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GMT & World-Time Watches · Page 35

2,060 articles · Page 35 of 86
[VIDEO] Review: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Worn & Wound
May 22, 2024

[VIDEO] Review: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. If you’re a cynic, this might be what you’d identify as the brand’s defining characteristic. They’ve developed a reputation for endless variants, swapping dial colors, textures, case shapes, and movements in every conceivable combination. There’s a joke about weather in New England, that if you don’t like it, all you have to do is wait, and you could make a similar one about Grand Seiko: if you’re after a particular dial/color/case combo that doesn’t exist yet, there’s a decent chance it’ll materialize eventually.  But for all the SKUs in the Grand Seiko catalog, and the genuine variety you’ll find there, something was missing: a mechanical chronograph. There’s long been a line of Spring Drive chronographs (and Spring Drive chronographs with a GMT complication) but, kind of surprisingly, there’s never been a purely mechanical chrono under the Grand Seiko banner.  $13700 [VIDEO] Review: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Case High-intensity titanium Movement 9SC5 Dial Blue Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap High-intensity titanium bracelet Water Resistance 10 bar Dimensions 43.2 x 51.5mm Thickness 15.3mm Lug Width 23mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $13700 That changed a year ago with the launch of the Tentagraph, the centerpiece of Grand Seiko’s Watches & Wonders 2023, and easily their most ambitious release of the year. If you take the Kodo out of the equation, it’s almost certainly t...
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Timex and The James Brand Launch their Latest Collaboration: a Traveler’s GMT in Titanium Worn & Wound
May 21, 2024

Timex and The James Brand Launch their Latest Collaboration: a Traveler’s GMT in Titanium

Timex has been on a roll as of late, with multiple successful collaborations with Keith Haring, Jackie Aiche, Seconde/Seconde, and the Peanuts gang to name a few. We recently featured the World-Famous Tennis Player Time x Peanuts on Worn & Wound. Their latest collaboration appears to be an effort to step it up a notch and they have clearly succeeded in doing so.  Introducing the fully titanium Timex x James Brand GMT. And it is not just any GMT, it is a proper traveler’s type, with an independently adjustable local hour hand. Envisioned by renowned Italian watchmaker and Timex Chief Creative Director Giorgio Galli and designed by the team at The James Brand, this all-new co-branded GMT watch has the analog soul of the classic field watch. Why James Brand? They believe that the things you carry say something about you. They design tools that are practical, not tactical, with a modern and minimalist design aesthetic that never feels out of place but is still clearly “James Brand.” That principle has been carried over in the brand’s previous watch releases and continues with this new GMT. This barrel-shaped watch measures 41mm in diameter and has a lug width of 20mm, which is a great size for strap swapping. Likewise, the accompanying titanium bracelet and rubber strap have quick-release spring bars for easy changes. Powering this timepiece is the Miyota 9075 automatic 24 jewel movement, which has a power-reserve of 42-hours, and it can be admired through the screw-d...
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Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 Fratello
May 21, 2024

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482

Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.
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Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II SJX Watches
May 17, 2024

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II

The spring auction season in Geneva started dramatically enough with a cyberattack at Christie’s that took down its website and app. Only Watch went ahead as scheduled, however, and raised over CHF28.3 million, with most of that coming from the Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301A that sold for CHF15.7 million. What transpired at Only Watch also played out in the subsequent auctions over the weekend. The live sales at the four auction houses, Antiquorum, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s, sold almost CHF85 million of watches, including fees (excluding Only Watch). This compared to over well CHF110 million for Geneva’s fall season last year. Although the sale season six months ago was buoyed by an extra live auction at Christie’s (that was subject of much chatter), the diminished total for this season reflects the state of the market. The waning sentiment was palpable in all the salerooms. That said, the auctions did throw up a handful of grand surprises, including CHF3.13 million for the Patek Philippe ref. 605 HU world time pocket watch with cloisonné enamel dial at Antiquorum, and CHF1.16 million for the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I at Phillips. Christie’s sold the most expensive wristwatch this season with CHF2.47 million for a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” (above), though Antiquorum claimed the title for most valuable timepiece with its ref. 605 HU pocket watch. Image – Christie’s The good and great indies One of the ...
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Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref. 126710GRNR SJX Watches
May 17, 2024

