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GMT & World-Time Watches · Page 35

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey Worn & Wound
Sep 2, 2024

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey

One of the things I will absolutely never tire of when it comes to attending watch shows like Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days is the opportunity to handle watches that would be simply impossible to view at any other time. These events are important for networking purposes and to see and learn about new releases from mass market brands as early as possible so we can share them with our readers, but let’s be honest: even the “rare” watches from brands that are part of the big luxury groups are relatively easy to see if you’re in New York City and connected to the watch media or collector world. But there are some watches that when they’re brought out, you understand immediately that you’re probably getting your one, last look. That’s the impression I got at my Girard-Perregaux meeting when they showed me the La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey.  I saw lots of cool stuff over three very busy and sweaty days taking meetings in the Beau Rivage and other hotels that lack American style air conditioning during Geneva Watch Days, but if you asked me to narrow things down and pick just one watch that is simply the most beautiful object I saw during my time there, the Esmerelda gets my vote. Beauty, as we know, is in the eye of the beholder, so I won’t speak in absolute terms here. It would be perfectly reasonable to prefer the Garrick S3 or the Armin Strom Dual Time Resonance, or virtually any number of other great watches. But the Esmerelda ...

Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches Fratello
Aug 29, 2024

Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches

This past June, Breitling invited me to its Chronometrie facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The tour offered an opportunity to see the various Breitling manufacture calibers in different production states. The meticulous yet efficient nature of the assembly leads to a robust and reliable B01 chronograph movement along with modules for calendar and GMT functions. […] Visit Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches to read the full article.

Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days Fratello
Aug 29, 2024

Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days

Making its Geneva Watch Days debut, Norwegian independent brand Micromilspec has announced a new watch. Launched as a civilian model, the Milgraph is a serious military-inspired chronograph that packs a lot of functionality onto the wrist. It provides a column-wheel-operated chronograph movement with a GMT function in a blasted titanium case. At first glance, there’s […] Visit Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.

Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance - First Edition Fratello
Aug 29, 2024

Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance - First Edition

We’re in the thick of Geneva Watch Days 2024. For some brands, this means debuting novelties. Today, Armin Strom brings us the Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition, an all-new take on the brand’s well-known complication. Folks, this one’s a beauty. Armin Strom is no stranger to creating highly complicated Haute Horlogerie timepieces. The […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition to read the full article.

Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl SJX Watches
Aug 27, 2024

Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl

Having already debuted a thoughtful reissue of a pocket watch for its centenary, Citizen is continuing with the commemorative editions with something more affordable: the Series 8 880 100th Anniversary. Featuring a second time zone function and integrated bracelet, the watch has a tone-tone finish of brushed steel and blue-coated steel, matched with a blue mother-of-pearl dial. Initial thoughts The Series 8 GMT is most notable for being a “true” GMT – with an independently adjustable hour hand – at an affordable price point. It retails for just under US$2,000, and most GMT watches in this price segment have an add-on GMT function of an adjustable 24-hour hand instead. While the standard versions of the Series 8 GMT are in familiar GMT colours, including a blue and red “Pepsi” version, this anniversary edition is unusual with the blue case treatment and sky-blue mother-of-pearl dial. For someone who wants an affordable, functional dual time zone that looks different, this is a competitive proposition. A true-blue GMT The Series 8 GMT has a two-part case construction that allows for the unusual two-tone finish of grey and blue. A central section that’s coated blue slots into the case middle, giving it the twin blue flanks on either side of the bezel. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm high, the case is entirely steel, with the blue components coated to achieve the blue finish. Like the other Series 8 models, this has alternating brushed and polished fin...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” Fratello
Aug 25, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy”

Welcome to this Sunday Morning Showdown “Summer Edition.” Last week, we put two high-end golden travel timers up against each other. This week, two stainless steel divers from the more affordable side of the watch spectrum will battle it out. Both the Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” and the Certina DS Super PH1000M STC (short for […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” to read the full article.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Announced As A Non-Limited Edition Two Broke Watch Snobs
Aug 22, 2024

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Announced As A Non-Limited Edition

Earlier this month, Longines debuted a new non-limited version of their popular Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium. Back when the brand partnered with Hodinkee for an exclusive limited edition, folks were a bit critical of the fact that the watch seemed strikingly similar to the Tudor Black Bay Pro, a point of criticism that didn't really concern me. It was a handsome watch, in my opinion but I wasn't a fan of the FOMO associated with the limited edition. Thankfully, if you were a fan of the idea behind the watch, you now have an option to pick up a model that arguably looks a little more refined - with features like a grade 5 titanium case and bracelet and a "true" GMT movement.

