introduces the Tank Francaise

Cartier’s approach to new products is often simply to deftly reboot a bestseller after a few years or even decades. That formula was applied with great acclaim to the Tank Must and Santos-Dumont (though the Pasha revival didn’t quite meet with the same commercial success). Now Cartier is doing it for the Tank Francaise. First introduced in 1996 as the first Tank with an integrated bracelet, the Tank Francaise was a major seller for Cartier in the decade that followed. Though the model survived well into the 21st century, it remained essentially unchanged since its launch. Though visually similar to the original, new Tank Francaise is an entirely new watch, having undergone a major facelift that preserved the original outline while refining all the details. The large model in steel with an automatic movement Initial thoughts Like many of Cartier’s other entry-level models, the Tank Francaise is an appealing design at a relatively affordable price. The large automatic model in steel, for instance, retails for under US$6,000. It demonstrates how Cartier does best when it does little. The new design remains easily recognisable, even though every aspect has been revamped, ranging from the applied sticker numerals to the recessed crown. If you liked the original, you’ll probably like this one. The biggest drawback of the new Tank Francaise is simply that most of the line up is quartz, which will disappoint aficionados of mechanical watches. In fact, only one version, th...

Cartier Re-Launches the Tank Française with a star-studded campaign

The Cartier Tank Française - A Historical Overview

Introducing: Zenith's Newest Time-Only El Primero Proves Less Dial Is A Whole Lot More

While companies often focus on their most iconic watches and let old models flounder, Zenith has built the Defy line back into a strong pillar of the brand.

Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 KLUB 22

The Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein BR 03-92 KLUB 22 is the time-only model of the Grail Watch 4 Trilogy. Housed in a 42 x 42mm matte black ceramic case with a pared down ampersand logo and only three hands, it is the most distilled expression of Bell & Ross and Alain Silberstein’s design […]

A Week On The Wrist: Giving Some Long-Overdue Love To The Cartier Ballon Bleu

Sure, Cartier designers are known for more angular watches like the Tank and Santos, but could their more daring option be a traditional round watch?

Interview: Jeremy Lim of Cortina Watch on the Family Business and Longevity

With 2022 revenue of S$716.9 million (equivalent to US$532 million), Cortina Watch is one of the world’s biggest watch retailers. It was founded in 1972 as a single store but has grown into a regional giant with stores across Southeast Asia as well as outposts in Taiwan and Australia. Cortina marked its 50th anniversary this year with a slew of limited editions that reflect its importance, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057 made specifically for it. Though publicly listed, the company remains controlled by the founding Lim family, with the third generation having recently joined the business. A crucial member of management is Jeremy Lim, the younger son of Cortina founder Anthony Lim. Jeremy helms the business alongside his siblings Raymond and Sharon. I spoke with Jeremy recently to uncover the factors behind the longevity and success of Cortina. Three generations of the Lim family, with Jeremy Lim second from left. Image – Cortina Watch SJX: When Cortina was founded 50 years ago by your father, it was one of many watch stores in Singapore. But now Cortina is one of the few left, in fact it’s one of the biggest in the region. What is the secret to the longevity and success? Jeremy Lim (JL): We were lucky that we had a lot of help from the family when my dad started the business with my mom. [My brother] Raymond started early in the business, then my sister got interested in the business as well, and subsequently I was reeled in. The old school method o...

Best of 2022: Value Propositions

We’ve gone through the year’s best watches from independent watchmakers and establishment brands, as well as the most notable complications. Nearly all of the watches on those lists, however, are pricey. So now we round up the best affordable watches of the year, namely those under US$5,000. Put another way, these are the best value proposition of 2022, both in nominal and relative terms. As has become the norm, Tudor is shoo-in when it comes to value propositions. A streamlined version of its deep-sea dive watch, the Pelagos 39 is compact, lightweight, and minimalist. The case is 39 mm and all titanium, while the dial does away with the date but includes a line of red text in a nod to vintaged dive watches.  While much about the watch has been simplified, the details of the Pelagos 39 are fancier than usual. Both the dial and bezel insert are radially brushed – a matte metallic finish for the dial and brushed ceramic for the bezel – giving the Pelagos 39 a more reflective finish than its peers. When it comes to dress watches, the Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is amongst the best, particularly at its US$2,000-ish price. It features a dial that appears to be highly elaborate with Breguet hour numerals that appear to be hand engraved. Naturally the dial is made by machine, but it is done convincingly enough that has a strikingly appealing aesthetic. Thanks to the dial, the watch certainly punches above its price segment. And like many Longin...

