Multi-time-zone watches for the long-haul era. From the 1955 Pan Am commission that produced the Rolex GMT-Master to modern world-time complications with all 24 reference cities on the dial.
Photo: Two Broke Watch Snobs · May 27, 2026
A GMT watch shows two time zones simultaneously: home time on the standard 12-hour dial, plus a second 24-hour hand reading off a 24-hour graduated bezel. The genre opens with the Rolex GMT-Master (1955, ref. 6542), commissioned by Pan American Airways for trans-oceanic pilots. The world-time complication, distinct from GMT, shows all 24 zones at once via a rotating 24-hour disc with reference cities; it was patented by Louis Cottier in 1937 and licensed to Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.
The GMT-Master is one of the few sports-watch icons commissioned by an airline rather than a government. Pan American Airways approached Rolex in 1953 for a watch that could display Greenwich Mean Time alongside local time, supporting the new trans-Atlantic Boeing 707 routes. The 1955 ref. 6542 launch carried the now-canonical red-and-blue "Pepsi" bezel; the 1959 ref. 1675 became the volume reference and remained in production with cosmetic updates until 1980.
The modern GMT category divides into caller GMTs (the 24-hour hand jumps in 1-hour increments via the crown, leaving local time alone) and traveler GMTs (the local hour hand jumps independently of the 24-hour reference, the format Rolex uses on modern Cal. 3285 references). The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT, Tudor Black Bay GMT, and Omega Aqua Terra GMT are the volume modern alternatives.
Louis Cottier's 1937 world-time patent uses a fixed 12-hour dial, an inner 24-hour ring, and a city ring graduated for all 24 reference time zones. The mechanism is more elegant than GMT but has half the readability. Patek Philippe ref. 1415 (1939) and Vacheron Constantin Cottier-licensed pieces are the canonical heritage references; modern Patek 5230 and the Vacheron Overseas World Time are the volume modern equivalents.
Monochrome
Towering above conventional watchmakers with its complex in-house movements, dramatically staged complications, and lavish artistic flourishes, Bovet’s watches are as unique as they are expressive. Described as the brand’s “first true GMT,” the new Récital 32 features a novel, user-friendly pusher to set the second time zone. However, in true Bovet style, this GMT does not […]
Fratello
Maen has been gracing us with a string of interesting new releases over the past few months. First, the Swedish brand with Dutch roots released the updated Hudson 38 MK5. After that, Maen continued its partnership with Nico Leonard with the Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin. And last month, I reviewed the refreshed Hudson GMT MKII. Today, […] Visit Maen Kick-Starts Its Boutique Exclusive Series With A New Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin to read the full article.
Fratello
Traska is known for incrementally updating its existing collection. This has been a key factor in the young Floridian brand’s success. But on top of that, we have seen the new Traska Chronograph take a surprising design direction. Additionally, founder Jon Mack unveiled plans to release a new Jump Hour watch. So what happens when […] Visit The Updated Traska Venturer GMT Doesn’t Wander Far — Just Far Enough to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, GlashĂĽtte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS GlashĂĽtte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Fratello
When I think of Farer, I don’t necessarily associate the brand with pilot’s watches. Moreover, I don’t link it to any particular watch category at all, even though I’ve previously reviewed a couple of iterations of the Farer World Timer. Instead, the brand is best recognized for its compelling use of color. That said, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Farer Pilot Series II Curtis — A Fresh Take On The Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Compare Citizen Nighthawk vs Seiko 5 GMT for real travel use with tested insights. See which affordable GMT wins on design, comfort, value, and daily wear.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We reviewed the best microbrand GMT watches and independent travel-watch alternatives, from affordable quartz picks to flyer GMTs and premium GMT divers.
