Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Citizen Series 8 GMT
A premium take on a travel-ready Citizen with an integrated bracelet.
GMT & World-Time Watches · Page 41
Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko GMT Watch Buyer's Guide
More than just about any other watchmaker, Japan's Seiko has become known for offering not only multiple styles and complications in its product families, but also several different types of movements - from affordable quartz, to proprietary hybrid Spring Drive, to high-tech solar and radio-controlled, to classically traditional mechanical. However, one Holy Grail combo that has eluded Seiko and its fans until very recently is the rare GMT (aka dual-time) watch powered by a mechanical movement and priced at what most would consider entry-level for a budding collector. Fortunately, the past few years of R&D have yielded several all-new GMT-equipped, self-winding mechanical movements for the Japanese megabrand, which have found their way into several models in its modern collections. Here’s a guide to familiarize yourself with all the Seiko mechanical GMTs on the market now - and yes, all of them offer the enticing value proposition that has made Seiko a darling of enthusiasts at every level of economic means. SEIKO 5 SPORTS The Seiko 5 Sports series traces its roots all the way back to 1963 and the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define Seiko’s entry-level mechanical collection today. These include automatic movements, date or day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the w...
Hodinkee
Shop Spotlight: The First (Non-Limited Edition) Super Sea Wolf With An In-House GMT Movement Has Arrived
Available in silver or with touches of bright pink, Zodiac's recent release is just in time for warmer weather.
Fratello
Slipping On The Double-Denim Patek Philippe Duo World Time Date 5330G And Nautilus Self-Winding Chronograph 5980/60G
You’ve seen the press pics, and you’ve read the comments. Now it’s time to slip on and try out the double-denim Patek Philippe duo - the World Time Date 5330G and Nautilus Self-Winding Chronograph 5980/60G. I had to find out how these somewhat controversially styled watches felt and wore in reality. While I was at […] Visit Slipping On The Double-Denim Patek Philippe Duo World Time Date 5330G And Nautilus Self-Winding Chronograph 5980/60G to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex GMT-Master II: The Ultimate Guide
The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most coveted luxury travel watches on the planet, and its predecessor, the original, non-numerical GMT-Master, basically established the template that other dual-time zone timepieces have been following for more than half a century. Here is a detailed look at the history and evolution of the GMT-Master II, from its aviation-inspired beginnings in 1954 to the iconic status it enjoys in the modern era, with all the major models spotlighted in between. 1954: “PEPSI” FOR PILOTS Rolex, the luxury watch firm founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, achieved one of its many milestones in 1953 with the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner, the first serially produced wristwatch with a case water-resistant to 100 meters and hence one of the first and most influential watches purpose-built for diving. If the watch community was wondering what Rolex could possibly do for an encore, they didn’t have long to discover the answer. The following year, 1954, saw the introduction of another trend-setting, genre-defining timepiece, the original Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 6542, which actually hit the market in 1955), the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal ...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16700, A Reverse Panda Tudor Black Bay Chrono, And A Grand Seiko Elegance
Plus a Vacheron Cornes de Vache, and a Lange Saxonia Automatik.
Monochrome
Recap - The Best of High-Complication at Watches and Wonders 2024 and The Geneva Week
Today, we are ending our series of recap articles focused on the best new watches presented during Watches and Wonders 2024 and Geneva Watch Week (we’ve looked at dive watches, chronographs, dress watches or GMT models)… And what’s better to take a look back at some of the show’s most impressive, technically advanced and innovative […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Imperial Oceanguard GMT Review
Now that we're through the craze of Watches & Wonders 2024, I've gotta say that getting my thoughts down on the new Imperial Oceanguard GMT has been a real treat. Last year, I had a chance to review the brand's first release-the Royalguard 200-and I've been eager to see what the brand would follow things up with. After a bit of teasing on social media, the Imperial Oceanguard GMT was revealed this year in a run of four different colorways, each limited to 25 pieces. The one you see here is the model in "Jet Wash White" and it's one of the few remaining versions that haven't sold out. As a GMT lover, this one was a ton of fun to handle and I think it's a great buy at under $600.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR
It’s Sunday morning! Yes, that means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown inspired by the new releases we saw at Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s time for a full-on Rolex showdown after last week’s Tudor vs. Rolex battle. Last year, The Crown introduced the 18K yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Sekkei”
Since its independence from mother brand Seiko in 2017, Grand Seiko has left its imprint outside Japan with its continuous stream of excellent watches. Impressively built, finished and powered, some of the most popular models are those with nature-themed dials. Unveiled by Grand Seiko at Watches & Wonders 2024, the new Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 […]
Monochrome
Recap - The Best Travel and GMT Watches of Watches & Wonders 2024 and The Geneva Week
Long praised for being some of the most practical and relevant timepieces around, Travel and GMT watches are classics that most brands need to have somewhere in their collections. Whether we’re talking about classic multi-time zone watches with a central 24-hour hand, dual-time models with additional indications on their dials or complex world-time timepieces, the […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT In White Sand And Khaki Green
I was genuinely excited when the second Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT was officially announced about a month ago. The first version of this watch blew me away last year. I had a chance to wear the C65 Dune GMT for a couple of weeks, and by the end of that time, I knew I […] Visit Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT In White Sand And Khaki Green to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial
Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog. Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup: New Zodiacs and Citizens, Rugged, Carabiners, and…Robots?
