Dress Watches · Page 59

Piaget Presents the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Unique Piece

Introducing: The New Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Is The Most Hypnotic Tank Ever

Just look at that dial.

Introducing: The Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise Brings Back A Classic From The Roaring '20s

Tanks for the memories.

Cartier Introduces the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise

After having reimagined signature models like the Tank Cintree and Tank Asymetrique, Cartier now turns it attention to something less well known. The Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise arrives just in time for the 100th anniversary of the original Tank Chinoise, which was inspired by traditional Chinese architecture. Unlike past Cartier Privé models that adhered closely to earlier versions of the model, the new watch takes more liberty in reimagining the Tank Chinoise, which was last available in 2004 as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). A 1930 Tank Chinoise of the type that inspired the 2004 CPCP version Initial thoughts For fans of the 2004 Tank Chinoise, which was very square yet made up of rounded edges and lines, the new model will be jarringly different with its angular form. Yet for anyone who appreciates a traditional Tank, the new Chinoise is more like a Tank than any past version of the design. I like the redesigned case. Where I would have wished for something different is the dial, which repeats the same elements found in past Cartier Privé models; a bolder dial would have gone better with the restyled case. However, Cartier certainly went all out with the skeleton version, which is striking and original. It comes close to being too much with its Chinese-inspired motifs, but not quite, so it still looks and feels tasteful. Allongée The new Tank Chinoise is akin to a Tank Allongée – it’s an elongated version of the earlier CPCP Tank Chinois...

Introducing: Cartier Takes The Tank Must To The Dark Side

And the Tank Louis Cartier comes along for the ride.

Cartier Introduces the Masse Mystérieuse

Cartier’s wide-ranging new launches at Watches & Wonders 2022 naturally encompasses new takes on its historical designs, including the Tank Chinoise and lacquered Santos-Dumont. But its most extraordinary creation stands apart from the brand’s contemporary timepieces. The Masse Mystérieuse is essentially a floating movement within an oscillating weight. As the weight oscillates around the central axis of the dial, it winds the mainspring contained within itself. Initial thoughts Cartier abandoned its once ambitious push into highly complicated watches when its current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took charge in 2016. Mr Vigneron has stated publicly on several occasions that Cartier should not stray from its historical strength in simple, elegant watches in unusual forms. So the Masse Mystérieuse is definitely atypical, but that doesn’t take away from its fascinating mechanics. The complexity and creativity of its mechanics bring to mind an earlier era of Cartier watchmaking. While Cartier states that the Masse Mystérieuse was eight years in the making, it doesn’t mention who was responsible for the idea. It goes without saying that is was Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the former head of development at Cartier’s manufacture who now has the same role at TAG Heuer. The Masse Mystérieuse is instantly recognisable as her work, appearing to be evolved from the Astrotourbillon. Ingenious as it is, the Masse Mystérieuse is also similar to Ms Forestier-Kasapi’s pa...

Cartier’s Tank Chinoise Returns, More Musts, A Dazzling Coussin and Masse Mystérieuse

Cartier’s star continues to rise in 2022 with new releases such as the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise, Coussin de Cartier, Tank de Cartier and the stunning Masse Mystérieuse.

REVERSO STORIES: @Kenergy57 & his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute

To celebrate the 90th anniversary of the Reverso, we’re sitting down with a few of our Time+Tide Club members to discuss their personal watches and get an appreciation about why the Reverso enjoys such a special place in their collections. First up we have Kenneth or Kenergy as he’s better known to the Sydney watch community due … ContinuedThe post REVERSO STORIES: @Kenergy57 & his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre host Reverso celebration (and reveal the best engraving on the watch they’ve spotted in the wild)

Events are back! In what had felt like an eternity attending online watch meetups and presentations, the social calendar of in-person events has finally emerged from the Covid freeze of the last two years. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 90th Anniversary celebrations are in full swing, capturing the rich history of the Reverso along with the red-hot contemporary line-up led … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre host Reverso celebration (and reveal the best engraving on the watch they’ve spotted in the wild) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Explained: Bulgari Debuts the Thinnest Mechanical Watch

After notching up several world records for the thinnest watch in various categories, Bulgari had yet to claim the title of the thinnest mechanical watch. Piaget took the title in 2018 with the announcement of the AUC, which became commercially available in 2020. But the Roman jeweller has finally bested its rivals with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, which is an astonishing 1.8 mm tall from crystal to case back, making it the thinnest watch on the market today (and also the thinnest in decades). It’s 0.2 mm slimmer than the Piaget AUC. The Ultra is certainly less, but is it more accomplished? Initial thoughts Trumping the previous title holder by a sizeable margin of 10%, the Octo Finissimo Ultra is an impressive achievement, even though the race to the be the flattest has been ongoing for a long time. For starters, the Ultra does well in terms of design. While the design is based on the long standing Octo Finissimo, it doesn’t take away from its appeal. The Ultra is the sportiest watch among the thinnest of ultra-thin watches, with striking contemporary lines. And it is very much a watch of today, literally. The large barrel ratchet wheel is engraved with a QR code providing access to an NFT artwork that accompanies each watch. It is tacky both as an idea and also up close, but at a distance the pattern of the code could pass for a decorative motif that fills up what would otherwise be a wide open space. Keeping current But the burning question is how did Bulgari’s ...

Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

Flicking through the Guinness Book of Records, some achievements leave you furrow-browed with a mix of bewilderment and awe. Whether it’s the “most T-shirts removed while heading a football” (21) or “the world’s tallest hat” (4.8 metres), there’s no denying these are remarkable accomplishments. But while the dedication of such record breakers is beyond reasonable … ContinuedThe post Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is a fitting birthday celebration of a truly classic watch

It’s not often that a 90th anniversary is celebrated with as much grandeur as say a 50th for example, but Jaeger-LeCoultre like to celebrate a little bit differently. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième marks 90 years since the introduction of their incredible rectangular flipping watch that has remained relevant throughout every trend and fashion of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is a fitting birthday celebration of a truly classic watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week On The Wrist: The Cartier Tank Américaine In Steel

Going back to basics for the Tank's 100th birthday.

A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition '150 Years'

For an important anniversary we get a purist's take on a true classic.

A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph

The less you do, the more you do.

AWOTW: Cartier Tank Must 'SolarBeat'

The definitive Jack Forster review.

Introducing the Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel

Arnold & Son presents an ultra-thin watch made even lighter with skeletonization.

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green

Jaeger-LeCoultre are seemingly incapable of producing a watch that doesn’t melt the hearts and wallets of watch enthusiasts worldwide, as they have proven again with the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in a glowing green. The watch comes in three dial colours with matching straps including deep blue and luscious burgundy, but this green machine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”

Conceived for the jubilee of Singapore-based retailer Cortina Watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 is a throwback to the nineties in both size and size, but given a contemporary flavour with a dial in smoked grey. In fact, it is a remake of the original model, the ref. 5057R that was in rose gold. Interestingly, the reference was specifically created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary in 1997, giving the ref. 5057 the distinction of being a reference unique to a retailer. Initial thoughts Though it’s small by modern standards – it’s a bit over 36 mm in diameter – the ref. 5057G instantly stands out with its nineties style. The triple-row hobnail bezel and straight lugs instantly evoke Patek Philippe’s aesthetic of that decade. They set the ref. 5057G apart from the brand’s current offerings that have a more modern style. I like Patek Philippe’s style of that era, so I like the ref. 5057G. With the wide hobnail bezel, it’s a bit fancier than it should be, but that’s the appeal. And the bezel is the very feature that gives the watch presence. It catches the light well and is essentially “bling” for an otherwise conservative design. At the same time, the ref. 5057G is more attractive than the original model in rose gold, which lacked contrast due to its white-on-rose gold palette. By today’s standards the original is old fashioned. The ref. 5057R of 1997 that was created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary and also a limited edition of 100 wat...

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique

Many watch enthusiasts believe that the terms “icon” is overused by watch media. Fair play. But when a collection that has been consistently beloved for decades, celebrates its 90th birthday, I believe this is one of the sure moments where it is safe to label it so. Any watch lover worth their salt has heard … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Of The Week: The Cartier Tank Cintrée That Never Was

A dream watch that sends me on a brief ride through history.

Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London

The watch boutique arm of auctioneer Phillips, London-based Perpetual is staging an exhibition of early A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches in its Berkeley Square showroom for a week starting March 9, 2022. Made in Germany, a Tribute to the Early Lange 1 and Datograph comprises 20 examples of Lange’s best-known watches from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, including limited editions that rarely emerge publicly, making it an great opportunity for the brand’s enthusiasts to see special watches and even “grails” in the metal, like the extravagant Lange 1A. Pillars of the brand Arguably the most important Lange models, at least in the brand’s first two decades, are the Lange 1 and Datograph. Both were seminal when they each made their debuts in 1994 and 1999 respectively, helping to put the brand on the map. And because early days of the German watchmaker saw it debut a large number of small-run limited editions, the variety of watches from that period is particularly interesting. Lange 1A The rise in interest that Lange has recently enjoyed means many of the brand’s early or unusual watches are being rediscovered. As a result, the exhibition is perfectly timed. It focuses on the two landmark models, although the line up also includes other intriguing watches like the rare solid-back Saxonia. One of the best examples of the Lange 1 on show is the ref. 101.027X, which has a handsome blue-on-silver palette that served as the inspiration for the Lange 1 25th annivers...

Jon Bernthal is yet another actor to sport this IWC reference on the red carpet…

Look, I wish dress watches would get more attention today. The marketplace, and our wrists for that matter, are saturated with sports and tool watches. When I try to convince people to look for a classic dress watch to add to their collection, I ask them but what about a watch for when you find yourself … ContinuedThe post Jon Bernthal is yet another actor to sport this IWC reference on the red carpet… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater Ref. IW5242-02. Old but gold.

The year 1995 was as eventful as it gets. It was the year the first Toy Story movie was released, the year Operation Desert Storm officially ended, and it was the last time AFC Ajax won the UEFA Champions League. It also marked the debut of a classic IWC timepiece: the original Portugieser Minute RepeaterRead More