Monochrome
Serica began its journey with a classic field watch, and since its launch in 2019, the young brand has quickly carved out a strong identity with a lineup of retro-inspired, adventure-ready timepieces, spanning field, dive, and GMT models, and something else a bit dressier. Designed with durability, precision, and style in mind, every Serica watch […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Railmaster can best be put into historical context as of one of the most recognizable names in its category that arguably gets the least amount of attention. It hasn’t been a mainstay for the brand, and currently sits in purgatory, with no modern Railmaster existing in the contemporary Omega collection. It’s a black sheep with serious historical credentials that should have been a perennial adversary to the Rolex Explorer, and yet it became instead something of an enthusiast darling, a relic of esoterica. I would argue that it just missed its initial window to hit immortality, courtesy of little more than bad timing. It was, and remains, one of the coolest designs from a brand that really could rest on its laurels behind the Speedmaster and Seamaster. And with those two models mentioned, let’s properly understand the what, where, how, and why of the Omega Railmaster. Okay, and also the when. In 1957, Omega basically released the only three watches any brand would ever have to release to prove everlasting viability. Well, in theory, two of those brands seem to have done the trick – the Railmaster was just icing on the cake. Think of it like when Rolex unveiled the Submariner and the Explorer in the very same year, followed closely by the GMT-Master. Those three watches have experienced continuous production since that time and represent the core ethos of Rolex today. Similarly, in ‘57, we saw Omega unveil a trilogy of watches: The Seamaster, the Speedmas...
Worn & Wound
Ming has announced their latest release, a follow up to the 29.01 Worldtimer which launched in 2023. The new 29.01 Midnight is conceived as the flipside to the original, which was presented in titanium with a blue/black gradient dial. The new watch is a blacked out version, with a DLC coating on the titanium case, and a black dial with layers of sapphire and, as we often see with Ming, loaded with lume. The release follows a bit of a pattern we saw with the 37.09, which debuted with the bright and colorful Bluefin about one year ago, and saw a darker sibling emerge several months later with the Uni. The colorway of the 29.01 Midnight is, in fact, directly lifted from the Uni, providing yet another connection between Ming watch families. The 29.01 is one of my personal favorite examples of Ming’s higher end, haute horlogery offerings, as the worldtimer format really allows the brand to flex a bit. While I think many probably associate Ming with a certain strain of minimalism, the 29.01, by necessity, is throwing a lot at you, and it’s a great accomplishment on Ming’s part that the watch is able to communicate so much so clearly. Here’s how it works. The cities representing the world’s time zones are printed on a sapphire upper dial. Below that, a metal base dial with a very subtle grained finish has the 24 hour scale printed on it. Throughout the day, the base dial rotates so that the 24 hour scale lines up with the correct time in each world city, hour by hou...
Teddy Baldassarre
My first Rolex was an Explorer II 216570 with black dial and I absolutely loved that watch. It was rarer than the GMT-Master II or Submariner, and didn’t have the ceramic bezel, which I found to be a little too glossy and “luxe” for what I was looking for in a watch at the time. I kept and wore the heck out of that watch for almost six years until I just felt like it didn’t speak to me anymore. The 42mm wide “Maxi” case seemed too big and the big, thick hour and minutes hands just began to bug me. I can’t explain why I was so dead set on the 216570 rather than the older 16570 at the time but I can certainly say that now, in 2025, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 is not just my preferred iteration of the modern spelunking watch, but an all-timer from Rolex. I’ve started to refer to the 16570 as a “Forever Rolex” because it ticks all the boxes - size, reliability, dual-time functionality, and discrete aesthetics - all while remaining one of the few Rolexes that isn’t immediately recognizable to every casual observer. Let’s take a look at why I’m such a big fan of this old-school Rolex. Case and Specs: The Other Rolex GMT Measuring 40mm wide and 12.2mm thick with a 47mm lug-to-lug height, the 16570 is an eminently wearable Rolex. And while this is very obviously a sport/tool watch, these proportions make for a very versatile and subdued piece. No, there isn’t a rotating bezel with a nickname-ready color combo here. Rather, there is a demure, fixed ...