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G SJX Watches
Aug 20, 2024

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue Two Broke Watch Snobs
Aug 19, 2024

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue

The Nomos Worldtimer is an interesting watch in the German Watchmaker’s catalog. It’s Nomos’ most complicated watch and their second most expensive, underneath the precious metal Lambda collection. The Zurich is called a worldtimer in name, but in reality it serves more as a GMT watch than a true worldtimer. Worldtimer’s tell time across time zones at a glance whereas the Zurich has the ability to advance the local time in 1hr increments while the sub-dial maintains 24-hr time in a set time zone. Nomos has made this watch for a long time. I found articles and blog posts referencing it going back to 2011. This is remarkable, on one hand, because it mean that Nomos’ has resisted the urge to build increasingly complicated watches and focused on truly honing their craft on the existing catalog.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green Fratello
Aug 18, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! So make yourself a nice cup of coffee and let our writers make their cases before you get to decide which of the two watches is your favorite pick. This week, it’s the battle of the luxury travel watches. Jorg will make a case […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green to read the full article.

You’re Invited to The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-Up and After-Party hosted by The James Brand! Worn & Wound
Aug 17, 2024

You’re Invited to The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-Up and After-Party hosted by The James Brand!

Hey Southern California, here we come. Any of you long time Worn & Wound readers will know that The James Brand is a company that’s been near and dear to our hearts for quite some time. They’re known for crafting some of the best everyday tools for modern explorers including utility knives and tools made with premium materials. We’re excited to share that The James Brand has opened a new location in Oceanside, CA! This space features a public retail area that showcases their signature modern, minimal everyday carry products. Join us in celebrating this occasion with an all-day West Coast Summer Pop-up and experience our unique offerings firsthand. The Worn & Wound West Coast Summer Pop-up hosted by The James Brand Saturday, August 17, 2024 12PM – 6PM Pacific The James Brand HQ 425 S Coast Hwy Oceanside, CA 92054 Free and open to the public. In addition to The James Brand and the Windup Watch Shop, several of our favorite watch brands will be there too, including Artefkt, Belmont Watch Co., Brew Watch Co., Citizen, Lōcī, and Zodiac, showcasing their latest and greatest releases available for viewing and purchase. This includes the very last 10 units of TJB’s latest collaboration with Timex: the Limited Edition Automatic GMT in Titanium. On behalf of The James Brand and our other brand partners joining us for this pop-up, we can’t wait to see you all, grab a drink, check out some cool gear, and talk watches. Since this event is free and open to the public, no R...

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light - What Makes This Watch So Special? Fratello
Aug 16, 2024

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light - What Makes This Watch So Special?

Exactly five years ago, just in time for the European Masters golf competition in Crans Montana in 2019, Omega introduced an extraordinary lightweight watch: the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light. The watch was suddenly back in the spotlight again during the Olympic Games Paris 2024, and for those who weren’t around in 2019 and missed […] Visit The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light - What Makes This Watch So Special? to read the full article.

Longines Debuts the First Non-Limited Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium Worn & Wound
Aug 15, 2024

Longines Debuts the First Non-Limited Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium

Longines has been experiencing significant success in the enthusiast space since their pilot-style Spirit line of watches launched. Over the last few years, they have introduced 39mm variants and a GMT version called the Spirit Zulu Time. Zulu time is a military term that refers to Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). These timepieces, also known as GMT watches, can show a second time zone using a third hand and a 24-hour scale on the dial. In December 2023, Longines partnered with Hodinkee to produce a special version of the Zulu Time in grade 5 titanium, featuring a 39mm case and limited to only 500 pieces worldwide. This special edition bore a striking resemblance to another brand’s popular GMT watch but was significantly thinner and much less slab-sided, which appealed to many collectors. As successful as that model was, Longines did step away from the original charm of the Spirit collection, leaving enthusiasts wanting a grade 5 Titanium GMT watch that was not a limited edition. They have heard the call and have just announced a new 39mm Spirit Zulu Time in this material, which fits right in with all the others in the lineup. Why are we explicitly mentioning the titanium grade used in these watches? In wristwatches, there are generally two types of titanium used. Grade 2 and grade 5, and while they both have the key qualities that make the material special (they are both very light), there is a tangible difference. Grade 2 titanium is commercially pure titanium, which ...

Comments 2

  1. Anonymous
    The 1955 Pan Am GMT-Master origin story never gets old. Curious whether the article covers why that specific route demanded a second timezone on the dial, or just the historical fact of the commission.
    1. Ben W. replying to Anonymous
      Fair question. Most pieces lean hard on the romance of that Pan Am brief without digging into the actual operational need, which honestly makes the whole thing feel a bit like retroactive justification. The transatlantic routes required crew coordination across time zones, sure, but whether Rolex's solution was genuinely demanded or just a brilliant answer to a problem that could've been solved a dozen other ways? That's the detail everyone skips. Still a great watch, though.

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