Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition '150 Years'
For an important anniversary we get a purist's take on a true classic.
Dress Watches · Page 62
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph
The less you do, the more you do.
Hodinkee
AWOTW: Cartier Tank Must 'SolarBeat'
The definitive Jack Forster review.
Revolution
Introducing the Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel
Arnold & Son presents an ultra-thin watch made even lighter with skeletonization.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green
Jaeger-LeCoultre are seemingly incapable of producing a watch that doesn’t melt the hearts and wallets of watch enthusiasts worldwide, as they have proven again with the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in a glowing green. The watch comes in three dial colours with matching straps including deep blue and luscious burgundy, but this green machine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”
Conceived for the jubilee of Singapore-based retailer Cortina Watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 is a throwback to the nineties in both size and size, but given a contemporary flavour with a dial in smoked grey. In fact, it is a remake of the original model, the ref. 5057R that was in rose gold. Interestingly, the reference was specifically created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary in 1997, giving the ref. 5057 the distinction of being a reference unique to a retailer. Initial thoughts Though it’s small by modern standards – it’s a bit over 36 mm in diameter – the ref. 5057G instantly stands out with its nineties style. The triple-row hobnail bezel and straight lugs instantly evoke Patek Philippe’s aesthetic of that decade. They set the ref. 5057G apart from the brand’s current offerings that have a more modern style. I like Patek Philippe’s style of that era, so I like the ref. 5057G. With the wide hobnail bezel, it’s a bit fancier than it should be, but that’s the appeal. And the bezel is the very feature that gives the watch presence. It catches the light well and is essentially “bling” for an otherwise conservative design. At the same time, the ref. 5057G is more attractive than the original model in rose gold, which lacked contrast due to its white-on-rose gold palette. By today’s standards the original is old fashioned. The ref. 5057R of 1997 that was created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary and also a limited edition of 100 wat...
Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique
Many watch enthusiasts believe that the terms “icon” is overused by watch media. Fair play. But when a collection that has been consistently beloved for decades, celebrates its 90th birthday, I believe this is one of the sure moments where it is safe to label it so. Any watch lover worth their salt has heard … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: The Cartier Tank Cintrée That Never Was
A dream watch that sends me on a brief ride through history.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London
The watch boutique arm of auctioneer Phillips, London-based Perpetual is staging an exhibition of early A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches in its Berkeley Square showroom for a week starting March 9, 2022. Made in Germany, a Tribute to the Early Lange 1 and Datograph comprises 20 examples of Lange’s best-known watches from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, including limited editions that rarely emerge publicly, making it an great opportunity for the brand’s enthusiasts to see special watches and even “grails” in the metal, like the extravagant Lange 1A. Pillars of the brand Arguably the most important Lange models, at least in the brand’s first two decades, are the Lange 1 and Datograph. Both were seminal when they each made their debuts in 1994 and 1999 respectively, helping to put the brand on the map. And because early days of the German watchmaker saw it debut a large number of small-run limited editions, the variety of watches from that period is particularly interesting. Lange 1A The rise in interest that Lange has recently enjoyed means many of the brand’s early or unusual watches are being rediscovered. As a result, the exhibition is perfectly timed. It focuses on the two landmark models, although the line up also includes other intriguing watches like the rare solid-back Saxonia. One of the best examples of the Lange 1 on show is the ref. 101.027X, which has a handsome blue-on-silver palette that served as the inspiration for the Lange 1 25th annivers...
Time+Tide
Jon Bernthal is yet another actor to sport this IWC reference on the red carpet…
Look, I wish dress watches would get more attention today. The marketplace, and our wrists for that matter, are saturated with sports and tool watches. When I try to convince people to look for a classic dress watch to add to their collection, I ask them but what about a watch for when you find yourself … ContinuedThe post Jon Bernthal is yet another actor to sport this IWC reference on the red carpet… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater Ref. IW5242-02. Old but gold.
The year 1995 was as eventful as it gets. It was the year the first Toy Story movie was released, the year Operation Desert Storm officially ended, and it was the last time AFC Ajax won the UEFA Champions League. It also marked the debut of a classic IWC timepiece: the original Portugieser Minute RepeaterRead More
SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”
One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...
Revolution
The Modern Dress Code
The Nomos Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray is a refined dress watch with an extra slim profile thanks to the in-house manufacture caliber DUW 3001 movement.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”
One of Patek Philippe’s longest standing and most important retailers in Asia, Cortina Watch celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2022. In that half century, Cortina has grown from a single store in Singapore to one of the biggest retailers in Southeast Asia with a network of 45 stores and remains controlled by the founding Lim family. As it was with its 25th anniversary in 1997, Cortina is marking the milestone with a limited edition Patek Philippe – the same model in a different guise in fact. The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” preserves the design of the earlier anniversary edition, but dresses it up in a more contemporary grey and silver livery. Importantly, the ref. 5057 was a brand-new reference conceived for Cortina, which means the new edition is only the second time that the reference is seeing light of day. Initial thoughts The ref. 5057G is notable in several ways. For one, it is unusual amongst retailer editions in having complications instead of being a time-and-date Calatrava, no doubt a reflection of the especially strong ties between the Stern and Lim families. Second, the ref. 5057G harks back to the watchmaker’s aesthetic of the 1990s with its dial and hobnail bezel. This sets it apart from Patek Philippe’s recent watches, which mostly have a more contemporary style. And the ref. 5057G is intrinsically attractive. I have yet to see the watch in person, but I’ve examined the preceding ref. 5057R several ...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Cartier Tank That Belonged To Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis
There are Cartier Tanks, and there are Cartier TANKS. This is the latter.
