Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1969 Hamilton Field Watch, A 1970s Longines Ultra-Chron, And A 1960s Longines Time Only
For when time only (and maybe a date) is all you need.
Dress Watches · Page 60
Hodinkee
Deployant
Review: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G-001
The Calatrava is widely considered to be synonymous with the Patek Philippe brand. Ultra-elegant and timeless, it is seen as the very essence of the round dress watch. This philosophy of the Calatrava has been strictly held as gospel since the debut of the watch way back in 1932 – well, until this year anyway.Read More
SJX Watches
Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”
One of the more intriguing watches debuted by an independent watchmaker in the year to date is the Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, a collaboration between Hungarian watchmaker Aaron Becsei and American knife maker Todd Rexford. Conceived at the behest of a Thai collector living in Japan, the Project XX is based on Bexei’s time-only model but its case, dial, and movement plates in zirconium, a resilient metal with properties similar to titanium. Mr Becsei is already known for his high-quality movements and regular readers will remember the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie wristwatch he completed in 2019. His partner in his project is a leading artisanal knife maker whose one-off knives regularly sell for more than a Rolex Submariner, Todd Rexford. An artisan who works with metal in ways similar to a watchmaker, Mr Rexford uses the many of same tools found in a watchmaker’s workshop, like lathes, jig borers, and drills; he even makes his own screws. And he clearly works to the same tolerances since he produced the movement bridges for the Project XX. A defining element of the Project XX are its “hot hammered” zirconium components, namely the dial and movement bridges. It’s the signature material of Mr Rexford’s that he often uses for the handles of his knives. The zirconium dial and movement parts were produced and then hot hammered by Mr Rexford, resulting in a textured finish that sharply contrasts with the lustrous movement decoration applied by Mr Bexei. I...
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Breitling Introduces the Superocean Diver Inspired by the “Slow Motion”
Breitling’s recent releases have stuck to a familiar and effective formula – watches rooted in the brand’s heritage but updated to distinguish them as modern and original, exemplified by the redesigned Chronomat and Navitimer. Now the brand has taken the covers off the Superocean Automatic, a dive watch inspired by the SuperOcean Slow Motion chronograph of the 1960s. While it borrows the original’s two-tone dial and massive, oblong markers, the new Superocean is a clean, time-only watch with no complications and of course a modern construction that includes a ceramic bezel insert as well as quick-adjustment clasp. The SuperOcean Slow Motion ref. 2005 Initial thoughts I’ve always liked past versions of Superocean with bright-coloured dials because they were quite different from other dive watches without being overly fancy. By the same token, I like the latest version as the redesigned dial makes it stand out even more, once again without trying to do too much. No date is great In fact, the Superocean is arguably all about design. Being ETA powered, it is less competitive against offerings from similarly-priced offerings from likes of Tudor (which relies on more sophisticated Kenissi movements), so the Superocean has to excel in terms of look and feel. And it manages to do so with the combination of an extra-wide chapter ring around a “mini” dial, a bold and handsome design that is unlike most of its peers. Aside from the overall design, the dial also appe...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1976 Audemars Piguet Automatic Dress Watch, A 1978 Rolex Submariner, And A 1940s Universal Genève Climate-Proof
You'd be hard-pressed to find three brands more core to HODINKEE Vintage than AP, Rolex, and Universal.
