Dress Watches · Page 83

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234A in Steel (With Price)

Announced just yesterday, the Patek Philippe  Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Singapore 2019 ref. 7234A-001 created especially for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition is the first variation of the watch in stainless steel. It is limited to 400 pieces and will only be available in Southeast Asia. The Pilot Calatrava Travel Time was first introduced in 2014 as the ref. 5524G in a 42mm white-gold case. Later in 2018, the brand unveiled a 37.5mm version, the ref. 7234R in rose gold. While the case material is the main point of difference in the Singapore edition, its bluish grey dial is distinctive and unusual, and more so in the context of such vintage aviator-inspired dials which are typically in a darker colour for greater legibility. The dial colour is meant to evoke the seascapes of Southeast Asian nations, including the port city of Singapore. Its embossed blue calfskin strap, a first for Patek Philippe, is also unique to the watch. It is otherwise mechanically identical to the standard model. Powering it is the 294-part self-winding 324 S C FUS which features a dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time as well as a day and night indicator for both local and home time, displayed in apertures on the dial. Visible through the sapphire case back, the movement offers a 45-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 4Hz. As are all of Patek Philippe’s current movements, it is equipped with both a proprietary Gyromax balance and a silicon Spiromax hairsprin...

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Ladies’ Pilot Calatrava Travel Time Ref. 7234A

The first-ever steel Calatrava Pilot’s Watch from Patek Philippe makes its debut.

First Look: Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 Limited Editions (With Prices)

The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 opened today for a sneak preview of the monumental showcase of watchmaking and horology. It includes everything from watchmaker demonstrations to a look into the art of enamelling, explained by no other than master artisan Anita Porchet herself; more on those in upcoming stories (or you can also buy the hardbound catalogue with proceeds going to charity). For now, here’s a peek at the highly anticipated limited edition watches produced for the event. The outline of the Singapore 2019 collection is simple: four relatively accessible watches, two grand complications, and a variety of unique Rare Handcrafts clocks, pocket- and wristwatches. All of the limited edition watches bear “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019” on the case back, printed if the back is sapphire, and engraved if the back is solid. The first is the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 ref. 5167A-012 in steel, a variation of the standard model. It has a dial with the minute track and seconds hand in red, matched with a red strap. This is limited to 500 pieces, and priced at 22,400 Swiss francs, or 33,500 Singapore dollars. (Full details on the Aquanaut here.) It’s accompanied by the Aquanaut Luce Singapore 2019 ref. 5067A-027 in steel for ladies that has a red dial and strap, also a variation of the standard model. Only 300 will be made, with a retail of 19,900 Swiss francs, or 29,800 Singapore dollars. Also for ladies is the Calatrava Pilot Travel Ti...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”

The road was long, but we have arrived: at the start of the year, A. Lange & Söhne kicked off the gradual launch of the 25th anniversary editions of the Lange 1. Made up of 10 different models, unveiled one a month, the series has now come to a conclusion with the final model – the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”. While all other watches in the Lange 1 family have remained in the catalogue since their debut, the Lange 1 Tourbillon was always a limited edition, making the last instalment of the anniversary series the rarest. The model was first unveiled in 2000 in pink gold (250 pieces) and platinum (150 pieces), followed by a honey-gold version (150 pieces) a decade later to mark the 165th anniversary of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s birth. Then the watch received the “Handwerkskunst” treatment in 2014 (20 pieces), giving it a platinum case and glossy, black enamel dial, resulting in a very desirable watch. And Lange also quietly produced a handful of one-off examples over the years, including a recent one for retailer The Hour Glass in Tokyo. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst The specially decorated movement of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Interestingly, Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary” marks the first time that the watch is produced in white gold. The case remains the standard size, 38.5mm wide and 9.8mm in height, also the same dimensions as the standard Lange 1. And like all prior 25th anniversary editions, it features a solid...

New with live pics: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon 25th Anniversary

The final piece of the Lange 1 25th Anniversary collection is crowned by the Lange 1 Tourbillon. Limited Edition 25 pieces in Anniverary colours. Live pics.

Introducing the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”

In-Depth: Why Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker Selfie is a Dead-Serious Watch

Self-taught Russian clock- and watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin, who has built notably complex timepieces, is ironically best known for the Joker, a relatively simple watch. The Joker is powered by an ETA 2814 base movement with an in-house module of just 61 parts that drives the novel time display: two sub-dials, positioned like eyes in a face, for hours respectively minutes, and a moon phase at six o’clock resembling a smiling mouth – the funny face of time. When first unveiled the inaugural Joker in steel at Baselworld 2017, the 99-piece limited edition sold out quickly. The watch also enjoyed critical acclaim; the subsequent Joker Clown won the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve 2018. Konstantin notes he was particularly surprised how eagerly the love-or-hate design was embraced by collectors of high-end watches. So his extended the Joker concept to the top-end of the price spectrum, with the limited edition Joker automaton developed with fellow independent watchmaker Svend Andersen. And then Konstantin recently revealed he was participating in charity auction Only Watch 2019 – alongside peers like Akrivia, F.P. Journe, Urwerk and De Bethune – which piqued my interest, so I reached out to Konstantin to find out more. The Joker automaton by Andersen and Chaykin Inspiration strikes As Luc Pettavino, the founder of Only Watch, was planning the 2019 event, he approached Konstantin to suggest a straightforward variant of the origin...