Hodinkee
The dark side of the Ming, if you will.
Monochrome
Though still under a decade old, independent watchmaker Ming has already established a solid reputation in the horological world, so much so that it hardly needs an introduction. With its instantly recognisable aesthetic, the brand has released several standout models over the years, including the 19.02 Worldtimer. First introduced in 2023, the 29.01 Worldtimer showcased […]
Revolution
Deployant
A new GMT two timezone watch is released for SEVENFRIDAY, and we met up with Daniel Niederer, Co-Founder and CEO to get a hands on with this novelty.
Worn & Wound
Sometimes, no matter how many hours we spend scrolling on Instagram and monitoring various watch-focused group chats, things slip through the cracks. Watches that check all the right boxes to rise above the noise of a crowded market go unnoticed and become sleeper hits instead of hits, and creativity that deserves widespread celebration instead receives a splattering of quiet applause. For collectors that enjoy witnessing brands evolve and develop distinct design DNA in real time, it can be a bummer to discover your radar missed something great. But on the bright side, this scenario allows for instant gratification and the opportunity to speed run a brand’s evolution to the present day. This was my experience when Italian microbrand echo/neutra released the Rivanera at the end of last year. Like many of you, I was pleasantly caught off guard by the rugged take on the classic rectangular dress watch, but didn’t recognize the name divided by a distinct slash on the dial. This sent me digging through surprisingly sparse reviews and forum threads where I discovered that the Rivanera was far from beginner’s luck, and was actually the result of a year’s long evolution that began in the way many do, with a safe and somewhat generic field watch on Kickstarter. Watching aging YouTube videos, this actual first release called the Averau (which later included a very cool moon phase) looks like exactly the type of watch I would’ve chased in 2019 when specs and MSRP were my pr...
Fratello
It was the Land-Dweller that stole the limelight, and understandably so. After all, it’s not often that The Crown presents an entirely new collection with a groundbreaking movement innovation to boot. I did feel sorry for the other novelties, though. The pastel-tinted Oyster Perpetual watches were quite lovely, for instance, but they got trampled on […] Visit Debuted But Not Debated: The Green Cerachrom Dial In The Left-Handed White Gold Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Diving into the new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech and crazy Jupiterium clock.The post We take a look at Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2025 high watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
To function properly, a watch first and foremost needs to tell time. On top of that, there’s a world of complexity and practicality to be discovered. One such complication is the GMT function, preferably of the Flyer kind. But what if you want something more than that? What if you want, let’s say, an alarm […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Before getting into the Tudor GMT guide, let's put the brand in context as it has experienced a modern renaissance since returning to the U.S. market with the Black Bay collection in 2012. No longer content as a mere sub-brand of big brother Rolex, Tudor has established itself as the de facto tool-watch manufacture in the $3,000 - $6,000 range, and the brand has done it through methodical progress within the Black Bay, Ranger, and Pelagos families. In 2016, Tudor introduced its first in-house caliber in the North Flag, and has since established its own movements throughout the portfolio, allowing Tudor to approach complications in its own way. Arguably, the most important of these complications is the GMT, which made its modern debut with the Black Bay GMT in 2018. But that’s not the first GMT from the brand. In this guide, we’ll take a look back at what may be some forgotten GMT references from Tudor, and make our way through the now expansive modern stable of watches boasting the reference today. A GMT is likely the most most requested feature when it comes to new Tudor watches, and lately, the brand has been particularly in tune with those demands - to the point where it’s safe to say that we’re spoiled for choice these days. That’s not to say that there aren’t a few expressions of this complication that we’d still like to see, and I’ll outline some of those in closing. The GMT complication is a foundational part of the Rolex identity, with Tudor'...