SJX Watches
Gerd R. Lang Returns with the Lang 1943 Field Watch
Once synonymous with Chronoswiss which he founded in 1983, Gerd-Rüdiger Lang is now almost 80 but returns with an all-new brand, Lang 1943. Created in partnership with entrepreneur Georg Bartkowiak, the brand’s inaugural watch is the Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One. Modelled on the wristwatches issued by the British army during the Second World War, the Field Watch is a modern watch with a vintage flavour that’s powered by a restored 1960s movement. Initial thoughts A military-inspired time-only watch is not a novel concept, and the Field Watch sticks to the traditional design, resulting in a watch that is recognisably similar to the Second World War watches made by the likes of Cyma, IWC, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Lang 1943 isn’t the only brand offering such a watch at the moment; the revived Vertex brand has a similar offering with the M100A and it has the added advantage of being one of the original suppliers during the war. But the Lang 1943 Field Watch is attractively detailed, which is likely due to its founders’ decades of experience, both as horological entrepreneurs and watch collectors. The smoked dial is appealing and sets this apart as a modern watch as oppose to an exact remake. Oddly enough the smoked finish does well with the faux-vintage Super-Luminova and together they give the dial a pleasing palette. One detail worth pointing out is the crosshair on the subsidiary seconds, which was not found on the Second World War originals but is a perfect fit ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Delma Montego is a classic, sporty chronograph
Producing watches from their headquarters in Lengnau, Switzerland, Delma offers a wide array of options, from ’50s-inspired dress watches to bold DLC-coated divers rated for depths of 4000 metres. After looking at the Cayman Bronze earlier this year, the watch we’re introducing today is the new Delma Montego chronograph, the brand’s take on a classic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Delma Montego is a classic, sporty chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
4 Gold Dress Watches For The Classic Gentleman: Yes, Gold Dress Watches Still Exist. Gentlemen On The Other Hand Are Ever Rarer – Reprise
Gold dress watches sometimes seem to be on the brink of extinction, and Martin Green was almost ready to write their obituary. However, they do still exist and here he presents us with four classic gold dress watches for the consideration of the discerning modern-day, yet classically inclined, gentleman.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Cartier “Model A” Mystery Clock For a Good Cause
While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1969 Rolex Explorer, A 1960s Tiffany & Co. Dress Watch, And A 1960s LeCoultre Calculator Chronograph
Plus a few Vulcain Crickets!
Time+Tide
Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up?
I’ve just snapped up my very first Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it was not the JLC I expected to buy. When most people think of JLC it is the iconic Reverso that springs to mind. For some reason I’ve always hesitated, with the strange thought that I’m not grown up enough to wear one. This is unexplainable, … ContinuedThe post Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
At Watches & Wonders 2022 Vacheron Constantin introduced watches in a diverse range, but sandwiched in between the artisanal decoration and complications was a new addition to the Historiques collection of vintage remakes. An unexpected launch given that Vacheron Constantin (VC) already has a luxury-sports watch in its lineup, and largely focuses on dress watches and complications in any case, the Historiques 222 was nevertheless a highlight amongst the new launches, especially given the current appetite for such watches. But the 222 is more than just something that caters to today’s fads. It is a sympathetic remake that manages to incorporate substantial, hidden improvements while preserving the look of the original – but not the feel thanks to a significantly improved bracelet. Initial thoughts As the Overseas has long matured into an established collection amongst VC’s offerings, the return of its predecessor is surprising. My initial reaction was that it is confusing to offer two different luxury sports watch models simultaneously, but it makes sense given that the 222 is a Historiques model, a vintage remake in other words. Not only does VC have a track record of reviving vintage models in style, the 222 can cater to an audience that seeks something more elegant and compact than the Overseas. It’s likely that the return of the 222 was a deliberate decision on VC’s part to create a luxury-sports watch that is different. Of the three luxury sports watches ...
SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II
Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Day-Date in Green Urushi
A proponent of Japanese artisanal crafts, Seiko has just taken the covers off the latest watch decorated with traditional Japanese lacquer, the Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Dial Limited Edition ref. SPB295J1. Though both the craft and complications aren’t novel, the SPB295J1 is unusual for its triple retrograde display in a symmetrical layout, which is combined with a dial in dark olive urushi with and gold-powder details. Initial thoughts Like the recent pair of time-only watches with porcelain dials, the SPB295 is one of the more elegant watches in the Presage Craftsmanship line. I like the look of the SPB295 – the symmetry and uniformity make it more appealing than the standard Presage day-date watches that rely on a mix of fan-shaped and round sub-dials for the indicators. Adding to the appeal of the balanced dial layout is the colour. While green is a faddish colour now, it is executed with subtle style here; it’s an understated, dark hue that Seiko accurately describes as evoking a moss garden. And the sprinkle of gold is a nice touch – and a typical feature of traditional Japanese lacquerware – without which the dial the dial might have looked plain. My only gripe is the unusually small “31” at the end of the date scale, as well as the fact that the date numerals are four days apart, making it difficult to read the dates in between. Beyond the colour, the watch stands out for the dial layout. Unlike most Seiko Presage day-date watches, the S...