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we spotlight some exciting new watches from Zodiac and Citizen: the new GMT and second-generation of the lauded Tsuyosa. Moving on to gear and accessories, we have standout hits from Wesn and ADPT. Finally, our deal of the week is a special Benrus watch that you may not have seen before. Get the inside scoop below! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 GMT
Tudor unveils the latest addition to its “BB58” range of smaller dive watches series, the Black Bay 58 GMT. Retaining the slim proportions and classic styling of the original model, the new BB58 seamlessly integrates a practical second time zone. The vintage-inspired design gains a burgundy and black “Coke” bezel with gilt accents that’s reminiscent of the classic GMT wristwatches – or more specifically a classic GMT – but with a thoroughly modern, high-spec movement. Initial thoughts Tudor fans have long wanted a more compact GMT, which is arguably the most practical of affordable complications. Before this launch, the dual time zone offerings in the brand’s catalogue were the chunky 41 mm Black Bay GMT and the smaller Black Bay Pro that is 39 mm but quite thick at over 14 mm high. In that context, the new Black Bay 58 GMT is an ideal size: 39 mm but substantially thinner than the Pro. While the proportions are new, the affordability is familiar. Priced at US$4,400 on a strap, and US$200 extra on a bracelet, the Black Bay 58 is likely the best value proposition for a dual time zone watch in this price segment. The only downside of the new GMT is perhaps the colour: red and black might not be for everyone. I for one hold out hope for a one in “Pan Am” colours. Vintage-inspired and travel-ready The BB58 GMT sticks to Tudor’s established formula for its dive watches. That includes “snowflake” hands, with the signature lozenge hand used for both the ...
Monochrome
First Look - The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion SBGC275
In the previous year, Grand Seiko introduced the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC253, showcasing a bold case design and distinctive dial texture, thus enhancing the brand’s Sport collection with the permanent addition. This followed the anticipation stirred by limited edition models SBGC230 and SGBC231 in 2019, along with the red gold cased SGBC238, launched in […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”
Grand Seiko and the lion symbol go back a long way. United on the first Grand Seiko watch of 1960 featuring the emblem of a proud lion on its caseback, the feline has inspired the case architecture and dial of the “Tokyo Lion” series. Just two years after Grand Seiko was granted independence from Seiko […]
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001
Amongst Patek Philippe’s best known complications is the travel watch, most notably the traditional world time with its mechanism inspired by the Louis Cottier system. Continuing with that tradition, the Patek Philippe World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001 features a thoughtful date complication that has been smartly implemented to allow it to go backwards and forwards in sync with the world time display. This is the regular production version of a model first introduced last year at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo as a limited edition. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe World Time watches have mostly abided by the same 24 city indication style since the 2000’s. The Cottier system is a very convenient way of showing the time simultaneously across 24 timezones by using a 24 hour disk in conjunction with a cities’ disk. The new World Time adds a novel date indication linked to the local time. Though simple on its face, the date display is a sophisticated, two-finger mechanism that allows the date to automatically go backwards or forwards as the time display changes. Travelling from Tokyo to Hawaii, for instance, sends the date backwards. The timepiece gains in utility, as it shows more information to the prospective globetrotter, all while keeping the additional indication discreet. A practical addition The dial may seem cluttered at first, but when taken separately the indications are reasonably legible. The innermost dial with traditional dauphine-shaped hands show...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time (Live Pics)
A new travel-friendly Santos joins the family.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Grey And Black Rolex GMT-Master II In Stainless Steel
Sure, it's "just another GMT," but more options aren't a bad thing.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time That's A Low-Key World First, Too
A modern take on an old-school complication.
Worn & Wound
Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”
Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....
Hodinkee
Introducing: Patek Philippe Brings The First (Non-Limited) World Time With A Local Date To Its Catalog
After a limited introduction in Tokyo, the 5330G.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K
In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...
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