Revolution
Tudor’s Steel and Gold Expansion - Black Bay GMT and Chrono
For 2022, Tudor is taking one of its smash hits from the line and giving it a stealthy bling-over, by offering the Black Bay GMT in steel and gold.
GMT & World-Time Watches · Page 59
Revolution
Revolution
Patek Philippe Combines the Annual Calendar & Travel Time Complications in the New Ref. 5326G-001
Patek Philippe launches 12 novelties at their first Watches & Wonders, with the 5326G-001 – Annual Calendar Travel Time that combines the two complications in a watch for the first time.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G Combines Two Patek Signature Complications
Patek's latest take on the travel time complication is crisp, clear and clean.
Revolution
Introducing the Montblanc 1858 GMT Automatic Date and the Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher
Montblanc’s 1858 GMT Automatic Date and Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher presents the full spectrum from contemporary to a twist to the classic.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro
Tudor finally introduces a more compact GMT watch with the Black Bay Pro, which is 39 mm and equipped with a fixed bezel. With slightly retro styling, the Black Bay Pro nonetheless has all the features that characterise Tudor, including a proprietary movement with a silicon hairspring as well as the newly-developed T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Pro is what I have been hoping for, a more compact Tudor GMT. It has a 39 mm case just like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the perfect size in my estimation. And it has a true GMT function thanks to the MT5652 inside. It also sports a useful upgrade: the T-Fit clasp that allows for micro-adjustment on the fly, giving this a feature usually found on pricier watches. The aesthetic certainly beings to mind the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which is a good thing (and it was probably designed with a knowing wink). Arguably the only downside is the case thickness. At 14.6 mm high the watch is thick, though not excessively so. It does not feel ungainly on the wrist, although the flat, vertical case sides do accentuate the height. Another only potential downside is the fixed bezel, which means the watch cannot track the third time zone that’s possible on the standard GMT. It’s not a dealbreaker for me since the third time zone functionality is something I never use on a GMT watch. Still, the Black Bay Pro is an impressive value proposition all things considered, and certainly one of the best buys of the fair. F...
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269
Continuing its evolution from military watchmaker to one with a broader and civilian repertoire, Panerai introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269. A variant of the minimalist Luminor perpetual calendar first unveiled last year, the PAM1269 has a dial made of tinted sapphire that reveals the concentric calendar discs underneath. And like many recent Panerai limited editions, the PAM 1269 is accompanied by an “experience”, in this case a trip to Florence (plus an NFT). The reverse of the watch includes the year and month displays, along with the power reserve indicator Initial thoughts If I were to just skim through the new watch releases of the year, I would have missed this Panerai because at a distance, it looks like any other Panerai. But it is more than that. Apart from being just a smartly conceived perpetual calendar, the watch includes an all-expenses-paid trip to Florence curated by Panerai. Given Panerai’s historical connections to Florence and its status as a leading luxury watchmaker, I imagine the trip would be filled with experiences impossible to obtain otherwise. The dial is open-worked yet highly legible Putting the trip aside, the watch itself is a marvel of clarity – a lot of information is displayed on the front and back in a manner as minimal as possible. The comprehensive display includes a second time zone and four-digit year indicator. Notably, the indicators on the front are also linear – everything is contained on a h...
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko Evolution Spring Drive collection with two GMTs, a two Chronographs and a Diver
The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection expands with 5 new sports watches - two Spring Drive GMT references, two Spring Drive Chronographs and a Diver.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1986 Rolex Date For Ford Motor Company, A 1981 Rolex GMT-Master 'Root Beer,' And A 1990s Audemars Piguet Limited Edition
Built Rolex tough – and more!
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre
The Longines Spirit collection was one of the most instantly successful new watch releases from a big brand in years, with not a single detail out of place. It’s almost as if Longines read the collective consciousness of the world’s watch fanatics and crafted the perfect pilot-style watch, with just the right amount of vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bulgari Marks 10 Years of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo with “Pencil Sketch” Dials
Perhaps Bulgari’s signature men’s wristwatch, the Octo Finissimo is an ultra-thin wristwatch that has spawned a range of watches and variety of complications, including a perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Now the Italian jeweller marks a decade of its bestseller with a pair of limited editions that pay tribute to the original design – literally. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary and Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary both feature “pencil sketch” dials that essentially reproduce the initial drawings of both models penned by Fabrizio Buonamass Stigliani, the design chief at Bulgari’s watch division. Initial thoughts The twin anniversary editions are only modest tweaks on the standard design, but accompanied by equally modest price differences, which makes them appealing alternatives for someone who likes the monochromatic look of the standard models but wants a little extra. The “sketch” dials are clever and amusing, though not entirely new since similar drawing-inspired dials have been done in the past by Nomos and Fortis. Still, they have a whimsical appeal. Price-wise, the two anniversary editions aren’t much more than the standard models. The automatic is €800 extra, while the chronograph actually costs the same as the standard version. Being identical to the standard models in size and material, both anniversary editions will feel the same on the wrist, light and sleek. I fin...