Hodinkee
Entry Level: The Least Expensive Lange Is A Precious Metal Saxonia That Rocks
The cost of entry to A. Lange & Söhne might not be cheap, but boy is it worth it.
SJX Watches
Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Limited Editions at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
We covered the independents and complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction thats happens on May 27 and 28, so now we look at highlights from a recent crowd favourite: A. Lange & Söhne. Revered for its high-quality movements and impeccable quality, the modern-day brand has only been in operation since 1994 but has managed to build a diverse body of work. A good selection is on offer in the auction, ranging from the mega complications to the simple (albeit not particularly affordable today). Here we round up six limited edition Lange watches in the sale, including a pair of rare Lange 1s to the second-most-complicated Lange ever made, the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Merite, along with a pair of Handwerkskunst editions. Bidder registration and the full catalogue for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIVis available here. Lot 816: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Sincere edition Since its debut in 1994, the Lange 1 has become an icon of the brand that remains relevant today. After almost three decades, the concept of the watch and its design essence remain intact. Only few other watches have attained such cult status, putting the Lange 1 alongside timepieces like the Calatrava and Royal Oak. The present example is a limited edition of only 100 pieces produced in 2003 for Singaporean retailer Sincere. The dial is extremely unusual as it features two different guilloche patterns, instead of the typical smooth opaline finish found on most Lange 1 watches. Even other Lange 1 models...
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Titanium and Sedna Gold
Singapore retailer Cortina Watch is marking its 50th year in 2022 with progressive launches of anniversary editions, which started with the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G that made its debut at the beginning of the year. Now it’s the turn of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary, the first of the brand’s dive watches to feature a two-tone case in titanium and 18k Sedna gold. Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is probably the best looking amongst Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms range of dive watches. It has the right degree of retro style, while also being relatively compact and wearable. And it avoids being too different, too vintage, or too big, as many of other Fifty Fathoms divers are; the Bathyscaphe is just right in many ways. The new edition is a modest variation on the original, but a good one. In contrast to the almost-monochromatic standard model, this version looks a little fancier without being over the top thanks to its gold elements. At the same time, the gold parts are balanced; the bezel, for instance, is set off by the gold crown. But the look is restrained with the brushed bezel insert and dial, so it doesn’t stray too far from the original. What the watch is missing, however, is a bracelet as it is delivered on a fabric strap as standard. Blancpain does have a titanium bracelet available as an additional purchase, however, it is not two tone though it should pair well with this watch. Retro diver Though inspired by th...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue
Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Dome Clock Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”
Longtime Patek Philippe retailer in Singapore Cortina Watch marks its 50th anniversary in 2022 with a series of limited edition watches, including the Calatrava ref. 5057G, a remake a 1997 reference created expressly for Cortina by Patek Philippe. But besides the 100-piece ref. 5057G, Patek Philippe created something even more special for the occasion, the Dome Clock ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”. Like most Dome Clocks, the Singapore Skyline is a unique piece decorated entirely in enamel, primarily cloisonné but also gold powder and paillons. The clock bears a commemorative engraving on its base The 50th anniversary clock is not for sale, instead it will join Cortina’s own collection that already includes the Dome Clock ref. 1677M “The Esplanade – Singapore”. Created in 2015 for Singapore’s 50th year of independence, the “Esplanade” Dome Clock served as inspiration for the Singapore Skyline – together the two Dome Clocks form a perfect pair. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe may be most famous today for its sports watches, but its Dome Clocks are just as emblematic of the brand. In terms of large-format timekeepers the Dome Clock is amongst the most recognisable in horology, ranking alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos and Cartier Mystery Clock as an iconic design. At the same time, Dome Clocks are exceedingly rare, with perhaps a dozen made every year. Within Patek Philippe’s repertoire of timepieces, Dome Clocks are the most artistic. Each Do...