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref. 126710GRNR

Just released at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master II in steel with a grey and black bezel (ref. 126710GRNR) is the newest addition to the famous line of dual time zone watches. More restrained in terms of colour, the new GMT-Master sports a 24-hour bezel with a grey-and-black Cerachrom insert. It’s still immediately recognisable, but a bit more discreet than its siblings in the collection, especially the famous “Pepsi” that is perhaps too recognisable.  Like several other Rolex sports models, the 126710GRNR sports green accents on the dial and GMT hand. And the 126710GRNR is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Initial thoughts The GMT-Master II is a almost perfect, with little that needs revision. While some expected a “Coke” GMT this year, the 126710GRNR is a solid proposition for anyone who wants a GMT-Master dressed more subtly. The bi-colour bezel is functional without being too loud unlike the better-known GMT-Master “Pepsi”. Flashy or recognisable watches sometimes attract unwanted attention, so dialling back the bezel colours is smart. In fact, the 126710GRNR may as well be more appealing than the discontinued 116710LN with its all-black bezel. Although I prefer the all-black bezel of the 116710LN, the grey and black bezel of the 126710GRNR is more functional as it separates day and night. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO The green accents are a nice touch and also logical since green is the Rolex corporate c...
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Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement Fratello
May 15, 2024

Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

It’s been a little over a year since Yema introduced the current version of the Navygraf. The brand’s Navygraf II from the late ’70s inspired the design of the watch. I had a chance to go hands-on with the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT last year, and I liked it. The updated style and the great […] Visit Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement to read the full article.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer SJX Watches
May 14, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...
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Farer Introduces the Banzare, a Limited Edition GMT with a Textured Dial Worn & Wound
May 13, 2024

Farer Introduces the Banzare, a Limited Edition GMT with a Textured Dial

We’ve been covering Farer for a long time on Worn & Wound. To say they are a core brand in our little enthusiast corner of the watch world would be an understatement, and it’s been exciting to see them grow, experiment, and further develop their own unique design language. For as long as I’ve been covering the brand, it’s been the colors that have stood out. They have just always had a knack for picking interesting and unusual color combinations. And their typical release strategy underscores that point – they’ll frequently release a handful of watches in the same style at one time, each adopting different color palettes, and thus emphasizing the impact those decisions have on the finished product. Their latest release, the Banzare GMT, is not part of a multi-watch drop, but it does feature a striking new dial texture for the brand in a color that some die hard Farer fans are sure to appreciate.  The GMT has become a signature complication for Farer, probably because it gives the brand a chance to explore colors and contrasts in natural ways. Think of the different elements of the dial that need to be navigated here: the dial itself, the main hour markers, the time telling hands, the GMT hand, the GMT hour scale, the date, the minute track, and we haven’t even gotten to the various wordmarks yet. There’s a real challenge in making sure all of those elements play well together, and it’s something Farer has always excelled at.  The Banzare gets a plum col...
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Nodus Contrail GMT Laguna Hands-On Two Broke Watch Snobs
May 11, 2024

Nodus Contrail GMT Laguna Hands-On

Just when I thought things couldn't get any better for Nodus after the TrailTrekker I reviewed this year, they go and do this. Recently, Nodus announced the latest iteration of the Contrail-one of their long-standing aviation/travel-focused pieces and a watch that I reviewed on this site a while ago. As an owner of the original Contrail, I was eager to see what they'd come up with for the latest refresh. Nodus went all out, with a new triple time-zone variant featuring the Miyota 9075 "true" GMT movement and a bunch of colors that are sure to drive enthusiasts nuts this year. It's the new Nodus Contrail GMT and we were able to go hands-on with the textured "Laguna" dial variant.
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Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer Fratello
May 10, 2024

Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer

It’s not often that we get to review a watch from a brand that is completely new to us. This week, though, I had the honor to get up close and personal with a new watch from a young brand called Lesablier. It was the LS-04 Travelgraph, and, in short, I’d describe it as a […] Visit Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer to read the full article.
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Mido Introduces The Limited Carbon Edition Of Its Versatile Ocean Star 200C Fratello
May 7, 2024

Mido Introduces The Limited Carbon Edition Of Its Versatile Ocean Star 200C

When I hear the name Mido, the first Ocean Star watches that come to mind are the vintage-inspired models. I like the Ocean Star Tribute, the Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer, and the Ocean Star GMT. They all have an undeniable charm that is hard to ignore. But the brand also makes a series of modern […] Visit Mido Introduces The Limited Carbon Edition Of Its Versatile Ocean Star 200C to read the full article.
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Hands-On: the Zelos Spearfish Dual Time Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Zelos Spearfish Dual Time