Time+Tide
This Oscar nominee is the first celeb spotted wearing the new colourful Omega Aqua Terra 38mm
When a new collection or reference debuts, I always wonder when I will first see it in the wild. Sure we get hands-on at launch events and watch fairs. But that is a spot within the zoo of the industry. I am more curious to see how soon I catch one in the wild, whether … ContinuedThe post This Oscar nominee is the first celeb spotted wearing the new colourful Omega Aqua Terra 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours
Of Omega’s novelties for the year (which include a 6000 m dive watch and solid-gold Speedmaster Moonwatch) the Seamaster Aqua Terra is the most affordable while also offering the widest range in terms of style and size. The brand has just taken the covers off the latest Aqua Terra range made up of ten watches evenly divided into 34 mm and 38 mm cases, but all in vibrant, upbeat colours. The 34 mm model with a Lagoon Green dial Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic appeal, the latest Aqua Terras are a wonderful addition to the line up. They show that Omega has begun to loosen up in terms of dial colours and style, which will no doubt help widen its audience. Another point of appeal is the dial finish. While the colours are bright, they aren’t in-your-face thanks to a brushed finish. And the 34 mm model also sports more rounded forms for the hands and hour markers that give it a more elegant feel. Overall, it makes for a versatile watch that’s not too sporty. And it’s also good news Omega has done away with the linear motif inspired by the wood decks of a sailboat that was long synonymous with the Aqua Terra. The 34 mm quintet That said, the collection immediately call to mind the Oyster Perpetual from 2020 that was an instant hit thanks to its range of colourful, lacquered dials. That leaves the new Aqua Terra feeling like a trend follower rather than trendsetter. Only time will tell whether this approach is conducive to the positioning of the brand. (To be fair,...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Vivid and Easy-Wearing New 34 and 38mm Omega Aqua Terras
Color me interested.
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Greubel Forsey GMT
One of the most complicated watches Greubel Forsey makes, the GMT impresses technically and aesthetically. But what's it like to actually wear one?
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
A record-setting traveler's chronograph with genuine style.
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1978 Rolex GMT-Master, A 1970s Rolex Cellini In 18k White Gold, And A 1960s Universal Genève Tri-Compax
Seventeen new watches in the HODINKEE Shop and plenty of variety within.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ming 22.01 GMT, Just In Time For Getting Back Up In The Air
Travel's back, and the latest Ming GMT wants to be your favorite frequent flyer.
Time+Tide
The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent
I’m going to be honest with you. The appeal of independent watch brands has grown in my day-to-day involvement with this hobby. The chance of owning something unique, with a recognizable design language and quality construction gets harder and harder to say no to. Yet, with these brands currently at the forefront of watchmaking, the … ContinuedThe post The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Taste the new Omega Aqua Terra rainbow and consider these (very strong) selling points
At Time+Tide, we are every bit as much watch enthusiasts as we are journalists. We have our ears to the ground, checking our Instagram feeds, Facebook groups and other digital points of #watchfam discussion. So when Omega Days 2022 concluded and the new novelties unveiled, we saw the community response to the latest and greatest … ContinuedThe post Taste the new Omega Aqua Terra rainbow and consider these (very strong) selling points appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Omega Adds Colorful New Dials To The Under-40mm Aqua Terra Collection
The first Aqua Terra update in its anniversary year introduces 10 new flavors of the mid-size, all-occasion Aqua Terra.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon
The average person thinking of Louis Vuitton will have a lot of inspiration from which to draw their impressions. Between the $4000 handbags, $700 T-shirts, and even $1000 bucket hats, the image that Louis Vuitton paints is a surprisingly broad spectrum of wealth across high-fashion and streetwear. Leather goods, fragrances, clothing and eyewear are just … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976
Very much a genre that took off in the 1970s, the digital-display quartz watch was invented by American watch company Hamilton in 1970 – and positioned as a high-end watch at the time – and over the following decades various watchmakers from Europe and Asia have presented their own takes on the digital watch, though it is the latter that has come to dominate the market. One of the more memorable was the Girard-Perregaux ref. 9931 “Casquette” of 1976 that was especially sci-fi with its aerodynamic design. But after a brief production run it vanished from the brand’s catalogue until a surprising comeback last year with a unique, modernised version made for charity auction Only Watch 2021. And now Girard-Perregaux (GP) has finally taken the covers off the Casquette 2.0, which replicates the style of the original but with updated tech and materials, namely a ceramic and titanium case along with a new movement. Initial thoughts The Casquette 2.0 is a remake done well. It retains the appealing design of the vintage original, which was a good looking but dinky watch, and instead channels resources to improving the construction and functions. The new scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet demonstrates GP’s effort in a thoughtfully improved remake, especially since similarly priced watches tend to rely on black-coated steel. At the same time, the watch has improved in its function. It gains a chronograph and a second time zone, both of which are rudimentary but n...
Hodinkee
Introducing: A New Kind Of World Time, Courtesy The Moritz Grossmann Universalzeit
A watch 140 years in the making.
Deployant
Moritz Grossmann Universalzeit: a new worldtimer revealed and reviewed!
Hands-on comprehensive review of the new Moritz Grossmann Universalzeit. With insider analysis, competitive landscape and high resolution live photographs.