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver recreates a cruelly overlooked Bond watch

Anyone who knows me knows I’m a sucker for all things 007. The action, the intrigue, the charm, the gadgets… and most of all, the watches. The Rolex Submariner, the Breitling Top Time, the Omega Seamaster, the Seiko Golden Tuna, and even the Gruen Precision dress watch from Dr No, they’ve all shaken my martini. … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver recreates a cruelly overlooked Bond watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Tutima Patria Small Second Blue & Gold

With its name first appearing on watches as early as 1927, Tutima have had a tumultuous yet resilient history. You may not be as familiar with them as some other German watchmakers, but they nonetheless excel in all corners. This latest release for the brand is quite a unique take on a traditional dress watch, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tutima Patria Small Second Blue & Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vintage Watches: A 1972 Rolex 'Red' Submariner, A 2000s A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, And A 1970s Patek Philippe

Last chance to add an expertly curated vintage watch to your collection before the year is over!

Up Close: Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde

While Blancpain is best known for its retro dive watches and triple calendars, the brand’s catalogue includes a surprisingly broad range of complications, especially for a brand of its scale (but the fact that the brand is part of Swatch Group clearly helps). One of its most interesting recent complications is the Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, the first Blancpain watch with either a jumping hours or retrograde display. Despite the lengthy name, the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde, from now on simply THSMR, is a simple watch on its face, but one executed in an elaborate manner with details that speak to its quality. The dial is champlevé enamel with a symmetrical time display and “floating” flying tourbillon, while the movement has a six-day power reserve and bridges finished with guilloche. Initial thoughts Unlike most of Blancpain’s complications that formal and busy, the THSMR is an elegant watch with an almost minimalist design. The fired enamel dial has a figure-of-eight display that gives it almost perfect symmetry, except for the charmingly quirky hour window that is off-centre but just right. And up close the tourbillon appears to be “floating” thanks to a clear sapphire lower bridge. It is a fairly large watch as most Blancpain watches now are, though it’s not too thick at just over 11 mm high. But the size is grounded in its mechanics: the cal. 260MR is a sizeable movement with an impressive six-day power r...

Reverso Stories - Celebrating Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Enduring Icon

Go modern vintage with the Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9

There is a strong allure to the simple time-only watch. Without all the complications to distract us, these watches instead rely heavily on their design. And more than anything, the design of a watch is what stays with us the longest. Just think about it. History is littered with such enthralling references; from the Panerai … ContinuedThe post Go modern vintage with the Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3/6/9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vintage Watches: A 1951 Audemars Piguet, A 1972 Movado El Primero 'Pilot,' And A 1960s Universal Genève Polerouter Date

Led by a stunning time-only Audemars Piguet, this week's drop is our best in December by far.

Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis

Netflix’s Addams Family spin-off Wednesday has taken the world by spooky storm, with Jenna Ortega’s self-choreographed dance scene going certified viral. But, while much attention has been given to Ortega’s performance as Wednesday Addams, watch enthusiasts may have clocked Game of Thrones actor Gwendoline Christie sporting a Cartier Tank Louis Large in her role as Nevermore … ContinuedThe post Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pre-Owned Picks: Six Dress Watches To Carry You Into The Winter Months

End the year in style.

Hands On: IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar

IWC has a suite of instantly recognisable models synonymous with the brand, namely the Pilot’s Watches and of course, the Portugieser. But one collection does get as much recognition as its peers, despite being almost 40 years old. Named after the famous seaside city in Italy, the Portofino was introduced in 1984 (though the inaugural model didn’t yet have the Portofino name at the time) as an oversized pocket watch-style wristwatch, something of a clarion call to persist with mechanical watchmaking after the Quartz Crisis. Now the brand has revived one of the classics from the line with the Portofino Perpetual Calendar. At 40 mm in diameter, it’s the most compact of IWC’s perpetual calendars and is equipped with an in-house movement from the 82000 family. Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar is a sought-after complication for its utility but also its aesthetics, especially when it includes a moon phase, which adds a touch of romanticism to the design. IWC’s latest take on the complication is straightforward, practical, and priced reasonably enough. In fact, it’s essentially a visually-simplified version of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, which uses the same movement but inside a larger case. While not revolutionary in technical terms, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is a solid performer with a concise design. It retains all the features that made the 1990s original appealing but adds a few contemporary touches in both design and the in-house base m...

The Spec Sheet: Going Art Deco With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Put your JLC down, flip it and reverse it.

Insight: Fine Watchmaking Market Map in 2022

For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...