If a tide pool at a waterpark represented the world of micro/independent watches, some brands would be the kids who sit at the edge, waiting for a wave to bowl them over, others would be the dad that overcompensates by proving he can swim all the way out to the source only before losing his trunks, and then there’s Zelos…the person who showed up in their custom Speedo and polarized purple goggles doing laps around the perimeter. If you want a quality diver, finished brilliantly, made with interesting materials, eye-popping dials, all for around $500, Zelos has you covered. However, there is another Zelos. One that lights up a cigar, slips out of their lounge sandals, and makes their way into a meticulously curated tranquility pool…but still with the purple polarized goggles. This Zelos comes around a couple times a year, playing with high-end Swiss movements and interesting complications.  The first “tranquility pool” Zelos of the year recently hit the market. They took the case from their popular Spearfish line and released the Spearfish Dual Time. Three of the five watches in the line are made of titanium and come on titanium bracelets; the remaining two have cases made from forged carbon and come on a canvas leather strap. I had the pleasure of trying out the Moonscape forged carbon model for a little over a week, and while I do have some complicated thoughts on the model itself, what is indisputable is that you’re getting lavish materials and an elaborate ...
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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
May 4, 2024

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Geneva

With the current popularity of independent watchmaking, the proportion of auction catalogues dedicated to the genre has grown. At the same time, the obvious slowdown in the market means prices have moderated. The result is a more diverse offering of independent watchmaking, and at lower prices than 18 months ago. The upcoming Phillips’ Geneva auction illustrates this. We take a look at some of the notable examples of independent watchmaking, including a Middle East edition from F.P. Journe, a glow-in-the-dark Voutilainen World Timer, and a trio of time-only watches that are all interesting yet entirely different from Philippe Dufour, Paul Gerber, and Charles Frodsham. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX takes place over two days on May 11 and 12 the Hotel President in downtown Geneva (a change from the traditional venue of La Reserve). The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. 62 – F.P. Journe lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante Eastern-Arabic numerals Notably good value in titanium, the lineSport Chronograph Rattrapante is less affordable in platinum but certainly more special, and much more substantial. While the titanium and gold versions are relatively conventional in terms of aesthetics, the platinum version is unusual with its purple dial that works surprisingly well. Like most F.P. Journe movements, the calibre inside is slim, a feat considering the additional height required for the rattrapante mechanism. The split-seconds is done in the traditional manner with...
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Nodus Introduces The Contrail GMT - The Third Generation Of The Brand’s Popular Travel Watch Fratello
May 1, 2024

Nodus Introduces The Contrail GMT - The Third Generation Of The Brand’s Popular Travel Watch

Nodus is a relatively new brand that has quickly made a name for itself. With a passionate focus on creating increasingly better products, the Los Angeles-based brand has gained a dedicated following. We covered multiple prior Nodus releases that show great design versatility. It makes it interesting to follow the brand’s journey. With the new […] Visit Nodus Introduces The Contrail GMT - The Third Generation Of The Brand’s Popular Travel Watch to read the full article.
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Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map” SJX Watches
Apr 30, 2024

Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map”

One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...
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Hands-on – The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG Ups Its Elegance with a (sort of) Two-Tone Case Monochrome
Apr 29, 2024

Hands-on – The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG Ups Its Elegance with a (sort of) Two-Tone Case

While pilot-style watches have now found a comfortable niche within the modern Patek Philippe catalogue, the introduction of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 in 2015 sparked more than just curiosity: it stirred a veritable commotion. Many were taken aback, feeling it was a departure from the typical Patek Philippe aesthetic. The design, markedly different […]
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Hands On: Patek Philippe World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001 SJX Watches
Apr 29, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe introduced the World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001, the brand’s first regular-production world time with a date. Although the model officially debuted last June with a 300-piece, purple-dial limited edition for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Japan, the ref. 5330G-001 brings this complication into the mainstream with global distribution and a more versatile colour palette. Initial thoughts The ref. 5330G is quintessential Patek Philippe is several ways. It embodies a complication synonymous with the brand that is presented in a slim case. The overall aesthetic is modern but clearly vintage inspired. And the movement incorporates a complication that is cleverly executed and necessarily thin to fit the case. So conceptually, it is appealing. The ref. 5330G is also appealing in terms of its tangible qualities. It has good proportions and a refined, polished appearance that is typical of modern Patek Philippe watches. What do I not like? The carbon pattern dial is intrinsically attractive – it is done well and modern in feel – but feels a bit overused. Earlier world time models, on the other hand, had dial patterns that were unique to the reference. And the other is the Patek Philippe pricing. At over US$76,000, the ref. 5330G is steeply priced for a relatively straightforward pair of complications, even considering the ingenious construction of the date. But it is a Patek Philippe, and the unrivalled brand name alone accounts ...
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Hands-on – The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time Date, A New Generation of the Brand’s Iconic Traveller’s Watch Monochrome
Apr 26, 2024

Hands-on – The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time Date, A New Generation of the Brand’s Iconic Traveller’s Watch

Patek Philippe’s World Time models have remained a timeless presence for over three-quarters of a century. Intriguingly, the concept and presentation have undergone little change since introducing the “cleverly designed watch for men with international interests,” as touted in an early advertisement for World Time 1415. Since the inception of the World Time complication, Patek […]
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