Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Unveiled
A looks at the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT with detailed specs, photos, and pricing. Check out this new non-limited military-inspire watch.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A looks at the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT with detailed specs, photos, and pricing. Check out this new non-limited military-inspire watch.
Worn & Wound
Sooner or later, you just knew it was going to happen. For as long as there’s been a Pelagos, and as long as there’s been a Tudor GMT movement, and as long as there’s been a human impulse to speculate, there’s been a call for the Swiss brand to release a Pelagos with the ability to track multiple time zones. It just makes sense for the brand’s most tool-forward dive watch: GMTs are what the people want and it’s an undeniably useful feature. And so, like an infinite number of chimpanzees at an infinite number of typewriters are certain to eventually produce the works of Shakespeare, now Tudor has finally issued a diver with all the features their loyal fans have been asking for. Titanium case: check. GMT movement with chronometer certification: check. Rotating 24 hour bezel: check. Spring bars: hey, no one has it all. The all new Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” might feel like an inevitability on the one hand, but on the other it still has a fascinating mix of little quirks that are capable of surprising even the most loyal Tudor fans (and speculators). Like the very first Pelagos FXD, this one is presented under a partnership with the French military. Specifically, the Zulu Time has been developed with the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation) in mind, and according to the brand the watch has been designed for the “adverse real-world conditions” faced by their personnel. For the original FXD, that meant a bi-directional bezel set up in...
Hodinkee
An FXD for the skies.
Fratello
The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” has just become the latest addition to the brand’s collection. This titanium GMT watch uses the Pelagos FXD as a base, adding a 24-hour bezel, 24-hour hand, and a new METAS-certified movement. The result is the brand’s most accurate and adventure-ready watch to date. Speaking of dates, this […] Visit Introducing: The New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.
Monochrome
Tudor‘s connection with military forces is no secret anymore. The most famous of these partnerships is, without a doubt, the co-creation of specific dive watches for the French Marine Nationale, which resulted in some of the most appealing mil-spec models ever made by Tudor. Revived in 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD platform, […]
Time+Tide
The Tudor Pelagos FXD has its first-ever GMT and Master Chronometer certification.The post Tudor doubles down on its military credentials with the new Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Since its relaunch in 2020, the historic brand Nivada Grenchen has become one of the most active watch companies in the field of vintage revivals. Take a look at the entire portfolio of models offered by Nivada, and you’ll see that almost everything is based on a historic design. And the brand’s latest creation, a […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex Yacht-Master occupies a prominent but, for many, difficult-to-define area within the company’s overall portfolio. It’s regarded as a popular dress watch but is firmly positioned within the “Professional” collection. It looks a lot like a Submariner but isn’t really a dive watch, so it’s really not like a Submariner at all. It’s designed as a men’s watch but has become a canvas for some very feminine executions. And unlike other Rolex models that offer an original “I” and a second-generation “II” version, like the GMT-Master and Explorer, the Yacht-Master I and II are scarcely related in their design or functions at all. And yet, the Yacht-Master remains a top-tier timepiece both for Rolex and its legions of fans, and in its relatively short span on the market has welcomed a number of innovative materials and technologies into the Rolex fold. Read on to discover more about the Rolex Yacht-Master (in all its various versions) and what makes the model unique among its Oyster Perpetual brethren. 1967 - 1969 - The Prototype: Cosmograph Yacht-Master Rolex Cosmograph Yacht-Master, circa 1967 (photo: Rolex Magazine.com) While the Yacht-Master as we know it today traces its genesis only to 1992, the name appeared on a Rolex dial several decades before - on a watch that resembled more an evolution of the Daytona than of the Submariner - indicating that a sailing-themed watch was something that Rolex had been tinkering with as an organization for...
Time+Tide
A two-sided affair that keeps the signature Panerai style intact.The post Hip hip, Panerai! Celebrating the Radiomir with the Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ball Watch have stepped up their game with an innovative mechanical alarm watch with second time zone and a manufacture automatic movement plus their trademark super bright tritium tubes that light up the night. This is no chirping cricket!