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain
A modern-day specialty of Seiko, artisanal crafts such as enamel and porcelain are found in several of the brand’s collections across the price spectrum, although they are perhaps most associated with Seiko’s line of affordable, mechanical dress watches, the Presage. While past Presage offerings with artisanal dials were typically paired with simple complications such as a power reserve indicator or date, the latest arrival keeps the dial clean. The Presage Craftsmanship Series Arita Porcelain is made up of a pair of time-only wristwatches, the SPB239 with a white dial and the SPB319 with a light blue dial. The SPB239 is accompanied with a metal bracelet Initial thoughts The latest Presage demonstrates a progressive evolution in the watchmaker’s aesthetics. Traditionally its automatic three-handers have always had a date, but the date window usually looked out of place. That was especially so for the artisanal dials, where date distracts from the beautiful, hand-made dials. In short, the fact the new Presage moves away from the date is a good thing. Also notable is the gently sunken dial. It’s executed almost seamlessly with a clean, gentle transition between the two levels. This contrasts with past Presage models that had complications, resulting in sunken indicators. In fact, the porcelain dial brings to mind another time-only watch with an enamel dial, the Breguet Classique 7147, which has an elegantly sunken seconds. The only thing I would change about ...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “Gold Flux” Dial
Launched in 2021, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was one of the simpler models in last year’s lineup but easily appealing. It is the first Lange 1 to have a dial made of aventurine glass, or “gold flux” as Lange labels it, a material rarely found on the brand’s watches but always popular when it makes an appearance. Conceived as a mens’ watch in 1998 – the average dress watch was still about 35 mm then – the Little Lange 1 has since evolved into a feminine watch. It’s basically the Lange 1 for ladies and the base model for a variety of female watches, often in pastel colours accented with mother-of-pearl or diamonds. The new Little Lange 1 continues the theme with its sparkly dial, but it stands apart from recent models in several ways; it feels different, perhaps even masculine. We take a close look at the Little Lange 1 to weight its appeal. Initial thoughts Thanks to off-centred yet logical displays, the Lange 1 is one of the most distinctive offerings from the German watchmaker. And the starry, aventurine glass dial, along with the moon phase, create a charming, slightly whimsical appeal that isn’t present on the standard models, which are formal and serious looking. Despite the shimmering, reflective dial, the new model is understated on the wrist, thanks to its dark colours and white metal case. These tone down the sparkle of the dial, which comes from the metallic inclusions in the glass. More appealing but equally understated are the star-shaped ...
SJX Watches
English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick”
A pair of watchmakers with English roots, Fears and Garrick have banded together to create a wristwatch that bears the aesthetic of the former while relying on the mechanics of the latter, the Fears Garrick. Founded in 1846 but having gone out of business during the Quartz Crisis, Fears is an English brand that was revived in 2016 by a descendant of its founder. Though it was not in continuous operation, Fears is now one of the oldest, family-owned English watch brands. Its modern-day offerings are all about clean, simple designs inspired by watches from its past catalogue, which are sometimes paired with period-correct, vintage movements. Garrick, on the other hand, was founded in 2014. Sitting in a higher price point than the typical Fears, Garrick’s offerings are constructed with the help of Swiss specialists, including Andreas Strehler, and dressed up with traditional decoration such as engine turning. David Brailsford of Garrick (left), and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of Fears’ founder Initial thoughts The Fears Garrick is essentially a Garrick S1, the brand’s most impressive offering to date, but redesigned to give it a simpler aesthetic. Though intriguing, the open dial of the S1 has been done away with and the result is minimalist but appealing. I actually prefer the look of the Fears Garrick over the S1. But the Fears Garrick does bring to mind the IWC Portugieser, which is a good thing. For anyone who found the movement of ...
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Adam Driver Takes Over The Gucci Family Empire Wearing A JLC Reverso in 'House of Gucci'
And utters the name of a rare Patek in our watch-related movie of the week.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This
Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...
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