Monochrome
Not too long ago, last February in fact, I had the opportunity to get my hands on a series of Miyota automatic movements, of which I disassembled the ubiquitous Calibre 9015. My prime goal was to learn more about its construction and simply find out how it looks when you take it apart. And as […]
Monochrome
At this point, perhaps it is very safe to say that Seiko doesn’t like holding back when it comes to giving the 5 Sports collection new directions. What started as a home for SKX-inspired sports watches has gradually turned into one of the brand’s most varied collections. Along the way, we have seen GMT models, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The latest take on the Farer Lander IV delivers a Swiss-made movement, bold color palette, and versatile 39.5mm sizing for under the $1,600 mark.
Hodinkee
Following a whirlwind year of releases for Breguet's 250th anniversary in 2025, this year's recent updates to the collection play it a little safer, with some enamel-focused changes to the brand's iconic Tradition series of watches. The fan favorites, I'm sure, are the 38mm Tradition Seconde Rétrograde models. But when I had a chance to check out some of the novelties a few weeks ago, it was actually the larger, 40mm Tradition GMT that caught my eye. Priced at $82,900, the Tradition GMT is very much a seriously priced contender in the haute horlogerie arena. But one look at the watch shows off so much of what makes it special, and most importantly, it's unabashedly Breguet. Add in the visual update of this current generation, and I think it's the best version I've seen yet. Much of what makes this version stand out is the main subdial at 12 o'clock. It's not every day that Breguet opts for a shade of green in the series—in fact, it's the first time in the Tradition line, as blues, blacks, golds, and greys seem to define much of the older collection. The execution of the gradient green-to-black grand feu enamel dial in this model is absolutely sublime. Enameling is one of the strengths I associate with Breguet's in-house capabilities, and here it's done very well, with a pleasant shade of forest green shifting to the dark black perimeter, all executed and fired by hand. While the Breguet logo and other dial markings are printed in a metallic silver finish for legibility,...
Time+Tide
Manime's new La MĂ©ridienne is an affordable integrated bracelet GMT watch with 70s-style details and a captivating choice of dials
Time+Tide
Farer refreshes its GMT Bezel collection with two new colours, featuring sharp, striking guilloché dials and sapphire bezel inserts
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Hodinkee
Last week, we brought back the second edition of what will start to become a regular fixture on the calendar—Hodinkee Happy Hour. Watches of Switzerland SoHo was once again the venue, and Editor-in-Chief James Stacey hosted a very fun evening. Great conversations, great company, and no shortage of great watches to look at—a few of which you'll see below. If you made it out, thank you for coming. If not, we'll be doing it again at the end of June. Follow us on Instagram to be the first to know when RSVPs open. Patek Philippe 5940J. Zenith Sporto. Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang with his Rolex Land-Dweller 36. Casio G-Shock x Hender Scheme DW-5900UD-1. Patek Philippe Complications ref. 5180/1R-001 18K Skeleton. C by Romain Gauthier and a A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in White Gold. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Rolex Land-Dweller 36 A nice variety of local beverages were on offer from Grotta. Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A. Tudor Black Bay 58 and a Rolex-GMT Master II "Batman". Timex Ironman, Tudor Pelagos, Breitling Aerospace. Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar ref. 5726A. Dennison Dual Time. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface, Univeral Genève FS, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. Sinn T50. Hodinkee's Editor-in-Chief James Stacey serving pizza and talking watches. Rolex Oyster Perpetual. Vacheron Constantin Overseas ref. 4500V. Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570. Hodinkee's TanTan Wang and Pedro Vidal. Thanks to Upside Pizza for the pizza. Rolex Submariner, Jaeger-L...
Fratello
The fun thing about my hands-on experience with the new Arken Alterum Sage Grey is that I went into it rather blindly. While that is nothing special in and of itself, when two Fratello team members actually own an Arken Alterum, it is slightly more remarkable. Obviously, I knew about the brand and the watch […] Visit Going Hands-On With The New Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT to read the full article.