SJX Watches
Panerai raised some eyebrows when it installed the newly developed perpetual calendar movement in the beefy Luminor. Now the brand brings the complication to its more elegant, but still oversized, wristwatch with the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453. Initial thoughts The Radiomir collection has always been Panerai’s most elegant offering, with some older models even being dress watches, albeit in Panerai style. The slimmer cushion-shaped case, wire lugs, and onion crown evoke the early wristwatches. Compared to the bulkier Luminor, the Radiomir is more adaptable in terms of design and complications, and consequently sometimes departs from the brand’s signature military look. A complication such as a perpetual calendar tends to fit better in more classical designs. For that reason, the perpetual calendar didn’t feel at home in the Luminor format. Bringing the perpetual calendar to the Radiomir seems like the sensible thing to do. The PAM01453 is handsome, especially with a case in Goldtech, Panerai’s proprietary rose gold alloy of platinum and copper that the brand claims to have superior durability. Though more elegant, the PAM01453 is still a rather large watch in typical Panerai style and measures 45mm across. The slim lugs and the leather strap should increase wearability to some extent, but the piece remains imposing. The P.4100 The PAM01453 celebrates in part the first Panerai watch prototype that was developed in 1935, a timepiece that was ...
Time+Tide
Closely following the design of a piece from the 1950s, Carl F. Bucherer releases a new, simplified variant of a world time watch.The post The Heritage Worldtimer by Carl F. Bucherer simplifies the world time complication, but not in the way you’d expect appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss, take you inside Windup Watch Fair New York City 2024. The biggest and best Windup yet, there were over 140 brands in attendance and tens of thousands of guests. Unfortunately, we couldn’t cover everything we saw there, so we focused on talking to six brands new to Windup. This episode was sponsored by Trafford Watch Co and their new Touring GMT. The latest from the Austin-based watchmakers is inspired by the relentless spirit of musicians and their fans. The Touring GMT has independent hour and GMT hands so you can seamlessly track the time in your next venue and back at home. Available in three colorways inspired by American music venues, check out the Touring GMT at Trafford Watch Co The post A Week in Watches Ep. 92: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Sometimes you just can't wait, and when it comes to getting a Pepsi bezel on your wrist, you don't have to.The post What to do if you want a Pepsi, but you don’t want to wait? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Call 'em microbrands or whatever you'd like, but from world timers to divers, they can make some impressive watches.
SJX Watches
In a departure from its usual modern designs, Carl F. Bucherer’s latest is the Heritage Worldtimer. Modelled on a typical 1950s world time wristwatch, the Heritage Worldtimer sports two crowns - on at three to set the time, another at nine to adjust the cities disc. The A2020 movement inside, however, is a modern creation. The automatic calibre features a peripheral rotor, an invention that dates to the 1950s but was only perfected in the 21st century. However, the calibre comes with a caveat: it’s not a true world time complication, and instead relies on just a rotating cities disc. Initial thoughts Tried-and-tested vintage-inspired reissues are often easy wins so they are common. While the Heritage Worldtimer might seem like one of those on its face, it stands out on several counts, including the simple fact that vintage-inspired world-time watches are uncommon. The design is also vintage inspired, rather than a remake of a specific watch, so it has a generic 1950s feel rather than looking like a scaled-up version of a vintage watch. And the novel, modern movement is a useful complement to the historical design. Though the watch is looks like a world time, it is not actually a world time complication. In other words, the hour hand does not move in tandem with the cities disc as on an actual world time. Rather it is a time-only watch with a rotating cities disc that does the job of indicating time zones, but it is not sophisticated in terms of mechanics. Starting a...
Quill & Pad
After a year of ownership, Saad Chaudhry has taken his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M to the end of the world, a dinner at a yacht club, and the open road as well as the open sea. The polished bezel has scars from doing battle against train commuters and car doors. The clasp has scraped against his keyboard more times than he cares to admit. However the watch still looks remarkably good. Here he explains why he bought it (and kept it) a year after the purchase and whether he would do it all over again.