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”

A. Lange & Söhne is marking the 25th year since it first unveiled its modern line-up of wristwatches – led by the iconic Lange 1 – in 1994 with a 10-piece set of special Lange 1 models. The Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” is the third watch of the set, which has been progressively unveiled each month, with the last (presumably a Lange 1 Tourbillon) slated to be announced in October. The Little Lange 1 was first conceived in 1998 as a scaled down version of the Lange 1, with the case shrunk to 36mm. But it was originally a men’s watch, catered to markers like Japan and Singapore that wanted a smaller size. So the earlier versions had plain dials, essentially the same dials as found on the full-size Lange 1, but the Little Lange 1 has since evolved into a watch for ladies, so the current versions are only offered with ornate guilloche dials in purple or brown, with the option of a diamond-set bezel. But the Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” returns to the original concept of the model, with all frills removed and once again suitable for men. The standard Little Lange 1 with a brown guilloche dial Modern blue The “25th Anniversary” model of the Little Lange 1 pays tribute to the original design with a standard silver dial. In fact, the dial is identical to first generation Little Lange 1 dials, with the exception of the colours and printed indices; the originals had applied markers. As a recurring theme found in the other commemorative pi...

You Are There: A. Lange & Söhne At Hampton Court Classic Car Event, Debuts Little Lange 1 Moon Phase 25th Anniversary

An anniversary version of the A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase arrived at the 2019 Hampton Court classic car event in London and Elizabeth Doerr was there. Here she shares the new watch with us as well as some impressions from the event.

Habring² Introduces the Salmon Collection

Austrian watchmaker Habring2, highly regarded for its smart, affordable watches, has just revealed the Salmon collection. The new line-up is made up of all of the brand’s key models, but with each watch now offered with a salmon dial. Once found occasionally on vintage watches and now a popular shade for that reason, salmon dials are a novelty for Habring2,  led by husband and wife team Richard and Maria Habring. The brand typically offers its watches in more straightforward shades of silver, blue, black or grey. The salmon colour Habring2 opted for is a strong pink, closer to salmon than copper or pink gold. Here are a few photos of the watches “in the metal” supplied by the Habrings to show how the salmon dials vary in tone depending on the light. The top of the line model is the Perpetual Doppel, recently launched to mark the brand’s 15thanniversary. Its salmon dial is combined with silvered numerals and blued steel hands, the only model in the Salmon collection with heat-blued hands. The range also includes the entry-level, time-only Felix as well as the single-button Chrono-Felix. Both measure only 38.5mm in diameter, and are also the amongst the thinnest watches made by Habring2. And the more complicated models are the Doppel Felix split-seconds chronograph with its “bullhead” pusher layout, and the inventive COS Felix. Short for “crown operated system”, the COS chronograph is activated entirely via the crown, which is turned either forwards o...

Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser

Editor’s note: While the Pilot might be IWC’s hero of the hour, the equally large but more classically inspired Portugieser is an equally important line. Felix finds out why …  There’s a good reason the Portugieser collection is one of IWC’s most popular (in Australia at least). It’s a big, commanding watch that nevertheless possesses … ContinuedThe post Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: A. Lange & Söhne The LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE “25th Anniversary”

The ninth of ten new Lange 1 for this year celebrating the 25th Anniversary is the LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE “25th Anniversary”. Details here.

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase '25th Anniversary'

It maybe small, but boy does it pack a punch.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”

With one watch unveiled each month since the start of the year, the A. Lange & Söhne “25th Anniversary” series is coming to a completion. The ninth watch has just been announced – the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase. Of the 10 piece anniversary set, this is arguably the most esoteric and least known Lange 1, being an elegantly conceived complication inside a case that was originally devised as a smaller men’s watch, but is now a ladies’ watch. Measuring a compact 36.8mm in width, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was first unveiled in 2009 – seven years after the launch of the full-size, 38.5mm Lange 1 Moon Phase. Subsequently in 2017, it evolved to incorporate a new caliber based on the second-generation Lange 1 movement. Though the original Little Lange 1 was introduced as a watch for men in the late 1990s, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was a ladies’ watch from the get-go and decorated as such, with mother-of-pearl dials, diamond bezels and most recently a guilloche dial. But with the subdued anniversary colours of blue and silver, the latest Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the first instance where it could be for men wanting a smaller watch. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and printed blue markings. As with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “25thAnniversary” unveiled earlier in the year, the white-gold lunar disc in the seconds sub-dial is hand-engraved with stars that vary in size and shape, creating a detailed depiction of the ni...

Introducing the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”

The Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the ninth watch to join A. Lange & Söhne’s 25th anniversary editions for the Lange 1.