Hodinkee
There are few things better in the realm of watch ownership than using your watch for its stated purpose – diving with a diver, flying with a pilot watch, traveling with a Worldtimer. Even better still, getting to do so while taking your watch back to the place where it was created, experiencing the country and culture that brought it to life. This past spring, in the height of that most cherished of seasons when the cherry blossoms in Japan bloom, I had the opportunity to do just that with the Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine. Attesa is, in many ways, a distillation of everything that makes Citizen special. It is the collection that showcases the most advanced technologies and techniques. They are modern, even futuristic-looking watches, designed with a forward-looking perspective on who Citizen is, and where it is going. Radio or satellite-controlled Eco-Drive movements, unique and complex dial materials, various cutting-edge methods for utilizing some of the best titanium alloys in watchmaking – these are all hallmarks of the Attesa collection. Like all of Citizen's watches, regardless of collection or price, Attesa is assembled by hand with the utmost capability and care. An evolution of the radio antennas used in Eco-Drive watches throughout the years. First released in 2025, when the Attesa collection was re-established in the U.S. as part of Citizen's new Premier category, the watch is available in several variations. Each one has a different reference number, an...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. expands its selection of chronographs with the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, adding convenient complications to the impressive chronograph calibre found in the Streamliner collection. Despite the presence of a chronograph and a second time zone display, the Endeavour Flyback could easily pass for a time-only watch at a glance thanks to its central minutes counter and discreet dual-time disc. Initial thoughts The central-minutes chronograph is an inherently appealing format. Not only does it reduce dial clutter by eliminating a sub-dial, but it improves legibility by allowing the elapsed minutes to be read on the same 60-minute scale the eye is accustomed to from reading the time. I’m also a fan of the AgenGraphe platform that underpins the HMC 730 movement. The movement architecture — which has now been around for almost a decade — reveals fresh thinking about how a horizontal clutch can work, and the visual layout is appropriately dynamic for a high-end watch with plenty of visible springs and levers, many of which are pleasingly thin in form. All that is to say the Endeavour Flyback has a lot going for it even before considering Moser’s minimalist aesthetic choices. As we’ve come to expect from the brand, the dial is sterile — lacking a brand logo or wordmark — and there’s a gradient fumé finish on the central disc that indicates the second time zone. These details are enough to mark the watch as a Moser product, which sp...
Deployant
Released in Watches & Wonders 2026, here is our hands-on review of the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points .
Worn & Wound
Moser’s new Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date occupies a strange niche which the brand has now explored twice in the span of just a few months: a watch with a movement that has been converted from an automatic version to manually wound for additional functionality and convenience. I’d be surprised if this was an operating principle for Moser for either this release or the Streamliner Pump which debuted at Watches & Wonders, and runs on the HMC 103, which is a manually wound version of their workhorse HMC 500. But it does speak to the brand’s ingenuity when it comes to movement making, and is a reminder that while Moser’s aesthetics and distinct design language often get the most ink, there’s real watchmaking happening as well. Moser’s Endeavour platform gets the debut of an entirely new movement from Moser, the HMC 730. Based on the architecture of the HMC 902, their automatic chronograph movement made with AGENHOR, the new caliber dispenses with an automatic winding system in favor of dual time and date complications. It does all of this without traditional subdials, a real benefit of the proprietary AGENHOR architecture, which promises a more intuitive readout of elapsed time on a chronograph. On this watch, a red central hand tracks chronograph seconds, a rhodium plated hand tracks elapsed minutes, and the second time zone is found within an interior gray fume dial. The movement has a number of function first technical advances. The date, for ...