Worn & Wound
You might be familiar with the work of Justin Walters through his work with Marin Instruments, which burst onto the microbrand watch scene back in 2021 with a unique, contemporary spin on the classic skin diver. Justin has just launched a new brand, the Alterum Watch Company, which he’s been teasing to those of us in the industry for nearly as long. It’s great to see the watch finally made public, and to see Justin fully emerge as one of the most interesting watch design minds working today. Between this initial release for Alterum and the ongoing work with Marin, we’re seeing a clear, modern aesthetic evolve right before our eyes. Best of all, these watches are accessible to just about anyone, proving once again that you don’t need to spend a small fortune for thoughtful and interesting design. The working principle behind the Alterum Worldtimer is one of simplicity, or “cutting away the chaos,” as Justin puts it. We’ve heard and seen this before, of course. Many brands attempt to reach a minimal design, but it’s hard to think of one that starts with a worldtimer, a genre of watch that’s busy almost by definition. But it’s a good test, when you think about it. If the goal of Alterum as a brand is simplicity and clarity, finding success with a worldtimer would seem to bode quite well for future projects. In many ways the Alterum Worldtimer feels familiar, at least in its functionality, but when you really start digging into the details you come to und...
Fratello
Starting a watch brand from scratch is quite a risky venture. First, you invest a lot of time in developing a design. Then, you need to find other parties who want to help you realize what you had in mind. Finally, you’re dependent on whether people actually want to buy what you created. Because of […] Visit Introducing: The Alterum Worldtimer With A Bold, Flat, And Functional Design Approach to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The first large scale watch fair I attended as Tempus in Singapore in 2004. A teenager then, I was fairly new to watches and found everything endlessly interesting. History never repeats but it rhymes, as the saying goes. Iamwatch just concluded in Singapore. In many ways it was similar to Tempus: also staged by local retailer The Hour Glass, a watch fair of sizeable scale, but unlike the 2004 event, Iamwatch was largely focused on independent watchmakers. Most crucially, it was also casual – the prescribed attire was Hawaiian shirt – which allowed for more personal interactions with industry personalities. As one of the largest retailers in the world, The Hour Glass has the pull to round up watch enthusiasts, and a great number turned up for Iamwatch, ranging from mega-collectors to royalty. Naturally, the watches spotted were diverse and often incredible. Many multi-million-dollar watches were circulating within the event, including famous examples that sold for record prices at auction, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature. And even the Patek Philippe Cubitus was spotted on several wrists, the day after its launch in Munich. But 20 years on after Tempus, the enjoyment, significance, and enduring memories of an event like Iamwatch – for me personally – is no longer the watches, but the people. It was the moments, often during downtime or after the doors closed, when I got to converse with watchmakers ...
Fratello
The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT was one of the most commercially interesting releases of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Unlike most of the exotic Haute Horlogerie releases at the fair, this was a watch we might actually go out and buy. At the same time, it was such a long-awaited and aesthetically predictable watch […] Visit Hands-On With The Handsome Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Today on this latest episode of Time to Pack, our Lead Photographer and resident EDC enthusiast, Garrett Jones, goes through his “On Location” photography essentials. “Much like the watch on my wrist, the gear I carry in my kit is crucial for a successful shoot. When on location things can happen fast and the tools that you have at your disposal are often the ones you bring with you,” says Garrett. Knowing that he’d be in many different environments, everything from glacier lakes to mountain tops, he needed to keep his gear safe, functional, and most importantly, accessible. This episode is made possible by our friends at Citizen, who invited Garrett on an epic trip to Banff, Canada, and outfitted him with their new Promaster Land U822, which celebrates the 35th Anniversary of Promaster. Coming in at 44mm in diameter and sporting a subtle black and gray camo motif, this watch features Citizen’s new Memory in Pixel (MIP) liquid crystal display, which improves legibility and makes it possible to display more information, along with a chronograph, dual time zone display, and even a compass inner bezel. Thankfully Garrett didn’t need to test this feature out, but we’re happy that Citizen plans ahead of those who might wonder off the proverbial “beaten path.” Get all the details on Garrett’s packing style and his professional tools, along with his very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We hope that this Time to Pack will be that kind of fix you did...
Monochrome
First introduced over a decade ago, the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture has since become a popular timepiece in Frederique Constant‘s catalogue. Over the years, the watch, capable of displaying time across the 24 standard time zones, has been offered in various dial colours, including blue, grey, rich green and brown. Yet, it has consistently stayed true […]
Monochrome
De Bethune’s DB25 family can be regarded as the more classical face of the brand, showcasing Denis Flageollet’s passion for traditional watchmaking with a delightful cosmic twist. De Bethune recently unveiled a new version of the DB25GMT Starry Varius in a luxurious rose gold case with its mysterious GMT display signalling time with a rotating […]
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