Hodinkee
A bright white Seiko diver GMT, just in time for summer.
Fratello
Fans of dive watches were already spoiled for choice with Hamilton. The brand’s Khaki Navy collection features almost any style, from daily divers to hardcore, oversized submersible watches. From today onward, you will have even more to choose from. Hamilton introduces the 43mm Khaki Navy Scuba Auto GMT in two versions (steel and bronze) and […] Visit New Additions To The Hamilton Diving Collection: Khaki Navy Frogman Auto And Khaki Navy Scuba Auto GMT Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Khaki Navy Scuba collection has long served as Hamilton‘s entry-level offering for dive-inspired timepieces, alongside the more rugged Frogman and BeLOWZERO models. Available in both quartz and automatic versions, the Scuba range has evolved over the years with a wide variety of styles, making it a versatile companion for aquatic and beachside adventures. In […]
Worn & Wound
A new diver release from Seiko isn’t exactly going to set the world on fire, but it will surely please the legions of fans of the brand and its Prospex line. With a crisp white and blue colorway and nifty bracelet that can be microadjusted as wrist size changes throughout the day, the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT looks to be a worthy-if subdued-addition to the ever-growing catalog of Seiko dive watches. Pulling from a long tradition of purpose-built Seiko dive watches, the new SPB519 reference features a stainless steel case measuring in at 42mm in diameter, 48.6mm lug-to-lug, and 13.3mm thick, giving it a heftier frame than 2023’s closely-related Heritage Diver’s GMT (SPB381). A unidirectional bezel, and screw-down caseback and crown at 4 o’clock further push the watch into “serious” diver waters, supported by the 300-meter water resistance rating. Stylistically, the SPB519 takes on a sort of jaunty sailor persona, with a navy blue ceramic bezel and a silvery white dial. The applied indexes and hands are coated in LumiBrite, as are numerals on the bezel, and an anti-reflective coating protects the inner surface of the sapphire crystal. Inside, the Caliber 6R54 automatic hand-winding GMT movement adds some spice to the otherwise by-the-numbers functionality of the watch, and boasts a 72-hour power reserve and “caller-style” independent 24-hour hand. The most interesting feature of the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, however, lies with the bracelet, which ...
Monochrome
Last month, the Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 fair was the occasion for us, and all watch enthusiasts, to discover the new collections of approximately 60 brands. As the successor to the SIHH, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, most exhibiting brands are top-tier segment players. As fascinating as it is, there was not […]
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning again, so it’s time for another installment of our famous Showdown. Last week, we featured two rather expensive and hard-to-get watches - the new Rolex Land-Dweller and the new 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus. That’s why we’re going for something a little more affordable and readily available this week. Both Nomos and Frederique […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Rolex Submariner or GMT Master II? This is not an easy question and veryone will have their own opinion on which of these two iconic watches is their favorite. Many considering owning a Rolex will start with these two models. Raman Kalra tries to pick his favorite.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we compiled a list of our favorite vintage Rolex Submariner models. While classic Rolexes are always a topic of discussion, recently Submariners and GMT-Masters have been discussed quite a bit in the Fratello offices. It is no coincidence because Robert-Jan recently added a vintage GMT-Master to his collection, and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage And Neo Vintage Rolex Submariner Models to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A look at the attractive new Seiko Prospex SPB519J1 GMT that serves as a new non-limited edition within the Prospex lineup.
Deployant
Seiko releases a new 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT watch to the Prospex permanent collection. adding to Heritage Diver's GMT 60th anniversary limited editions.
Fratello
Manufacturers of ebauche watch movements have a major impact on the watch industry. They might not be the sexiest of companies, but their decisions directly determine what new watches we can expect to see from brands. When Miyota recently announced a flyer GMT caliber (Caliber 9075), we soon saw a flurry of new affordable flyer […] Visit Caliber Cravings: New Ebauche Watch Movements We Would Like To See to read the full article.
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