Time+Tide
More compact, thinner and “time only” – the Hublot Big Bang Integral in 40mm
The Hublot Integral, as its name suggests, has been a core representation of the sports-watch brand for quite some time now. It’s seen its fair share of evolutions in regards to case materials and colours, but it has always been found with its high-tech skeletonised dial and UNICO flyback chronograph movement, with the exception of … ContinuedThe post More compact, thinner and “time only” – the Hublot Big Bang Integral in 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Important watches: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Alfons Mucha
We take a close look at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Alfons Mucha - and examine two of the three watches released in 2018 in Rare Watches.
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: Jewelry Designer Maggi Simpkins Finds Power In Her Grandmother's Cartier Tank
The record-setting engagement ring designer believes in the power of objects.
SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Finally Debuts an Interesting Watch
After several years of drift – and a low-priced, Kickstarter-type watch – Baume & Mercier has finally returned with something surprisingly interesting. Based on the brand’s trademark oblong watch, the Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” is based on reproduces a work by the titular French artist on its dial in textured, three-dimensional relief. With the dial pattern apparent only up close and the case entirely in matte black, the aesthetic is strikingly low key. Like Mr Soulages’ best known works, the dial relies on texture, direction, and the absence of colour, although concessions are made for branding and time telling. Initial thoughts Though some of its ladies’ watches do well in certain markets, Baume & Mercier (B&M) has had a difficult recent history. While cycling through several chief executives, the brand also launched a great variety of products over the period, but none of them really caught on. But now it has created something unexpected. The concept is straightforward – a dial that recreates a work of art – but it still manages to be original and unusual. Despite its simplicity, the watch manages to capture the artist’s spirit on a tiny canvas. The monochrome finish and emphasis on texture is exactly what Mr Soulages himself is famous for. The retail price of a bit under US$6,000 is pretty steep for a time-only watch powered by a stock ETA 2892, but several factors count in its favour. One is the intrinsic appeal of the watch, and another...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Leaping Tiger, Hidden Caseback
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Enamel "Tiger."
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures: Stories Of Lost And Found
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures collection consists of three Reverso watches featuring dials with exquisite miniature reproductions of lost paintings by three master painters: Gustave Courbet (1876), Vincent Van Gogh (1888), and Gustav Klimt (1917). Each piece's painting has its own interesting story highlighting why it was considered a “hidden treasure." Joshua Munchow shares those stories with us here.
Deployant
Big Bang Integral Time Only: the newest Hublot from LVMH Watch Week 2022
For LVMH Watch Week 2022, Hublot releases a set of three new time only watches in their Big Bang Integral lineup. 3 novelties, 3 materials, 3 hands.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger”
With 2022 being the Year of the Tiger in the Chinese Zodiac, tiger-themed watches started to proliferate since late last year. One of the most striking tiger-themed watches is also one of the most discreet, revealing its roaring tiger only on the reverse. The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” is a sharp but simple on the front, while its reverse depicts a tiger leaping out of the clouds. Unusually, the decoration combines both enamel and engraving, making it more elaborate than the typical enamelled Reverso. Initial thoughts The quintessential enamelled Reverso is a miniature painting in polychrome enamel – a specialty of Jaeger-LeCoultre since the 1990s. The Reverso “Tiger” in contrast, is a stately black and gold. Even though the “Tiger” dials back on the colours, it is a striking and beautiful watch. The simplicity at a distance gives away to detail when you examine the roaring tiger on the back, which is executed in low relief. It leaps out of a black background that is actually fired enamel. At the same time, this combination of figurative engraving in addition to enamel is a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre, at least in recent years, making the “Tiger” a rather special watch. Naturally the elaborate decoration comes at a price – €90,000 before taxes to be exact. That’s about US$100,000 and about the same as past Reverso models with miniature enamel paintings. Delicate work The engraved tiger takes form after the back has been enamelled. So the process ...
SJX Watches
Raúl Pagès Introduces the Régulateur à détente RP1
Independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès is best known for the Soberly Onyx, which housed a highly-decorated movement that was originally a humble Cyma. His latest creation however, marks a significant step forward – a movement he developed and largely manufactures himself. A time-only watch with some fascinating details, the Régulateur à détente RP1 serves as a strong testament to Mr Pagès’ capabilities: it has a regulator display while the movement has a detent escapement of his own design. And of course, it is finished to the same high standard as his earlier work – or perhaps even better. Initial thoughts The RP1 is intriguing in many ways. It is well-executed both in terms of technical features and finish. The most obvious element that sets it apart is the detent escapement. Due to the technical quirks in implementation, the detent escapement is an uncommon regulation mechanism that contrasts with the Swiss lever escapement that is ubiquitous even at the highest end of watchmaking. It is clear that Mr Pagès designed the movement around the escapement, as the movement bridges expose enough to proudly showcase the mechanism. But the RP1 isn’t only about the movement, as its qualities appear all-encompassing, as demonstrated by the equally well-finished dial. Despite the simple appearance at a glance, the regulator dial is replete with fine finishing details. While the colour scheme may be too quirky for some, I wouldn’t be surprised if Mr Pages accedes to re...
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