This is what $2,000,000 of diamond watch looks like – meet the Franck Muller Invisible Setting with rubies

This is not an under-the-radar watch. So if you’re looking for an unassuming dress watch, scroll on. But if you like your timekeeping served with a bit (OK, a lot) of bling, this might be up your alley. But be warned: the price - much like the weight in stones - is hefty. Want to see … ContinuedThe post This is what $2,000,000 of diamond watch looks like – meet the Franck Muller Invisible Setting with rubies appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lange 1’s Big Date

The grande date display that set a new standard for wristwatch practicality is an innovation first seen on none other than the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Due Trio in Titanium

A downsized, slimmer sports watch that’s the most civilian of Panerai’s military-inspired watches, the Luminor Due is now available in three sizes with a brushed titanium case (the PAM 926, PAM 927, and PAM 964). All have a date function, and the largest 45mm model has a second time zone and power reserve. Prior to this launch, the Luminor Due was only available as a time-only in two case sizes (42mm and 45mm), so the newly launched trio substantially increases the offerings in the lightweight metal. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM 927 in titanium But perhaps more significant is the newly developed calibre inside the new models. The P.900 is a large movement at 12 1/2 lignes, or about 28mm, in diameter, but slim. In fact, it’s the thinnest movement produced by Panerai, measuring just 4.2mm high. It’s automatic and has a three-day power reserve. Not much else has been revealed about the movement yet, but it is likely to be the brand’s new entry-level calibre. The smallest of the trio is the Luminor Due 38mm PAM00926 that’s powered by the automatic P.900 movement. It’s the first time the smallest Luminor Due case is being offered in titanium. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM00927 is one step upwards in size, but otherwise identical, with the same movement and specs. And the top of the line watch is the Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM000964. This is equipped with the P.4002 automatic movement that has a second time zone, power reserve and zero-reset hack seconds....

Editors' Picks: Stand-Out Affordable Dress Watches

For under $10,000 you can look like a million bucks.

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI – “Titanium Inverse”

Voutilainen’s signature watch is the Vingt-8, powered by the cal. 28, which is time-only but impressively constructed and beautifully finished. So earlier this year Voutilainen flipped the movement, inverting the calibre to have the interesting bits on the front, and relegating the base plate to the back. The result is the 28TI – short for “titanium inverse” – a watch that has all the trademark elements of a Voutilainen, gorgeous detailing and refined decoration, but is as over the top as a classical watch can be. Inverted movements are not new, they can occasionally be found in antique pocket watches, and over the last two decades they have gradually become fashionable in modern watchmaking. The pioneer in the current era is the Breguet La Tradition, though strictly speaking it is not an inverted movement since it was constructed from the ground up to look like a 19th century souscription pocket watch. Actually inverted is the Glashütte Original PanoInverse, and more recently, the Moritz Grossmann Backpage. But none of the other brands making such movements do so to the same quality as Voutilainen, making the 28TI unique in its class. The 28TI Telling time indirectly Mechanically the 28TI is largely similar to the standard cal. 28, with some changes in the construction for the flipped display. Additional gearing is required to drive the hands in the opposite direction, while also allowing for hand-setting via the crown. The changes start with a series o...

The Observatory Chronometers that Timed the Tour de France

Watches once owned by prominent personalities are captivating. Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona, the Rolex “Bao Dai”, Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster Moonwatch, the Henry Graves Supercomplication, and even J. Pierpont Morgan’s lost pocket watch, are amongst most sought after timepieces in the world. In fact, a good number of the most expensive watches ever sold at auction have notable provenance, which turns a mere watch into a historical artefact. Probably the most important timekeepers in cycling, these are a pair of Longines split-seconds stop watches – refs. 7411 and 8350 respectively – that were used by Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation, to time the Tour de France in the fading glory days of mechanical sports timing, just before quartz stopwatches took over. In fact, the pair of stopwatches are not merely chronographs, but also observatory certified chronometers. Watchmaking once represented the cutting edge research of mechanical engineering. Observatory time trials at Neuchatel, Geneva or Kew were rigorous scientific affairs, with movements Peseux 260 and Zenith 135 competing to be the most accurate movement in the world. But such movements were three-hand, time-only. Aside from tourbillon movements, very few complicated calibres were submitted to timing contests. Mr Pitallier’s pair of Longines were both certified by the Neuchatel observatory. The swan song of competitive timekeeping In modern day watch collectin...

RECOMMENDED READING: Everything you didn’t know about the Patek Philippe Calatrava

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is probably the most recognisable time-only collection of watches in Swiss watchmaking. Simple, three-handed watches made in precious metal that represent what Patek Philippe is about in its most distilled form – restrained classicism made to exacting standards. In this article by The Hour Glass, the history of the Calatrava is … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Everything you didn’t know about the Patek Philippe Calatrava appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Slim kings – the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date and the Altiplano Chronograph

A few weeks ago we were treated to an evening with Piaget, and their thintastic Altiplano collection. And while we had a bunch of watches in our office, and our excellent photographer Jason Reekie on hand, it would have been a shame not to make the most of it. We’ve already seen what the mighty … ContinuedThe post Slim kings – the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date and the Altiplano Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic '25th Anniversary'

The latest commemorative drop is all about info and convenience.