Hodinkee
Congrats on conquering another week, even if this one felt particularly expensive with the loss of Sonny Rollins. I know jazz is probably supremely uncool, but man oh man, if you've not had any experience listening to old Sonny stuff, pull up his classic The Bridge and dive on in (and, yes, his time out, alone, practicing sax on the Williamsburg Bridge, lent the album its title). But you're not here for that sort of cultural enrichment. Let's get to the real stuff. Scorekeeping earlier picks, the Hamilton RAF from two weeks back sold for €1,600, which is a cheering result. Last week's Omega Marine Chronometer went for CHF 2,000, the Marvin "Ocean Chief" sold for $1,000, and Rare Bird's Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier sold as well. Strays Photo courtesy GALERIE DES VENTES D'ORLEANS. Photo courtesy Craft + Tailored. Photo courtesy Bonhams. Here's a beautiful Zenith Respirator on its original Zenith-signed NSA bracelet for all you square-cased Ballers to start things off. The Dennison ALD Dual Time seemed to scratch an unsuspected itch for a lot of folks, and certainly there are excellent vintage examples of double-dialed watches, but if you happen to find yourself hooked on the idea that more=better regarding dials, boy oh boy is this 18k gold Chopard with its four separate dials for you (with, yes, four separate manual-wind movements, for the fidgeters among us). Girard Perregaux alarms look fantastic for eschewing the typical fourth hand for setting the alarm, and this example ...
Deployant
Moser releases a new chronograph in their Endeavour lineup using the Agengraphe movement with flyback chronograph, dual time and date.
Monochrome
Oris first launched the Artelier Calibre 113 in 2017 as a dressy watch, alongside the brand’s divers and pilot pieces and this movement’s variants, the Calibre 111, the GMT Calibre 114, the Calibre 112 with moon phase and, of course, the base version, the Calibre 110. Powered by the powerful Calibre 113, this Artelier model […]
Hodinkee
What We Know H. Moser & Cie. introduced its first flyback chronograph in 2020 with the Streamliner, a cushion-cased sports watch powered by the HMC 902—an automatic movement with central elapsed-seconds and elapsed-minutes hands and no sub-dials. That watch won the Chronograph Watch Prize at the GPHG and gave rise to a full collection. The next step was always the Endeavour case, and today it's here. The Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date takes the core architecture of the HMC 902, removes the automatic winding system, and uses the freed space to add a second time zone and date—all without any subdials The Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date comes in a 42mm stainless steel case with chronograph pushers at 10 and 2 o'clock and a screw-down crown at 4 o'clock. The dial is a turquoise fumé with a sunburst pattern. The central disc—which carries the second time zone—is in Blackor fumé, also with a sunburst pattern. Around the perimeter, a tachymeter sits on the flange alongside a white minute track that handles both elapsed seconds and minutes for the chronograph. Hands are leaf-shaped and filled with Super-LumiNova, as is the tip of the dual-time arrow. Uniting three complications—a flyback chronograph, a second time zone, and a date display—the watch does away with traditional subdials entirely. Instead, all indications are centralized: a red hand tracks chronograph seconds, a rhodium-plated hand shows elapsed minutes, and the second time zon...
Hodinkee
What We Know The revived and relaunched Dennison brand that returned in 2024 and snagged a GPHG award with its debut, the quartz-powered stone-dial ALD Collection, is back with a fresh take on the retro design-driven model. Marking its second collaboration with U.S.-based Patek Philippe vintage specialist Collectability and its founder, John Reardon, the Dennison + Collectability 2026 Edition Oblique Collection brings designer Emmanuel Gueit's interpretation of asymmetric watch design, recalling Patek timepieces, including its Ellipse models, as well as those produced with famed Swiss jeweler Gilbert Albert. Featuring the same case as the flagship ALD collection, in stainless steel or gold PVD coating, the latest Dennison + Collectability collab reimagines the standard ALD housing with an asymmetric bezel design that thoroughly transforms the look and feel of the timepiece. It's a surprisingly effective and imaginative way to reconsider the case at the core of the brand, and it has also been used in its two-handset, quartz-powered ALD Dual Time models. The collaboration is available in two different dial designs in either stainless steel or gold PVD. First up is the 'Oblique Enigma Dial' that features a metal cutout on the sunburst and a blue and green two-tone dial. The metal border accentuates the asymmetry of the design and contrasts with the same shape used on the bezel. The other dial is a sector-style or starburst pattern that the brand calls its 'Oblique Vecto...
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